I would hardly call the 5D3 prosumer. I think the gray area body where lines are blurred is the 7D.

Add in another vote for the Sigma 8-16mm.

Basically, there's 3 Ultrawides worth looking at:
Tokina 11-16 f/2.8. Get this for indoors, or where you need fast-shutter or low-light. Apparently bad CA (which can be removed in PP if you really want. the mk2 version will allegedly be out this year, with Tokina themselves acknowledging the CA and promising the mk2 will get be better)
Sigma 8-16 f/(we may as well call it a constant f/5.6). Use it outdoors or on a tripod, don't even think about indoors. Widest framing you'll get on any format (shared with the sigma 12-24s on FF).
Canon 10-22. Bit of a compromise between the two, good IQ and medium aperture.

The canon goes for $7-800 on ebay, lucky if you can get one for $600. The Sigma and Tokina go for $5-600, I got my sigma for $475. Yes, there's other versions (2 more sigmas and a tamron), don't bother unless you want to save money (although i'd consider the tamron 'wasting' money, not saving).
The Tokina and Canon you can put filters on, Sigma not (although I do plan on trying with some 4x6 filters when I can afford them.
The canon you can't put on FF, the Tokina I don't know, but the sigma i've taken shots on FF at 15-16mm (when the hood is *just* out of the frame).


As for stitching: been there, done that, got the Ninja. It's really annoying when clouds move and trees shake, which seems to be every frickin time I try to stitch. It also mucks your exposures a lot, and I've had one case of white balance being completely thrown out from flare washing out one frame.
If you like PP, fine, go ahead. But i'm kinda over it...

Still have a 40D as backup to my 5DII

Hi!

Check (adjust) the horizontal sea level. Neither shot has it straight.

K-amps said:

Marine03 said:

Why not get a Canon Loyalty Program referb 7D? Costs less or same and 90 day warranty

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To get into CLP, don't I have to trade something in?

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A junk 35mm film slr or old powershot will do it. Just give them the serial number. They e-mail you a shipping label so you can send it to the recycling center where is will be crushed. I doubt if anyone really cares if you actually send one, they just want a serial number.
I pick up old Canon film SLR bodies just for the lens for $5 or $10 at garage sales, and save the body for CLP. Check your local craigslist for old $10 powershots, broken is preferred. You can usually get one for $10 or less.

impressive. quote from the press release:

The advanced Sony TX200V digital camera offers extreme fast AutoFocus speeds of approximately 0.13 seconds in daytime and 0.25 seconds in low-light situations (speeds may vary based on shooting conditions), helping to ensure you never miss the moment. The new Sony CyberShot DSC-TX200 camera features a new "Extra High Sensitivity" technology, which minimizes unwanted noise in low-light shooting conditions. The Sony DSC-TX200V digital camera also offers image stabilization during video and still shooting. Using technology borrowed from the Sony Handycam line-up, the "Optical Steady Shot Active Mode" drastically reduces blurring caused by camera shake while on the move. The Sony TX200V can shoot video in Full HD 1080p resolution at 60fps. For consumers who want to get closer to their subjects without losing quality, the Sony DSC-TX200V offers "Clear Image Zoom" technology, which boosts optical zoom to 2x virtual capability (becoming 10x virtual zoom) at Full camera resolution

What would be really cool, and inexpensive+easy, would be for canon to come out with a hotshoe receiver (like a pocket wizard) that could use the signal that the 600ex transmits to use older 580ex's and 430's. also having a port on the side to plug into stobes . FunPhotons
, get on that lol. getting advanced they could also make a trigger that could plug into one of the einseins like the PowerMC2 that could control flash compensation and trigger it.

I would like my cut of the royalties canon. lol

Well done Sir

here's more reflector shot

ihans said:

Just got my 1Dx with a MacbookPro retina and just wanted to say that the FTP transfer is very fast.

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Could you be so kind to share the set up of the 1DX with the macbook pro retina
are trying since this morning with no success!!!!

