Posts

Click · May 28, 2013

No, enjoy your cruise and have fun. 8)

...Welcome to CR.

mememe · May 28, 2013

verysimplejason said:
mememe said:

But it doesnt make it a ccd sensor camera.

Click to expand...

? So how does a CMOS camera compare to a CCD sensor camera in terms of RAW video output?

I dont know but ccd is wobbly

LetTheRightLensIn · May 28, 2013

iKenndac said:
LetTheRightLensIn said:

They are not really reverse engineering the firmware. The camera still runs the original firmware straight from Canon. It's not a replacement version that they figured out how to write themselves. There is way too much that have no clue about with how DIGIC and the sensor works to even begin such a task. They simply load the regular firmware plus hooks and extensions that they wrote from the ground up.

Click to expand...

Yes they are — they reverse-engineered many APIs that the firmware provides to display stuff on screen, get buttons presses, etc etc etc. They wouldn't know *how* to hook into the firmware without reverse-engineering at least some of it to figure out where to hook in.

In fact, they say the project uses reverse-engineering right in their FAQ, under the "Is It Legal?" header: "This is a clean room / black box reverse engineering effort", and again under the "Is it safe?" header: "Magic Lantern was created by reverse engineering an undocumented system that controls hardware."

Yeah but come on that is in the most minimal way, obviously they have to figure out how to hook into button presses or render something to the screen if it will do anything at all. It's not like those MS-DOS clone BIOS where they reverse engineered the whole thing and none of the original BIOS code is even there at all.

Basti187 · May 28, 2013

tomscott said:
I used to live near here when I was at Uni. Awesome job! Hope you get a 1st for it

I hope I get a job for it

MxM · May 28, 2013

Open Reikan FoCal
Select Camera
Run Target Setup according to distance chart published below (click find target in target setup to verify distance)
Run Aperture Sharpness Test (leave everything default)
Save Report
Publish Page 2 from the report (720px height)

FoCal Test Distance Chart:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/11469157/FoCal/Docs/FoCal%20Test%20Distance_1.0.pdf

Canon 7D + Sigma 14mm f/2.8 EX Aspherical HSM = 3373,5

Sigma%252014mm%2520f2.8%2520EX%2520Aspherical%2520HSM.jpg

Krob78 · May 28, 2013

dlleno said:
There are several ... the one you're thinking of is probably: proverbs 21:2. "every man's way is right in his own eyes..."

and thanks Jrista for the great clarification re: color noise and moire and the AA filter.

Yes, that's the one! Thank you Dlleno! ;D

Pi · May 28, 2013

neuroanatomist said:
The 10-22 on APS-C is sharp into the corners, and has far less distortion (1.2%, and that's another area where EF-S wins for the 17-55, which is at 2% distortion at 17mm vs. 4.3% for the 24-105L on FF).

The 17-55 has less distortion at 24mm eq.? I did not know that!

The distortion of the 24-105 is the price you pay for the real wide end and for a slightly more reach. The 15-85 distorts a lot, too. Distortion with today's digital workflow is not such a big problem anymore.

Kumakun · May 28, 2013

I bought the RX100 back in February and I've been happy with it so far. I picked it up as an "take every day" option for my 5DIII. On the plus side is the IQ and small size. For me, the biggest negative is the same as another poster (verysimplejason) mentioned above--I am more familiar with Canon menus and so for me it is kind of a pain in the butt to find what I am looking for in the Sony menus. I use the wrist strap and bought a little Lowepro pouch for it.

RGF · May 28, 2013

eml58 said:
RGF said:

Thanks NA

neuroanatomist said:

RGF said:

Thanks. Interesting no mention of wimberley or 4th Gen or ...

Click to expand...

Wimberley doesn't do a replacement foot for the 500/4, they recommend the P-40 plate, and you asked about a replacement foot not a plate.

The 4th Gen foot is more like a plate than a foot, but one that bolts directly onto the mount. I think they do that for the superteles so the big diameter lenses are centered over the Mongoose head (Wimberley has that issue with their Sidekick and Side Mount heads, and they recommend those flat 'feet' for the 400/600/800 lenses, but not the 500). I don't like that design, because it means you can't use the lens foot as a handle to carry the lens.

