MikeGalos said:

Those old conspiracy theories are, frankly, garbage.

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So is this new one by @mimbu and the fact that he cannot produce any evidence to back up his claim is telling. But some people like to attach their tinfoil hats to their heads with cyanoacrylates.

Super cool. Is the last image taken from over the back fence?

All your shadows and highlights will belong to Apple!

Key items from story:
* dynamic range of 120dB (almost 20 stops)
* stacked sensor with low noise
* Lateral Overflow Integration Capacitor
* Built in noise-sensing circuitry
* 3 transistor pixel design

koenkooi said:

Has Sigma actually announced the 12/1.4? I can only find it here and SAR...

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Not yet. There are leaked images but Sigma postponed the release for unknown reasons.

TTran said:

As a Powershot V1 owner, Canon please make a multifunction hotshoe small flash. It does not make sense to buy an adapter just to use hotshoe flash.

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As an R50V owner: yes!

TTran said:

Should’ve just built one in the camera.

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We'll have to disagree on that

I have attached the same pictures twice. So the first three pictures are when IBIS was OFF and the second three are when IBIS was ON. The OFF versions are less blurry.

I happen to like ON1 for some things so nothing against them. BUT their NR is without a doubt NOT the best in particular above ISO6400 to be sure. DXO runs all over them as far as detail retention and banishing noise altogether even at ISO52000. I've run too many tests above ISO6400 to not be saying this. Topaz Photo AI is also remarkable at banishing grain as well and tends to do a rather good job at keeping detail as long as you manipulate their sliders. As for over sharpening in DXO that comes ONLY when you don't bother to work with the adjustments. Sorry but there's NO way ON1 noise reduction is all that competent above ISO6400 if one goes there. So many other good things about ON1 however. I actually work with it as a preference when doing my portrait work. For landscapes and items of high detail DXO is THE go to. With Topaz a reasonably close 2nd

Really hope so, would actually lead to me getting a second body for wildlife. Can do a remote setup near hides and perches. Add auto capture with animal eye af and I could do a setup and go for a coffee haha.

I think the biggest issue with the R1 is the R3. If the later had not been made I think more people would have been wowed by it. I think Canon have got a problem though in they need to get away from the old philosophy of the DSLR era where lower megapixel to prioritise fire rate and R-WR speed. Nikon and Sony have shown you can move away from this thinking.
I do disagree with the notion the Sony A9iii has better AF.
The last time I tried the R1 the AF was ridiculous, it would not let go of subjects. The one area I hope this goes further is wildlife especially with those in trees/bushes etc to control losing focus on to branches etc.
I have high hopes we may get a high MP version more aimed at wildlife shooters at some point. I do hope they steal with pride from Nikon on the sensor cover and ditching the mechanical shutter.

koenkooi said:

You can check which mode the camera is using in the EVF:
No shaky hand icon: no IS
Shaky hand icon: one form of IS
Shaky hand with plus sign: IBIS+IS

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Thanks for the clarification. I've been going through this with the RF28, the RF24-105, the TS-E 24 f/3.5 II and the EF100 f/2 and the 70-200 f/4 IS II. I don't have any third party lenses.

scyrene said:

Funny how people who say ridiculous/silly/nonsensical things are so thin-skinned

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I rest my case

Do you need a DSLR to drive an EF lens?
Or even a camera?
No...
Canon EF/EF-S lenses, meet Raspberry Pi!

So cute!

dochawk said:

Which battery are you using? We found the speed improved dramatically using the P over the N.

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I am using the original P only.

I’m considering one of these brands for their snappy convenience—any thoughts on which is best? Right now, the NiSi system is standing out for me. It looks ideal for landscape work, especially since it lets you snap on 100mm graduated ND filters while also combining them with their circular filters. From what I can tell, Kase doesn’t offer quite the same level of flexibility with that setup.

Avulus said:

Hi ssaibal
View attachment 224588

I have tried the RF70-200mm F2.8 L IS USM Z + EXTENDER RF2x combined with R5 and R5II.

I was quite pleased with results. Here is one example of wiildlide photos. (this was taken with R5).

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Excellent shot! Love the details. I think I will pitch for this lens soon. I was on a fishing boat shooting pelagic birds off the island of Pucusana in Peru today and I realized that I wasn't going full 500 end on my 100-500 as it is difficult to keep the subject in the frame in a choppy boat. And in an overcast weather like the one we had today, I would be better off with a faster lens. I already have the 1.4x TC on my 400mm lens which I could switch to the 70-200 when needed and still get f4.

