docholliday said:

425 is a good deal, especially with 2 lenses. I shot a Pro-S with 6 lenses and 10 backs for quite a while before I went to Hasselblad...

Lenses are cheap - look at KEH.com. I'd also suggest getting a Beattie Brightscreen/Intenscreen for it, makes the world of a difference in being able to see and focus well. I actually preferred the waist level over the prisms, as the prisms are darker, heavier and there just ain't anything like shooting with a waistlevel. FP-100C is beautiful off the 6x7 back. As far as the backs go, I wouldn't worry about light leaks - it's cheap to get them refoamed. Just order some foam strips, sharpen a chopstick and use some alcohol to scrape out the old foam. Then, stick in the new strips and you're done.

The 90mm is the standard length for the view, equiv to a 50mm in small format, 80mm in Hasselblad. The bellows make it nice as you don't need tubes to get closer than normal. HOWEVER, do rack out the focus and check to be sure the bellows aren't crinkled or have pinholes - that'll do more damage than bad foam!

I dragged my RB all over the country, with a 50mm, Sekonic L-327 and Fuji Acros/Provia. Heavy, but with a op-tech prostrap, it wasn't bad.

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Thanks for the suggestions and recommendations. I'll try it out a bit first and see where I want to go with it. I'm actually doing a video/photo fun shoot with a beautiful musician and her artist/graphics friend on Sunday, so when we head up and I pull this out with the Polaroid back, should make for some fun and interesting photos! Not sure if it has the waist-level view or not. The CL images don't show it, I'll ask when I go to pick it up. Even if he doesn't, looks like Keh.com or ebay to pick one up easily for an OK price.


UPDATE: So, I went ahead and bought it. Oh excited I am!! There's a few rolls of quite old (not stored in freezer) 110 color and b&w film that came with it. Perfect for learning how to load the backs I'm going to stop by Samy's tonight and pick up some of the Fuji instant-develop film, and start using that to start with for a pack or two, and then on the weekend actually loading some of the old 110 film and find a place that develops locally, if I can.

Re: Patent: Canon EF 14 f/2.8 with Flourite

J.R. said:

"Flourite® is a specially fracted, stable porous clay gravel for the natural planted aquarium"

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So does that mean it is an underwater lens?

CanonGrunt said:

Cam Ranger!!!! I love it. Everything you want and more!!!!!

For use with iPhone, iPod Touch, and iPad.

www.camranger.com $299, so it costs a little bit, but worth it I'd say.
...

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The 1Ds II isn't on the supported hardware list for presumably the same reason as dslrcontroller - the need for liveview. It's still neat.

I wonder what a large format telephoto prime would cost.... Probably more than my house......

JasonATL said:

The alpha version that I'm using does not auto-boot. You must load it each time you want to use it by going into the Canon menu and selecting Firmware update. Not a huge deal. The nice thing is that it can be on your SD card and only loaded when you need/want it.

Also, the alpha that I was using on the 5D3 is quite conservative in not writing over Canon settings. Thus, there are key ML features that aren't there right now. But, for me, having focus peaking, zoom, histogram, and vectorscope make it very useful and address a lot of shortcomings on the 5D3 with respect to video.

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Ok, thanks...

Just on the ML site and appears a new Alpha version is out. I think I may download, read up and try it this weekend!!

Thank you!

C

Marsu42 said:

You're saying that 2x cpl doesn't work as a vari nd or just that cpl+linear is cheaper?

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Two stacked CPLs won't work effectively as a variable ND. A CPL is a linear polarizer with a 1/4-wave plate behind it, that 1/4-wave plate in a sense 'un-polarizes' the light, because AF systems cannot use linearly polarized light. A varible ND cuts down the light as the orientation of a pair of linear polarizers approaches orthogonal (90° to one another would be 'black' if the polarizers were 100% efficient, which they aren't). The commercial variND filters have just one 1/4-wave plate at the back to circularize the the output so AF works. If you stack two CPLs, the light is already circularized when it hits the second linear polarizer (the 'front' of the second CPL), meaning you can't approach the orthogonal orientation that results in progressive light blocking.

Therefore, two stacked CPL's in 'normal' orientation (i.e. if you don't modify one of them) won't yield very much darkening. If you pull the glass from one of the filters, flip it, and put it back in the mount, and put that modified CPL in front of the unmodified CPL, then it will work as a variable ND filter - but that's because by flipping it, you've put the 1/4-wave plate in front, and actually converted your circular polarizer into a linear polarizer. Easier to just buy a linear polarizer...

Bottom line, the way to make a DIY variable ND filter is with a linear polarizer stacked in front of a CPL (not the reverse).