Thanks so much
Ettore

As a Nex 5n owner wanting FF as well as crop, I originally thought this news was pretty interesting as using the same set of lenses on my 5n and on the full frame would be great. But more likely whatever comes out, you would have to buy new lenses [A-mount or other] for the FF.
So it makes sense to see what new canon and nikon FF offerings come out and weight them all up as solid specs are announced. The only advantage of a ff nex would be size and that kinda goes away if you have to use A-mount lenses. Would be a good choice for landscapers with manual lenses tho.

They look pretty good overall. Some comments:

(1) (crowns). The guy is out of focus -- you need more depth of field for this shot (two subjects different distance from the camera), and maybe focus on the closer of the two subjects.

(2) (kiss) composition maybe a little tight. Very tight composition tends to remove the feeling of motion from a picture.

(3) (dance) composition a little tight again -- not tight enough to look intimate, yet too tight to make it look like they're dancing. Also very centered.

(4) second last portrait shot -- composition is a bit awkward -- subjects are centered, the big light is in the center and the path kind of pulls the eye out of the frame.

Besides practice, would recommend some reading on composition (try "The Photographers eye", Michael Freeman)

tron said:

Bosman said:

Stone said:

Sigh, not everyone shoots every 35mm shot at f1.4, if one's only purpose for purchasing this lens is to obliterate the background on every shot, that's certainly your prerogative but myself and many others want to the use the lens in more than that 1 limited scenario. Corner sharpness is important to many, myself included but I won't discount those that find it unimportant as "using it wrong". In addition to those "artistic" shots, I would use this lens to shoot low light street scenes where I would in many cases want corner to corner sharpness. One eyelash in focus is not the be all end all of artistic composition....

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I agree that "artistic" doesn't mean shallow DOF. I am kinda sayin that to be serious about corner sharpness no one should expect it below F2.8 on any lens, well i don't anyway. I actually rarely shoot below F2.2 personally. I don't think it lends to great photos unless your subject is enhanced by the composition. For me single person portraits & Detail shots usually fit into the shallow DOF category for me. If the surroundings lend to the image and tell a story they are more useful somewhat in focus. F1.4 is good for astro photog and for corner sharpness i'd guess not many landscape photographers shoot larger apertures than F5.6, thus making this mute point imo as this lens is excellent stopped down.

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Hello,

I have 35mm 1.4 and 1.4 is not even good for astro photos! Stars that are not close to the center look more like ... seagulls due to coma! You have to close it at least to 2.8 to get rid of most of the coma
Still, I am not really complaining because the 16-35mm 2.8 had again extreme coma at 2.8 ...

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I read an article about it and when you consider dof, its not a prob. I haven't read about using the 35L for stars.

rmblack said:

Alright guys,

Got the lens, it's optically in great condition, a lil' bit of internal dust but nothing to worry about.

Things to worry about:

- Put two rubber bands on over the loose grip and it seems to be fine...but weather sealing is @ -1
- The part of the lens that houses the rear lens element moves slightly...and moves the rear element by about a millimeter. This I took to be a huge problem, as if that moves while shooting my focus will change. (yes?)
- Did some real quick afmf adjustments...and +20 looks the best. (5dmkII)


Optically it's still a beast, and I don't think I'll be returning it...but is there any way to improve on it's faults? Please share any experiences you may have had!

Thanks guys!

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Some of the third party camera repair stations still have a few parts, and they salvage whatever parts they can from severely damaged units. Check with them about possible repairs.
Check Fred Miranda, since there are several there who use the lens.

wickidwombat said:

why not just shoot in raw and have 1develop preset in lightroom then batch process it all .it will give much better results than the crap in camera processing and requires little effort

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sorry wickid, i dont always shoot raw but one thing i'll say is Canons noise red in camera is far far far from crap.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

AF with those pins taped varies from model to model and body to body. I taped several lenses and tried TC's on them with my 5D MK III, and they struggled or did not AF at all. Only one, a old 70-200mm f/2.8L did what I'd call a reasonably fast and accurate autofocus with TC's stacked. My old 40D would AF on almost any lens with TC at f/8 and usually f/11. It just is unpredictable.

