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EricPeeg · Nov 25, 2014

+1 to the comments that precede mine.

I purchased several items from them during last year's Black Friday sales, and felt like I got exactly what the description said. I'd purchase from them again, if the price and the product were right for my needs.

RustyTheGeek · Nov 25, 2014

From the images you have uploaded so far, I'm impressed. It's not easy pulling off an outdoor backlit scene like that. And the 2nd shot with the bridesmaid on the left, that gives the whole shot a great dose of color!

From what I can tell, it appears that it was a pretty informal and casual wedding. That doesn't make it any easier to shoot, maybe even harder, but I think that might help a little with the stress since there isn't as much formal 'hoopla'.

I agree that I would NOT want to make a living doing weddings but the occasional casual wedding is a nice change of pace if everyone is laid back and not divas. Plus, there's always the free food and drinks once you got 90% of the shots.

Sella174 · Nov 25, 2014

Marsu42 said:
For others, it's less weight/bulk for the same performance, better sharpness esp. wide open, better bokeh and some people simply like being forced to zoom with your feet.

Thanks.

Nov 25, 2014

krisbell said:
Thanks Neuro - yes ideally a comparison with 300II. I have no reason to doubt you but have you seen any review or site that has actual examples so I can see with my own peepers what sort of difference we are talking about?

I haven't, and I doubt we will. Best option may be to rent/borrow a 7DII and 1.4xIII and try it yourself.

justaCanonuser · Nov 25, 2014

e17paul said:
neuroanatomist said:

e17paul said:

If this can be done with a 1.6x crop sensor, then the next generation of full frame cameras with 2.5x the sensor area should mute the critics, at least for a short while.

Click to expand...

Fat chance.

Click to expand...

I'm one of life's greateste optimists

Pretty sure that the DT (Dynamic Trolls) will always find something to complain...

Marsu42 · Nov 25, 2014

Yiannis A - Greece said:
I know this kind of stuff between these two models is something all of us are expecting to see online so, i hereby paste a link to it.

Correct/Updated link on the very bottom (literally). Unfortunately, these specs reciting yt reviews are never "in depth" even if they say though. The author claims that the crop 7d2 and ff 5d3 show little difference in overall image quality (7d2 up in video, 5d3 in low light) which imho is misleading unless your name is Ken Rockwell.

But what can you expect from a yt guy comparing smartphones, gaming consoles, watches, computers, monitors, ...? If you want review, read this: www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EOS-7D-Mark-II.aspx

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBp_2wRmtrQ

Mt Spokane Photography · Nov 24, 2014

Mitch.Conner said:
Mt Spokane Photography said:

The only IS noise I hear is from my 300mm f/4L It clunks so loudly that I can feel it. That doesn't mean that others are quite, my hearing is poor at best.

Click to expand...

That sounds exactly like what a Canon technical service rep was describing as what you'd hear and feel if there was a problem that needed to be looked at.

You sure it's ok?

The 300mm f/4L has a early IS system, and is well known for the clunk when IS engages. It is pretty loud, but there is no problem with the lens.

RustyTheGeek · Nov 24, 2014

wtlloyd said:
Judging by your statements, you don't have particularly deep pockets. For this reason alone I wouldn't consider anyone but Canon.
A Pro has business needs completely different than an enthusiasts. Canon has a range of bodies and glass that far outstrips all competitors, allowing you to assemble a main kit AND a lessor but crucial secondary kit that will function as backup.

No other manufacturer compares in support and service to Canon. Can you afford to replace a broken camera or lens out of pocket on short notice so as to not miss a shoot? Nikon has a downright lousy reputation for their repair service, Canon are stellar in this regard and often generous in their warranty repair. Nikon isn't alone in mediocre performance, no one is in the same ballpark as Canon.
Join CPS, get a 2 day turnaround on your repairs, and never look back.

Totally agree with wtlloyd! Great points!

Pros are (or should be if they're smart) much more frugal and pragmatic with their equipment purchases. The gear needs to be sufficient to satisfy the needs of the business and nothing more. (Where enthusiasts buy stuff because the want it, a pro buys only what they truly need.) Running a business is more about the balance sheet, not about the photographer. The photographer (whether it's you or an employee) is merely part of the business mechanism. The business of photography is more about marketing, sales, customer service/services offered and reputation. No one cares about the camera gear except the person holding it. And every item purchased, even if it's just a memory card, takes away from the profit of the business.

Good luck with your upcoming business venture! Just please realize it's a long, hard, slow process to profitability.

ritholtz · Nov 24, 2014

If you want to do pushing shadows experiment with lens cap like Nikon reviewers, 7D2 (6d/70d) suppose to be better than 5d3 in terms of banding.

Quasimodo · Nov 24, 2014

winglet said:
Custom function C.fn-01 "Auto power off" set it to 1: Off (Disabled)

It's all in the manual. Try at page 92 to start.

