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What next for the 7D?

Britman said:
With the 5D3 now out in the open I'm starting to wonder if the 7D is next on the list of bodies to get an upgrade.
Trouble is the more I think about it the more I fail to see a direction it could go. There's a few feature they could add but they'd be only slight improvements on the current specs.

1, Better video control
2, Compatibility with the 600EX & ST-E3RT
3, The same AF system as the 1DX and 5D3, or a scaled down version.
4, Improve the metering system.
5, To go FF, perhaps use the 5D2 sensor!!

The thought did cross my mind that the 7D may be killed off and maybe replaced with a new, FF camera that only does stills. Can't really see that, video is here to stay.

What are your thoughts, what cam be done to improve the camera without it stepping into the 5D3 territory?

The whole entire point about the 7D is that its NOT FF. The point is that it has an APS-C sensor and gives you that extra reach with telephoto lenses. I would not buy a 7D II if it was either FF or APS-H...I need it specifically for the APS-C sensor and the pro-grade features.
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The mythical 3D question

APBPhoto said:
I was wondering if the mythical 3D high MP camera is suppose to sit in between the 5DMIII and the 1Dx won't the price also sit between them say "$4999", if that is the case will there be less complaining about the price of the 5DMIII?

No. The complaining about the current price is about the amount of tech you get for it, and mainly cause of the +500 over the competition.
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Purchase thoughts: Canon 5d3 or 24-70L II?

I would wait a week or so until us with pre-orders on the bleeding edge get ours and can give some tangible feel for the step up from the 5D2 then decide. But at face value with you glass i would more likely go with the camera over the lens based on the AF improvements etc.

will you be selling the 5D2? to fund the 5D3 or keeping it as a backup?
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Canon 16-35L II vs Tokina 16-35 vs Sigma 17-50 2.8 lenses

Gary W. said:
Hey all,

Thanks for the replies! I really am leaning away from the 17-55 because it is an EF-S lens. I don't care for/like the prospect of getting a lens I would not be able to use on a ff camera when I get one, be it later this year, or 4 or 5 years from now. A good lens now will still be a good lens in the future if it is taken care of.

Gary W.

4-5 years from now is a long time; later this year is not. It might be better if you decide when you'll upgrade first before buying another lens to cover range that your current kit spans. 5DII prices have begun to drop. Is that something that you'd consider? If you get the 16-35L and 5DII now, it'd cost about 3600 new, but the 5DII with the 24-105 would cost less than 3000. If you value the mid range over the wide range, then it might make sense to wait to get the FF camera with a kit lens rather than getting the 16-35L now, which you might not use much in FF.
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16-35 2.8ii vs 17-40 for filters and corner sharpness?

Thin mount CPL filters work fine on the 17-40 with FF, without increased vignetting. I use Lee filters, which are fine, if I only use the single holder, but if I ever need to twist filters in different planes, I can't because the second holder that slides onto the front is visible in frame, even at 24mm. I actually find 17mm to wide for the type of shooting I do on FF and like you I find it soft, so mine is also destined for eBay or somewhere else, as I think I've used it once in the last 12 months and that was for a specific effect, making use of the extreme distortion.
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Calculating Dynamic Range

neuroanatomist said:
That would make sense for distinguishing the patches visually (which, admittedly, I discussed in the example above). But, the bigger problem in that instance would be that unless you had a monitor capable of displaying the full bit depth of a RAW file, the visual comparison would be limited by the 8-bits of a typical display - you might as well assess the DR of a jpg file.

Yes, of course. I assumed you just scaled up the intensity of the image to put those regions within the screens range when looking at them. But you do something more interesting..:

neuroanatomist said:
So, what I actually do is measure the luminance of the patches on the step wedge in the RAW file, meaning the borders between patches aren't relevant, you just need patches large enough to overcome sampling error. As you get down to the darker patches, the signal merges with the noise, and that's the bottom end of the DR.

