Posts

Bolt · May 10, 2013

This is why we all need a Pentax K5. Still the best made camera [in terms of build quality] in my honest opinion.

Chewngum · May 9, 2013

dwterry said:
I just have to comment. I swear I have NOT found the "perfect" system yet. Each one comes so close ... and then misses it.

I jumped on the RadioPopper bandwagon when they first came out. I used the PW TT5 system for several years. And about 6 months ago switched to the Canon 600s with with the ST-E3 remote.

My very most favorite thing about the PW was the AC3 Zone controller. With REAL/PHYSICAL switches and dials I could adjust settings without even looking at it. A bride could be walking down the aisle and I would have one set of lights flashing, then as she passed me I could switch to a different set of lights by quickly turning one switch off and another on. I barely had to take the camera away from my face long enough to flip the switches and then resume.

The downside to TT5 is the stupid RF interference with the Canon 580EXII flashes. I had 5 of those, all with socks on them and still had issues of flashes sometimes being too far to fire reliably (at just 20-30 feet!).

I love the reliability of the Canon 600s. I love that I have 5 groups to play with. I love that it works essentially the same way as the AC3 Zone Controller (being able to turn individual lights on or off, ettl or manual, etc).

What I _hate_ is that there are far too many button presses and dial turns to accomplish a single task.

Turn a light off:
AC3: flip a switch (often without even looking)
ST-E3: put remote down below me where I can see it (old eyes aren't helping), push a button, rotate dial to appropriate group, toggle off

Change the power setting is the same:
AC3: return a dial (often without even looking)
ST-E3: put remote down below me where I can see it, push a button, rotate dial to appropriate group, push a button, rotate dial to desired power level

Too many button presses and dial turns - all of which require that I watch the screen while I'm doing it because all of the buttons are "context sensitive" (meaning they change what they do based on what is on screen at the time).

I would PAY EXTRA MONEY to get a remote that let me control my lights with physical buttons and dials like the AC3 Zone Controller.

Please pass the word along to Canon.

Try out the Yongnuo YN622C then. I have 5 transceivers and after putting complete faith in them for a number of jobs they've never let me down. I haven't tested beyond 30m but have mixed and matched the flashes between the 550Ex, 580EX, 580EXII and 600EX with no change. They have physical buttons, Hotshoe passthrough, AF assist beam, batteries last a lonng time, they are reliable, HSS is not problem, can be controlled entirely in camera if you want, etc etc. You could put the flashes down the aisle and press the group button by touch to change the channel as the bride moves. These things are absolutely fantastic. You can customise lots of functions too like remote flash zoom, mixing of ETTL and manual metering, PC Sync port built in and link lights blink on metering start. The RT system is amazing but very expensive and still limited more than the YN622C. I thoroughly recommended anyone doing remote ETTL to research and buys these....you won't look regret it!

jrista · May 9, 2013

Canon Rumors said:
Shooting assist functions suitable for tilt lens

Rotate display grid lines

The angle information of the tilt lens to determine the angle of the grid lines

To align in the direction of change of focus, the angle of the grating lines, easy to compose the picture

Now that sounds AWESOME. Can't wait for this!

jrista · May 9, 2013

Canon-F1 said:
so much about what a CR2 rating is worth. :

Hmm...only CR3 means "just about fact". A CR2 rumor only means it was a relatively good rumor from a known source. Good rumors are still just rumors. A CR1 means a "take it with a big doze of salt, came from a new/unknown source" type rumor, which are more likely to be wrong than a CR2. Neither CR2 nor CR1 should ever be taken as "This most likely WILL happen"...that honor is only reserved for CR3.

If this had been a CR3, then we would have had to seriously question the rating system, but seeing as it was a CR2, well...it WAS A RUMOR!

TWI by Dustin Abbott · May 9, 2013

jimjamesjimmy said:
TWI by Dustin Abbott said:

I have shot enough in Arizona, USA and Southern Israel (similar harsh light during midday and dust in the air) to know that if you don't shoot at the right times of day, you WILL get harsh, flat images. Filters help, but it's a battle, even in post processing.

That dust in the air becomes a major advantage in the morning and particularly in the evening, however, producing amazing sunsets unrivaled in other environments. It's difficult when you can't control the time of day you shoot, because I think you will find that the really stunning pictures of the pyramids were almost certainly not taken at the time of day that you were shooting.

Click to expand...

its interesting doing a quick search on google of pyramid images, most are pretty average, and alot have what ibelieve to be skys added into them in post processing.

