AlanF said:

Canon refuses to send me the part, says the whole top cover will have to be placed, and I'll have to send the camera for it to be repaired under warranty. They don't have the "mode dial cap" listed as a separate part. I can get one on line for £19 and am tempted to buy one to save the hassle of posting the 5D.

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That's a bummer. I'm not sure why you can get one online, is it from Hong Kong? Apparently the dial is permanently attached to the top cover, so if they don't stock the cap, I'd be tempted to buy one elsewhere as well.
Try one of the authorized repair places in the UK. If there is one close, you might be able to drive there.

justsomedude said:

Also, check the post just a couple topics down from this one if you want to review some of the science behind both AF systems. According to Roger Cicala, the standard deviation performance of the 7D was the worst of all Canon bodies he tested (tied with the T3i). As for the 5D3... well... it was the best: http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2012/08/autofocus-reality-part-3b-canon-cameras#more-8458

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well i like roger.. but he has tested with one lens (28mm IS) and no tracking.
so you can´t say much about the overall AF perfomance from that test.

sure the 5D MK3 AF is better.. well it´s newer and the camera cost twice as much, so it better is.

and at the end he says something important:

Otherwise I might have put my trusty old 85mm f/1.8 on a 5D III and thought “not better at all, they’re lying to me again.”

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YuengLinger said:

"But The Most important thing that the Good Photographer must know how to use the FLASHES and THE LIGHTS to Support and Enhance the Photos"

+1

Often overlooked!

Also, overcast days with reflectors and/or the right poses (faces upwards).

Any time of day in good light/shade transition spots (and hopefully with a reflector).

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Yes + 1 for me too, Dear Mr. YuengLinger
Yes, Most of us/ Photographers, We do not the choice to select the best time of the day. That All of the PRO, use the portable shade and reflectors to control the light, and the external light to provide the best light. Yes, My Dear Dad teach me that---The Difference of two people, The Smart one and Normal one----The Normal People can Use the Chicken meat to cook and Create The Great Meal, But the Smart People can use the Chicken Sh-t to make a great meal too. Yes, The Great Photographers can adapt and shoot at any place and any times and get the Best photos in that situation.
Nice to talk to you, Sir.
Surapon

ME said:

Thanks Surapon! A great idea. I got many laughs from these.

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You are welcome, Dear Mr. Me.
A bout time that you post the Funny Photos of the PRO , for us to see and Laugh too.
Thanks.
Surapon

paul13walnut5 said:

What about a bit of vertical and flipping? Done a little perspective correction and grid alignment, with some selective reduction in saturation?

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That does look strange

I'm not bothered about other peoples opinions in regard to my photography. I take photographs because I see something worth saving so it can be revisited time and time again.

I'm perfectly able to be critical of my photographs. Only I know what it was in the shot that made me want to capture it. If I succeeded I'll be content, if not I'll try again till I get it right.

hgraf said:

FWIW our little one came a couple days earlier then I expected. I intended to pick up an 85/1.8, but wasn't able to pick one up in time.

So, I shot with my 50/1.8 on both my crop body and an old film camera. It delivered exactly what I was looking for (well, I don't quite yet know with the film camera, haven't developed the film yet!). 85mm would most certainly have been too tight for the situations I was in, and 35/28 would have been good, but I think the 50 was the perfect balance for what I was interested in.

Thanks to all for the advice! For now I'm a little busy, but I think I'll still pick up the 85/1.8 eventually, the thinner DOF over the 50/1.8 really appeals to me!

TTYL

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Congratulations!!! +1. While using an APS-C, I find the 50mm F1.8 quite good for portraits and 85mm F1.8 quite long especially indoors. You'll find a 24mm to 35mm focal length good for full body shots though that's why most suggested a 28mm or a 35mm. Have fun!

Very nice bokehlicious statue portraits. If I may suggest though, you may want a deeper DOF done in the waning hours in the afternoon or early waking hours in the morning. Who knows, you might get some ghosts or two... It might be quite interesting to see a different perspective on these statues. Hmmm... I think I'll shoot some in our local cemeteries once I'm back in my rural province area. Thank you for triggering some ideas in me.