So the difference of what you do to what the "calculating" DR people do, is that you actually have a signal that contributes to the noise when finding the DR floor, and by using a wedge you find what that signal is.

To be clear: your criterion is that the signal S equals the noise N. But N is an increasing function of S (something like N = sqrt(R^2 + k*S), where R is the background noise (mostly read-out noise) and k is the gain in electrons/ADU). Therefore N(S=0) < N(S=N), and that is the reason the two methods differ. Does this sound reasonable?
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7d+17-55 and 5d+70-200: does-it make any sense ?

kimloris said:
unkbob said:
You say you have "several lenses" for your 7D. Are they all crop-only or will they work on the 5D3?

I have the 100L macro and the 70-200 4L IS (I know it is redundant with the 70-200 2.8L IS but I could not convince myself to sell it when I upgraded to the 70-200 2.8L: it is razor sharp and its light weight makes it a really nice lens for sunny day hikes)

I do really need a wider lens in my kit : maybe the 30 1.4 sigma + 50 1.4 : not too much money to put on the table once my 17-55 is sold.

Just bear in mind the Sigma 50 1.4 is FF, the Sigma 30 1.4 is crop only. Both great lenses, but I don't see the point of the 30 1.4 on your 7D when 50 1.4 will give you similar FOV and much better high ISO performance and DOF control on the 5D3.

I think you're bonkers to keep the 70-200 F4 IS at the expense of wider lenses, given your situation. If you want something long and light, you have the 100 L (at either 100 on FF or 160 equivalent on the 7d), and the 70-200 2.8 is there when you need it. I am biased as I love wide lenses, but something like the 35L on your 5D3 will blow your mind. Even the 24-70 is amazing on FF - you get similar shallow DOF with a 2.8 zoom lens on a FF as a 1.4 prime on a crop. And when you get up close to a scene, you have more control over composition and the pictures are more exciting, as a general rule. It depends on what you're shooting of course, and YMMV.

Just my 2c :)
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"Walkaround" prime for FF?

Caps18 said:
Michael_pfh said:
Caps18 said:
If I only had 1 prime lens, it would be the 24mm.

Why would you pick the 24mm?

It is wide enough to take pictures of landmarks and people. It is a compromise, I obviously picked the 16-35mm and still am ok with it over the 24 (TS or f/1.4), but I think the 24mm would still work the best for a one prime camera.

If I were going to a national park, I would go with the 17mm or 14mm...

For me the 24 is too wide to be my walk around (on APS-H), die 16-35 does a much better job so if not the 50 1.2L the 35 1.4L could be a good choice...
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5DIII Buffer

wickidwombat said:
RedEye said:
Does anyone know what the total Buffer capacity will be on the 5DIII? I'm basically a landscape or otherwise 'very slow' action photographer and so wondering if a 5-15MB per second transfer will be sufficient in order to facilitate enjoyable RAW shooting.

Thanks!

do you mean using SD cards of very slow CF?
I know my 10MP 1Dmk3 seems to take FOREVER to write to 30MB/s SD cards vs 90 MB/s CF

Right now I'm looking at using SDXC 128g lexar cards. I would like to take about 300-500G with me on trips, and no laptop for downloading because of space/weight. I thought about getting one great superfast CF card and buying a downloader, but the downloaders don't appear to really be that great or of superior value to just buying more cards. My only fear was that the cards would be too darn slow.
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Focusing problem while using 50mm 1.4 on 7D

The AF on the 50mm f/1.4 is notoriously unreliable. I owned mine for two years before I figured it out. If your 7D has microadjusting, try using that, but understand that you will still have some stray focus issues from time to time. Depending on what you're shooting, the Live View mode is probably your best bet. I recently discovered that on my 5DmkII and am glad I did. I call this lens the Mae West of camera lenses. When it's good, it's really really good. But when it's bad...

With all of that said, I love using my 50mm f/1.4.
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