Still images taken with Canon EOS R5 Mk II may be recorded as corrupted/abnormal due to incompatibility of certain SanDisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II 64GB, 128GB and 256GB V60 cards.

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My Hassy was in the shop so I used the R5, with the RF 50 1.2 and RF 85 1.2. Broncolor strobes.
This was taken in a studio and the background is AI generated

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Canon R5, mostly with the RF 100-500 or the RF 85 1.2. Some panoramas


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Still images taken with Canon EOS R5 Mk II may be recorded as corrupted/abnormal due to incompatibility of certain SanDisk Extreme PRO SDXC UHS-II 64GB, 128GB and 256GB V60 cards

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If you have been listening to me at all last year (and if you haven’t.. why the heck not?), one thing I have noted is that there’s a weird renaissance happening with compact cameras, especially in Japan.

Hello


I'm considering buying a Canon 2000D whose LCD doesn't work, I would like to know if you can give me some advice, the price is €50 but I would like to know if there are cables that could be the problem and need to be replaced and what are their prices? The LCD screen could cost around €30.


Any advice about how fix the issue on that camera ?

Hey all,

Finally joining this decade and picking up an R5 Mark II before too long.

I've always been an SD card shooter on my 5D for convenience and the lack of a high speed shooting need. But I'm giving that a rethink in light of pre-continuous shooting with the R5 II and my ever-so-slight uptick in shooting birds/wildlife (it's rare, but when I need a buffer I really need it). So CFexpress seems likely for me.

And I'll be building a new PC soon as well. So this thread is about the reader itself: I hate loose, dangly readers on my physical desktop, they almost always require two hands to insert a card, the cords are annoying and I don't place things like that on top of my computer case. I prefer a dedicated card slot like I've enjoyed with SD all these years.

PC Case manufacturers never made case-integrated CF readers that I can recall. Instead, component manufacturers used to make mountable modules for the front of PCs (similar to how an optical drive sits) for card readers:



Do they make those for CFexpress? I did a quick scan of New Egg and B+H and I'm not seeing anything.

- A

Anyone here seen and photographed one of these?

In an odd twist that is the saga of the Speedlite EL-1, it looks like Canon has a few left as they are in stock at B&H Photo. The Speedlite EL-1 was discontinued back in September and we are awaiting a new flagship Speedlite from Canon.

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It looks like one of Canon's new cameras is going to be called the EOS RC. Details are quite limited at this time, but it comes from a source with an almost impecable record. What is the EOS RC?

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Hey all -- been a while! Trust you all have been well.

I'm finally taking the plunge on an R5 II after 12+ happy years with my 5D3. I've not ordered yet, but I'm getting my ducks in a row for gear I plan to sell / keep / replace. I think I've got a solid gameplan for my current lenses and accessories, but I was curious what best practices in migration you'd recommend.

A few questions specifically come to mind:

• Are two LP-E6P batteries enough for a full day of vaca, sightseeing or landscape work? Presume I'm on the grid and can recharge each night.
  • Other than perhaps a random wildlife moment where I live (an odd fox or eagle), I almost never run high fps stills capture -- but that might only come up 2-3x a year.
• Next to zero need for a rear CPL for what I shoot*, so I should get the control ring adaptor for my EF glass, right?
  • *I already have a 105 CPL for my front filtered Lee 4x6 holder, and that rarely gets used, about 1x a year
• What's your trusted partner for selling old gear (the 5D3 body + EF lenses in particular)? A lot of online houses make it push-button easy, but their offer prices seem absolutely brutal. Is selling on FM's forum still at thing? Is there a new/better show in town?

And I'm always game to hear your tips, best practices and lessons learned from migrating. Thx as always.

- A

Hi people, let's see I have a doubt about the concept and I would like to understand and take advantage of the R7's ability to produce HDR PQ photos... I have 2 options or leave the quality in RAW in settings and activate the HDR PQ function with priority for D or D+ highlight tones ok? And the other option is to put quality only HEIF in settings... (With HDR PQ ACTIVATED)... DO I HAVE TO process that raw in dpp with HDR PQ enabled? I don't have an HDR monitor... but I do have a Samsung QLED 2021 TV that supports HDR 10 plus... can I see those enhanced HEIF or RAW/HEIF photos on the TV? By connecting the camera to the TV??? Or do I have to convert to JPG (HDR PQ) or HEIF (HDR PQ) first and then watch them on the TV??

Thanks

I would LOVE this, that extra 4mm is huge, and combined with the 70-200 f/4 this would be a relatively lightweight yet highly capable combo for landscape photography.

I was wondering if this has occured to anybody. I used my R6 with the original Canon BG-R10 grip attached this morning and failed on me twice. Blackout viewfinder with the IS constantly going in the EF 400 F2.8L IS II. To me suprise, turning the camera off did not help, the IS in the lens kept woking with a black viewfinder. Removing the batteries from the grip, then putting them back in instantly resolved the problem.
While it was a cold winter morning with -3 degrees in Celsius (26-26 F), I wouldn't consider that extreme cold. I have used the R6 in low temperatures like this before and never had an issue like this, although I did not have a battery grip back then.
I'm planning to switch to R3 in the future for other reasons, but I guess R3 should work under cold temperature without any issue.

