thanks for the comments all. Very kind, and by the way.....in the last shot.......ladies Billingham bag on her shoulder you reckon?

Anybody knows if Canon + phone manufacturer collaboration? I'd be happy to have a smartphone with 1/1.7 camera sensor, full manual exposure, 3X to 5X zoom and shoots RAW. That'd be awesome. I just hope they'll be able to maintain the size of an IPhone (though I don't mind the size of a Samsung Note). S120 + IPhone features? Possible?

I can vouch for the magic of the 200 f/2~

Lawliet said:

for a:b both are metered seperately to find out how much power each has to provide to get the desired lighting ratio.

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Interesting, in that case it's even more strange Canon doesn't allow three independent a-b-c groups with independent fec for the optical legacy system if they do 3 preflashes anyway...

privatebydesign said:

You can select HSS and ETTL in pre 2012 bodies, it just is nowhere near as consistent as non HSS ETTL, I get regular +/- 2/3 exposure variation across HSS + ETTL use where as for same framed images ETTL by itself is very consistent.

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That's very valuable information, I might be experiencing the same thing with the 60d - though it's hard to pin down where the problem is, but I'll keep watching for it if I do optical (I still have a 430ex2) vs. rt.

privatebydesign said:

I am just very glad they left us the ability to actually select our standard sync speed with the RT system on the pre 2012 bodies.

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Yes, somehow doesn't sound like them

Lawliet said:

There just might be some weirdness gremlins be lurking in there.???

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Like marketing gremlins :-> ? ... but ok, there really might be hardware contraints due to the amount of preflashes, but even if not Canon almost never backports such features anyway. I still think optical fallback with a 2 or 3 group constraint would have been possible to keep on using optical flashes while rt are linked via radio at the same time.

petach said:

Thanks, was north of southward bridge right over the blackfriars underpass in city of London.

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I guess I will need to wait till I cross the pond again

Not sure about guys/gals demeanour when they keep on being harassed. Are their fly's open or something? or knuckle dragging? Since I started street shooting in 2011....I have been stopped once. A guy came up to me and said "You just take a shot of me"? I said "Why would I when then is much more interesting material around"? It deflated him. But seriously....I cannot understand how people get harassed constantly. I think maybe look inwards to see what it may be about.... rather than outwards? I don't mean to be unkind.....but get my drift?

Look at Bruce Gilden and his very aggressive approach.....how many times has he been battered? once...twice maybe.

Ohh yeah it is from canon and legit. Not from a offsite. They screwed up a repair 4 times over and ruined a few small jobs and an event.

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ah i see. what luck! though it sounds like you had to earn it with some grief.

sry for being such a downer earlier...i'd rather play devil's advocate to help someone avoid getting screwed though. there has always been so much scam in the photo equipment business that when it sounds too good to be true then it most certainly is.

shame you couldn't pull the trigger on everything though. at those prices you could have sold a few of the peices and probably gotten what you wanted for essentially free.

(Part 2)

Yodobashi (and Bic) will have pretty much all brands, (current) models, new lenses, etc. This includes mirror-less and compact cameras. They also have filters, bags, tripods, etc. (Yodobashi seems to carry more stock than Bic).

If you are looking for DSLR lenses, there is a "camera outlet center" in the underground level of JR Osaka Station. (I'm sorry I don't know the name off-hand, but I will check next time I head into Osaka). They have most Canon lenses "new" (I haven't seen any of the super-telphotos there, but pretty much all the more common focal lengths, tilt-shift, etc.). The prices are competitive with the big camera stores, and they have a fairly large selection of used lenses. (My own experience: I did not find the savings on the used lenses compelling and wound up paying a little more for new versions of the lenses. However, if you are buying multiple lenses, it might make enough of a difference). This store also sells used camera bodies (digital AND a huge stock of old film SLRs).

That camera outlet center is not the place to go for mirrorless cameras though--they sell a few kits, but at least the last time I was there they didn't have many lenses (new or used) for any of the systems.

Some of the old guide-books might talk about used camera shops in "Den-Den Town" (another part of Osaka). However, over the last few years all the camera shops in Den-Den Town have closed and it has become an anime / manga zone. If you are interested in anime by all means visit--but don't waste the time going there specifically for camera stuff because there isn't any.

