Renaissance said:

Note: This letter has been received by Canon Inc. and is currently being taken into consideration.

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"Consideration."

Canon interested April fools day? Next attempt please...

DaveMiko said:

neuroanatomist said:

Is the wide panel pulled out?

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Yes, it is.

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Btw the wide panel tends to get dirty sometimes so the flash doesn't realize it's retracted, in this case you have to clean it and try again...

"their spirited defiance of modern technology..."

I liked that quote!

the lens will focus with the 7D it´s just that it has issues with AI servo mode.

the option you mention has nothing to do with the issues reported on some forums.
these are two different things.

Canon USA announces that the EOS-M2 will be available in the US starting in May.

LAKE SUCCESS, N.Y., April 1, 2014 – Canon U.S.A., Inc. has announced the availability of the EOS-M2 to the US market now that inventory has been cleared of its predecessor the EOS-M. According to Sakuichi Ishizukara, Canon’s Executive Vice President and General Manager, Imaging Technologies & Communications Group, Canon U.S.A., you are being fooled due to the nature of calendar events, known as April fools.


Ain't I a stinker?!?!

My lens hood (on 24-70 II) has been very unreliable, too. After it fall off at a second event, I bought the little lens cap saver (has the strap to go around the lens and the small round plastic piece to stick to the lens cap) and stuck the saver to the hood instead of the lens cap. The saver saved the hood at a busy track meet this past weekend.

I wish I had thought of using a small piece of gaffers tape. I'll double check that the latch is working properly (I have the 70-200 2.8 and its hood has NEVER come off accidentally. I had the 24-70 I and it did lose its hood a few times, but it seemed to be more reliable than the lens hood on this new model.)

I like the idea of the liquid piezo-electric zoom lens. I hope Canon is actively developing one.

when you want background blur get a DSLR and a fairly fast lens.
a 85mm f1.8 would be a nice start for portraits.

personally i prefer the 100mm f2.0 but that is maybe a bit long on APS-C cameras.
thought i shoot portraits with 200mm on fullframe quite often.

as all newer 3 digit (xxxD) canon rebels have more or less the same 18 MP sensor you get bassically the same image quality from all of them (550D to 700D).
but of course with the 700D you get more features.

i would think about getting a 550D for a good price (maybe used) and invest the rest of the money in fast lens. well i don´t know if there will be a rest because im to lazy to google what Rs 25K is in euro or dollar.

i don´t know how much sense a 1000D or any other xxxxD makes.
everyone i know, who started with photography and stuck to it, sold the xxxxD after a year or even earlyer. it´s in my opinion too limiting in it´s feature set. but it´s nice for a first look if you like DSLR photography.
but most who are infected with the DSLR fever crave for more in no time.

Link to the-digital-picture about a new 1 series body. Now... what date is it today..?

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Cameras/Canon-EOS-1D-W-DSLR-Camera.aspx

Lets see the best - seems like Bryan is on the ball:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Cameras/Canon-EOS-1D-W-DSLR-Camera.aspx

I love my modified Steadicam Jr, I picked it up on Ebay for nothing and kept bolting on large washers until it'd balance a DSLR. It is great for run and gun, due to the center of balance being above my hand I can shoot for eight hours on the 5D Mark III and 24-105 with little fatigue. I also recommend the Flycam and Glidecam, but the Steadicam Jr. or Merlin is the way to go if you plan on shooting all day and don't want a vest or brace.

Two points:

Add a vote for the black rapid strap.

My hood stays on all the time, for handheld wildlife photography and casual dog walking (dog leash on one side of black rapid 1dx and lens on other). I find that it protects the front element of the lens better than anything. I very rarely use the canon lens cover. Without the hood people are always wanting to feel the front glass.

Oh yeah I also put black gaffer tape on the lip of the hood so I can rest camera and lens on surfaces without worrying about abrasion. Lint tape help to clean the hood if it picks up white nasties.

fatmanmedi said:

if the lens was really cheap I would send it off to pimp your cam and have it repainted.

http://www.pimpyourcam.com/pimpyourcam_galerie.html

some very cool stuff there.

fats

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Those yellow Nikon's are WACK bro! I would love that, although I figure it's an even bigger target for theft from those people that steal.

distant.star said:

.
Perhaps when a boat is more than a boat??

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Uh something does not seem quite right here.

Re: Cinema EOS C200 & C400 at NAB? [CR1]

Tugela said:

mkabi said:

But, you're not helping your case... already mentioned. The RED One and Red Epic has been around a lot longer than 2011. See my previous post.

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My case is that the high end consumer videographer is ready for 4K, especially once they see what those cameras actually put out.....and yes it is happening right now. It is not just my opinion. When I read some of the comments on this forum I am left wondering if many here really know what is going on in the video side of cameras. The counter case is that no, people who spend $2k or more on their cameras don't want 4K and are content with 1080p. I call BS on that, and to be quite honest, I am shocked that people on this forum would even think that.