Like I said...RRS or Kirk.

Click to expand...

Click to expand...

Hi RGF, I've changed all my Big White feet with the RRS Foot replacement, I tried the Wimberley Plates but just wasn't satisfied with the set up, the RRS replacement feet have worked exceptionally well, very Happy. The attached is the RRS foot your looking for, I don't have experience with anything else to compare.

For loosening stuck screws I've found this works for me, Place your screwdriver head into the screw, then a sharp tap with a Hammer (sharp tap, not an all out Arnold shot), if this doesn't loosen it, try soaking the screw area in WD40 overnight.

Thanks for advise on how to loose the screw

lholmes549 · May 28, 2013

All 3 bought off eBay for a total of £2.97. Thank you Hong Kong. I actually like the look of them better than the genuine Canons...but dislike the hole they come with to attach one of those stupid strings that you're meant to tie to...somewhere.
All in all a good purchase that has already saved many frustrations.

wellfedCanuck · May 28, 2013

http://www.flickr.com/photos/wellfedcanuck/8861226631/#

bycostello · May 28, 2013

love my 10 stop filter

grahamclarkphoto · May 28, 2013

Hello all,

I have just uploaded an uncompressed 1080p video test of the Canon EOS 6D. It's actually the first video I've ever shot on any camera ever, so the quality of editing is definitely not the purpose here, but rather simply present examples of 6D video.

Video on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/67106188

If you have any questions let me know! Original review article: http://www.grahamclarkphoto.com/review-canon-eos-6d/

--
Graham Clark | grahamclarkphoto.com

bdunbar79 · May 28, 2013

Hey omar,

Congratulations on your committment to do jewelry photography. It is going to be very challenging, but one I'm sure you can handle. I'd just like to offer some words of advice, in that this is going to be incredibly difficult to get no reflections. This is NOT going to be an easy task at all and could take a very long time to master. But that's the fun in it right? Good luck and remember to post photos here and there!

omar · May 27, 2013

Manfrotto 237HD Heavy Duty Flex Arm f/Super Clamp - this is getting a lot closer to what i wanted
i could use this and just use a rubber band on the torch or plastic clamp
thanks for that

privatebydesign · May 27, 2013

Random Orbits said:
Thanks RC for the micro ball head and cold shoe links!

Is the Lastolite Ezbox that much better than the Westcott Apollo or is it preferred for its setup/breakdown ease, and ability to turn the flash body toward the camera (as opposed to being completely in the softbox)? I also see that the Lastolite has the Ezybox Hotshoe and now the Ezybox II, which seems like it can accommodate two speedlites using the Ezybox II speedlight bracket. Line-of-sight isn't as big a concern for me because I intend to use Canon RT.

Not in my opinion, I have both the Apollo and Lastolite, they both have positives and negatives. I hate the Lastolite bracket (and price) those sliding universal cold shoes are absolute rubbish and the ABS, or whatever plastic they use, has too much flex in it. The Apollo doesn't tilt easily and without radio (moot in your case) is difficult to control the flash.

The Apollo actually sets up faster than the Lastolite and once you overcome the tilt "issue", either by using a boom or their arm thing I find it nicer.

Although I end up using the Lastolite more if I could only have one it would be the Apollo.

JasonATL · May 27, 2013

dirtcastle said:
Beautiful!

One less thing to worry about.

Yes, the freedom of raw. It truly is a beautiful thing! You can be very agressive with pushing the color, exposure, sharpness, and you'll get everything there is to get out of each frame. Raw video is just a sequence of stills (just like in film!).

Mt Spokane Photography · May 27, 2013

omar said:
guys, thanks for the replies
>> IIRC, and if it is similar to the T3i, you have to switch to video, then
>> go to Menu, and then you will find it in there somewhere.
i think this is where i'm going wrong
i haven't gone near this menu
i just needed to point and shoot as quickly as possible (just needed to do this)
i'll give this a go
thanks!