Finally, if you are interested in Nikon, there is a Nikon Outlet Center at the "Sanda Premium Outlets" just north of Kobe. You can do a Google search for "Sanda Premium Outlets" for directions, etc. I only visited once about two years ago, but I wasn't familiar enough with Nikon pricing to draw any conclusions from my visit. It is kind of far from Osaka and Kyoto, though, so I wouldn't make a special trip there unless you are really keen on Nikon.

Hope at least some of this is helpful; please let me know if you have any questions, and I'll see if I can find out the name of that "outlet center" in JR Osaka Station soon.

I am very careful about photographing Muslim women....even in the UK. Not on religious grounds or sensitivity necessarily, but because I don't really want to get into a row in the street. I like to shoot and move on. Whitechapel and its close environs have a large Bangladeshi and other Asian population...predominantly Muslim. The men folk are VERY funny about their ladies being photographed or otherwise interfered with by anyone. Is it worth it? I ain't Bruce Gilden!

rs said:

@!ex said:

If you want something exotic and faster than the canon 50mm 1.2, then look on ebay and find the canon 50mm 1.0L....

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Yep, that's the answer if owning a 50 faster than f1.2 on a Canon DSLR is your quest.

Unless of course you want a very fast 50 macro lens - then the Leica lens on your Canon would be good. The Leica M mount has a flange distance of 27.80mm, and Canon EF is 44.00mm. If someone was to make an optics free mount adapter that was just 1.8mm thick, that and the difference in flange distance would be the equivalent of using an 18mm extension tube. Infinity focus would be far from possible, with the minimum magnification probably somewhere around 0.40x.

If you're determined to use the Leica 50/0.95 on a FF camera other than a Leica, I think you're only option is the Sony NEX-VG900 and an M to E mount adapter. I'd much rather one of the Canon 50L lenses on an EOS body, or a Leica body to mount the Leica lens on.

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Thanks you , Sir, Mr. Rs.
Yes, + 1 for me too, I would like Canon Lens on Canon Camera Body---Because of 99 % - Nothing can go wrong with the connection - except the 1% poor QC. on that Friday late afternoon in the MFG.
I might Look at Canon FD 50 mm. F/ 0.95 + the FD to EF transfer Ring for my EOS body, Plus the 35 mm. Canon Cameras that I have 6 of them in my Dry Boxes.
Thanks again
Surapon

6D +17-40L


Street Hoxton by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Feather Headress Man by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Leo - Hoxton by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Street - Hoxton 310813 by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

ajfotofilmagem said:

Terry Rogers said:

Professionals, please enlighten me. Would not a 24 - 90 2.8 or 28 - 90 2.8 be an "ideal" walk around lens. While I don't shoot full frame, I would imagine a lens of such focal length would be ideal for a general purpose lens given it's 2.8 (as opposed to f4) and is long enough to reach the "ideal" portrait focal length of 85/90mm.

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Technically it is possible to make a 24-90mm F2.8 lens, and it is also possible make a 35-70mm F1.8. : The question is whether the size, weight and price are competitive to sell well, given the other options in the market. A lens 24-90mm F1.8 is the dream of many people, but if costs $ 4000, weighs 3 lbs and is the size of a juice jug, in fact, would be a nightmare to use it. :'( Not everything that can be done must be done.

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In the 90's Canon developed a trial copy of a 24-105mm f2.8 which was apparently very good optically. But it was the size and weight of a 70-200 f2.8 and was viewed a too big and bulky for what it offered by those who tried it. Lets face it for f2.8 gear there is little reason to overlap focal ranges, 24-70 / 70-200/ 300 is the usual split.

cellomaster27 said:

Oh nice! I've always wanted to take pictures up in a balloon!

Only one lens?? well... Just my thoughts: UWA, telephoto and maybe a tilt shift? Depends on the scenery.. You could get some interesting shots of the landscape below.. Making them look miniature? I would take those kind of shots with the TS. Wide general purpose for maybe inside the balloon.. Occupants/self photos. Tele for other balloons and their occupants. And for things far below? If I was forced to take one lens, UWA. Have fun! Oh and wear a strap like a blackrapid. Lol

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Thanks for the advice, especially about the blackrapid strap. I just got a RS-4 (Classic) in the past week, but have not had an opportunity to use it yet. Definitely sounds like this will be a perfect, first-use situation!

