2.5-3 weeks for recal repair...id debate one just returning it till the new batch comes out without the grip problem

TomazK said:

Bosman said:

Shoot i paid more than that for my 1dm3, $300 is a bargain, what are you thinking?

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Hey Bosman,

just the repair for the shutter is around 400$(300EUR), so its not cheap, especially when you expect a shutter to be operational for 300k clicks
I'll have the shutter fixed anyway as I need a camera to use while I decide what to do

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I hear ya man, it must have been a faulty shutter mechanism on your camera from the start.
According to Canon Professional Services I took over 343,849 photos on the 1dm3 camera i sent in in 2010, so how many shots over was it actually??. The mirror, shutter and lever assemblies were shot! Hence the $730 bills to repair my Canon EOS 1D Mark III. I wish i had CPS gold but $400 a year...
[/quote]

Oh well, life is not cheap Thanks for the info and help though And I think after 4 years it is about time to spoil myself a little bit with a new toy
[/quote]
Whatever excuse you can come up with to upgrade I'll stand behind.

Another trick if it is a controlled portrait, is to shoot a few frames of them with their glasses off, then you can clone out the reflections in the glasses photos with the other images as source material.

I'm a huge fan of Santa Cruz and Alviso in Northern Cal.

Here's a shot from SC...

There's a few other ones in my photostream!

edit: included the link
http://www.flickr.com/photos/atosk89/7474813398#

RLPhoto said:

A lens that inspires? Err, I think photographers use a lens to get what they inspired in their brains. :-X

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+1...i look at other peoples pix for inspiration and if need be get/rent a lens to get the effect. I really like my tse24 and 8-16 sigma tho

Ive been so lazy lately i recently updated this morning along with my 7D since they released a new firmware for it.

dr croubie said:

What was the original mount? Contax/Yashica Vario-Sonnar 35-70mm f/3.4?

I don't know much about this lens in particular, but in general I'd be only dropping that much cash on totally mint items. You can get C/Y -> EF adapters pretty cheap off ebay with focus confirm and all, but if it's had the C/Y mount taken off and an EF-mount hacked onto it then you never know who did it or how good it is (unless you can inspect first).

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Not sure, guy says it has an adapter. I think it's a mount adapter, not one that the original has been removed from and the EF put on.

Not going to end up finding out though, after looking at what I'm going to be spending this Month on prepping for Burning Man, I just can't afford this. Probably could squeeze (and I mean squeeze) it in, but I just can't. Ah well, I'll keep my eyes out for another copy in a few months.

I took 5D2 + 24-105L + 70-200 2.8L II + 2x Converter into Eton Dorney, Lea Valley and ExCel
Didn't even rate a second look at any of these venues
They were in a Lowepro Toploader + attached Lens case

Brian,

If I had the time and money, believe me, I'd keep the 1Ds3/1Ds2 combo and go shoot landscape for a week at a time. It's hard when you spend all your time doing one type of shooting because money comes into play and you sort of lose some of the fun of the hobby. But I guess it was my choice. No demand here for portrait work as heavily as you have it; it's all sports. There are no sports photographers to be found for universities for some odd reason. EVERYONE is doing weddings/senior pictures, so the current demand is sufficient, but the supply of photographers is also very high. I can honestly say that I am more skilled at sports/action than portrait/landscape. It would take me a lot of studying and practice to do those types of works. Weddings are a tad different as you can approach as photojournalistic.

As you can see, I sometimes miss my histogram and WB in indoor lighting. This is something I will have to get better at, but with gyms for basketball and volleyball the lighting is so even, it hasn't been a problem at all, whereras indoor events with mixed lighting is tough.

Changes
Firmware Version 1.0. 7 incorporates the following change.
1. Supports the firmware Version 2.0.0 for the EOS 7D which is made available on the Web on August 7, 2012.

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/consumer_cameras_wft/wireless_transmitter_wft_e5a#DriversAndSoftware

paul13walnut5 said:

although I would have thought the first story was more about the robustness of the memory card than the camera

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I agree in a way, and that sort of reinforces my point. What was the brand of the memory card?

Of course everyone on these forums knows just by looking at the picture, but it is not mentioned once in the story. All people will remember is Canon lost, water, pics saved.....

Very clever marketing if it is...

I also own both of these lenses and they are great lenses. I mostly use the 50L though, it just renders the images more to my liking. So it's on the camera 90% of the time. But the 35L is great for indoor use if you are working close quarters.

I guess it all depends on what you want to shoot, I would never sell my 50 for the 35 but that's just because the 50L fits my style of shooting.