I wouldn't be surprised if that is in fact the case.

MichaelHodges · May 9, 2013

Albi86 said:
There's a 400/5.6 prime too, and they probably wouldn't cannibalize it.

Why would it matter if they still buy a Canon lens in the end?

------------------

http://michaelhodgesfiction.com/

LOALTD · May 9, 2013

I know I’m in the minority, but I find the dual memory slots to usually be more hassle than they are worth.

The ONE THING that would make them useful to me, is the ability to segregate stills and video to different cards. It seems like a simple firmware update could do this? Even the old D7000 has this functionality.

Can the Mk III do this and I’m just not able to find it? Seems like a really silly omission.

rihanishtiaq · May 9, 2013

Yes! you are totally right. I use a UV filter..
Thanks for the info.. next time i will get rid of it when shooting into the sun

bvukich · May 9, 2013

omar said:
@neuroanatomist that is awesome
not sure why i didn't find myself

problem: canon original, i am getting a best price of £110. non canon, i can get for £9
which one do i go for? what would u recommend?

thanks

I've looked at 3rd party ones, and have yet to find one with even remotely favorable reviews. I'm all in favor of 3rd party for small accessories that Canon usually charges a ton for, but this is one where I haven't found a suitable replacement for OEM.

moocowe · May 9, 2013

dumdumkc said:
1, The focus dots will suddenly blink in red with out touching any button. Just like you are moving the camera around and suddenly it will blink with no reason. (I am on auto focus mode) happens once a while.

This was annoying me too, until I realised the focus points blink when the camera changes orientation if you have it set up to use different points for portrait and landscape.

sunnyVan · May 9, 2013

Maybe I'll wait for the holidays then. I'm trying to get my hands on the 135L. Checked Canon refurbished but always out of stock. Don't really like buy used even though I haven't had any unpleasant experience so far.

Quasimodo · May 9, 2013

Thanks for the link. Interesting interview and cool video, no matter if he uses a Canon camera for his job or not

jaayres20 · May 9, 2013

Northstar said:
jaayres20 said:

Things have really changed since I started this post a few months ago. I was very frustrated at the time and not I couldn't be more satisfied. I just used both of my 5D3s at a wedding last Saturday and they both have the firmware update. I shot 2,700 pictures with at least 1000 being in a very dark fast moving reception and I nailed just about every shot I took. There is a huge difference in the focus speed with the AF assist beam now. It once caused the focus to slow way down and now it speeds it up drastically. My 50mm 1.2 used to say in my bag because it would simply not focus in the dark. I used the heck out of it and shot at 1.2 most of the time with most being keepers. When I use the 24-70 f/2.8L II, I feel like I am cheating because it focuses on whatever I want instantly. I am very happy!

Click to expand...

good to hear....i haven't done the update yet and have been waiting to see if anybody was having problems after updating....sounds like you're saying "go ahead and update" right?

I would update immediately. Especially if you use the AF assist beam at all.

siabod · May 9, 2013

Some months have passed but I purchased my 5D Mk111 in March 2013 and have experienced the same problem as the original poster, takes a few shots then freezes as though it does not recognize the lens, focus away from the subject (takes 3 - 6 attempts) then works for a short while.

Harry Muff · May 9, 2013

Hasn't there been a tear down yet of the two cameras? ifixit are famed for stripping down every new gadget, why don't they give it a go?

funkboy · May 9, 2013

http://www.theverge.com/2013/5/8/4311868/the-illusion-of-simplicity-photographer-peter-belanger-on-shooting

Great article.

All I need to say is

.

dslrdummy · May 9, 2013

eml58 said:
I use both, Lexar Professional 1000x (128GB) & Sandisk 100MB/s (128 GB) in my 1Dx & 5DMK3.

You will find the Lexar Pro range 1000x read/write @ 150MB/s in 128/64 & 32 Ranges, compared to the San Disk Extreme Pro where the 128GB cards operate @ 100MB/s & the 64 & 32 operate @ 90MB/s.

In practise I cant say I notice the difference, I shoot wildlife, frequently @ 12FPS on the 1Dx, and having taken 10 to 15 shots & 12FPS I haven't found the buffer an issue with the Lexar Cards.

The Lexar Cards are more expensive by quite a bit compared to the SanDisk, I use the Lexar 128GB 1000x as the primary card, and the SanDisk 128GB card as the second card on the 1Dx, and on the 5DMK3 the CF Card is 128GB Lexar 1000x and the SD card is SanDisk 64GB 90 MB/s.