Successfully using a DSLR for video requires that you plan each step, setup the lighting, focus, etc. That is why Canon recommends using Camcorders for most users. There are many situations where using a DSLR for video is totally impractical. Taking a video of the kids soccer game is far better done with a camcorder, for example.

I've seen some fantastic videos from DSLR's and a lot of really crappy ones.

privatebydesign · May 27, 2013

If you want to really go to town create your own profile at each aperture with the free Adobe Lens Profile Creator http://www.adobe.com/support/downloads/detail.jsp?ftpID=5489 it takes a little effort but the results can be well worth it, particularly if you use the lens a lot.

brett b · May 27, 2013

jebrady03 said:
beckstoy said:

I love the shot and don't think you need to do anything to the colors.
...what about a little contrast?

Click to expand...

pdirestajr said:

A few suggestions for what they are worth.

1. Composition- I'd just really work with the angles and framing here to come up with more dynamic shots. Look at the entire right 1/3 side of your image, All I look at is that little weed popping up in the foreground. Now if that weed was the snake's food, that's a different story. Then the snake head is just kinda floating in the middle, with no more significance than the rest of the image. My eyes don't know where to look.

I want there to be something in the foreground in the bottom left of the image to balance with the flow of the head.

An even lower angle would also give a more unique perspective. I don't want to get that close to snakes, but it looks like you are fine with it, so you have the ability to show people something new.

I made a quick crop of your image to show a different visual flow. I wouldn't necessarily have cropped this shot square, but from the image you provided, it was the best I could come up with.

2. Focus- I'd make sure you nail focus on the snake's head to make it pop out at you. The top of his head looks like it is behind the plane of focus.

3. Contrast- It is pretty flat. Even the histogram I pulled looked like it was missing the whole right side.

The macro is cool, but again, it's a standard straight on shot. Play with angles and composition!

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestions!

As for contrast - it's actually interesting. This is what a normal boa constrictor looks like (random image pulled off of a google search...

This animal has lots of contrast, obviously.

The animal in my pictures has actually been selectively bred for several different traits. The first is what's known in the hobby as "pastel" - it's basically just a reduction of black that gives a washed out look. The reason this is so popular is because as they age, most boa constrictors darken and the little black specks increase in number. This trait is an attempt to minimize that to allow the color underneath to remain move vibrant and appealing as an adult. "Pastel" is a polygenic trait in boas (like skin color in people).

The animal in my pictures is also exhibiting another trait known as "hypomelanism". For those without a background in science, "hypo" means under, low, less, beneath, etc. (think hypodermic needle - a needle for injecting under the dermis, or hypoglycemia - low blood sugar). Melanism refers to black pigment. So, this animal has less than normal black pigment. That sounds like the above trait, but it's very different. The above trait just kind of washes the dark pigment away, the hypomelanistic trait actually removes it to a large degree. It's especially noticeable in the latter half of the body - for instance, look at the first picture and at the lower left corner - those orange blotches (known as saddles) are generally surrounded by black but in a hypo, the black has been mostly removed and the color underneath shows through. Hypomelanism is an incomplete dominant trait meaning when a "hypo" is bred to a normal animal - 50% of the babies will receive the hypo gene.

So, this boa is a pastel hypomelanistic boa. It's kind of a double shot of black (contrast) reduction - so it should appear to be absent of contrast.

This animal is also hiding a trait. What I mean by that is that it also has a recessive trait - albinism. Albinism is simple recessive meaning BOTH parents need to contribute the gene to the offspring for the offspring to express the trait. In this case, the mother was an albino and the father was a pastel hypo. So, this animal received the pastel and hypo trait from dad (low odds of happening in one animal) and one copy of the albino gene from mom. So, when this boy is bred in the future, if bred to an animal with one or two copies of the albino gene (either non-visual or "heterozygous" like my male or a visual albino aka "homozygous") he could produce pastel hypo albinos which are GLOWING pink/orange animals like this:

Again, the above image was just pulled from a google search.