Also like the tip from RGF to wear a vest. I don't have a vest or any holsters yet, but will look into that this coming week. Would be nice to have a 17-40 on the camera and a 24-105 or something else on vest/holster. Could also carry a T3i or M as 2nd body.

In europe they sell between 950 - 1100 euro, so 1800 dollar seems way too much.

dmbrown said:

I have a 60D and they won't work in any of the live view settings either. I am not able to control the flash through the camera external flash settings. It says the flash is incompatible. I can shoot fine with a 430ex ii and a Yongnuo YN-560 II, both controlled by the RF-600, but all settings with the flashes are manual. Shouldn't the TTL work with the RF-600?

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With the Yonguno RF-600, you cannot control the flash through the camera, it is meant only to communicate with the receiver to trigger the flash, that's all it can do i.e. you need to manually set the flash output on the flash unit itself.
If you want to control the flash through the camera, you need the newer Yongnuo flash trigger YN-622C (for Canon) or YN-622N (for Nikon).

I had a similar issue that I only noticed on FF. It cost me ~$200 (and 2 trips) to the service center to get it close to 'perfect' (it's still not spot on at 17mm, but OK - I just need to check the focus on the left side).

Just FYI in case you decide you can't live with it.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

They were giving gifts for upgrades to gold or platinum that were worth $100, so its not actually a bad deal. The free cleaning and repair discount will pay for its self the first time its used. However, its not for everyone.

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Oh... I will definitely take advantage of the gold option when I finally deem it time to have my body and lenses cleaned... but I just go through gear SO quickly that it rarely ever gets to that point to where I NEED to have it cleaned in order for it to sell.

So one day... maybe.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Bob Howland said:

neuroanatomist said:

I don't think we'll be seeing STM used in L-series lenses. AF during video is a consumer 'feature' - pro video shooters focus manually (often with a whole host of accessories to facilitate that - looking at a complete dSLR video rig, it can be hard to spot the camera!).

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According to the professor at RIT's Imaging Arts & Sciences school that I asked, that isn't always true. For documentaries, where subject/talent motion isn't tightly controlled, AF is routinely used. Where the motion is controlled, yes, MF is used. At the time, he was conducting a shoot with two of his students at a local historical village, using a Canon XF305. Because of the subject matter (static Civil War cannons being fired) AF was used to set focus, then MF was used to hold it. Without MF, the camera kept trying to shift focus from the Cannon to the smoke.

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Some high end camcorders do have autofocus, and for TV and documentaries, they use AF.

However for Cinema or high end commercial use, the use of autofocus is rare, in fact, few if any Cinema cameras or lenses have autofocus. I don't think Panavision makes a autofocus lens, for example, and the Zeiss Compact Primes are manual focus. Sometimes there is a bit of footage inserted into a movie taken with a camcorder, but its not the rule.

Its just a matter of what level of professional use you are dealing with. Does the professor belong to ASC?

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Haven't a clue if he belongs or not. I didn't talk with him all that much. All I know is that the documentary is supposed to appear on PBS nationally some time next year (confirmed by a museum employee). I explicitly asked him about AF vs MF because I'd already concluded what he confirmed, that it isn't a matter of amateur vs professional but rather a question of how much subject motion can be anticipated and/or controlled. It makes sense that, for an expensive feature film or commercial, greater efforts would be made to control everything possible, not to mention putting their expensive talent through multiple rehearsals and takes.

Mt Spokane Photography said:

Canon should fix it, and might give you a loaner. Certainly, they are not going to give you $$$ for the loss of use. That is explicitly covered in the warranty.
There is no lemon law for cameras, but call and talk to a manager. Explain nicely and ask that your camera be replaced with a new one after failing to be repaired three times.

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Nice to see the Mods cleaning up here.

Mt Spokane's Probably your best advice, I don't see Canon/Nikon etc giving Money out in these sort of situations, Your best bet is to work the issue up the chain of command and ask for the unit to be replaced.