AlanF said:

The depth of field is so great at those very short focal lengths that just guessing the distance is more than good enough for shorter distances and any long distance setting works for long distances.

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At 8mm and f4 with focus at 2.00 ft, everything from 1 ft to infinity is in focus. At f8, the range is 0.5 ft to infinity.

At 15mm with focus at 2 ft, this changes to 1.5 ft to 3 ft at f/4, and 1.25 ft to 5.5 ft at f/8. If you change your focus to just over 3 ft, then everything from 1.5 ft to infinity is in focus at f/8. With a focus of 6.5 ft, everything from 3 ft to infinity is in focus at f/8. This can provide some very interesting effects.

Here's a few images of the 2000+ images taken with the EF 8-15 on a T2i, 6D over the years. I use it quite a bit less now that I have the EF 11-24. It may get a bit more usage when I want to carry a lighter load. The key is to have some foreground interest in most cases to give it depth. I use it in tight indoor spaces, hiking in the mountains, events, astrophotography and more. The first two are set for infinity focus, the last two for very close focus (nearly touching the lens) so little depth of field and curvature becomes more noticeable.

550D, ISO 100, f 11, 1/125, 10mm. Diagonal fisheye for scenery on a crop camera.


6D, ISO 400, f 4, 30 sec, 15mm. Moon and stars diagonal fisheye - slight start trails from the 30sec exposure.


550D, ISO 100, f 4, 1/60, 8mm. Nearly touching a horizontal log (maybe an inch away), a bit of the fisheye circle showing. 10mm gives diagonal fisheye on crop cameras like the 550D.


550D, ISO 3200, f 4, 1/25 sec, 10mm. Opportunistic cat selfy nearly touching the lens, no chance to change the settings or look through the viewfinder - just held it near the floor and shot. Love the focus on the eyes - pure luck.

neuroanatomist said:

Sorry, what does not compute is your understanding of patents. "Image Height" is not the vertical dimension of the image sensor, but rather it is one-half of the diameter of the image circle. The minimum diameter* of the image circle for a given format is the diagonal measure of the sensor. Plug 24mm and 36mm into the Pythagorean Theorem and you get 43.26mm, divide that by two, and you get...21.63mm. So yes, that's a full frame design.

*Note that for lenses requiring/forcing digital correction of geometric distortion, the image height can be slightly smaller than half of the sensor diagonal, because distortion correction will 'stretch' the final image to cover the corners of the sensor.

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Thanks for clarification. Though if I'd read the patent I would have seen that.

EricN said:

After RF 35mm F1.2L, according to my tea leaves, but my entrails say, at the same time as High resolution R5.

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I didn't know you had already performed seppuku. Was it painful? More than missing the RF 1,2/35?

Good morning, I want to buy the Canon SELPHY QX20 and I want to know if from the SELPHY Photo Layout application it is possible to print in 3:2 format without cropping or resizing. I have an EOS R10 camera and I want to be able to print my photos without losing part of it as it happens in the Instax.

The only thing that keeps me from buying it is the inability to find that my photos won't be resized or cropped when printed.

Thanks!

Seems unnecessary to me, can't see rain getting past O rings as these can keep oil inside hydraulics at 7000 psi although salt and sand can be a problem but I just use a raincover in bad conditions especially when I'm lying in the mud at an estuary and that works even for non weather resistant gear

AlanF said:

You can get shutter shock with both mechanical and EFCS at lower shutter speeds - yes, even with EFCS in bursts because of the closing of the shutter can shock the next frame! So, I use ES for slower speeds and for fast as well when there is no problem with rolling shutter. For action at fast speeds, there is no rolling shutter or shutter shock for mechanical and EFCS. Like many pieces of kit, there are workarounds to get the best out of it.

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The shutter shock is overblown, especially after the firmware update. Sometimes I forgot to switch back to ES, EFCS/mechanical slower than 1/500 won't hurt the image.

This patent appears to be mainly about implementations of non-extending 70-200F4 for FF, with the APS-C 18-50 implementation being just an incidental output. The reason it's so long for what it does is because it is (amazingly enough) a derivative of a 70-400F4 lens layout. You can sense its telephoto origins in the convex front element: all standard zoom lenses I've ever seen use concave front elements.

My take is that it is bloody unlikely that this 18-50 will ever come to light. A non-extending 70-200F4 is more likely, as that is clearly what they're trying to develop here.

A baller move from Canon right now would be to produce an RF 35mm film body.

I guess it's a cheap Toy when you have Fuji in comparison