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Canon range $$ vary store to store, but 60D cheap everywhere. Running them out?

Are you looking online or in physical stores? There are many online scammers. Prices at places like B&H or Adorama are pretty close to the best for a authorized dealer. Anything lower by much more than a very few dollars is suspect. Retail stores have a higher price, and graymarket imported cameras (no Canon warranty) can sell for less.

Some stores are not authorized dealers either, so that can affect prices, since they do not get the rebate from Canon.

Looking at this, I'd say $1299.95 is a legitimate low price, and anything much lower, beware!

http://www.bing.com/shopping/canon-eos-60d-digital-camera/where-to-buy/62D126CD8FEB17140001?q=Canon+60d&lpq=Canon%2060d&FORM=HURE
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If this is the best the D800 can do...

moreorless said:
Tuggen said:
GL said:
Tuggen said:
GL said:
http://www.fotosidan.se/forum/showpost.php?p=1792662&postcount=1457

I don't understand the language, but I'm assuming D800 samples reduced to 1600px. If this is the best this camera can do at ISO 1600+, the 5D MkII has nothing to fear let alone the Mk III!

I have the 5D2 and I think this is about 1/2 to 2/3 stop better than the 5D2 can do.
Hopefully the 5D3 has improved to at least this level to. I don't really expect it to be better since we are closing up to what is physically possible to do.
(a 100% efficiency FF sensor would probably be about 1 stop better than D800 so there is not much room for improvement)

Not sure what's wrong with your 5D2 then, because mine is at least 1/2 stop better than this at 1600+. That said the D800 is 36MP, so 1/2 stop worse than 5D2 is still an incredible achievement for Nikon. Just don't expect the D800 to be a low-light superstar, which is what I *AM* expecting the 5D3 to be. That - and video - will be the 5D3's trump cards in my opinion. As a professional wedding filmmaker and photographer, I know for fact my colleagues and I are going to lap up the Mk III if it improves on the Mk II in these aspects. Anything else is gravy. Nikon just can't compete when it comes to pro video on an SLR, and the early reviews of the D800's video capabilities (and quality) seem to pan this out.

Since you are talking about the number of pixels as they should have anything to do with low light capability it is obvious that you don't have any competence whatsoever in what you are talking about.
My guess is that the statement of your 5D2 is at the same lack of knowledge level.
If the 5D3 will have better or worse low light capability than D800 we don't know. We can hope for better but there is not any room to be a lot better. 0.5 stop would be amazing.
The only thing we know is that so far the D800 after D3s and D4 has the lowest high iso noise.

You've posted this before but on a pixel by pixel basis it does seem pretty clear that more megapixels = worse ISO performance on sensors of the same size and technology.

I personally do not buy the arguement that downrezing will always give equal or better results either, I'v seen more than a few NEX vs NEX 7 comparisons recently and the NEX 7 has looked significantly worst at higher ISO's even downrezed to 16 megapixels.

It would be interesting if you could provide links.
What I had found so far, dxo, dpreview, steve huff, and luminus landscape have all failed to show that NEX-5n would have less noise than NEX-7 at high iso.

I think you are right in your comment about downsizing. The result may vary somewhat depening on choosen method of downsampling.
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Lens? 70-300 F4-5.6IS vs 100 2.0 and 200 2.8?

droch said:
I'm looking at upgrading my zoom. I have an old 75-300 and I'm looking at moving to the new 70-300 F4-5.6 IS or two primes a used copy of a 100 f2 and a 200 f2.8 mark 1. I don't really want to go for the 70-200 f4 IS because it just seems a little onerous to carry around its too more than I want to spend and its in your face white.

