I took a photo of my Mac tower with my 7D and a my EF 50mm f/1.8 II

Thanks!

Erik
http://www.solargravity.com

http://500px.com/SolarGravity

https://twitter.com/SolarGravity

The big thing I learned is that compared to APS-c, I can crop a FF image from the 24-105 and still get what I want. Not he best phot, but here's what I mean......

Cory said:

My bad. It was this one (too big to attach):

http://www.flickr.com/photos/corysteiner/9237322160/#

It was one of the first that jumped out at me, but has a few problems. I think some of my others are much better (top-70 are at http://cruiseaska.shutterfly.com ).
Thanks.

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Lovely! I remember seeing it now.

5000 days. (inspirational world around us)

Magnum: Magnum. (the zenith of the art)

The genius of Photography (BBC book and DVD)

The Kodak Encyclopedia of Practical Photogprahy (multi volume, I had the old 70's 80's series. Invaluable)

Badger said:

OK, be gentle. For some of us, photography is just a hobby and we don't get deep into the technical aspects of it all. I have a 6D but I couldn't tell you what processor is in it and I have no idea what dual iso amplifiers are.

Having said that, I am mildly curious about Magic Lantern coming to the 6D. Do any of my more learned friend have any information on when or if that is going to happen?

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I have good news for you my friend. It seems it is already available for the 6D.
As you can read here http://www.magiclantern.fm :

Available for Canon EOS:
5Dmk2, 50D, 60D
500D, 550D, 600D
soon: 5Dc, 1100D, 5Dmk3, 7D, 6D, 650D, EOS-M

If you need more 6D specific information (install guide) look here: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5530.0 Keep in mind that ML is mainly for video guys but also has some goodies for stills. You should also keep in mind that altering your firmware might damage your camera. You should read the ML how-tos and guides before flashing.

But this specific feature of Magic Lantern which the OP mentioned in his links (dual ISO / dynamic range increase) will never be available for the 6D. It is a hardware limitation, not a software limitation in this case.

ecka said:

Imagine that you are a cyborg and you see the world through cameras instead of eyes. One camera has 8mp APSC sensor from 20D and another one has 21mp FF sensor from 5D2 (yes, it's weird, you must be made in China, or something). Both with 40mm f/2.8 lenses. You see everything in clearest details up to a single pixel, all of them, all the time. FF camera has 60% wider FoV, but with both lenses focused at the same distance you would see that they both produce the same DoF.
This is a very simplified concept (no need to tell me that), because I don't want to waste any more time on this, but it is real and correct. That's how your camera sees it and renders the DoF. The question is not "How do my eyes deal with DoF?". It is "How the camera does it?". It may not be useful for thumbnails and snapshots, but there is a need for it in photography with extremely shallow DoF and a lot of cropping, like macro (where you can't bring it back if it's oof).

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Seriously? A cyborg? Sure, the DoF from the same lens, with the shot taken at the same distance and aperture but two different sensor formats, will have the same DoF. While true (and something quite obvious that doesn't require a preposterous story to illustrate), it's irrelevant. They yield the same DoF, but what is that DoF? Imagine you have been preserved as a plastinated cadaver for an exhibit at the 24th-and-a-half Century Body Worlds exhibit, and me the cyborg is staring at your outstretched hand. Are your wide, strangely lifelike eyes rendered sharply enough to appear unblurred?

The camera doesn't render DoF. DoF is based on 'acceptable sharpness' and only exists when an image is viewed, and thus viewing conditions like output size and viewing distance matter.

Sorry, but it's now obvious beyond doubt that you just don't understand the concept of DoF (and apparently haven't bothered to even read the definition of the term), so this really is a waste of time.

It is indeed an interesting lens, and certainly one I would look into if i had a need.

alek35 said:

mrsfotografie said:

Samyang 14mm: One of the most arty lenses I own. The 'moustache' distortion is no dealbreaker for my use of this lens. Excellent sharpness and colors and the (self added) addition of an AF confirmation chip makes it sweet to use (MF is otherwise almost impossible due to the large DOF in the viewfinder, even with an EF-S screen).

