http://nikonrumors.com/2012/03/09/nikon-135mm-f1-8-lens-patent.aspx/#more-35442

It appears Sony's 135/1.8 has sped up Nikon's new 135. Wonder when Canon will do the same, hopefully with the inclusion of IS.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Yes, the cost of such doings would exceed the benefit, and hackers would find a loophole in short order.

Putting a password in the camera firmware to prevent changing the owner name might make it tougher to sell a stolen camera, particularly if it included a phone number or e-mail address. It would also generate a ton of complaints about lost passwords, just as laptops do.

We can't win, but why make it easier for crooks?

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Yes, it's much easier and cheaper to implement. But once again - what's the process of password reset?

It would be a risk.

Europeans can buy from Hong Kong and not only save money, but get the Canon Warranty. There is zero warranty when you buy a camera from a non authorized seller.

Canon has two dedicated factories building the 5D MK III, and production should catchup very fast with pre-orders.

Ebay / Paypal fees will eatup a lot of a sale price, $200 and more or less, depending on domestic or international sales, and your ebay cost structure. So you might need to get $4200 to make it a reasonable risk, and most would not pay that.

A ton of authorized sellers will be offering them for 200-500 over retail. They can do that, because they get them wholsale.

Thats just a opinion, but I have well over 10,000 ebay sales for my business and for personal items like cameras and lenses.

I changed every thing but forgot my camera.

+1

I'm more interested in first-hand accounts of the Intelligent Viewfinder, and focusing screen quality.

The tolerance issue is somewhat interesting though because Canon could say Approximately for a variety of their camera specs. Approx 6 frames per sec., etc. etc.

AnthonyWithNoH said:

That's actually a really good idea 0.o though I can tell you what each button on my camera does with my eyes closed

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Same here. I suspect that if they had been included people would complain that they added to the cost increase and that everyone knows the button layout by feel anyway.

Warranties can be an issue but one thing to consider for HK is picking up some of the bargain lenses like the 50mm f1.8. I bought mine for less than GB£50 which was a steal as they were selling for twice that in the UK.

If this breaks I can rest easy writing it off. Likewise, things like some of the other sub £400 primes would be worth considering this gamble for.

atrocious said:

Dear Martin,

Long time lurker here. I was not planning on registering but I simply could not take any more of your little show. I have been taking notice of your consistent behavior throughout several topics and just decided to skim through your posts and oh, boy... You began, months before 5DM3 was released, complaining about this and that, how you used to be a Nikon-guy a year ago and were seriously contemplating going back, and you go on to complain about leaked 5D specs, and when 5D comes out, you complain a little bit more, followed by further complaints about sample images. Each time with a definitive statement on how that is it and you are certainly switching back to Nikon. "I know it is going to be expensive but I have to do it". OHHH-KAY! We are bloody idiots on the verge of jumping ship and you are that guy who will give the final nudge, eh? And if that's not it, that's even worse... Like if you do not have a hidden agenda and are simply somewhat neurotic. Because people are taking your comments seriously and responding to your monological rants.

Please, let it go.

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I agree with you. It is painful to say the least.

I have experience with 5D as still photographer. I have waited for HDSLRs to progress for film, and now upgrading to 5Dlll for filming documentary films. I am looking at Zeiss CP.2 and the Canon cinematic lenses. I have no experience with these cinematic lenses. I have been reading about differences between still and cinematic lenses, however, I have not seen any comments about using the cinema lenses for still photos.
Any opinions about whether the Zeiss or Canon cinematic lenses would also give excellent results as still photo lenses? I know they are manual lenses, and I am use to using manual lenses. Thanks for any thoughts by anyone using these lenses. Also, any thoughts on preferences for Zeiss or the Canon cinematic lenses.

Hey guys. I 'll be uploading the shots I took here. I've got slow upload speed so this may take a while...

What's strange to me is that it waits so long at 45 cm before it returns to infinity. Mine just touches the mfd and focuses to infinity right a way. but the actual speed when it's turning is the same as mine.

The actual focusing speed isn't that different from the 1,8, seriously. It's noisier and useless in poor-light, but af-speed between the 3 50's isn't that much. The accuracy is a hole other story.

And if you're used to crap then this af may seem fast, but for the OP and me and all the other people who use the 24 L II , 24-70, 70-200 mkII, on a daily basis, this is slow. Yeas the 85 is way slower, but that's one of the horror examples of slow AF, but I own one and although it's slow, it's not too slow for it's uses and the accuracy is VERY good.

50 L is one of the greatest ever. B-e-a-utiful bokeh and so much sharper at 1,2-2,0 than the other 50's it's a laugh. If anyone starts another tread and getting the reply, "it's not worth it , the 50 f1,4 is much better value and almost the same IQ" If I see that, I'll be trolling them forever....

