Rofflesaurrr said:

There is absolutely no reason the Canon 5D MkIII should not be able to record 1080p @ 60fps. The Digic V has sufficient processing power. 1080/60p would most likely have to be limited to IPB compression though, as ALL-I would require a sustained write speed of about 23MB/sec.

Has anyone taken a look at the Sony a77?

It's a $1400 body with a 24.3MP sensor.
It records 1080/60p/60i/30p/24p and does so with an inferior processor to the 5D3.

It's simply a limitation of firmware. Canon purposely crippled the camera to protect their higher end models (which most considering the 5D3 can't afford anyway). It's not like people in the professional market would stop buying C300s, C500s, and 1DCs if the 5D had more advanced video features. The pros are still going to buy the dedicated cinema cameras for the expandability, advanced manual controls, and I/O features (HD-SDI, XLR, Genlock, Timecode).

And yes, I realize the 5D3 is a photo camera first, but 1080/60p is not something that would handicap, or take away from its photo abilities. It wouldn't even cost extra!

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There is a reason. The 5D is designed to use the hardware encoder in the DIGIC 5 chip, and that encoder does not do H.264 60p. If you want hardware encoding at 60p you need the DIGIC 6 or DIGIC DV 4 chips, which the 5D3 does not have.

Hello folks,

here is my latest slide-show work, showing dancers of 13th PLESOKAZ - international dance festival, annually maintained in Pozega / Croatia.
I used aprox. 900 pictures (post production killed me ) in order to show power of Canon 1Dx.
Thank you all for watching

Mladen Bozickovic
[email protected]
http://1x.com/member/archangel72
http://www.pixoto.com/archangel72
http://www.youtube.com/user/MBozickovic72
http://www.linkedin.com/pub/mladen-bozickovic/49/506/711



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dSqrRh_ZmnA#ws

funkboy said:

Sporgon said:

Perhaps, but I still love steam locomotives !

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Then you'll love this:

Norfolk & Western J 611 is a J-class locomotive built in 1950 in the town where my family has lived for 4 generations. She is the ultimate development of the steam locomotive, having a cruising speed of 110mph with 15 passenger cars. She is also breathtakingly beautiful, the streamlining being part of the key to her speed.

She'd been sitting the in the VA transportation museum since 1995, but a group of concerned citizens have pulled together the money to have her restored to operating condition, starting this month. If all goes according to plan she'll be making the rounds around the eastern USA as part of N&W's 21st century steam program sometime in 2015.

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The Deutsche Bahn Class 44 steam loco has been my favourite steam loco.

Lawliet said:

Halfrack said:

RLPhoto said:

This would have been a shut up and take my money moment until I saw that sync speed.

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Why? Light it with HMI's or LED's and roll with it.

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For HMI - That Arrimax isn't exactly portable, esp. not if you figure in its power supply. Or cheap, they cost much more then the leaf shutter capable alternatives. And thats if you need just one.
And LED? How exactly do you want to put ~200klx on your subject with those? Preferable from a reasonable distance. A superdino suddenly seems tame, and the few dollars for the LS turn out to be a bargain.

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A superdino? I've never seen one before but that looks awesome! And yes, LEDs aren't quite there yet in terms of overpowering the sun.

Jeffrey said:

I have to say that when shooting the Canon 100mm macro lens or the Zeiss Otus lens on my Canon 1D-X, I never pay attention to anything that would indicate perfect focus on the camera for a manual focus lens. Sometimes I will go into live view and zoom in but then leave live view and go back to the viewfinder to make sure the focus is where I want it.

Manual focusing after a while becomes almost second nature and you know when it it right. My success rate increases the more I shoot in manual focus.

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I find the 7D screen is not aggressive enough for good focus. Do you use 1DX standard screen?
Yes I think focus of Otus lenses have a major need for ultra-precise focusing. No one will pay Otus price to sacrifice sharpness with slightly off focus.

ahsanford said:

I'm not a pro, but thought a 24 / 1.4 lens was more aimed at:

• Astro
• Concert/stage photography
• Environmental portraiture
• Reportage

More importantly, I thought landscape guys avoided such lenses for flare and (lack of) sharpness issues.

