Posts

Zeidora · Apr 27, 2016

Just used CPS silver for the first time, a flash repair. Not having to go through a camera store is worth to sign up. For a Zeiss repair, the camera store first sent it to the wrong branch. Simple CLA-repair took over 2 months to get back. CPS less than one week door-to-door. Enough said.

Have enough points for gold, but don't think it is worth it for me. Lens cap and camera strap I can easily dispense with.

Also noticed the environmental message on my two packets. Funny.

Random Orbits · Apr 27, 2016

I've had something similar with one of my lenses, 24L II. I bought it used, and it focused horribly from f/1.4 to even past f/5.6. It went in with the receipt from the seller (still under warranty), and Canon found that the lens AF settings had to be adjusted. My camera never went in, so they calibrated the lens against their reference metrics. They didn't replace any parts either, so it must be reprogramming/adjusting the lens back into spec. It has worked flawlessly ever since.

AcaciaRee, I'd suggest sending your lens in for calibration. It might also be worth checking the focusing performance with another long lens if you have it or can borrow one. Perhaps the camera's AF module has been knocked around so that the AF point in the viewfinder is not matched with what it is actually focused on. With shorter focal lengths, the problem might have been hidden. However, if the camera does work properly with other long lenses, then it's most likely a lens issue.

GMCPhotographics · Apr 27, 2016

CanonFanBoy said:
applecider said:

Good for you hopefully josh will get some great Alaskan images.

For your future I'd suggest the 600 ii over the 400 ii, as I find the 600 hand hold able and able to track BIF at least for short times while the 400 ii is just a little too heavy. If you are buff maybe that's not a worry.

The 100-400ii was just too good a deal for me to resist at 1599$ so I picked it up. I find it very handle able and with great image quality. With the 1 dx and 1.4 ext the hit to focus points for bif becomes noticeable and the f8 largest and need to maintain shutter speed pushes iso to 4000-6400 or more, so dawn and dusk shooting less viable than with a f 4 lens. It is used at maximum length for at least 80% of my shots.

Your needs, strengths may vary.

Click to expand...

I didn't realize the 600 is lighter than the 400. Mostly I considered the 600mm over the 400mm because there is no way I would ever get both... so go long.

There's no right or wrong choice with the 400 II and the 600 II....just preferences and choices. They are both amazing optics and they both overlap a lot of abilities. The 400 II naturally gains that extra stop wide open. But pop a 1.4x TC on it and it's optics are very close to the native 600. Likewise with a 2x and the 600 with a 1.4x. Where the 600 II shines is it's extra native reach and that with a 2x you gain a further reach than you can realistically with the 400 II and converters. Both are amazing lenses. I've covered birds with my 400 f2.8 LIS and 1.4x along side 500 II and 600II users...and the results were very very close.

Apr 26, 2016

Zeidora said:
I.e., can you tighten the setting screws to a degree that holds the heads in place, but still permits moving them around?

Sort of... It's possible to loosen them slightly such that you can reposition them and they'll hold without retightening. But since one screw/knob clamps two of the balls, you sometimes have to do a little pulling to position them exactly as desired, and they loosen up after a few adjustments to the point they no longer hold. It's not like the friction/tension adjustment on a good ballhead, where you set it once for a given load, and you never have to touch a knob until you change the load (e.g. change lenses).

Another option for additional 'local' flexibility is to put a mini ballhead between the flash bracket and the coldshoe. I have a pair of Novoflex Neiger 19 mini ballheads that are really nice, but I also have a Giottos MH-1004 that's plenty robust enough for that use, and at $13-15 is 1/3 the price of the Novoflex.

Jack Douglas · Apr 26, 2016

Another review with RAW samples.

https://www.ephotozine.com/article/canon-eos-1d-x-mark-ii-review-28791/performance

slclick · Apr 26, 2016

So it's not 'Go on Canon Rumors and start an angry rant about the industry'?