Again, thanks. It worked like a charm

Sabaki · Nov 24, 2014

Birds in flight is one of my favourite genres, even though I can't say I'm great at it.

I have seen some SUPERB BIF images and for handheld, the 300 f/2.8 mkii, 400 f/5.6 and the 100-400 are the lenses usually partnered with a 7D classic, 70D or the 7Dii now.

Yes, birders with the 200-400 or big whites do shoot handheld but I find that they "beanbag" or use a tripod more.

Birds in flight has a few criteria for me: sharpness, frame fill and intimacy.

Sharpness is self explanatory but intimacy with your subject is important as if you don't fill a sufficient portion of your frame with the bird, it lacks that WOWS factor.

7Dii and a 400 f/5.6 or better still, 300mm f/2.8 with x2 TC would be my recommendations. Start with bigger birds, learn to track and then move onto slower ones

BeenThere · Nov 24, 2014

This is the week that the new 400mm DO II is suppose to start shipping. Has anyone heard anything about any dealer shipping units for pre-orders?

InterMurph · Nov 24, 2014

The reviewer is a news shooter. The FS7 is designed for that use, while the C300 is designed for filmmaking.

I don't see the two cameras competing that much.

Alefoto · Nov 24, 2014

antonioleandro said:
Alefoto said:

Some more suggestions...

As others have pointed out, take care of the cold and moisture problems when going back and forth between cold/warm environments. No camera sealing can protect you from that, only good discipline can. The same can be said for changing lenses/gear while out on the field. People were taking pictures in the (Ant)Arctic 40 years ago when cameras were not weather proof as today. The weather is still the same as 40 years ago. I know it can be tempting to check soon your pictures once back on warmth of the ship but that's exactly what you don't have to do in the first hour. Let your gear warm up gradually first.

Do you recommend putting the camera on a plastic bag before entering the ship and keeping it there for one hour or more? Should I use any other technique?

The basic rule is to avoid sudden and large changes in temperatures and humidity on both lenses and cameras. The thing you need to consider is that the longer it takes for your gear to warm up gradually from the outside temperature to the inside warmer temperture of the ship, the lesser the condensation problem. This depends on the difference between outside-inside temperatures (wider difference =longer time). A simply plastic bag like the ones you get from a supermarket will help but only marginally. A zip bag will help more. You can also simply leave your gear inside your closed photo backpack and put your jacket on it as a further insulation and then let the gear warm up gradually (longer=safer), possibly away from heating sources. If you have to take out memory cards, battery or change lens, do it before coming back inside.

To answer your question about leaving your gear 1 hour inside a plastic bag, considering outside temperature in the -10 - 0 range and the inside one around 20C or more, I would wait more and add more insulation (photo backpack and jacket on)

Also, before you go, I suggest you take a look at this book "Poles apart" from Galen Rowell. It's an old book but I find it a simple but at the same time inspiring book. At the end you have also short notes on the technical stuff (lens, aperture, etc.) for each picture. It can be found online.

The book appears to be amazing. I found some pages online and I will try to get a copy.

Click to expand...

even if it's 30 years old and done with film equipment, I find it very explicative and inspiring. The last pages with shot notes for each picture may help you deciding what to take along, even if topics like iso or film type are outdated

weixing · Nov 23, 2014

Hi,
No one having this problem??

Anyway, after some more testing... seem like the issue will happen only at longer focal length... 350mm and longer. At focal length shorter than 350mm, it doesn't seem to happen.

By the way, one way to make sure the lens will search focus till the minimum focusing distance is to put the lens cap on.

Have a nice day.

weixing · Nov 23, 2014

Hi,
I accidentally took some shots at ISO 12800 and after a basic NR in LR 4, it's look ok to me for web use:

Have a nice day.

Don Haines · Nov 23, 2014

Mt Spokane Photography said:
The batteries are in series and get used equally, but there are some possibilities.

1. A bad battery. Remove the bad one. This would be a 99% + probability

2. Bad battery charger not fully charging batteries.

3. Current leakage in the battery compartment or related bus bars of the flash that affects only one battery. Look for any contaminants.

4. Excessive heat in the flash right next to one cell that is causing a problem with it.

That's all that immediately comes to mind.

+1

bholliman · Nov 23, 2014

Mitch.Conner said:
EDIT: I just noticed that this site has only reviewed 3 Canon cameras, whereas it has reviewed 20 Nikon cameras. Similarly, it's reviewed 37 Nikon lenses and not a single Canon lens. That would seem to suggest a bit of bias I think.

Photography Life is a good website, primarily focused on Nikon gear as the review totals indicate. I think they are trying to expand coverage to include Canon, Sony and other manufacturers as well. They have some good general photography articles and tutorials.