So, adding contrast to the photo (I did play with it based on your suggestions) actually end up misrepresenting the animal and actually, in a negative way. People want the washed out coloration and pay more money for it as it results in more beautiful hypo albinos (known as sunglows in the hobby).

JB!! How have you been? Weird seeing you here!

I personally like your image. Having been in the boa breeding industry myself (yes...I'm that Brett, JB), I appreciate that the image is color accurate. I also like your choice of composition and depth of field. I do understand the critique of others who suggest a greater dof and getting a lower perspective. But, too much lower and you would reduce the viewers ability to see the saddles which is a must.

Are you using Lightroom? If so, which version? I think you should bump up the exposure just a bit. If you have LR4, you might want to increase shadows a bit and maybe bump the clarity slider to 20-30 which will add a little mid tone contrast...but not a lot.

What was your light source? I see square shaped catchlights in the snake's eye...2nd & 3rd images.

The image you attached from your google search was probably taken with a point & shoot. It's likely that sharpening, contrast, saturation, etc. were all added in camera...which is what P&S cameras do. So, your attempts to add contrast to an already crummy image file cannot be compared to adding contrast to a raw file.

Are you shooting raw? If not, please start. Or at least shoot raw + jpeg so you have a raw file to work with when the jpeg isn't accurate. Does your camera have picture styles? If so, what setting do you use?

How is Rose?

I hope you are well! I haven't talked to you in years!!

TommyLee · May 27, 2013

adhocphotographer

you think I am over reacting....?

ok...
I found London to be very safe been there a lot...
My brother lived ther 35 yrs..I visited regularly....felt at home

just a few times to Paris...LOVE it.. but there is a known thread of thieves as I described....
I stand by my report

the issues I described were also described by a number of posts I read...upon return and asking about other's experiences...

packs opened in 3-4 attempts ... zipping a bit at a time...
by trailing pair of thieves - one at watch - one behind you...in the tube or a crowd

so I believe Paris is a bit more risk.... and recognized as such.

but I am not an expert.....I defer to your expertise on Parisian/London Crime ...
me...I will stay alert....more alert in Paris

TOM

May 27, 2013

omar said:
>> 438 level
i've looked this up and it's about £70
i'm pretty sure the tripod has a spirit level
i assume therefore that's pants and a level is required?

The 438 isn't a level, it's a leveling base - enables you to make the platform for the head level, easily.

omar said:
am i ok to buy a kit from ebay for under £25? or are there better branded models that i should choose?

Looking at this thread and your macro flash thread, etc., I see a theme. Here's the thing...there are cheap products on eBay to meet most needs, and most of them are...cheap. They don't cost much because they are cheaply designed and even more cheaply made. They don't work from the outset, they fail (usually when you need them most), they are inconvenient to use, and if they are part of the optical or audio chain, they usually produce poor results. Can you get by with the cheap stuff? Sometimes (depending on your standards). Are there 'diamonds in the rough' out there? Rarely (very rarely). The bottom line is that you get what you pay for - and chances are of you opt for cheap gear, your results will reflect those choices.

I realize a budget is a reality. The solution is to focus on one thing, build your setup for that first. If you try to be a jack of all trades, all at once, you'll be expert at none...and paying clientele will notice.

May 27, 2013

rpt said:
The lens is shaped such that the focus of an image on the sensor or film is done for a plane parallel to the plane of the receptor.

Correct - the lens is designed to project a flat image onto the image plane. However, not all lenses are perfect - when a lens doesn't project a flat image, it's called field curvature. The 24-70/2.8L (MkI) has that problem.

eninja · May 27, 2013

When I got home, i re-look into the view finder.
My perspective change.
Now I am aware how bright it is,
its like looking in an arbitrary painting,
I can now see how easy it is to compose my shot.

JBeckwith · May 27, 2013

Even though the last picture had the ISO cranked too high, it's still a nice shot. Blue jays are just so beautiful that it's almost hard to get a bad shot of them. The noise is almost unnoticeable if the picture isn't blown up too much.

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