Recently I also have the issue of Sigma 18-35mm lens cannot produce sharp image with my Canon 70D. I also try to perform the micro adjustment in the camera itself but still not very happy with the result might be due to the camera micro adjustment only have two setting per lens (W or T) therefore in some situation the output picture still not sharp enough. Until I purchased the Sigma USB dock to perform the micro adjustment now i am happy with the output for the lens

The USB dock allow you to adjust your lens with different focus length (if your lens is a zoom lens) and also based on the object distance away from the camera. You can see the image below showing the before (top portion) and after (bottom portion) effect of the fine tuning.

I had attached two jpg file, one is the before & after of the fine tune result and the other is the fine tune setting using the Sigma application with the USB dock. You can see the difference between the before and after fine tune really have a lot of difference in term of its sharpness. Hope this will help those who face the same issue as me.

Sella174 said:

mackguyver said:

... I found the whole thing mocking instead of funny.

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I found that the "press release" captured the essence of why I haven't "upgraded" my current Canon EOS bodies ... Canon is on the one hand simply recycling the same old stuff (e.g. the EOS 700D), and on the other hand not pushing "innovation" down to "traditional" photographers (e.g. the on-chip AF of the 70D is useless if your technique is through the viewfinder).

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Of course, IMO, that's something of an unfair criticism. Like most traditional photographers, I take more than 99% of my shots through the viewfinder, but for the occasional shot where I do use live view—whether because I'm using extenders with a slow lens, holding the camera over my head to get a better angle, using a rain hood, or whatever—I find that there are no words for how much the focusing speed sucks.

Sure, that feature isn't at all critical, and I certainly wouldn't trade other features for it, but I definitely wouldn't complain if it found its way into every camera in Canon's lineup, just as long as there are other significant sensor improvements along with it.

I couldn't wait for the review so I just purchased it for the wife .. I tried it on my 70d for a couple of shots and I liked it .. I know she will also like it ... I then sold the 55-250 mkll which I purchased wright after I got the wife a SL1 ........ just then they announced the 55-250 STM ........

Avatars have always been allowed, they are resized to 65 X 65. Its always better to resize them yourself rather than letting forum software mess them up.

Pi said:

I do not quite agree with the author. Lies or made up "facts" are not what I consider BS even though some of them are. The most sophisticated BS is when somebody presents arguments ... which are BS. It is not like they are not telling you how they "know" what they "know", they do. But it is BS.

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I am with you regarding the presentation of arguments. As long as a poster brings arguments, even if these turn out to be wrong, at least the poster is trying to be constructive. As such I don't consider what is presented as BS, even if it is totally misguided nonsense. We cannot expect anyone posting here to have a background allowing the person to see through marketing slogans or technical details or engineering processes or the like.

lastcoyote said:

Viggo said:

I have owned 30 lenses on 4 afma enabled bodies, all of them calibrated properly with Canon and it's only ONE lens that needed no afma and that was one of the three copies of the 50 L, but I write that off as pure luck. All lenses to all bodies should be calibrated through Reikan Focal or other equally good methods. I don't believe that one can own 8 lenses and two bodies and no afma needed. There's a difference between good enough and optimal and everyone is different in how much they see or care about it.

If you only shoot stopped down and never larger than f4 I can understand the statement, but f2.0 and bigger will show it. My 200 f2.0 is calibrated at the same place as my 1d, and it needed +4 and the difference is highly noticeable. It's sharp at 0 also, but mindblowing at +4.

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actually i totally agree with you here.
people are different on what they consider 'good enough'. as i mentioned before out of the box i considered my 70-200 f/2.8L IS II to need little or no AFMA. if I hadn't been playing around with AFMA yesterday I'd of considered it needed no adjustment. but just a bit of testing and tweaking showed that actually you can get even better results.

i should really spend time to properly callibrate all my lenses even though i'm more than happy with how they perform now.

viggo it sounds like you send your lenses to a canon service center to be professionally calibrated. do you always send your body along with the lens? and does it always come back performing perfectly?

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I rarely send my lenses for calibration, but I do send my bodies. In my experience the bodies can get quite a bit more accurate with a calibration and that also makes the lenses hit better. But if I service a lens for something else I ask them to adjust focus also. They always come back better for sure, but I always run them through Focal and do afma myself.

privatebydesign said:

Viggo said:

Hmm, anyone have a link to that "spider-webbing" ? That just sounds like what I saw in my 200...

