Keep the 70-200 2.8 IS II and save for the 35L.

Agreed, give it a good work over and make sure you are satisfied with it, otherwise contact Canon.

Lecaramel said:

I ordered mine few hours ago, then I'll see. The vendor told me it's a new model which doesn't have the battery drain issue.
I'll test later the official grip to see the real difference, and when I'll have some extra cash, I may buy one

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Congrats on your purchase, I'm looking forward to hearing about the differences

Thanks for sharing your cleaning routine & tips
Here is what I do:

1+2. I take off the eyecup, clean it and also the area on the camera where the eyecup is attached. I clean the LCD, the batterygrip (I take it off as well). I clean the Pop-up flash, put it up in flash position and take dust under it. I clean the sensor.
3. I use a blower for the sensor. A small brush to clean the eyecup, batterygrip, pop-up flash and the rest of the camera. I do not remove the memory cards.
4. I clean my camera every 3 months. But, extra cleaning while shooting in humid weather or when shooting in the desert. When returning from shooting in the desert I use a damp cloth to take of the sand dust and continue with a brush.

I like to hear more tips.

Still not available from Canon USA. Why don't know, but several camera stores on line in Canada have it. They will ship to US but hefty shipping charge and likely have to pay 6% duty also.

1500 FPS and a 16TB CF magazine memory card

Bosman said:

http://fakechuckwestfall.wordpress.com/

These guys crack me up but they also have tests and proof as well as real experience with both. While they inform, they add a little "color" to explain.

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Ever since Canon had their team of brain washers and re-programmers get to him he rarely says anything on point (well he did have a few points regarding the D4, such as terrible video and such, but he is just making an absolute laughing stock fool of himself with his rants against the D800 sensor and DxO, he is so utterly off-base and clueless I'm not sure where would even know where to begin when it comes to his 'discussion' about sensors).

circuito said:

Here a interesting video review of the 1DX.


http://philipbloom.net/2012/08/14/1dx-2/

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So much for the talk from Canon that the 5D3 would be tops for DSLR video from their line and the magic of 22MP choice.

That said even on the 1DX they still left out the basics of something to help focus while shooting, focus peaking or a moveable 100% overlay box and zebras and, I believe, zoom modes.

mdm041 said:

I've also been looking at the 28-300 as a walk around lens for travel but if I buy it then I can't afford to go anywhere. So I've been looking at the Tamron 28-300 as a much cheaper alternative.

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I wouldn't bother with the Tamron unless you're OK with soft shots and very slow AF performance at the long end. I own the Canon 28-300L but tried the Tamron 28-300MM F/3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD (that's a mouthful) when it came out as an alternative lens when I wasn't in the mood for the weight of the Canon. I shot with it a couple of times before deciding it wasn't for me. The VC did work fairly well and of course it is much cheaper and lighter but a lot of the images were soft compared to the Canon and the AF was very slow at the long end of the zoom.

Now for the Canon 28-300L, I use mine a lot for travel photography. Maybe mine is a better than normal copy but for travel it can't be beat for a full frame camera. It barely cuts it on the wide end on the 1.3x crop 1DM4 and so I ususally carried a 24 and 17 along with it for some shots if I was using it with that camera. I use the past tense because I sold the 1DM4 to help finance a 1D X so I'm now full frame all the way. I personally wouldn't consider it for a 1.6x crop camera because of the lack of wide angle. A big plus for the lens is that it focuses down to 2.3' through the entire zoom range; not quite a macro but close enough for great flower and detail shots. For an older lens design, the IS works very well and the lens focuses quickly. One thing I'll point out about the lens is that it is a big heavy lens. Even when pulled back to 28mm is looks like you are shooting with a telephoto zoom. When traveling with it, I've gotten quite a few "evil eyes" from people thinking I was zoomed in on them when I was taking wide-angle "street" shots. As a lot of people usually suggest, if you have somewhere to rent one, I'd do that first to see if it is for you.

or any other optical view fined for that matter...

Hi guys, I was just wondering if any of you are using Really Right Stuff plate on your camera with Zacuto Z-Finder Pro.... Obviously mounting hole is in different spot (on my 20D RRS plate) and I assume it is not going to be any different on new 1Dx plate that is still on back order for me.

Is it still possible to use Z-Finder Pro with slightly different mounting hole location? What other view finders are popular/good on the market.

Please advise...

Thanks Charles

I liked the Camerastore review of it vs the D800 in a 3 part series. I also thought the DigitalRevcom Review was funny. Drumat5280 has another great side by side. Alot of people hate him and I don't agree with everything he says but Ken Rockwell does a write up as well.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

DMITPHOTO said:

I focused on the word "mixed" and so far this looked the best of all the other adjustments

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Your AFMA method is a formula for disaster. Focusing on a book that way, the camera might grab anyone of the horizontal lines.
Use a target designed to make sure that you are forcing the camera to autofocus exactly where you want it to.
Using software like Reikan FoCal is far better, but at least use something like this. Its free!
http://regex.info/blog/photo-tech/focus-chart

Note how the center horizontal line is isolated so the camera can only lock onto the one place. There is a lot of other good info there as well. Proper setup and exact perpendicularity to the target is a must.

