While higher DR is good, and Nikon is clearly better than Canon at this, Canon's DR is still very good. For me noise is a bigger issue for ruining digial photos. I will aways be happy to have more MP in a new sensor as long as the noise is the same or better that current sensors. PC's are also getting more powerful, a HP Z820 can have dual Xeon CPU's with 512GB Quad Channel Ram and can have a high end Quadro and Tesla cards (NVIDIA Maximus) that are
supported by LR4 and CS6. Quadro and Tesla slam GeForce, Radeon and FirePro with Adobe solutions at the moment. The only issue is the cost of such a system.

DJD said:

Love your picture. I've been thinking of getting a 100-400 for my 7D. How do you like yours?..

Click to expand...

Thanks Doug

I really like it, and there's nothing else out there like it. I'd love to find something in this range that's affordable to try on my Nikon gear but so far I don't see that option.

It's not TOO heavy, the slide zoom takes a bit to get used to but once you do it's very quick for things like running animals and even birds and bugs in flight; I could use more practice.
I was getting some decent images from it with my older bodies but it didn't really shine for faster work until I put it on a 7D. After I got used to the AF system, or at least got better with it, it's been quite amazing with that lens. I've been getting bang-on AF using servo tracking for small subjects using spot-AF. Not easy to keep single spot AF point on target but I've found the assist/group AF doesn't tend to work as well for my shooting with busy backgrounds. But that's just me and the 7D..
AF performance on a 5D3 or 1Dx should be really good. On 40D, 60D and even 350D it worked quite well too, just not up to fast tracking like the 7D (or other fast bodies.)

The lens is really sharp up to 200mm then gradually softens towards 400mm. Not much, mind you, it's still quite decent and I'm often shooting with it at the long end.
Bokeh can be rough in transition zones with fine detail like grass or branches but acceptable otherwise.
CA isn't bad and easily corrected.
The IS could be improved for handheld static subjects but at least it helps. I'm usually panning with it so IS is of limited value. Surprisingly, with birds in brush or clutter I'm often manually focusing too with decent results.

It's definitely great for bird close-ups at typical backyard distances, wildlife, even some kinds of landscape shots. I tried a few long range shots with a 40D and 1.4 extender on it but the AF missed a bit and subject (running fox in evening light) was not in sharp focus. Longer range work tends to require fast and pricey 600mm glass.

OTOH, some say the 70-200 f/2.8 L IS II with a 1.4x or 2x extender (latest versions) works pretty well too if you already have that lens. I haven't tried it to compare since I only have the 1.4x v2 and already had the 100-400mm.

So, it's not an ideal lens, but it covers an extremely useful range and performs pretty well optically and AF.
If you can find a used one in good shape and good price I think you might enjoy what it can do for providing a new perspective.

I came here to post the same question as the OP, so thought I'd bump and see if anything has changed in the past 5 months and maybe there are some 3rd party filters available now?

Failing that I can cut my own but does anyone have ideas on a fluorescent correction filter kit and a place to buy one that ships internationally? Just looking at a few places locally (Australia) they only seem to stock the 'artistic' filters.

Really nice

Ryan708 said:

Z said:

The 24-105 f/4.

At a glance the f/4 figure will seem like a downgrade from the f/2.8 of the 17-55, but the short answer is the full frame sensor will more than compensate for the smaller max aperture.

Neuro will probably be along in a mo to explain exactly why. The technical details escape me

Click to expand...

Haha, good call. Neuro's thoughts are exactly why I want to move to FF. I want an L class standard lens with IS, and an L class ultrawide, thats not too horrible on distortion. Thinking of 17-40 (when not an UWA will be a standard on 60d backup) and a 24-105L. Waiting on some reviews of the 6d before I choose a body. Id love a 5DMkIII but that won't be happening :-/

Click to expand...

I would go with a 5D II over the 6D. It's cheaper and still an excellent camera.

http://www.photowarehouse.co.nz/tamron-sp-af-70-200-f2-8-di-vc-usd-canon?ref=pricespy

The Photo Warehouse (A somewhat big retailer in New Zealand) has listed the 70-200mm VC for 1978 NZD, roughly 1600 USD.

Maybe the price is an estimation of their own, if not, then we know now how much its gonna hurt our pockets... too much.

mirekti said:

I don't really understand these gels, bags. I mean, if one put them in the bag that is not airtight and it's humid outside of the bag, silica bag will collect as much humidity it can and than you end up in a humid environment again, right?

For me it only makes sense to use it in airtight boxes or zipped bags, correct me if I'm wrong.

Click to expand...

True. There's not a lot of air movement into and out of a closed camera bag, though, so it will take a while to saturate.

Personally, I use desiccant packs - but only with the gear stored in Storm cases (which are airtight).

jonathan7007 said:

Canon suggested I try using the AF-Focus button and that's interesting work-around, but I would try to assign the "M-Fn" button to that task, because it's near the shutter and it uses the index finger. Faster reaction than jamming my thumb up by my cheekbone to find that AF-Focus button among the three that are there.

Click to expand...

Depending on the body, the AF-ON button is a slightly different size or separated more from the other two. Since you mention M.Fn button I assume you've got a 5DIII. AF + Metering start cannot be mapped to the M.Fn button, only to the AF-ON or AE Lock buttons (or the shutter half press, of course), or to the AF Stop button if you're using a supertele lens.

But back-button AF is probably the best solution if you want to focus-recompose. Once you start using it, it becomes automatic, and the only time it's an issue is when you hand your camera to someone else (but the 5DIII has the green square mode, which will cancel out back-button AF).

dr croubie said:

RLPhoto said:

Its not the camera but the Fleshy, breathing Device behind it is what counts.

Click to expand...

CameraSatan standing over your shoulder?

Click to expand...