I did find when i recently switched to the Lexar Cards & purchased 4 128GB Cards (2 x 1Dx & 2 5DMK3 bodies), that I had to return for replacement one of the Lexar Cards, it was a Dud, have never had that problem with SaDisk, but both the Lexar & SanDisk Cards work just fine.

Excuse my ignorance, but when you refer to primary/secondary cards, do you mean you only use the secondary when/if the primary card is full or write Raw to one and jpeg to the other? I had assumed that when shooting anything in fast continuous such as wildlife the write rate is important so you wouldn't want to slow things down by writing to both cards. Thanks in advance.

alexturton · May 9, 2013

I'm going to an owl flying display next week with my 5d3 and 70-200 2.8 ii.
They will be reasonably close so I don't need anything longer than 200mm.

I need some help/advice on what settings to use, particularly the af settings.

It will be under tree cover with mixed lighting so raw Is a must. I was thinking keep the aperture between 2.8 and 5.6 and aim for a shutter of around 1/1000 to freeze them in flight.

The owls will be flying side to side and straight at me.

Any ideas for the af settings or anything else I should consider?

Thanks in advance.

Dylan777 · May 9, 2013

@ OP -- where is Canon RX1?

Simba · May 8, 2013

TWI by Dustin Abbott said:
bereninga said:

I wonder what the nominees were. I'm surprised the 6D topped the 5DIII and D800.

Click to expand...

I think they fell in the previous year. MKIII received best Video DSLR and D800 received best expert DSLR

This kind of award is like Car of the Year in Motor Trend or Car and Driver magazine, which is granted for new year model only. Basically each company takes turn to win.

photo212 · May 8, 2013

Seems the delete function does one card, and depending on your setting, the data from the other card can automatically be copied to the blank card. Frustrating if you do not realize that is happening.

Formatting the cards gives you the choice of which card to format. You'll have to do it on both cards AFAIK

May 8, 2013

Yes, this had already entered my mind. I had decided on a Gitzo a while back--it has been in my wish list for a while. But thanks to reading YOUR posts NEURO, and others posts about tripods i have been also thinking about the RRS. You're definitely correct about it being the last one i will purchase. I blame you for putting me in a quandary

. And thanks for keeping me from making a rash decision. I have a while before the sale ends. :-\

neuroanatomist said:
yogi said:

I have been trying to decide between Gitzo or RRS tripods. This might influence my decision.

Click to expand...

If you buy either, it's quite possibly the last tripod you'll ever buy. Even if you only keep it 3 years (and I'd say that's really unlikely!), that $150 works out to less than a Starbucks mocha per month. So I'd say pick the tripod you really want, without consideration for the rebate. OTOH, if you've already decided on a Gitzo, now's the time to buy!

lenstrack26 · May 8, 2013

Hi Expatinasia,
Good question. I'm referring to landscapes in which I'm shooting a lot of bracketed images for HDRs. I feel a tripod is mandatory. (For example a shaded waterfall with a brilliant sky). On a single hike, I can encounter subjects that require a telephoto (100-400 mm), or midrange (24-105 mm) or extreme wide angle (14 mm). I could probably hand-hold these lenses if it were not for the need for bracketing. Even without a tripod, carrying multiple bodies (in a convenient and comfortable and secure system) would make life easier!

May 8, 2013

bornshooter said:
ChilledXpress said:

Love the Sigma 15mm DG EX rect. fisheye.... all on 5D3s and produces a 180 diagonal FOV. I'm an admitted fisheye addict I bought a new one for 550$US and a used one for UW work for 350$US both are quite sharp and did better than the 8-15L @ 15mm.

Click to expand...

fantastic shots just what im looking for

Thanks, hope it helps...

bseitz234 · May 8, 2013

pensive tomato said:
I know you're asking about lenses, but how are you doing about lighting? You mentioned your 580exii, but portraiture is one that usually calls for more complex set-ups. We all know pictures are made or break by their light.

TL;DR summary: Lots of options, depends on your style and what you want to prioritize.

I agree with this. I'd say at least one more speedlite to be used off-camera would be huge. That probably also means getting a light stand, umbrella, some flash gels... the works. At least for formals.

As far as lenses go, a 100L is good for ring shots and other details. Other than that, while it does make a very nice portrait lens, it won't do anything your 70-200 won't (although it will be a bit sharper). The 135 is bokehlicious for portraits, and some other fast primes (even without spending on L lenses, like 50 1.4 or the sigma 30 1.4) could be useful for low-light situations.

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