I agree that most articles praising the greater DR of SoNikon sensors seem to focus on lifting shadows of badly underexposed pictures. I'd like to see some examples using well exposed pictures with high DR to see how the Canon and SoNikon compare.

BJK · Nov 23, 2014

Marsu42 said:
Question is how much magnification you're interested in, i.e. if you are ok with downsized web resolution. If not, most of your shots on flickr I just looked at don't have thin dof *and* motion, but sometimes a bit slow shutter speed. For most movement from *afar* like basketball the 6d will be fine if you're ok with loosing some shots because the af screwed up. But all other lower light shots on your flickr stream would profit a lot from thinner dof of full frame and higher iso capability. Your call

I do not disagree with you on the dof and higher ISO. Not sure I'll be able to get more dof while shooting from the cheap seats (even with the f/2.8 ), but less noise is something I would love to improve in dark settings.

It's the non-sports pictures where I think I could get more dof with a 6D...which is the way I'm leaning right now. I may try the 70-300 for baseball game or two, and decide if I like the added reach on FF (300mm as compared to the 200mm f/2.8 on FF) enough to upgrade to the L-version someday. The 200 will still be a useful lens when I shoot basketball, or when I can get closer to the field.

My keeper rate's not great with the T3i, so I don't see it being any worse with the 6D. Also, thank you for the flickr critique; I'm always looking for ways to improve.

KevinBainSir · Nov 23, 2014

I've seen some of the schematics of the different engines and canons lenses but I'm telling you guy I tested this lens both on 6D and the 7D Mark II under fluorescent light with a little added sunlight from the front of the store and the STM lens beat all the ultrasonic lenses in speed and accuracy of focus lock in its ZOOM range other than the 24 mm to 70 mm F2 .8 mark II which they did not have at the time and on those two cameras the speed was considerably faster of course those two cameras are built for the STM engine and are the two top-of-the-line cameras in their ranges that are STM capable I can't say if any of the rebels will be as proficient with this lens.

And I also can't say I know anything about if the STM lens is crippled under low light situations more than any of the older ultrasonic lenses or the less sensitive cameras my experience with the Tamrom 24 mm to 70 mm F2 .8 vibration control is that it is just as fast as anything ultrasonic that Canon has put out before the past 12 to 8 years range it is not as accurate though as even some of the older Canon lenses when you crop images down to around 100% or maybe even 80%, and the zoom ring is hard to use when you have a target you want to frame that is moving pretty fast and you want to decide later whether to make it a full body shot or a portrait framed shot.

I also owned the new Sigma art 35mm F1 .4 arts lessons and although I didn't have the chance to use it on my 6D my 70 D even with its dual pixel autofocus had trouble locking on with the all-too-familiar searching back and forth for about 3 seconds.

and I can even consider putting my experiences with the old film EOS 3 autofocus lock with my old 75 mm to 300 mm IS with that metal plaque on it although I hear and read that people compare it to the autofocus system on the 5D Mark II I have to imagine that film focusing and digital focusing have some extreme differences.

sorry about the word mixing i was using Dragon NaturallySpeaking 11.0 and am a private driver at strip clubs and with Uber so i'm always on the go.

wsmith96 · Nov 23, 2014

fair tomorrow said:
And my budget will be 600 USD

With budget in mind, I would recommend a refurb 15-85 or 17-55. The new ef-s 24 prime looks interesting too.

classic21 · Nov 23, 2014

Some pictures taken with Sigma 150-600

http://www.birdnet.cn/thread-867901-1-1.html

http://www.wolfgangsteiner.com/blog-do-show-blogid-173.html

https://www.flickr.com/photos/guccidpo/15601214150/in/photostream/

Comparison with 150-600 tamron:

http://www.birdnet.cn/thread-867901-4-1.html

candc · Nov 23, 2014

i bought the new tc-2001 and updated the firmware on my 120-300s. just to clarify.

the lens still works fine with the canon and kenko tc's

the new sigma 2x seems to be a bit sharper than the canon 2xiii and the af is faster with the sigma. the bokeh is better with the canon.

the 120-300 + sigma tc-2001 + kenko pro 1.4x also works suprisingly well and gives good results on the 6d, not so good on the 7dii

Zv · Nov 23, 2014

Only want to see the 5D Mk4 for curiosity's sake and to see what kind of features it'll have. No plans to buy it or any other new body for a while.

Definitely don't want to see a 6D MkII anytime soon as I just got the MkI recently! ;D

Hjalmarg1 · Nov 23, 2014

DigglerDawg said:
Hi all. I think I might be in the market for a 6D, having recklessly and somewhat regretfully sold my 1DSIII. I'm in the UK, well, Guernsey (VAT benefits, yay!) and wondered if any of you think it's worth holding out for the end-of-November Black Friday craziness? Do you think such an item will receive any deals and where do you think it's worth watching?
Thanks for your replies!

Last year there were good deals Around black Friday so this will probably happen this year

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