Canon lens code dates - check this one out folks - only "codes" that I know of - http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Lens-Aging.aspx.

Not sure if there are any "special serial number codes", but these are the ones that I go by. Anything else is just a sequential serial number as far as I know, as I would agree, having "secret codes" for ones of "higher quality" just does not make any sense from a purely manufacturing point of view, given the thousands and thousands of lenses that Canon manufactures every year.

WesternGuy

I will be happy with

DSLR - ASP-H senor and 18 MPx or 22 MPx
Design - closer to 7D or to the 5D3
AF system - why not closer to the 1D3/4
7D metring
FPS - may be 5, it will be better than my 450D
51200 max ISO with a nice level at 12800
Price - under 2200 USD ~ 2000 €


450D | EF 70-200 L 2.8 | EF 50 1.4 USM | AT-X 12-24 PRO 4
www.new-z.fr

;D

How Pro will a M-Pro body be ??? Will it be Pro enough to replace a 7D Or will it be just another consumer camera with Pro priceing

Will we see some pro primes announced with the M-Pro body ???

Does the STM lens on a T4i focus slower than a non-T4i with a non- STM lens?
Or more clearly, how does the focusing speed on the T4i with an STM lens compare with something like the 60D with a non-STM lens?

The 550D/60D/7D files all look the same. There is tons of pics available to see these at Pixel-peeper.com.

Just a suggestion, If i had to do my setup all over again. I'd get a 5Dc before I'd buy a lower-end crop body. Its files are stunning.

sandymandy said:

I think the background of the photo doesnt add anything to the image in this case. Its just a tree, some houses and a tower. Plus its blurred also when u check full size. The focus is totally on this girls face and the fence.

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.
I disagree. The power of this image is the starkly focused human surrounded by a cold, institutional setting -- fences in front, fences behind, a tree horribly disfigured by topping, featureless architecture with buildings crowded atop one another and what's probably one of those safe "playgrounds" where children learn to be penned in and not take chances while they are under constant surveillance. And while a tower may be implied, I looked hard and never saw one. The blurring of the background enables it to be correctly identified yet still carry the theme of human hemmed in by faceless institutions.

That's how that particular image plays for me, and to dismiss the background as meaningless is a disservice to the overall image.

I think the message of the original post is to simply think before shuttering. What's the point of the image? Does the background add or distract from the message? A great thing about f/1.4 is it can be used as an instant portable backdrop when needed. But, it's not always needed and doesn't always help the story.

If a picture really is worth a thousand words, I want my full thousand when I create that picture. If I have to show freckles and eyelashes, so be it. If I have to show a teaming bazaar in the background, so be that.

I consider it good personal progress over the last few years that I now almost always screen a scene before raising the camera. I want to see what's in the background and think about what it does to the overall image.

@ Tron. You might be right. The 500 may still be good for sports and action. And good for birding as is and with a 1.4x telli.

I would endorse the Tamron 24-70mm f/2.8 as well. I am happy with their 17-50mm f/2.8 VC, and used it to replace the kit lens. I shoot a lot of family stuff indoors, and the faster lens has made it a lot easier.

neuroanatomist said:

TrumpetPower! said:

There are quite a number of other differences between the 1DX and the 5DIII, but none of them are any more significant to real-world shooting than the noise difference we see here.

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Depends on your definition - if you're talking only IQ, fine. But...better sealing and 250K more shutter actuations seem like they benefit real world shooting, not to mention the improved metering.

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The new metering in the 1DX has really impressed me so far. I still have a D4 lying around and over the week-end I played taking the same shot with both the D4 and then the 1DX (inside shooting) - not a real test but just real life shooting... There is no doubt that both metering system are "tuned" differently. However all the "WOW" pictures I got were from the 1DX. Not only is White Balance much improved from the 5dmkII but there is just something about how the 1DX capture light and adjust the exposure to make some spectacular shots. In comparison the Nikon metering seem to produce more flat pictures...still very good...

My point was not to make this comments about Canon versus Nikon metering, but just using reference points I have/know since I cant compare with the 5D mkIII...

wickidwombat said:

Lol those are some flattering shots there !

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Lol +1 agreed

Hi Hammar,

Shooting mostly lanscape / seascape stuff myself, I think your shots are actually really well balanced and exposed. One thing that I think you might be not doing is post processing "enough".

I hope you do not mind, but I took via screenshot one of your shots and did the following:
1) Brightened the foreground
2) increased contrast and saturation via Nik Software Colour Efex Pro by applying Tonal Contrast and Pro Contrast. Overall took me 2 minute so its very easy.

Here is the result. Again hope you do not mind.