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Right. That is why I am not going to buy till I try. I miss the reach of the crop sensor so I figure at least getting to 560mm with a 1.4x will help.

Meet Pentax new CEO......

@DD: Nice recommendation. I totally see this making my 5D + 24-70 or 70-200 a more comfortable to walk with.

I will certainly consider it in the future.

Use the guide for the 1DX; it is essentially the same AF system. It is here: http://downloads.canon.com/CDLC/EOS_1DX_AF_Guide_CDLC_Updated_June_2012.pdf

Take 5d III on your travels with 24-70 for general purpose, 50 1.4 for low light and 70-200 for reasonably longer reach. Also, depends how much weight you want to carry. In addition, I like the idea of T4i with 10-22 for ultra wide landscape.

Cheers

neuroanatomist said:

rumorzmonger said:

Of the dozens of Canon EF lenses I've owned and tested since Canon introduced the MA feature, I have yet to find a single lens that has needed *any* MA adjustment.

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Lucky you! May I ask...how have you confirmed that no adjustment was needed?

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I find most Zoom Lenses need adjustments... (Near and Far) I used a LensAlign Target with Ruler but found it to be long and subjective to my analysis, I've since invested in a great program called Reikan Focal which takes the guess work and time out of aligning my lenses.

http://www.reikan.co.uk/focal/

Guessing your alignment is not the way to go... there's a huge difference in clarity and crispness with just +1 .. also when using this software or a LensAlign Target, Canon suggest 50x the focal distance I find 25-30x gives better results. A good rule would also be to test 50x if you shoot far from your subject and 25x if you shoot close to your subject.

AAPhotog said:

This has been known about for quite sometime. I believe it has to be in liveview as well when the laser hits it.

Im just curious how canon would handle a warranty repair on such instance as there is certainly no warnings from them about the possibility of this happening. So would it be user area and no free fix/replacement from canon?

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Yes, the topic is two years old, and someone just now resructed it. Maybe CR should lock all the old topics?

I agree to just get a UV or Clear filter. I would say that if you can find a well priced one that is made of brass then I would do that. I've had one get stuck before and the brass are simple enough to get off since it is so soft. Others could cost a nice penny to have fixed.

And don't forget, you are usually shooting a waterfall with a small aperture, f11-f22, to maximize depth of field. So the 3 stop is likely plenty.

Does nobody remember CCE cases? Maybe they were only popular in the UK. I remember seeing a documentary with wildlife photographer Chris Packham, probably about 15 years ago now, where he was using some CCE stuff.

Besides the Canon G series, would you consider the S series?

Gman said:

Interesting reading. Especially as I am stuck in the need to get a new camera to travel with, within the month. The G11 has reached the end of it's useful life for me, there's no point in buying a G12 if there's a suspected G13/14 on the horizon. I'd kick myself silly if while waiting for the Gxx to come along I settled for the G12. So I have been looking around, like many I have a good dslr an Oly E410 with kit lenses and a great 12 -60mm Zuiko lens but it's too heavy for me to travel with (no silly remarks please).

The Canon EOS M wont be available until mid October when I will already be away. So what do I get in the meantime. No excuses that it's for the wife, it's for me. My wife never touches a camera unless I put it in her hands.

Anyway I dont want to travel with loads of lenses and so the RX100 looks very tasty to me too, I looked around for competition I couldn't see anything near it. Pity about the restricted zoom but it does seem to get good write ups around the groups. let's face it I wouldn't even be talking Sony if Canon got their act together and announced the G13 or 14 or whatever they or going to call it, bet they announce it at Photokina available........ xmas! Just like the EOS M announced recently not available till mid October, is that just to get us salivating or to make sure we dont wander off to the competition in the meantime?

By the way, I looked at an OMD body and compared it to my G11, it's fine until you start putting lenses on it, it will be the same with the EOS M but at least the OMD has a swivel screen (I think).

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