Click to expand...

This got me curious - how did you add the AF confirmation chip ? It works on your Canon, right ?

Br,
Thomas

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It works on any Canon EOS camera

I bought an AF confirmation chip and glued it onto the rear of the lens as shown in the pictures below. I positioned it in the right place using the supplied alignment tool and checked it with a Canon lens. Note that I had to make a spacer to raise the chip to the correct level: flush with the edge of the metal mount. If you glue it inside the recess it won't contact the pins in the camera!

The chip is programmable so that it will report the correct focal length and maximum aperture but will work without programming.

More importantly, it has internal 'focus micro adjustment' which I programmed at f/4 to nail focus every time and give sharp results at f/4 and above which is the aperture range I use mostly. I found there is some focus shift in this lens depending on aperture so at f/2.8 and f/3.2 the focal plane is not the same as at f/4 and above. Programming the AF chip at f/2.8 therefore results in a false calibration for the stopped down apertures.

Now, for stuff at infinity focus, the focus confirmation is still OK even at f/2.8-3.2 but for stuff critically close to the lens at wide apertures I resort to the precision matte focus screen in my 5DII to check focus is in the correct place.

The chip is programmable as follows:

Samyang 14 mm: 14mm F/2.8, AFMA 26

Preparation:

1 Turn camera on and attach adapter with chip,aperture shows F1.4 on camera.
2 set Manual mode.
3 shutter speed to 1/60 second
4 aperture increment step to 1/3 EV. (it is the most Canon digital camera default setting).

set the aperture value to F/64 and press shutter button once.
set the aperture value to F/57 and press shutter button once.
set the aperture value to F/64 and press shutter button once.
Turn the aperture dial, set the Max aperture to F1.0.

For example: 14mm f2.8 micro adjustment 24

Enter programing mode: F64 shutter, F57 shutter, F64 shutter


Setting focal length
====================

Setting focal length mode: F2.2 shutter

Enter focal length value: F2.0 shutter F2.0 shutter F2.0 shutter F2.2 shutter F3.2 shutter (00014)

Store parameter to chip: F57 shutter F64 shutter F57 shutter

Focal length setting done to 14mm.


Setting Max aperture
====================

Setting Max aperture mode: F2.0 shutter

Enter Max aperture value: F2.8 shutter

Store parameter to emf chip: F57 shutter F64 shutter F57 shutter

Max aperture setting done to F2.8.


focus micro adjustment
======================

Enter programing mode: F64 shutter, F57 shutter, F64 shutter

focus micro adjustment mode: F2.5 shutter.

Enter focus micro adjustment value: F2.5 shutter F4.0 shutter.

Store parameter to emf chip: F57 shutter F64 shutter F57 shutter

Micro adjustment setting up done as 26.

Click to expand...

Note that it is possible to have the Exif report the actual aperture selected, but I use the lens with the camera set to aperture priority and maximum aperture ( f/2.8 ), then I stop down the lens manually and let the camera sort out the metering. This works the easiest but it does mean that if I actually take a photo at f/5.6, it is still reported as f/2.8. Focal length and exposure time are however always reported correctly.

Have you tried Calumet?

I use an interfit softbox. I would say it was good value, works well, but is not designed or consructed for serious professional use. My softbox is fraying and the seams splitting, rods losing their shape etc, but then I've built and rebuilt the box 100+ times on location for different jobs.

It was really cheap so it works out at about £2.50 a shoot. The quality of light is really good and subjects can work under it happily without cooking. Low power draw as well, an issue if you also run a monitor and set light off of a single 13A circuit (with reds, you can light and nothing else)

That's the trade off. To get anything much better you would need to spend much more. Law of diminishing returns and all that. If you are going to work it really hard I would look elsewhere.

i find myself a bit conflicted with this poll, because i have one answer for lenses and another for camera bodies

PhotoAviator said:

Ah, I understand the confusion now. Press the "Info" button twice to cycle the display mode. It's a tradeoff; you'll have more stuff cluttering your display, but the metering values will be displayed for the entire 16-sec period.