Ok, then I'll go with 'Understand Light'

Starfox · Apr 26, 2016

Yup it is

Memdroid · Apr 26, 2016

cenkog said:
Memdroid said:

cenkog said:

Built-in Wi-Fi, GPS & a "Radio Flash Commander" please...

Click to expand...

Inside the grip? That would be the most useful grip ever build.

Click to expand...

No, in-body... An "in-body radio flash commander" is of extreme importance for wedding photographers... Make it Canon, please...

A full Faraday caged body will not transmit these signals reliably. I think it makes more sense to accommodate those things in a grip.

privatebydesign · Apr 25, 2016

SPL make the best surf housings, they aren't pretty, they are built like tanks and look like them, but they are the best. I had my 1 series SPL advertised here when the forum had a "for sale" section. I sold it on eBay in the end, for more than I paid for it they have that good a reputation.

AquaTech are the only other serious surf housing company I would consider.

NorbR · Apr 25, 2016

niels123 said:
Do you haven a UV filter for this lens, and if so, which one is it and does it fit with the hood?

I don't have a UV filter that I actually use.
I could only dig out an old, crappy clear filter that I had at the bottom of a drawer (just because that's the only other filter I had at 58mm), the brand is Morris, and it does fit through the hood as well. But like I said I never use it, so I can't recommend it.

Mikehit · Apr 25, 2016

How did you get a thumb print on the periphery of a recessed lens? Or are you thinking 'while I am here I may as well clean it all'?
I would say clean the thumbprint you can see, take some pictures and see if there is a problem before worrying more.

PeterAlex7 · Apr 25, 2016

j-nord said:
I dont shoot weddings nor will I ever but my understanding is the 70-200 f2.8 IS ii is considered mandatory by pros. At least for the ceremony.

Yup, this lens is a must for pros. Sorry to say, you had no other choice, cpsico. The 85L II or 70-200 II are the only options, even the 85L focus accurately, it still slow, the probability to miss any moments is pretty big, and you must to worry about it. I prefer to take a dark picture than nothing. I recommend the 70-200 IS II for you.

Don't ever think that both sigma's and tamron's 70-200 will serve you as well as the 70-200 IS II will.

PerBuch · Apr 25, 2016

Units with lithium cells are dangerous if not designed and manufactured right. They needs to be under and over voltage protected and charged the right way. Multi cell configurations needs balanced charging. Chinese manufactures don't care.

fugu82 · Apr 24, 2016

Thanks all for taking the time to clear this up for me. I didn't know diddly-squat about transmissive LCDs.

TWI by Dustin Abbott · Apr 23, 2016

andrei1989 said:
has anyone preordered this lens?
i've seen that the first ones have already started to be delivered.
i'm interested in buying this but maybe in a few months or close to black friday/christmas sales...

One will be heading my way shortly (probably after B&H returns from holidays) for review.

pwp · Apr 23, 2016

Mt Spokane Photography said:
teedidy said:

Does anyone have any advice? At this point I don't know what to do?
Thank you for your time.

Click to expand...

You should not be seeing the problem, send the lens back or in for repair. The issues of a Tamron lens have nothing to do with Canon.

Quite right. This shouldn't happen. Hope you're still in your warranty period.
Mine does not do what you've described. It's as close to a perfect zoom lens as I've ever used.

-pw

kphoto99 · Apr 23, 2016

d said:
Nado said:

Has anyone performed a dynamic range test in "stops". Curious.

Click to expand...

http://www.photonstophotos.net/Charts/PDR.htm

Interesting graph if true. The 70D is really bad with in between ISO settings, worst then any semi modern Canon DSLR going all the way back to 40D

Apr 23, 2016

dak723 said:
I realize that the sizes of the sensor are different between FF and APS-C, but if they have the same number of MPs, would you get the same level of sharpness taking hand held shots (same lens, settings, etc.) with both cameras? Or it something beyond pixel size that would make the FF shots sharper?

The FF image will appear sharper (assuming you're comparing same framing, etc.), because to compare them at the same size, you'll need to enlarge the APS-C image more. Check TDP's comparisons with the 200/2 L and crop vs. FF bodies.