I purchased the Canon 100f/2.8 Macro L II a while back, opened the Box and the Focus Rubber Grip was completely Loose, walked it back to the People I purchased it from, but ended up with Canon Singapore, discussed the issue with the Technical Manager, he authorised a New Replacement on the spot as it would have required a 6 week turn around return to Japan for repair.

Had an issue with focussing on the Nikon D800 when I owned it (the Big Issue), had it back to Nikon Singapore three times, they eventually replaced the Body with a New one, I promptly sold it as "Near New" & ate the small Loss.

You need perhaps to try and work your complaint above the technician level and get into a discussion with management, 3 times in for a straight forward initial issue, caused by Canon I might add, seems a damn poor response from any Canon service centre, I had both my own 1Dx Bodies into Canon Singapore for the Focus Motor Lubrication issue, returned in 2 days all good no issues, maybe try a different service centre that others here at CR are reporting good responses from, I don't know if that's possible though in your situation in the US.

.....and a 17-40L.

First time poster here, but long time poster on Fuji, Ricoh and other sites.


All the world is a stage........ by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


All the world is a stage Pt2 by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Exit stage right....... by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

MrFotoFool said:

You should absolutely get to Northwest Trek whenever you have the chance. I am a zoo fanatic and have been to over 70 zoos across the United States (and a few in western Europe). It has been many years since I was at Northwest Trek, but it far exceeded my expectations. It is unquestionably one of the best zoological parks in the country. It is also one of the best if not the best for photographers. I am not talking about the special photo tours, which would make it even better, I am talking about just going as a regular visitor. The enclosures are massive and are just built into the existing forest, so it is one hundred percent natural. You will not be disappointed.

To get a feel for the place, look at their image gallery on ZooChat.com, a website for zoo fanatics like myself. Here is the direct link to the Northwest Trek image page: http://www.zoochat.com/gallery/northwest-trek-wildlife-park

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Yes, it was a disappointment to miss out. I used to live in Orting, just a few miles away, but that was before the zoo was there.

Maybe next year. It was a foggy misty morning, so I would not have had ideal opportunities. Then, the tram broke down, and he had to be transferred to a different one, so it was somewhat of a bust.

Re: EF 50mm f/1.8 MK I (metal bayonet, distance scale, actual focus ring)

My 50/1.8 II got broken right after warranty expired, AF stopped working. I sold it for a few bucks, repairing it was way too expensive for such a cheap lens. I had never tested it on a digital body and the results with a 5D MK II really impressed me.

Here in Italy, the f/1.8 II costs 100 €, the f/1.4 350 € and you usually find the f/1.8 I for 150-200 €, which is truly a daft price...

RAKAMRAK said:

Viggo said:

RAKAMRAK said:

You can use something like this on your belt (I am not intending to advertise this particular piece or shop, just I bought this a few months back and found the link easily)......

http://www.adorama.com/GBSFP46.html

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Thanks, I have one like that, mine folds and folds, I like it a lot, but I'll try to find something for my strap for just that one filter.

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Sorry, you need for just one filter, then get a fishbomb..... no I am not kidding search FishBomb ...

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Thanks!

RGF said:

It will take time to get use to it. Not rush - moving from 135 to 24 is a shock. Give it time, then try a 14 or 15mm and you will see what wide truly is ;D

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That's pretty good. Personally I shoot at 24mm quite a lot. If you are space restricted and want dramatic exaggeration of the forms of your subjects, you will be better off with a 24mm lens. This should work well with cars. The only trick behind this is the old saying I quote below:

BozillaNZ said:

If your picture is not good enough, you are not close enough!

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Do give it a try and then you can rethink your options. There is no need to be in a hurry to correct what may not even be wrong.

I have the 400 f2.8L and 600 f4 version II. Of the version I lenses I had the 500 f4, primarily due to weight. So the first thing I would do is to ask myself a very critical "Will I be able to carry this mastodont?".

I have not heard of any systematic faults with this lens. Optically it is still great. Beyond a physical inspection, I would stress the autofocus as much as possible and listen for strange sounds, hunting etc. I would also bring a chart of some sort, an ISO chart or something that could fill its role, to verify lens alignments and sharpness. I would also do an AFMA to check that it is within reasonable limits.

In my end of the world there are still very few of these available on the market and they get fairly good prices. Probably because their current owners are very happy with them.

Good luck!