Since you don't seem to want a white lens, I guess you're talking about the 70-300 non-L. However, don't underestimate the ego boost a white lens gives you, people around you will see you as a "real" photographer and try to justify why they just got a tiny camera and left their "real" stuff at home :-)

My advice: Avoid a cheap zoom at all costs, either get a good (i.e. expensive, not necessarily a red ring) one or primes. At low to medium iso, you will get much better pictures with a short sharp lens and a cropped picture than with a blurry tele zoom. I've got the 100/2.8 non-L macro - actually, you might want to have a look at these, too, they are quite cheap when used and don't have an IS that could be worn down. The 100/2 is said to be even sharper, and you'll love the low light and small dof capability if needed. Of course, you mustn't be afraid of constantly changing lenses when traveling.
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Leacked Pictures Don't Match 5D MK III

bestimage said:
Folks,
Greetings,
This is my first post, I was wondering when all that hipe for new Canon camera was going on, few pictures were leaked assuming to be 5D MK III/X, the aspect ratio of display monitor looked different than 5D MK III, looked like it had integrated grip with a joystick on it, is this something yet to come, does Canon have another camera lined up or is it a replacement of 1Ds series. Any comments please.
Raj
There were two bodies, and the 5D with the grip wasn't integrated, its an optional battery grip with the joystick....
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What's your favorite Canon lens and why?

My Fav is 70-200 f4L IS by far. I also have 17-40 f4L, 300 f4L IS, and 400 f5.6L.

Unfortunately, I bought a new 7-200 f2.8 IS II and it is at Canon for its 5th repair in less than 6 months. Hoping this time they just give me a new lens.

dirtcastle said:
Of the lenses I own, the 50 f/1.4 and the 135 f/2 are my favorites.

Of the lenses I don't own... favorites are 17mm TSE, 35mm f/1.4, 65mm macro, 85mm f/1.2, 100mm macro, 200mm f/2 (duh).

How could anyone not have 200mm f/2 be a favorite?? I mean, aside from the fact that you'll never own one because of the price? ;-)

I have a 16-35mm f/2.8, but I don't like the distortion. Otherwise it's decent... not amazing, but sufficient to get the job done.
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ND Filter for video - how to use?

schemula said:
Lyra Video Productions said:
Maybe the OP can clear it up, but I'm pretty sure in this case he was talking about the stutter you can get from using very high shutter speed, not related to the grid. You'd even get this shooting outside. I shoot a lot at 1/50th (or 1/48th with magic lantern) and 24p and don't have trouble at all with tungsten or other constant light sources.

Yes my problem was specifically related to the faster than 1/60 shutter speed and not the lights. I upped the shutter speed to deal with the fact that my scene was a little too bright. I forget what I used, but it was in the 1/200 range and as long as the subject was still, it was ok, but any side to side movement, and oh man, awful.

The light kit I rent is an ARRI tungsten constant light source.

I've decided to buy the light kit and solve this from the light side. I was not happy with the ND filter color cast and while I may get a less drastic ND filter, I'm going to move to a softbox and scrims and maybe a dimmer or two to get control over the lights.

I'd like to stay under ISO 400 with a 1/60 shutter speed (or 1/50 for 24p) and in the 2.8 to 4 aperture range. But I think attacking this from the light side is going to be the way to go.

Thanks.

Good decision, I think. And I think if you use a softbox that should cut enough light to not need ND inside. I find dimmers are helpful for adjusting back light--just keep in mind that when you dim tungsten it gets a warmer color temp so you may need to get a new white balance if you dim drastically. If you do any outside shooting at all though, you'll eventually want to get a variable ND so you can get those wide apertures in bright light.
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what is the most contrasty lens you have used????

dr croubie said:
Joellll said:
For half the price and sharper results than the EF counterpart, I have zero complaints on this lens.

My only complaint about the Takumar is that now that i've got the FL 55 f/1.2 and EdMika adapter, which one do I use?
I would have gotten the 1.2 if I was affordable. Haven't used it before, but I can't handle that shallow depth of field while manual focusing, so I'd stick with the Takumar.

Did I mention the Takumar is L lens sharp at 5.6?
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WOW, 5D III shadow recovery!!

LetTheRightLensIn said:
I have a weird feeling the 36Mp D800 might end up with 2-3 stops better DR at ISO 100 than the 22MP 5D3. I really hope I am wrong though.