Thanks for your imputs.
Happy New Year!

Adam

It's been a fun year, and as I sit here in Asia waiting for the clock to strike 12 in less than 6 hours, I thought I'd write up a summary about 2024 here at CanonRumors.

There has been a ton of talk for probably a year now about an RF 200-500mm f/4L IS USM, and in more recent months, there has also been talking of a lens that would "cannibalize sales of an existing RF lens," but that wouldn't be the aforementioned f/4L "big white." As that lens will cost five figures.

The Canon EOS R6 Mark III has been talked about for quite some time, and it is coming in 2025. There has been some thought that we would see the camera announced ahead of CP+ in late February, but we're now being told not to expect an announcement until March at the earliest.

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Post your images takes with Canon's RF 85mm f/1.2L USM DS. A very close cousin to the RF 85mm f/1.2L USM, this lens differs only by the 'defocus smoothing' moniker indicating the use of apodization coatings on two of the elements. Apodization provides smoother, 'better' bokeh (to some eyes, since of course bokeh is subjective in nature) at the cost of some lost light transmission.

There has been debate here and elsewhere as to whether or not there is an effect of the DS coatings on depth of field. Perhaps I shouldn't open that can of worms, but the short version is that 1) apodization does increase the DoF (that's physics) and 2) the effect on DoF is of far less magnitude than the effect on light transmission. In other words, at f/1.2 the 85L DS loses about 1.4 stops of light (i.e., it exposes like an f/2 lens), but the DoF is only very slightly deeper than f/1.2 on the non-DS lens. However, in some scenes the perceptual effect of the blur circles being smaller with the DS lens gives the subjective impression that DoF is comparatively deeper. Like I said, it's a can of worms.

Probably for many people considering the choice between the 85L and the 85L DS, it comes down to use cases. If the intent is use in low light, the non-DS is the better choice because in low light that ~1.4 stops makes a real difference. If the intent is use as a portrait lens, the DS version may be the better choice since the whole purpose of the DS coatings is to improve the bokeh. That's really at the heart of the DoF debate, too – the smoother blur circles of the DS lens result in better bokeh, but since those blur circles are smaller, the magnitude of out-of-focus blur appears to be less with the DS lens. However, the latter is about quantity, and bokeh is about quality.

For me, the use case will be portraits where I want the highest quality of OOF blur, so the DS lens was the logical choice. It didn't hurt that the CPW price for the DS lens when I bought it was not only lower than the going price (CPW or not) for the non-DS version of the lens, it was lower even than Canon USA's price for the refurbished non-DS lens.

Here's an early shot with the lens to kick off the thread:

"Dove @ Christmas"

EOS R3, RF 85mm f/1.2L DS, 1/100 s, f/1.2, ISO 10000

Just for kicks, I compared bokeh balls on the tree behind our kitty with two other lenses, the RF 24-105/2.8 and the RF 28-70/2. These are 100% crops, the shots were taken from the same distance.



For the more OOF (and dimmer) lights at the top of the frame, you can see that the 85/1.2L DS shows just a soft blur, the 24-105/2.8 shows harder-edged circles with a brighter outer ring, and the 28-70/2 shows harder-edged circles with some onion-ring effects.

Some recent pics shot at the Grand Haven Michigan Lighthouse. Shot with the R5 Mk2 and RF 100-500 lens.

Let me know what you thing

GM recently announced they are moving out of the Renaissance Center. I decided to go down and take some pics. All are shot with the R5 Mk2 with the RF 10-20 f/4 lens.

At last! Biden's final and most important decree.

Hi all,

Let me make it simple and clear straight forward question like to start over

What is the best Canon cameras for birding [and wildlife]?

I prefer it to be a brand new and mirrorless rather than DSLR which is a thing of the past now.

Thanks

I bought the Pluot valve a few years ago for water drop photography, then forgot about it. Now I go to use it and realize I need the Pluto trigger and it appears the company has gone out of business. Has anybody tried it without trigger? Or any other better ideas?

Hello, I have been shooting outdoors in natural sunlight this morning with the electronic shutter with the EOS R7 + EF-S 18-135 nano USM... and I notice although it is very subtle, but there are some kind of horizontal stripes or bands in clear areas of the blue sky like the photo attached here. I couldn't tell if it does it at low or high shutter speeds... but it is natural light (NOT LED OR ARTIFICIAL LIGHT) could it be some small effect of the electronic shutter? it's like noise in the form of horizontal bands... With a mechanical shutter or EFCS this problem disappears completely... Is it normal? Thanks.

I attached in drive link the original cr3 file without edit of the photo of blue sky...


I think is electronic shutter and i haven't not worry?
Thanks.

Bill Claff of PhotonsToPhotos has analyzed the RAW files for the EOS R1 and produced data on how the R1 stacks up with the other Canon cameras and the competition.