Do you mean Nikon? ;D

I don't know. I really don't see anything interesting there. It's yet another small sensor camera. I don't care how pretty it is and how fast it's AF is or whatever.

Oh, just wanted to add that while you might at times feel awkward as "that photographer guy" (and if you are using off-camera flash, you're guaranteed to stand out from the shutterbugs), but then you can grow into becoming "that guy who takes awesome photos" with people begging you to do it - it's all up to you!

A lot of people are suggesting to go with the 5d3 as it is more "familiar"... let me tell ya... I got my 5d3, a day later did a pro model shoot (a friend so not a paid gig) and I had to still take about 30 min during the shoot to fumble around the menu system to figure something out... I think i was trying to get expansion iso's or something like that... needless to say the camera menu has changed and the AF compared to the 40D is such a different beast... It WILL 100% guaranteed be a different beast than the 40D AND D800 for that matter... If the only reason is familiarity, the learning curve would be so different i dont think it would matter either way. That being said, if you study the user manual the day before and fumble around with it... If you learn the system, I think the 5d3 could seriously be a better option, but it could be partially biased.. I've shot with many different cameras and systems and brands... My keeper rate has never been higher than it has been with the 5d3, but i'm sure the same can be said of shooters with the D800... Good luck...

Hey everyone,

I have been posting my shoots here and have gotten some awesome feedback!

Here is my most recent shoot that I did on wednesday. Any constructive feedback/critiques are more than welcome. We shot this at about 5-6:30pm so the light was soft and loved every minute of it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/logan_hickle/sets/72157631858895206/

Thanks for your time!!!
Logan

This is my latest! and first black and white wedding film. Tell me what you think =-)

http://www.stockhammedia.com/2012/10/26/downtown-san-diego-wedding-kasey-and-richard-in-black-and-white/

Freelancer said:

RLPhoto said:

The 5D3 is over-priced. That why I bought it off of evil bay for 3000$. ;D

Click to expand...

you still payed to much.. there are ~2699$ (depending on the dollar course) deals now in my country.

Click to expand...

Well, 3000$ around two weeks after Launch. Plus, I needed to replace my dying 5Dc already and I still made the right choice for when I needed it.

I will buy another 5D3 body to replace my 7D soon when that adorama fire sale comes back. ;D

Is it a good idea for your prospective partner?

Can you keep up with them?

Partnerships are two way deals. You need to think about them as well.

Octavian said:

Ok I managed to get a hold of the manual during lunch and pages 48 and 172 mentioning Bulb modes and the top display so hopefully the damn thing shows the Exposure time elapsed on the top panel!
Ill take a closer look this evening : fingers crossed!
Nick.

Click to expand...

And page 172 it is

Feel free to continue laughing with your Nikon fellow ;D

Protection filters are a controversy. Some love, some hate. I tend not to use them unless in harsh circumstances. The hood does a pretty good job of protecting the lens as well.

If you walk around outside a lot, a decent Circular Polarizer can act as both a protective, and functional filter. I got a 77mm Marumi for I think like $70 from amazon. Great reviews and a lot cheaper than B&W and Hoya.

-Brian

i rarely come to this regional forum, but i got to put two thumbs up for Smugmug. I am in Canada as well.

i did consider Zenfolio couple years back, and the two drawback make me go with Smugmug.

1. no video at that time, i understand they finally have it now ???
2. upload speed at my work, Smugmug is A LOT faster.

Layout wise, i like Smugmug more.

search for coupon code on web to save $15-20 bucks

I was looking at getting some CF cards from Discount Digital Photographics, and was wondering if anyone had had any recent experiences with them. Their prices on CF cards seem quite good - at least by Australian standards.
(http://www.d-d-photographics.com.au/)

I would also add if you are going to use the onboard flash from the 60D dont be afraid of adjusting the Exposure Compensation settings. Otherwise the flash can really blow out shots and make them not feel as natural.

Heres a quick FYI link to get you started.
http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/flash-exposure-compensation-options-on-a-canon-eos.html

thanks for the info! i did not realize that the LCD on the mk III would shut off if its hdmi were actively being used...

Maybe ML will figure out a way to turn off that system preset in the mkIII so an external monitor is not completely necesary when filming with an external device... only time will tell.

I have got a similar setup 7D + 24-105L and was quite pleased with the Canon 10-22mm.
I am planning on going FF hence decided to sale the 10-22mm and got myself a Sigma 12-24mm II.
http://www.photozone.de/canon_eos_ff/676-sigma1224f4556iiff
I have been quite pleased with it so far. A little slower than Canon 10-22mm but it has not been an issue and the fact it is a FF lens means I will be able to use it on both cropped and FF bodies..

Canon rumors forum: Shark officially jumped....

R1-7D said:

Stephen Melvin said:

R1-7D said:

Thank you again for the response!

So am I understanding you correctly too in that each camera will be calibrated differently, so to speak, and some 5DII's will have more shims than others depending on how they are manufactured?

Click to expand...

Pretty much. Things get even more complicated when you have a 100% screen, like the Mk III. Lots of hand calibration.

The dust you saw was probably on the bottom of the focusing screen in the first place, btw.

Click to expand...

Thanks!

I feel so much better now. I can go out and use my camera and finally enjoy it after all this useless tinkering!


One last question, though: Is there any particular symptom that will show to make you want to add or remove an extra shim?

Click to expand...

If you manually focus, and when you are certain the image is sharply focused, but the image is not in focus, that indicates a problem. Once its properly calibrated, if it goes out, something is wrong and it needs to go to Canon, they do not go out unless something has broken.
Normally, a change in shims is only required when a different screen is installed, and its a slightly diferent thickness. This seldom happens unless you were to install a 5D screen in a 5D MK II, for example, and then they normally come with a shim.