What would make you suspect that? At best, you can get 14 stops out of a 14bit sensor. The previous generation of Canon sensors reached 11.7 stops at best, and around 11.2 on average...despite having 14bit sensors. Sony Exmor sensors in Nikon cameras get about 13.8 stops. If the 5D III has about two stops better high ISO, then you have to figure DR has improved to a degree. Based on high ISO samples from the 5D III, there does not appear to be any banding noise at all, and that was what was eating away the remaining two stops or so of DR from the 5D II (thanks to a noisy ADC, something Canon's press releases and information on their site claims they have specifically addressed). I would be willing to bet the 5D III gets at least 12.8 stops, if not somewhere in the same vicinity as a Sony Exmor sensor.
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AF question

woollybear said:
Thanks for the help. Right now I am just trying to learn the mechanics of cameras and lenses, and their various interactions, from a strictly technical standpoint (as opposed to artistic).

Another question, I know AF points are specified for various f-stops. 1 at 2.8, 4 at 5.6, etc. Why is that? and if the lens is focused at the maximum f-stop, why do they do that?

because the max fstop of a lens may be f/2.8 or 4 or 5.6 etc. ;D
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24-70 f/2.8L vs. 24-105 f/4L

UrbanImages said:
I need some opinions. I currently own a 24-105 f/4L that I switch between a 5D II and a 60D. I do a lot of night photography with low lights and it doesn't seem up to par. Anyone feel that selling it and replacing it with the 24-70 is a good move? And I'm not looking at the Mark II either. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!

Can you define more clearly what is wrong?

I regularly shoot at night with the 24-105 - providing there is an area of contrast then AF works fine.

ISO and aperture only impact shutter speed so the other suggestions of other lens will only impact shutter speeds.
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Canon 5D Mark III preproduction models

@Hippoeater:
The answer to your initial question you will find to a certain extent as soon as the first firmware updates for the 5D Mark III are out, at least for the features, which have been delayed.

If for example a higher frames per second rate was being tested, I expect you will never find out, because this is not likely to be a feature that can be added with just a firmware update.

Looking at older models you will find that the firmware updates contain three kinds of things:
1) Fixes of some kind to issues not found in initial product testing
2) Additions due to some external cause such as new card types requiring different in-camera software
3) Adding features planned for the model, but which did not make it into the initial release

Since the firmware updates contain descriptions of the changes therein you will be able to identify the kind of feature left out and added later.
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What exactly is a stop improvement in ISO?

That is true....

I just got this from a buddy, you guys HAVE to watch this "summary" of the 5d3, I'm laughing beer out my nose and at the same time I'm so emberaased I want to hide under something, a fat chick even,... HUGLEY funny!

Tech News Today 449: Million Dollar Racks

"I don't need 36 mp, the files would be huge, if I wanted huge files, I'd go for the 1d X instead" saay whaat? :P
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HDR Photo From MK3

HDR appears to be only JPEG while the Multiple Exposure Stacking is for RAW and JPEG.

"In-camera HDR shooting

In addition to the Multiple Imaging, the EOS 5D Mark III also features in-camera High Dynamic Range (HDR) shooting, thus allowing the creation of expanded dynamic range JPEG images. With HDR shooting, the camera will capture three images for each shot taken, with one being under-exposed, one correctly exposed and one over-exposed. These are then combined in-camera to create a single image.

When shooting HDR images, you can select the exposure range between the captured images or allow the camera to work it out automatically to suit the overall contrast. The manual range is between +/- 1 to 3EV. When the camera is processing the HDR images, there are several options on how the images are combined. These options range from Natural, which provides a natural looking result, to various creative effects like Art Standard, Art Vivid, Art Bold and Art Embossed."
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Canon 5DX still to come?

tt said:
The rumors went on Canon's announcement of the C400 I think where they promo'd a concept camera. (that at the time looked like a rebadged 1DX just do they could put something on display).

I think you meant C300, not trying to be a dick just didn't want people to see it and get confused. But yes, they are making a cinema dslr and that will definitely have more MP than the 5DIII. I doubt that they are going to call it the 5DX though, as it's going to be part of the cinema EOS line.
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