JonAustin · Apr 23, 2016

Ian_of_glos said:
When you are using AV mode, by default the camera assumes that you want the background to be correctly exposed as well as your subject. If you are using ETTL then this will calculate the correct flash power so your subject is exposed correctly. The 5D mk3 then leaves the shutter open after the flash is fired until the background is correctly exposed. Personally I find this behaviour rather annoying because the shutter can remain open for a very long time, but the 5D mk 3 does allow you to set a faster shutter speed by changing the "flash sync speed in AV mode" setting. You can choose either the camera's sync speed (1/200) or a shutter speed between 1/60 and 1/200. Please note that if you use either of these options then it prevents you from using High Speed Sync on your flash - because you are not allowing the camera to use a shutter speed that is faster than 1/200. If you are using AV mode then you can only use high speed sync if you set "flash sync speed in AV mode" to auto.
Using Manual rather than AV will give you a lot more control over your exposure and you can set a shutter speed that exposes the background the way you want it to look. You can still use ETTL to expose your subject correctly.

+1

When not using flash, I find myself shooting in Av mode most of the time. But if I want to expose a dark background in Av mode with flash, I'd better be using a tripod.

I have found it's just easier to shoot in Manual mode when using flash most of the time, because you set all the variables as you want them, rather than leaving those decisions to the camera's program. The exception is when I'm shooting in bright light with flash (i.e., to prevent shadows under hats, in eye sockets, under noses); in those situations, I'll use HSS in Av mode.

sanj · Apr 23, 2016

Thank you so much. Expatinasia.

Valvebounce · Apr 23, 2016

Hi Jon, soldrinero.
If this is available in small quantities this looks like it would be ideal, easy enough to make a U to clear the filter wheel and you could incorporate 1 or more Arca Swiss quick release plates to allow quick set up and break down and micro adjustment to prevent strain.
Looking forwards to seeing some of the results on the other thread.

Cheers, Graham.

soldrinero said:
If you're building your own support, an easy way might be to use 80/20: https://www.8020.net .

d · Apr 23, 2016

Great little camera. I've still got an Olympus Trip 35 floating around somewhere with a half shot roll of film in it still. You've reminded me I should finish the roll and get it developed!

d.

expatinasia · Apr 23, 2016

GuyF said:
RAW files available here for scrutiny - https://www.ephotozine.com/article/canon-eos-1d-x-mark-ii-review-28791/performance

Thanks for sharing that link, GuyF.

One thing from that article that sticks in my mind is this:

If you are going to be recording 4K video .... a 9-second video at 50fps creates a 900MB video file

Apr 22, 2016

kphoto99 said:
Luds34 said:

dolina said:

- film lens with film optics

Click to expand...

Whoa! It's a good thing my (digital) cameras don't know any better and still accept the light and images from all my "film optic" lenses.

Click to expand...

Lens designed for film is different then a lens designed for digital. The reason for the difference is the thickness of the sensor stack. The glass in front of the sensor has an effect on light. Google "sensor stack thickness" and look at the article from LensRentals for a better explanation then I could give here.

Given that article, one would expect the same Zeiss lens to be much sharper on the Sony A3000 than on the A6000 – is that the case?

I'd also note some flawed assumptions, like theoretical MTFs based on a glass refractive index of 1.52, when any camera with an AA filter in the stack has a substantial proportion of the stack as LiNbO3 with a refractive index of 2.3.

Mt Spokane Photography · Apr 22, 2016

The issues will dribble out slowly. It seems to me to be a cultural thing. In the US, I'd be working 24/'7 to come up with answers in a few days, and have a plan to recover. I expect to continue to hear results of their investigation for months.

The simple facts are likely that the plant will be out for at least 6 months, possibly a year or more. Customers like Apple will have to go to a different supplier for the IPhone 7, and likely delay it, since the design is certainly frozen by now. Samsung may be in better shape to make their own sensors.

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