Found a 5Dii on my local CraigsList for £800 today - is this too good to be true?

BTW - also shipped with a free Lowepro bag

AdamJ said:

moreorless said:

Even with the bulb like front elements at these focal lenghts though the hood still protrudes further forward plus theres nothing to attach any adaptor to. That means that a system like either the Lee one that allows for moveble filters or one like Fotodiox that allows for screw ins are excessively large and expensive both in terms of the holders and the filter sizes needed. If you allow for the hood to be removed and a filter thread to be present then the size and cost of both the holder and the filters themselves can come down since they'll be closer to the front element.

The other option I mentioned would be some kind of drop in filter system ala the Pentax 25mm 645 lens or Canon's own super teles, wouldnt be quite as effective since only fixed grads could be used but would still give it a clear advanatge over the Nikon.

I can understand not taking this route on cheaper lenses where most users will probabley not want filters but if there competing with the Nikon 14-24mm then alot of the market will be serious landscape users and a pretty high percentage of them do want filters.

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I've just looked at my 12-24 and actually you're right: the narrowest part of the petal hood is pretty much exactly level with the middle of the front element.

Edit: I need to correct myself. The front element is at its most retracted position at 20mm, where it is level with the narrowest part of the petal hood. It extends from 20mm to 24mm by about half a centimetre, and it extends from 20mm to 12mm by about a centimetre. So at any focal length other than around 20mm, the front element protrudes beyond the narrowest part of the hood.

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I wasnt saying that normal screw ins would be used simpley without the hood, just that with the ability to detach the hood it would be much easier to use an adaptor for one. Canon could perhaps bundle in a basic screw in adaptor with the lens itself, the filters would need to be larger than normal but not 145-150mm as with the Nikon.

I honestly didn't find switching focus screens that big of a deal with the ZE. Yes, the S screen helps a bit but it's not a huge difference. After shooting with it for a short while you get a feel of what the lens is capable of and you know what your images are going to look like. I definitely wouldn't let the lack of screens deter you from getting the lens. A more important consideration is your subject matter when thinking about getting a Zeiss.

It is not an action lens. It is superb for street scenes and landscapes, but it is very difficult to nail objects in motion unless you are a manual focus wizard. I consider myself very fast with MF lenses, but if something is moving fairly quickly I miss focus more often than not. I use the 24-70 for moving things.

The drawing style of the ZE is very unique and it produces very distinct images. The detail and contrast is 2nd to none. The style definitely isn't for everyone, some find that images are almost 'too sharp'.

As has been mentioned, nothing beats comparing them side by side so rent them if you can. I personally don't think you can go wrong with either, they are just different tools for different situations

3kramd5 said:

^^

Yes, but it's interesting nonetheless. Thanks for the link.

How does the camera know? By communicating with the lens? Begs the question as to what happens when you strap on off-brand glass...

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Yes, it communicates with the lens. That's how the lens name ends up in the EXIF data. The 1D X and 5DIII take it a step further - they read not only the lens type, but the serial number too (for AF microadjustment, so a studio with multiple copies of the same lens can have them all adjusted individually on each body).

Off-brand glass is reported in the EXIF too, at least the ones that AF. But that's led to issues in the past, since Tamron and others spoof the AF system sometimes (so their f/6.3 lenses look like f/5.6 and AF works). To do that, they report the right name, but use a mismatched lens code corresponding to an old, rarely used Canon lens. It's resulted, for example, in some Tamron lenses failing to activate the outer AF points on the 40/50/60D as crosses, they act as lines instead. Relevant to this discussion is that those old lens codes used by Tamron are codes for some of the lenses in the 'F group' on that linked page, the ones that only activate only 47 of the 61 points...

One nice feature of the 5DIII/1D X transmissive VF display is that it will only show you the AF points that are active with the specific lens you're using.

zim said:

wickidwombat said:

it will, you can take a card out of a 1D and put it in a 5D and view the raws or vise versa, or even an SD card from a 1D and view it on a rebel

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Never had to do that before so it's just a curiosity, I assume that I wouldn't be able to view 1DX Raws on my old Rebel without a firmware update? and that won't happen.

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hmm I'm not sure, I was in syndey on holiday with my wife taking pictures and one of the photo guys that sets up there and does the paid portrait things offered to take a pic of us on my card so i gave him the card out of my 1Dmk3 he put it into his 5Dmk2 and shot a few photos then gave me the card back and i put it into the my 1D3 and it could view the pics, with the 5D2 being a newer model I was suprised it worked but i'm not sure how far backward compatible this would go

dericcainphoto said:

I pre-ordered a 5D Mark III, so does that mean that I can AFMA on both sides of the zoom when I get it? That would be pretty cool, if so.