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Thanks PhotoAviator ! Still getting used to using LV ;D

After analyse the situation, i need a Lense can make a good boken must be sharp and good reproduction color , stabilized for portrait
i have two choice canon 85L 1.2 or 135L 2.0 the best way take twice $$$$
is very difficult to make a choice
both are very good

I have rented the 35L numerous times and let me assure you with MY style of shooting I prefer my new Sigma 35 much more. The CanonL is not just the new overpriced but far too overpriced. I extend that to the 85 1.2 as well and hope with all fingers crossed that Sigma makes a similar lens.

Yesterday I was going to a friend's place to visit. This friend has two one year old twins. So I took my camera with me along with the recently bought four YN 622Cs. I do not have any ETTL flash, so I put three Nikon SB 28DXs at 1/2 and 1/4th power on top of three bookshelves directed towards the ceiling. The walls were coloured, so the white ceiling was my best bet for reflecting the light. Now, earlier I used to use cables to fire my flashes remotely, and that was cumbersome and clumsy. Boy, yesterday with the four YN622Cs (one on top of my camera, and the other three with the three SB 28DXs) it was so much easy and fun photographing the twins. I was not going for any dramatic lighting, I just wanted enough soft light to use a shutter speed fast enough to capture the twins's activities indoors (and the sudden moments like the photo below where one of the babies falling down after throwing a tantrum). It felt so great just to be able to reposition the lights without breaking a sweat. Some photos from yesterday attached. (Now I need to learn a bit of more post processing) Your comments are most welcome.

PS: YN 622Cs are my first remote flash transceivers. And they seem to work just great in manual mode.

I got my camera back one day before I left to go to Tuscany on holiday, this was after having to send it back after the recall service when it came back with the sensor filthy. I've had major issues with my 1Dx since I noticed the oil splatter on it last September, about a month after I got it. Its been to Canon twice since then, and back twice again, once for the recall and again to clean the sensor. On first occasion sensor came back much cleaner but not perfect, 2nd occasion same thing, 3rd occasion (recall) sensor came back filthy, 4th occasion it was spotless.

Anyway thats a brief history of it, so for the first week or so in Tuscany I have used it largely for street images, shots of my kids in the Pool (12fps), the odd landscape but mostly all at the F1.2 - F5.6 aperture range using roughly 3 lenses, 85mm, 24-105 and 70-200. So on Monday past I see some mist forming in the Hills we are in and jump in the car to go to higher ground, and for all of my landscape shots I am using my 70-200, possibly the 24-105 to begin with, then switching but only one lens change. So now I am shooting at F16 and occasionally at F22. Get back to the Villa and dump the images into Lightroom and start to process them and to my horror there they are again, what looks like oil splatters. I can be pretty certain its not dust as all of the marks are the same size size, similar density and one clone/heal brush size in Lightroom fixes them all. There are bout 20 of them, on a portrait orientation image with the bright sky in the upper 1/3rd that is where the majority are showing themselves, in the lower 2/3rds where the landscape is its more difficult to highlight them. I'd need to take an F22 image of a bright sky to be able to pick them all out.

Do Canon have an issue with this camera which is not being highlighted by their main sector of users, sports/news photographers who are probably shooting at F2.8-F5.6 for most of their work and at these apertures the marks which will appear larger but are barely visible if at all at that range?

I'm seriously unhappy about the 1Dx, I've owned 4 different DSLR's prior to this and never had a sensor dust/dirt issue and I certainly did not expect it from this body having shelled out more than the total cost of the previous 4 on this one body. If its acceptable to the moderator I'm going to post this under a new thread too as a general question to get other user experiences.

drmikeinpdx said:

My Canon S90 is now my hiking camera. But I'm old and can't climb mountains like I used to. Frankly, the shots I got back in the day with a film SLR were never that compelling. Most ended up being snapshots of my fellow backpackers/climbers and that did not need a nice camera.