- A

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Yes, that's correct, although it makes for a really nice landscape lens because it's so sharp when stopped down. Since getting the 24-70II and TS-E 24, I don't use it much for landscape and use it for the purposes you listed above where it excels at all but the astro. The lens has a lot of coma in the corners at f/1.4 and even f/2 which spoils things.

szinski said:

I don't like the current ranking system either.... I don't own a PowerShot but when people see my posts that's what they'll think I have. Call me a forum newbie or whatever, but let me decide what type of camera to display on my profile.

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Just keep posting…someday, you may not have a camera model under your name at all.

szinski said:

Skirball said:

I don't understand what you mean by optical-pulse set of facilities. If you have three 622 you wouldn't use Canon's RT at all, you'd just use the Yongnuo.

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Exactly my point. The 622's will control the 600EX and the 580EX, no need to use Canon's RT at all. Love the 622s, they're cheap, feature-rich, and work very well. Saves me from having to sell the 580EX-II and buy another 600EX-RT.

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And they work with my 430EX and YN565 in TTL, as well as my two YN manual only flashes. The 600s are great, if you have a whole set of 600s, but there's no flexibility.

I also bought mine at the beginning oh this year and Bridge doesn't recognise the right serial number. The first two digits are 10, which should mean that it was produced in October 2013 (at least this chart is true - http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Canon-Lenses/Canon-Lens-Aging.aspx)

I remwmber my first 128 MB card. Big day.

See here:

http://photorumors.com/

Dylan777 said:

mackguyver said:

Eldar said:

That was about as expected. Image quality apparently very good, but it does seem to have AF issues. That may well be Sigmas achilles ... Never the less, I am looking forward to get my hands on it!

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Eldar, the good news is that you will be able to blame the Sigma for out of focus shots - something that's a bit harder to do with your Otus

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Looking through the photos he posted, the out of focus rate is almost 50/50 ???

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He he, I do have problems with getting focus right whenever a light source is involved

omar said:

thanks guys
i'm on a mac
anyone know the quickest easiest way to remove on a mac?
thanks

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http://lmgtfy.com/?q=exif+stripper+mac

Alternatively:

brew install exiftool

Roo said:

Best wishes for today Helen!! From all of your contributions I've seen here you are a great ambassador for Adorama.


Happy Birthday Helen!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a96RZURNtII

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OMG - this is SOOooooooo cool!

"Delighting you always" is what they went with for a slogan as "Delighting you as infrequently as possible" was already taken.

I want this announcement to be something pricey that I don't need. I will then rant for days about how Canon built the wrong pricey thing as it was not the pricey thing I needed.

And then we'll discuss a nuts rumor about how the words 'need' and 'want' mean two different things.

- A

Blasphemy!! Do these testers not comprehend the paramount importance of dynamic range? WTF?!?



Oh, wait…you said they compared cameras, not just the sensors in them. How very DRoll.

Grant Atkinson said:

Hi Nate
When you say it's in Auto, I am assuming you are not meaning the Green square Auto mode? You won't have any control over the AF in that mode.
In AV, TV, M mode, you should be able to switch between the modes by pressing the AF button on the top, back right of your camera body, and then immediately pressing the small, m.Fn button above the shutter, which should cycle you through the different AF areas. You can choose with button or control to use for switching between the modes, in Autofocus menu AF4, AF Area Selection Method. Go into that option and choose whether to use the M.Fn button or the Main Dial.
Hope that helps
cheers
Grant

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Works!
On my 7D I changed it from the quick menu, and here I never bothered to change it and now when I wanted I couldn't make it work. Anyway thank you!

The white 40-STM (and the picture) is not mine, I saw it in the "40 STM" group on Flickr, that I am a member of. My own 40-STM is black, as well as the 100D.

But it's a real Canon product. The white 40 STM is offered in a kit together with a white 100D in Japan. The kit was launched late last year:
http://www.ephotozine.com/article/white-canon-eos-100d-launched-23443

In Europe I have not seen the white 40 STM in stores (separately or in a kit). I do think the white version looks like a "tongue in cheek" statement to a tiny "L" lens, not to be taken too seriously.

neoday2 said:

Since bokeh is the correlation of sensor size, aperture and distance to subject- we should know all these things based on the sensor readout.

