I'd consider the Sigma 28 1.8 to complete the

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pancake
100 Macro

It is hellofva lot sharper center and corner wise than the Canon counterpart and built a lot better as well but the back/front focusing hassles and sending it back funtimes are not something I look forward to. If I knew I would get a good copy then it would be a no brainer.

To Dylan:
Hard to say. Usually, all big retailers ship the item same day as their shipped email. However, your tracking # indicates its not a regular UPS shipment. It's one on those things where the end part of shipment is carried by USPS (FedEx has it too). It has horrible tracking but to my surprise delivered faster than UPS ground (of course I have just one data point to fit to a line in this case). I hope this helps.......

What about looking into which of Canons compacts can run CDHK?

Something like an IXUS 1100D or Powershot SX230is have the barebones of what you need, just not RAW.

I think you are going to have to accept that a big zoom and a larger sensor means a larger camera. If you want compact and superzoom then concessions have to be made. I think the Panny you mentioned makes a better fist of this than most.

In a way its a shame there aren't any equivalents to the Minolta Diamge A2 or Powershot Pro1 any more, decent handling, decent optics, pretty nasty sensor right enough, but the current crop of HS sensors could make up for the venerable bridge cameras short comings...

But then, cheap rebels killed this segment off! T3i and 40mm?

ML isn't about most people, and neither for that matter is the 7D. It's a little bit like Eye Control Focus, the folk who hated hit seemed to forget about the off switch.

I don't need the green square or spot metering, so I don't use em.

It would be nice to think Canon would open source their firmware to the likes of ML, but then it's Canon who have to deal with warranty repairs. Given that they denied problems with their stock firmware when it was corrupting my movie files for a year, I don't know if I'd trust them to come up with a stable reliable Canon homologated version of ML.

Thanks for the replies. I think I'll go the 1DS3 route. I was able to live with maximum ISO of 1600 of 500D. I don't think there'll be a reason I'll not be able to take better pictures with 1DS3 on 1600 and 3200 ISOs. I'm taking RAW so in-camera lens correction isn't a problem. I can apply them later. The only thing I'm worried (or excited) now is the learning curve. 500D is so easy to use that it will be a major shakeup when I'm able to get hold of the 1DS3. Thank you again. Btw, I love 5D3 more than this 1DS3 but it seems I needed the money to buy more glass.

KyleSTL said:

For architectural photography, I am of the opinion that you use the longest possible lens (most often ≤28mm) to show everything you want within the composition and give you a 'feel' of being inside the space.

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+1
In my view this is the most useful comment in this thread. A frequent mistake made is the temptation to "show everything" in one shot, which may be relevant to real-estate photography, but not necessarily in general architectural work. In most usage scenarios, there is the opportunity to describe the location across a number of shots, whether that be in a magazine spread, a brochure, web etc. A good story teller doesn't deliver the whole plot on the first page. As architectural photographers, often our job is to tell a story.

An advertising shoot may be a bit different, with just one "hero" shot getting all the attention.

-PW

Tammy said:

i shot a few textured walls on a tripod with manual focus through live view, same ISO etc, and my 24-70L II is sharper than my 24L II in the center and the edges at F2.8 and even F4! Just like to confirm your experience as well.

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I am aware of that, but if I kept the Iso locked, then the shutter speed will drop and it was a slight wind that caused unsharpness. The ISO would not affect the sharpness too much, right ?

lukemike said:

There's a lot of talking recently about DxOMark sensor tests.
I was utterly shocked when I saw the results. My question is are their resolution tests accurate?
Can somebody please tell me: are these DxOMark tests right or not. Thank.you.

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I have seen so many crazy results at DxO regarding lens tests that I never even bother to look there now, ever. They have weird results after weird result. 70-300 non-L being much sharper at 300mm f/5.6 than the 70-300L. It might have even been called sharper thanb the 300 f/4 prime. I think they had the 70-200 2.8 IS, at 200mm, sharper than the 70-200 2.8 non-IS, sharper than the f/4 IS, sharper than the f/2.8 IS II or something crazy like that.


That said, their sensor tests, something totally different, DO seem to be very good and definitely something to pay attention to. I go there first, when it comes to sensor data.

i just called -- she said they can do $6399.

not bad.

These are obvious catchlights. Any reflection off a light source will show them.

Cowboy Studio has really good prices, quality is pretty good considering the price. Bought some continuous lighting for video and am happy with it.

here is a soft box and umbrella strobe combo kit for $155
http://www.cowboystudio.com/product_p/2x160wstrobe-2x803-1sb1umb.htm

Thas what m looking for itemized "YOUR" choices. for mid to low price

Say what items especially SPEED RINGS will fist what BOX and what BOOM + stand will carry its weight?

do you guys have such a setup?