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+1

What us old guys need is a bearer to carry our equipment.

Imagine the days when 11 X 14 glass plates were used. A photographer usually hired a unsuspecting young but strong man to pack his 200+ lbs of gear up a mountain side. He could only get away with it once in a particular area, word quickly got around that it was not worth the money.

WEX have a 40D with a few small scratches for £169 although I would probably have suggested a rebel body before a xxD body for travelling.

cheeseheadsaint said:

RGF: My lens line up is EF-S 18-55, EF 50f/1.8 and EF 70-200mm/f.2.8 IS ii. (i still have my EF-S 55-250mm but i've been using the 70-200mm instead) so primarily EF lenses. yeah the 1Dx is out of my range

rpt: i didn't consider that yet! hmm...I'm at a point where nearly all my images taken are with the EF 70-200mm f/2.8 IS ii and then sometimes the 50f/1.8 and almost always wide open.. especially when it gets dark. dunno what others lenses i would get.. maybe a faster prime but meh i hardly use the 50f/1.8 anyways at least in comparison to the 70-200mm since I mainly do sports. another thing prolly to mention is that I see this upgrade as a long term thing... like whatever camera i use next, I want to use it until its last clicking shutter before i upgrade.



70D specs look so good for sports photographers!! but surely the catch is the ISO performance. otherwise why the huge price difference?

Click to expand...

So you've answered your own question. If AF is your main concern, then the 70D would likely do. For high ISO the 6D is the clear winner as long as you won't miss the reach with your 70-200.

JPlendPhoto said:

I wish I could show you how much it is shifting when looking through the viewfinder

Click to expand...

If you tripod mount the camera, remove the eyecup and hold something like an iphone up flat against it, you can take an in-focus image of the entire viewfinder. That and a shot taken with the 5D2 from that same tripod position will do it.

However, that gets you nowhere other than satisfaction of proof. Taking it back to the shop as you've already arranged is the best course of action.

I have both of these bodies and I love them both - different tools for different jobs

MK5GTI said:

any tips on setting white balance on shooting waterfalls?

AWB and correct it in post ?

Grey Card?

my ND filter give me that nasty magenta colour

Click to expand...

Shoot RAW and click the color balance eyedropper on an area of white water. That will get you pretty close.

scottkinfw said:

I'm no pro at all, but I would suggest a second body and forget about changing lenses. Maybe the 24-70 and the 70-200, and the flash.

Extra batteries and be sure that you have lots of memory. Aside from that, have some fun.

The others have made great suggestions.

sek

Click to expand...

I was considering a second body like the upcoming 70d. It would make my sigma 35 close to 50mm

AcutancePhotography said:

mackguyver said:

Awesome! I've been thinking about using a golf bag cart, too, but thought I was crazy for the idea. I have bad shoulders and knees so I need something...

Click to expand...

For some reason, I am having problems uploading the actual image. But here is a link to a picture of my cheap, inexpensive equipment cart that did not cost too much.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/78495716@N08/9179598150/#

Click to expand...

Use only this:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/78495716@N08/9179598150

The "/#" is causing the image not to show up...

crazyrunner33 said:

cayenne said:

Actually, right now, hoping that Magic Lanter can soon get raw working fully, and the CinemaDMG conversion will work...and I'll start using that to shoot RAW video with the 5D3....and working with that...

cayenne

Click to expand...

The current Magic Lantern RAW is working pretty well as it, plus there is no need to use the CinemaDNG conversion; DaVinci Resolve was updated and now supports the DNG files from MagicLantern's RAW2DNG app.

Click to expand...

Yeah, but I can't find a simple, step by step tutorial that will show me how to get the RAW functionality onto the latest ML alpha release.

I've read through forum after forum...and well, it isn't clear enough how to do this without making permanet changes and possibly risking bricking my 5D3....

I"m waiting for the RAW functionality install to become a bit more "prime time".



Cayenne

(6D 24-105L f4.0 1/3200) Dixie on the dock:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellfedcanuck/9327948677/#