I'm not a videographer but I have all three lenses. If I could only have one lens it would be the 24-105. If you already have a crop camera, the 24-105 on full frame + 70-200 on crop makes a terrific pairing, which I use.

I had the original (Tamron 70-200 "Macro") for a while and it definitely wasn't compatible with the Canon 1.4x teleconverter that a mate of mine owned (rear element collision). I can't speak for the new one, but I'd want to test the combo out before buying.

Shoot at f1.2, open the file in DPP, hit command J (I don't what it is for windows), look at the size of the focus point relative to the subject it covered. Most of the time (for my images) the DOF is thiner than the AF point!

cayenne said:

RMC33 said:

Not an issue. TSA (in the states) never hassles me when I travel and I have 2 units + ST E3 RT. All the devices with radios/wi fi etc. that people carry every day they could care less about triggers in a flash unit.

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I seriously doubt the TSA would even have a clue what those items were, much less even consider they had radio capabilities.

Besides, they're a bit too busy lately with "security theater", and hassling/groping little girls in wheel chairs.

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Oddly enough in the Reno, NV airport one of the guys is a photo buff. He "held" me (I had the time) to chat about what I was up to. Has become a good friend=).

Thanks

I have 2 of them

One is a short range from 1957.
One is brand new and is 6 bit encoded for digital.

Best 50mm I've ever used...

ET

Pretty sure sigma have a fast 28mm! Never used it though. It's not a new lens, but it's also supposed 'macro' or in real terms, pretty close focusing at least.

Hillsilly said:

Plus there must be some basic information already going to the lens. Otherwise, how does it know when to stop down and for how long? Maybe a feature we'll see on the Canon medium format camera? 1/1000 flash synch times would be a big selling point.

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with high speed sync you can get 1/1000th second synch. Only the flash power is turned way down.

off the beaten track...a few shots from New Years up by Badger Pass w/ 5dc + 24-105

bvukich said:

Rienzphotoz said:

bvukich said:

Hobby Shooter said:

Rienzphotoz said:

Eclectik said:

I think the GPS is a useless addon, provided you have a smartphone + an inexpensive appli like GPS4cam. It offers IMO the same benefits of an integrated GPS. I'd rather like Canon focus on photographic specs rather than these useless peripheral specs, that cost a lot for a very weak added value. The smartphones HAVE a GPS, we have a smartphone always with us, bar.
About the WIFI, this could be differerent, but there is too a dedicated grip... So ? I really do prefer high iso performances for less MP, weather sealing, and a lower price... I'm maybe old fashioned ?

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Disagree
I do not belive that an in camera GPS is going to add a lot of cost to the camera. I'd rather have it in camera than pulling out the smart phone, capture the GPS coordinates, identify the image to add the coordinates in post process sounds like too much of a hassle. I subscribe to the idea of have everything but give the users the option to turn them on/off.

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+1
please correct me if I'm wrong on this one, but the camera will have a 'true' GPS, meaning a GPS that will function on its own, whereas a smart phone only has the aGPS meaning assisted GPS where it will need a Wifi connection or 3G connection to be able to obtain its position. + the extra hassle of having to connect it to the phone and all that annoying stuff that won't work properly anyway, no I'm not a fan of having to rely on my phone and in this case some home cooked app too much.

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The problem with GPS without A-GPS is how long a cold start takes. The transfer rate from a satellite is extremely slow, and even though it's only a couple kB it can take quite a while, and only then can it attempt to acquire a lock. A-GPS has the benefits of being able to download that data from a faster source, and having a rough estimate of current location so it can determine where it is way faster.

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Cold start may take longer but I'd rather have it in camera than another device that I have to pull out and go through the hassle of tagging them in PP. At some point someone needs to take the initiative of including them in Semi Pro DLSR's and that's where further progress can be made with faster locking on to the coordinates can be achieved. A good example is Canon 600 EX-RT speedlite ... yes there are some AF issues, but unless the RT was not integrated by one of the big names, there would not have been much progress in this area.
I subscribe to the idea of useful new technologies being integrated into products that can benefit people ... at the moment I see WiFi and GPS as very useful features for a lot of people, especially if the user has the option to turn them off.

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I agree completely, the more features the better. I would just prefer that features that may impact reliability be deployed with extreme caution to "single digit" bodies. I don't think WiFi of GPS would impact reliability in any appreciable manner (excepting the occasional "battery died because I forgot to turn GPS/WiFi off"), things like swivel screens still worry me though.

Perhaps my fear is unfounded; I never had any problems with my 60D, nor did I ever hear of anyone else having problems. But I also literally never used it, and haven't missed it one bit on the 5D3.