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Yes, you can. I have no idea how exactly it uses the two numbers. For example, if you enter -5 at the wide end and +7 at the long end, will it run a gradient of adjustments across the zoom range (progressing from -5 to +7 in small steps as you zoom)? Will it abruptly switch from -5 to +7 adjustment at the midpoint of the zoom range (or some other arbitrary point)? Time will tell...

PixelReaper said:

Does anyone have experience with the Kenko dgx tele converters? I will probably go with canon but was curious about the kenko as it can be used with non tele lenses.

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The Kenko is excellent. Its also a good buy. You have a 30 day return window at Adorama, if you decide its not what you expected.

marekjoz said:

neuroanatomist said:

DesiFob said:

thanks everyone for your feedback.

I tried some shots last night.. couple questions.

1) when I shoot in auto mode... 1/60 F 4.0 ISO 1600 is the configuration shows up for the pictures .. when I set everything in Manual with exact same settings... the exposure indicator is around -3... which is not good...

When I lower the speed for the the correct exposure to 0 the speed is around 1/15 too slow... and pictures are over exposed... if I lower the ISO i have to further reduce the speed...

The pictures look just fine in auto mode or in M with the settings mentioned above.... so what is wrong with the exposure?

when we use flash (430) on camera do we still try to get correct exposure?

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Nothing is wrong with the exposure.
(..)
.
Definitely bounce the flash off the ceiling...but hopefully the ceiling is white, else you end up with a color cast in the shot. If the ceiling is colored, head to a craft store for a large piece of white foam core, and have someone stand on a stool behind you and hold it over you at an angle, pointing the flash head up and back to bounce the light off the board (you'll have to play with the angles to get the positioning correct).

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Happily for you having 7d may help you with flash setting. Having 430 and 7d you can experiment with flash off the camera's shoe and using it a slave mastered form 7d's built in flash. You can simply find more convenient place for flash operating than on a camera. Built in flash usually tends to cast shadows and it depends usual on a distance from people to the rear wall. This configuration (7d + 430) is really nice o experiment with. If you decide to use this technique (built in flash for master and 430 for slave) you have the opportunity to use 430 as a source for ambient light (directing it on a wall or ceiling if they are white). Experimenting with proportions of light (inbuilt vs 430) you can avoid shadows but rather make people having small light reflections in eyes and not overexpose then from front. I would set proportions of lights in such a group to 4:1 or even 8:1 (430 vs built in flash). If it's difficult to cast light on ceiling on a wall (they are not white or ceiling is high or walls away like in church ) you could experiment even more trying to put your slave 430 on a chair and cover it (letting some room between then) with white tshirt or sheet. This will let you feel like having a softbox still with master in your inbuilt flash.

That's pretty impressive actually. I wonder if they were using MagicLantern w/HDMI recording to get the video output, or if it was simply doing the LiveView over USB2.0 via the SDK. Too bad the LEDs were so large, if it was a bit smaller dot-pitch, that'd be even better camouflage

Only two of the posts on this thread refer back to the hope that a very-high-megapixel camera was in development. This would have been better for my professional work, although the first results I saw on imaging-resource.com looked good from the camera that *was* introduced. (pre-production copy)

No mention of this unit in the "what comes next" post by CR. So it's likely to be some months or a year out. Perhaps a 3DMk1. Anyway, this leaves me with my trusty 5DMk2 and wondering whether to wait before buying a 5DMk3.

Certainly I would rather buy now *and* when the high MP body comes out. Canon is smiling...

jonathan7007

Edwin Herdman said:

I didn't know you had to sign an NDA to take a training course.

Man, how I hate that people can make forum posts like they were on twitter or facebook... ;D

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I know I'm married to Canon, but I wonder if Nikon thinks I'm cute.

michi said:

Right, my whole point about mentioning a new 50mm 1.4 at a decent price is that just about every enthusiast who owns a Canon would get one sooner or later. At around the $500 mark, even the less enthusiastic might save up money and get one, it could be a huge seller.

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I own a 50mm f/1.4, but my impression is the 50mm f/1.8 is far more people than the f/1.4 among enthusiasts.

ScottyP said:

Did they throw in the hood for free? That would be a nice change vs. Mother Canon.

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Oh yes. Free.
Canon not providing lens hoods like a running joke albeit it a bad joke. :
Just 1 of the universe's many mysteries.

The lens also came in a very nice serviceable fitted nylon case. Most likely the lense will stay in my shoulder bag but at the very least it was very protected during shipping.

I've owned both the sigma 10-20 and the canon 17-40. I would say the 17-40 on my 5d2 was at least at a minimum as good as the 10-20 on my crop. The second 16-35 is very nice if u have the cash.