The real argument to make, is that professionals who take on paying projects don't see a demand for more than 1080p, and consequently don't feel the need to upgrade to 4K. BUT, that is completely irrelevant to the high end amateur market, who want to produce the highest quality they can display and are not being paid for it. For them, the only client is themselves and their own eyes.

How long the Red cameras have been around is irrelevant to that.

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Just say those 2 lines... you don't need to convolute it with so many words.

In fact, you can say high end consumer/amateur market is ready for 28K... if they can afford it, no?

Today is the last day for this rebate period on the Pro-100. It seems to be pretty regularly renewed. Do we think the same will be true this time?

I'm currently printing with an MG6220. The reproduction of detail is pretty good but no matter what I do the color reproduction is lousy - lots of a greenish brown overtone in most portraits. I'm assuming the Pro-100 would be a lot better? I'm more interested in the printer for quality and color accuracy than I am with the wide format nature of the printer.

Thanks everyone,

Christian

ksagomonyants said:

Hi, thanks for your message. I did go to the Apple store, showed the tech guys the same pictures I posted here. They said it's logic board/graphic card failure (I hope I understood them correctly). I told them about this thread and the one on the apple.com website. They said they never heard about this issue with early 2011 models. The funny thing was they said, well you know people say all different kind of stuff on forums

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No matter what, there will always be a small percentage of laptops whose GPUs fail because of solder ball failure. Keeping that number low is certainly a goal, but it is impossible to make the number be zero, given the temperature extremes involved. Assuming Apple has maintained the 70/30 laptop/desktop split that they've talked about in the past, then Apple sold somewhere around 12 million laptops in FY2011. 1,000 failures is less than one hundredth of one percent. If the failure rate really is at that order of magnitude, I wouldn't expect any sort of recall, because it's likely a fluke caused by inconsistent manufacturing.

With that said, assuming everyone who signed that petition is, in fact, an affected customer, then a thousand signatures is somewhat alarming. For every person who complains about a problem with a company, statistically speaking, there are usually anywhere from 10–100 affected people who didn't complain, with the average being about a 25:1 ratio. So 1,000 signatures could really mean that there are on the order of 25,000 affected 2011 MacBook Pro laptops that failed just outside of warranty, which is a different story altogether.

ksagomonyants said:

So, I paid $310 to get the new logic board + 8gb RAM, although they said it usually costs ~$500-600. I didn't really care as I'm covered with Squaretrade warranty. I picked up the laptop today, so far it's working fine.

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For folks who don't have any warranty, the good news is that Apple recalls tend to be retroactive, so if it isn't a fluke, you'll probably get that money back.

For your application having a 1D-IV would be ideal. It's a solid wildlife camera with 1.3x crop factor, great fps, solid build, good ISO performance (only one stop weaker than the 5D-III).

70D has some subtle improvements in image quality over the 7D:
i) More megapixels: 20.2 vs 18.8
ii) Retains Dynamic Range a bit better as ISO is increased
iii) Retains more tonal range as ISO is increased

HOWEVER, the 7D offers a higher fps burst rate and deeper buffer. So if you plan on shooting continuous bursts then 7D will be the more capable camera.

The 5D-III offers at least 1-2 stops higher ISO capability than the other bodies you mentioned. This is handy for wide field Astro-photography or night photography. It also retains dynamic range better than the others as ISO is increased, allowing you to continue shooting where you otherwise might have to call it a day. The 5D-III is also the best for shooting video (with audio monitoring).

ETTL is so misunderstood, and dismissed because of it.

In addition to Neuros point about it depends on the subject, which is very true, it also depends on where the light is in relation to the subject, as a traditional 45º to the side and 45º above the photographer ETTL works very well and consistently, go for side lighting or rim lighting and it can't possibly do what you want automatically.

Check out on their homepagefor details like download and how to install.

Enables the "Legacy mode", so you can trigger flashes NOT sitting on a Canon- body.

FYI.

OK, i've sorted it!

In custom controls, on the AF-ON selection press <Info> then set to manual point selection over register.

Done...

thanks for the help, it got me in the right direction!

(I DL'ed the pdf and searched it... knowing what to search for helped!)

Sporgon said:

This is something that has really annoyed me about the 6D. The answer is 'you can't '.
There has been some discussion on this before and Marsu42 has indicated that Magic Lantern have included it in their software, but that obviously means you must install ML to get the feature.

I see no reason whatsoever for the 'SET' button on the 6D not to be used as a 'back to centre point' button. In my post on this about six months ago I thought it must be a programming error, it's such a daft omission, but now it looks like it's deliberate. Ouch ! I use the toggle a lot on the 5DII and find the 8 way controller on the 6D wholly inferior.

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Thanks a lot Sporgon. That was my suspicion. Unbelievable.

Hi folks.
Just wondering if this could be one of the things the info file the cameras create is for? Nothing else seems to use it?

Cheers Graham.

2 years ago, I bought a second-hand G11. Today even with my 6d, it's still finding a lot of use. From a handy belt camera to a quite capable underwater camera. I still can't imagine myself without one. With good light it is still quite a capable camera, if you know how to use it properly.