Does anyone has any useful information about Canon FPA-3000 iW stepper, regarding its usability and other reviews.

I went a different option and got a 600mm f4.5 canon FD lens off ebay $1500 in perfect condition and an edmika adapter, i'm still on the lookout for an FD TC for it but optically its awesome and almost 2 stops faster than the 300 f4L with 2x TC on it not to mention the 300f4L wit 2x will only AF on my 1D anyway the 5ds are all manual anyway

EOBeav said:

So let me get this straight. Cloud-filtered sunlight and shade are cooler than standard strobes, so you want to cool your strobe to match the ambient. Similarly, sunlight and evening light are both warmer, so you want to warm up your strobe light to match that of the ambient.

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Exactly. Or as I like to put it, "Make sure the light coming out of your flash is f-ed up in the same way as the ambient light." Then, when you make corrections in post, both the ambient lit parts of the image and the flash-lit parts correct equally, and the result should look fairly natural.

I work fairly frequently in rooms lit with tungsten light, about 3200K. The full-CTO is a frequent flyer under those conditions. Also remember that balanced colors are only half of the equation. The other half is to soften or diffuse the light and have it coming from a believable direction. Somewhere off camera is usually much better, depending on your situation and the look you want.

Save up a bit longer and invest in the 70-200 2.8 non IS if you can. The extra stop of light will come very handy.

I don't shoot Golf myself (well, photograph Golf), but I had this page bookmarked from another thread.

I thought it may come in a handy one day, and hopefully today is that day. 8)

http://blog.photoshelter.com/2009/07/fore-how-to-photograph-golf-li/

Thanks all for your replies, The cameras fine, and is one of the new generations models, the focus is spot on normally, this conference wasn't so bad, as in light, but it would hang, Im wondering if the AF is too fast and has to wait for the as illuminator off the flash to make contact to the person, Im honestly not dreaming this up, and I am surprised no one has noticed this, one thing I did notice is that the main Illuminator wasn't as bright as I used to remember, maybe a combination of things, I have my 5d3 set up so the cross points illuminate when its dark only and when it achieves focus, I wonder if anything like that would cause a problem with the flashes illuminator? hmm

Do upgrade your 5d II to III - I'm really happy with mine. 1Dx will be an overkill and you can use the £s towards more glass.

I'd suggest 135 since you mainly shoot family and travel etc where as i'm not sure how often you'll use the 400 5.6.

Happy shooting.

Re: Polar bear and the 70-200

Gives you a good idea of the polar bear's size - HUGH!

hitobito said:

Yesterday, October 13, 2012, I checked my B & H Photo back ordered Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II (USM) lens and learned that the lens I ordered is available and the order was fulfilled and sent to their warehouse for shipping! I ordered this lens with a credit card guarantee for payment in mid July, 2012. It took three months to fulfill. I expect to receive this lens by Tuesday, Oct. 16th or Wednesday the following day. I am eagerly looking forward to using this lens. I purchased a Tamron AF 28-75mm F/2.8 II F macro (new for $500) and it was a good lens but not the quality of the Canon EF 70-200mm F2.8L II lens, so I ordered the 24-70mm II lens.

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Wow, local stores have had them going in and out of stock for quite a few weeks. B&H seems to be having issues getting their quotas from Canon. I had heard that there was some friction that caused this, but heve no specifics.

smithy said:

I'm going to be honest though: the photos didn't seem to have a particularly unique look to them. I expected more, considering the lengths to which he went to be able to use the M lens on his Canon.

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Have to agree.

neuroanatomist said:

BPO said:

When I hit the test flash button it makes a loud noise and light comes out but it's not in a flash like its supposed to be.

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That sounds like modeling flash, which can be set to fire with the Pilot/Test button with C.Fn-02.

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It is, but on my 430ex2 it's more like a gentle buzz like from an electric shaver. Can't help you with the pw, but if the noise from the modeling flash is indeed loud something could be broken.

enraginangel said:

I shot a wedding a couple a weeks ago with my Sigma 70-200mm OS for the first time and I had like 90% keepers. It really is a great lens. Yes, AFMA works and yes, TCs work. However, lens profile autocorrection within the 5D Mark III will not work, but you can still do that in Lightroom.

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Cool, I was scouring the net to see what's the difference in sharpness. So far I found center sharpness is great, but the corners/edges tend to be soft. Have you felt this in your images, or are they just overstated. Personally for me as long as its not too obvious I guess its fine.

Hi NA

Knew the GN part - no questions there, thanks for the estimate on Ws

KimH