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Many types of advanced fungus have a stringy spiderwebish type look and is a certain differentiator between bad dust and fungus.

https://www.google.com/search?q=lens+fungus&client=firefox-a&hs=SkD&rls=org.mozilla:en-USfficial&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=lZxoUu_PKoahkQfrwICIAQ&ved=0CCsQsAQ&biw=1265&bih=681

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Thanks ! That is def not what I see on the 200, it's like it's around the edges so that the whole element is displaying some weird pattern along the edges.

Wow! Stacking of hand held images (especially with a long macro) requires a very steady hand and a good technique.

How many images did you stack?

Don't buy from digitalrev, thier "no questions asked" return policy is anything but that.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=17132.msg317090#msg317090

MonteGraham said:

BlackRapids RS-7 on 5DIII/70-200 2.8IS with or without battery grip? Pros and Cons?

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No problem what so ever! I have been walking with the 5D II gripped or with my 1Ds III with a 200/2L without any concern. Just today I was taking shots with the 5DII and the 70-200L II. The RS-7 is very strong.

Marsu42 said:

Afaik as far as the warranty is concerned it matters how "visible" the pixels are, i.e. are they near the center and are they dead/black or hot/bright. If there's a hot pixel cluster in the center your chances are good you can replace the item ... let me know if I'm wrong here.

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where the defective pixels are located is not important.
but the type of defect is.

old
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_13406-2

new
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_9241#ISO-9241-302.2C_303.2C_305.2C_307:2008_pixel_defects

if they exchange a monitor depends a lot on the company.

Nice pic ... but the expression of the Moose looks like they are about to make out
BTW, I saw your pics on pbase ... I like the one with the Red Fox running away with an old shoe ... nice!

pensive tomato said:

CarlTN said:

Which speedlite do you use? I would like to buy a cheap one that can still do everything. Do you have thoughts on the Yongnuo 568?

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I use the Canon RT system which works great and it's very flexible. One limitation is the cost, although rebates and refurbished units can make them easier on the wallet. There are cheaper options (the Yongnuo units included), but I don't have experience with them. Plenty of people around here at CR can give you feedback about their reliability and features.

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I've read some of it, and thank you for getting back to me. I can always borrow a Canon 580 from my cousin, but would be nice to have my own.

Thank you for the advises and opinions.

bigmag13, I don't mind shooting with single card cameras, all my previous cameras had only one card and fortunately I never had a problem. I realize one card failure is already too many, and I think that having two cards is an advantage, but for me it's not a buy or don't buy point (maybe if shooting single camera). I always always shoot with two bodies, what gives me a kind of redundant system: if one card happens to fail I don't lose everything (I also shoot with small cards).

With the rest I agree, but I think I can work my way around those weaknesses on the 6D.

RustyTheGeek, I think your bottom line is also my bottom line: do the best with what you can afford at the moment. And my business doesn't allow two 5D3's, which would be my choice, but allows two 6D's.

I value having two similar cameras, that is what I always desired when shooting with the 5D2 and 7D, because they weren't: the 7D wasn't usable above ISO 1600 and I ended up shooting interiors with only one camera, having to change lenses, etc etc etc. I like to have two of the same kind.

Since you have both, RustyTheGeek, in your view what are the 6D's weaknesses? I might say 1/4000 max. shutter speed is the only relevant one (when shooting wide open with f1.8 lenses). And about the AF, the outer points are the same as 5D2 or better?

paul13walnut5 said:

leGreve said:

So you shoot a c100 clip.... And then you upload it as 360p?

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Thats almost as buying a 4K camera to output in 1080!

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Yeah.... well... from my understanding... The Red is a bit on the unforgiving side. If you're off the mark in terms of follow focus by even a quarter inch, the 4K material looks 1080p.

And, since none us owns a 4K TV, you have to downgrade the 4K down to 1080p... then there is the compression that YouTube and other online video streamers do.... all in all... is it worth it, unless you're putting it in theatres?

Did I mention... The editing bit... the monstrous amounts of information.... its ridiculous...

Following on from the blurred foreground in the 135 thread, here are some similar with the 300 f/2.8.


Flemen Response by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Goat through the Undergrowth by Kernuak (avalonlightphotoart.co.uk), on Flickr

Keep mine as well. All boxes and paperwork are packed up in plastic bin in the basement.

I look at it from a buyer's perspective: picking up a mint FD lens in its original packing can be quite thrilling. I've gone so far and bought original catalogs and manuals off ebay for stuff that I own and care about (camera gear, guitar stuff, audio stuff, microscopes, etc). No, I do have a life otherwise. Not to worry.