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Thanks for the link

I've got the 100 2.8, and when I first got it I used it at 2.8 all the time. After a while I realized that I usually works, and looks better, if you stop it down to somewhere around 5 when doing macros.

Of course, this isn't always the case, but when I do macros I basically take a bunch of shots at different apertures, because it's hard to tell what looks good on those little screens.

The 2.8 is amazing when you use it on portraits and other things IMO.

I have the Photoflex version and it does the job well, however the Impact model you posted has a counter weight that would be very handy to have -- I might even order that one to replace mine. The clamps that hold the reflector look identical and they are very strong on the Photoflex version, so I would assume the same on the Impact model.

(http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/744219-REG/Photoflex_DL_BHLDRCOMP_Telescopic_Light_Disc_Holder.html)

The only thing I have seen that may be more promising is the Lastolite Tri-grip Reflector and Holder. This holder only works with the the Lastolite reflector, though.

http://www.lastolite.com/trigrip-bracket.php

This is a sweet idea! Much harder for a thief to walk away with too!

Menace said:

Well done for your first attempt. My advice is to practice and more practice.

Watch out for light burn outs on the model such as photos 7 & 8 - shoulders on both.

Apart from that - have fun

Cheers

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Thanks. After I read your comments. I started to google overexposed background portrait images and came across some very good advice with bg explosure and using flash for fill light. wish i had thought of it during the shoot.

At first, I thought the images came out pretty good for my expectations, but after reading the comments here. I now know there's much more that could have been during the shoot (exposure & composition) and in the post processing.

Thanks for the invaluable tips.

There are several packages on the market as photoshop add-ins that do an excellent job of resampling.
My favorite is Genuine fractals- developed at Pasadena's space lab to enhance data streams from satellites
)think photos from mars) and later made commercially available. Extensis and Corel both had similar programs
and each was about 100-150 bucks. I've used them to take low res web files (like gif logos) to put in business
show displays at about 3 feet square with excellent results. Routinely take 8 -10 meg digital camera files to
print at 24X36 or 30X40 sizes with excellent results. Photoshop's getting better at resampling, but these programs specialize in it and do an excellent job.

Before the Proms recently


Reflecting by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 15-85mm at 15mm, ISO 1250, f5.0, 1/1000 sec

Richard

Candid:


Attitude by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 15-85mm at 24mm, ISO 1250, f5.0, 1/4000 sec

Richard

Axilrod said:

AG said:

Im also looking at buying a 1DX for video, from what i have been reading the image is sharper than the 5D3 and less moire and Aliasing than a lot of the new Sony cameras too.

I dont care about headphone jacks as i use an external "R word"

The real question i have currently is what is the real difference between the 1DX and 1DC?

It seems like a $3000 4K video firmware upgrade.


I wonder if in the not too distant future the Magic Lantern team or someone similar could hack the firmware to allow 1DC firmware to load onto 1DX?

Now THAT would be worth the upgrade in anyones books.

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I saw the image from the 1DC, it's amazing. Not sure what the internal differences are, but it has everything the 1DX does and then some. And it's more like a $5000 upgrade for $4k. Actually the original MSRP was supposed to be $15k but I heard it will be debuting closer to $12k.

I've heard that Canon suggested it's higher price was due to "different engineering" from the 1DX. Yeah I guess putting that little red "C" on it must have cost a fortune :

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It has a special sensor and 12 stops.

A couple of photographs from a recent holiday:


Through the arched window take 1 by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 15-85mm at 61mm, ISO 500, f18, 1/10 sec


Sunset... by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 15-85mm at 85mm, ISO 100, f5.6, 1/250 sec


Lifeguard post by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: Canon 7D, 15-85mm at 18mm, ISO 100, f4, 1/2000 sec

Feedback welcome as always.

Richard

PS: It's tough being back!

Additional incentive to register your camera. The notice I received from Canon included this paragraph:
"We have confirmed that your Canon EOS Rebel T4i Digital SLR camera is one of the cameras in which replacement of the rubber grips is required. Canon will replace the rubber grips on your camera free of charge. Please contact our Customer Support Center using the information below to find out the procedure for obtaining the free repair or if you have any other questions."

Although my serial number was not on the initial recall list, it is among the newly added serial numbers. It wasn't a huge surprise since one of the grips already had a white deposit when I first unpackaged the camera.

Still, I'm not sure why Canon asks owners to contact them to find out the procedure for obtaining the free repair. It seems that it would been easier for everyone if they would either include it in the notification or if they would publish it on their website.

I believe I answered your question in another appropriate thread Secret.

Good job! I think you have a good eye for interesting compositions. Top shot looks over-HDRed.

Canon doesn't say it's "water proof", weather sealed is different.
Everyone knows that in practise they can take a mean beating from the elements but also that if you have it in heavy rain there is always a risk.

Start carrying an umbrella with you. I don't expect any camera to work in crazy rain for hours and hours unless they say it's actually waterproof. The reason why many think they are perfectly waterproof is because of pros that have 1D bodies to spare willingly take the risk of shooting in extreme conditions to get the shot they look for but they have back ups with them and don't cry over lost bodies.