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I used the swivel screen a lot on my 60D, but I sold it last week to one of my colleauges as I was hardly using it ever since I bought the 5D MK III (last August) and TBH, I did not miss the swivel screen ... maybe I am just in awe of my "first full frame" DSLR. But I do see swivel screen's usefulness for people like me who are nearing 50 (or above) and having difficult time getting up quickly after crouching/lying down on the floor for a nice shot of a flower or some macro shot etc ;D ... so let's settle this disagreement into what we can agree on: Swivel screen for old farts like me and no swivel screen for strapping young lads like yourself ;D ... I have taken the liberty of assuming you are a young lad, but no disrespect intended ... I meant it as a compliment.

Well done. Do share your first hand expericences.

Nice. I really like the first one with bike blurred in the background.

Cheers

Thank you for the compliment, Tgara.

tgara said:

Those are beautiful shots, Roman! Thanks for sharing!

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I have to agree on Syl Arenas speed lighting book. Just a suggestion, but check your local library. Our library has this book as well as other photography books on E-book formats for checkout.

sdsr said:

Area256 said:

What is interesting is the D7100, which is looking like a very impressive camera for the price. The new 7D mark II (based on the current rumors) looks like it'll trash it, but at twice the price. So I would guess that Canon will want to make the 70D a reasonable competitor to the D7100 at that price/feature level - which would bring it up a fair bit from the current 60D. However given what happened with the 6D's spec sheet vs. the D600, anything is possible.

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The D5200 has Nikon's first recent non-Sony (24MP) sensor, and some of the reviews I've read complain of banding in shadow noise starting around ISO 3200. I hope the D7100's sensor, which is different still, will be free of that particular problem....

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That's interesting. Who will we rely on to tell us, dxomark? Since it's a new Nikon product, you just know they already have done the review...

The 24-105 is fantastic. Have to use lens correction for the wider range, but it's very good.

ISO 3200, f/8, 1/13, 35mm, Canon 6D

Bought used 7ne for about $100 from Adorama about 5.5 years ago when my EOS 50 broke (to be honest: film door latch . I had EOS 5 and 3, but I liked the EOS 50 a lot.

The first camera they showed me was a bit dusty though rate E or so. Since the battery was dead when the sales clerk was fiddling with it I asked them to see another one. I'm sure it was fine, but I was a little turned off by the dusty look. The next one must have been overstock, as it was mint. I think I knocked $15 or so off it, but then I also bought a 70-200 f2.8 at the same time (and knocked a 50 or so off that.

Anyway, 7ne is better than Elan II, I love it and still can't part with it. It's small, the placement of the rear wheel is still more comfortable for me than any canon dslr since. And while there are only 3 focus points but I think Eye control (last version of it is on 7ne I think) makes them more useful than the dozens we got now. It was my first experience with ECF and it worked. It's baffling to me why Canon dropped it. I mean, if you want to go full auto - fine, but if they still let you manually click through all their points with a button and wheel acrobatics - I just don't understand.

Anyway, Adorama was good, BH was good when I bought there. If that kind of peace of mind is worth $15 to you, go ahead. It's only $15, I think in this case BH is just trying to protect reputation rather than earn extra income on warranty. Or find an even cheaper deal and chance it. These were just about the last film cameras produced, refined from previous generations of similar cameras, and they were good, so there are probably lots of gently used ones.

babiesphotos.ca said:

Viggo said:

The 5d3 is capable of shooting thin dof and moving kids. The problem might be that it is on the edge of what's impossible AND you have to struggle with the not-canon's-best AF of the 50mm f1.4.

Try the same settings outside and see if more light helps, I'm sure it will.

What you should try, since you say when the kids stop suddenly and it's "Still" oof, that is my experience to, if your AF is set up to respond to fast erratic action, when the subject stops the AF is still in top gear wanting to hit action.

First off, get your AF-start off the shutterbutton and onto the AF-ON button on the back, that way you can, for example, shoot off a few shots of a sequence, track away and shoot off a few more without the AF having to find your subject every time you push and release the shutter.

Then, and this I'm not 100% sure you can do on the 5d3, but I think you can; Select the AE lock button to recall settings and set those settings to fast action with expansion points, case 6 etc. And the AF-ON button to engage "normal" case 1 AF with single point. That way you can just move your thumb 5mm and change the behaviour of the camera COMPLETELY and get all shots focused, even if your kid runs and jumps or suddenly sits down having a sip of his juicebox. Trust me, I know one set up doesn't work with kids, you need to take advantage of EVERYTHING the 5d3 offers, and again, practice, practice, practice.

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Huge thanks!

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No problem, I have struggled with all of this myself and have gotten great tips here at CR and worked out a few solutions of my own, because toddlers are the worst to keep up with, and yes we want shallow DOF! ;D