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Nope, there's your problem - the camera only knows the distance to the focused object from the af system, everything else is 2d. To any fancy calculations based on distance like bokeh, you'd need to know real 3d information and generate a depth map - probably then you'd be able to simulate different aperture sizes in post, most likely in the small->large direction.

streestandtheatres said:

I bought a 400 5.6 for my 600d and I haven't noticed the lack of IS. OK, I live in a sunny country, but the autofocus on the 600 isn't exactly stellar, nor the iso performance, and I haven't had any problems. I mostly get away with 1/1250-1/1600 at f5.6-7.1 and iso under 800. For me, not having to fuss over zooming makes my life easier, as there are fewer options for composition, which is what I need with quick moving animals. (It's fun for surfing portraits too! 1/1200, 5.6, 400)
I bought the lens second hand for a very good price, too, cheaper than I could buy the Tamron...

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Excellent shots, love the light in the second one!

As long as Canon puts out a 50 prime with IS I agree with the consensus, it doesn't really matter what else is on the market. But, it does need to be f/2 or faster if Canon wants professionals and video people to pick it up. A 50mm f/2.8 IS won't make it into the bag of many who are getting paid to use their camera.

No idea. We have a lot of ants around here, I live in a bush area. I'm diabetic so used to carry a muesli bar in my bag so maybe that attracted them. It was sealed in it's packet though and I have never had ants around any of the other snacks I have secreted around the place.

I think I have evicted most of them as I haven't spotted any for a while now - I sat with my wife's point and shoot to get the video craved by earlier posters and failed to see any.

Given that I only ever saw them externally on the camera or in the viewfinder I guess it does speak well for the weather sealing. No ants ever made it into the main part of the camera despite nesting next door.

One more at 2.8. Same shutter and ISO as the others.

LensTip has posted their Review and it is a glowing one. I consider them to be some of the toughest reviewers (check out their 50L or Nikon 58mm reviews for example) so this is quite an endorsement for the new Sigma.

Here's what they had to say:

Summary

Pros:

stylish casing of good quality,
sensational image quality in the frame centre,
very good image quality on the edge of the frame,
slight longitudinal chromatic aberration,
excellent correction of lateral chromatic aberration,
lowest distortion level in this class of equipment,
good correction of spherical aberration,
moderate astigmatism,
silent and quick autofocus in most of cases,
nice appearance of defocused images,
rich accessory kit,
excellent price/quality ratio.

Cons:

problems with autofocus when the lens is attached to the Canon 1 Ds MkIII,
coma level in the corners of full frame could have been lower.

The list of advantages of the tested Sigma is really impressive; add to it the fact that it can compete on equal terms with the Zeiss Otus, a device four times as expensive, and in some categories (e.g. sharpness on the frame edge, lateral chromatic aberration, distortion or vignetting) it even prevails over it. Those arguments are so strong that we didn’t have any qualms about giving the Sigma our “Editors Choice Award” badge, even though it had a slight coma slip-up during our test and its autofocus performance on the EOS 1 Ds MkIII was patchy.

whosjk said:

I will be shooting interior and exterior shots with a 70D and 10-22mm lens in a couple of days. I used to shoot real estate photography almost a decade ago - I haven't touched a Canon since. I'm trying to prep myself on the 70D which I just got my hands on literally an hour ago. I have the 10-22mm for real estate shots and the 24-105L for everything else including the video i'll need to be taking.

What is the suggested Program setting (Av, P, M, etc.) to shoot these type of real estate shots? I need a full, sharp photo across the entire image. All shots will be on a tripod with good lighting throughout.

Suggested aperture?
Suggested AF mode? AF area selection mode? Or is it best to manually focus when shooting real estate?

Any other suggestions that will help me produce quality shots?

Thank you in advance for your opinions!

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Not much has changed in RE photography since you did it 10 years ago. The biggest thing that has changed is the industry, there’s a dichotomy between Run n Gun and “architectural photography” that pride themselves on producing quality images. Both have their niche, but I can’t really speak to the former.

Shoot in full manual, right down to the AF. f/8 if you can get away with it, but bump it up if needed to get everything in focus. Shooting ultrawide it’s usually not too much of an issue. Some people love HDR, other lighting. Myself the latter, but I always take a set of HDR for backup/post work. Don’t do it in-camera. I’d shoot at ISO 400ish to lessen the load on my flashes except for the HDR shots (ISO 100). My final image is usually a composite of an HDR (lightly done, in Photomatix – I wouldn’t use in-camera), blended in manually with a properly exposed and lit shot, and I usually do some hand touch-up lightening areas with a high-key shot. But it’s a time consuming process. I know people who drop the tripod, in-camera HDR, DL to Lightroom (now on iPad) and they’re off to the next room before I even have my lights setup. It works for them, just not work I care for. YMMV.