Finally retiring the 5D3, would love RF migration gameplan tips

Hey all -- been a while! Trust you all have been well.

I'm finally taking the plunge on an R5 II after 12+ happy years with my 5D3. I've not ordered yet, but I'm getting my ducks in a row for gear I plan to sell / keep / replace. I think I've got a solid gameplan for my current lenses and accessories, but I was curious what best practices in migration you'd recommend.

A few questions specifically come to mind:
  • Are two LP-E6P batteries enough for a full day of vaca, sightseeing or landscape work? Presume I'm on the grid and can recharge each night.
    • Other than perhaps a random wildlife moment where I live (an odd fox or eagle), I almost never run high fps stills capture -- but that might only come up 2-3x a year.
  • Next to zero need for a rear CPL for what I shoot*, so I should get the control ring adaptor for my EF glass, right?
    • *I already have a 105 CPL for my front filtered Lee 4x6 holder, and that rarely gets used, about 1x a year
  • What's your trusted partner for selling old gear (the 5D3 body + EF lenses in particular)? A lot of online houses make it push-button easy, but their offer prices seem absolutely brutal. Is selling on FM's forum still at thing? Is there a new/better show in town?
And I'm always game to hear your tips, best practices and lessons learned from migrating. Thx as always.

- A
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Doubt for using/view HDR PQ IMAGES (EOS R7)

Hi people, let's see I have a doubt about the concept and I would like to understand and take advantage of the R7's ability to produce HDR PQ photos... I have 2 options or leave the quality in RAW in settings and activate the HDR PQ function with priority for D or D+ highlight tones ok? And the other option is to put quality only HEIF in settings... (With HDR PQ ACTIVATED)... DO I HAVE TO process that raw in dpp with HDR PQ enabled? I don't have an HDR monitor... but I do have a Samsung QLED 2021 TV that supports HDR 10 plus... can I see those enhanced HEIF or RAW/HEIF photos on the TV? By connecting the camera to the TV??? Or do I have to convert to JPG (HDR PQ) or HEIF (HDR PQ) first and then watch them on the TV??

Thanks

R6 froze on me twice today!

I was wondering if this has occured to anybody. I used my R6 with the original Canon BG-R10 grip attached this morning and failed on me twice. Blackout viewfinder with the IS constantly going in the EF 400 F2.8L IS II. To me suprise, turning the camera off did not help, the IS in the lens kept woking with a black viewfinder. Removing the batteries from the grip, then putting them back in instantly resolved the problem.
While it was a cold winter morning with -3 degrees in Celsius (26-26 F), I wouldn't consider that extreme cold. I have used the R6 in low temperatures like this before and never had an issue like this, although I did not have a battery grip back then.
I'm planning to switch to R3 in the future for other reasons, but I guess R3 should work under cold temperature without any issue.

Thanks for your imputs.
Happy New Year!

Adam

A look back at 2024

It's been a fun year, and as I sit here in Asia waiting for the clock to strike 12 in less than 6 hours, I thought I'd write up a summary about 2024 here at CanonRumors.

RF 100-500 f/4.5-7.1L IS USM equivalent with internal zoom coming?

There has been a ton of talk for probably a year now about an RF 200-500mm f/4L IS USM, and in more recent months, there has also been talking of a lens that would "cannibalize sales of an existing RF lens," but that wouldn't be the aforementioned f/4L "big white." As that lens will cost five figures.

RF 85mm f/1.2L USM DS

Post your images takes with Canon's RF 85mm f/1.2L USM DS. A very close cousin to the RF 85mm f/1.2L USM, this lens differs only by the 'defocus smoothing' moniker indicating the use of apodization coatings on two of the elements. Apodization provides smoother, 'better' bokeh (to some eyes, since of course bokeh is subjective in nature) at the cost of some lost light transmission.

There has been debate here and elsewhere as to whether or not there is an effect of the DS coatings on depth of field. Perhaps I shouldn't open that can of worms, but the short version is that 1) apodization does increase the DoF (that's physics) and 2) the effect on DoF is of far less magnitude than the effect on light transmission. In other words, at f/1.2 the 85L DS loses about 1.4 stops of light (i.e., it exposes like an f/2 lens), but the DoF is only very slightly deeper than f/1.2 on the non-DS lens. However, in some scenes the perceptual effect of the blur circles being smaller with the DS lens gives the subjective impression that DoF is comparatively deeper. Like I said, it's a can of worms.

Probably for many people considering the choice between the 85L and the 85L DS, it comes down to use cases. If the intent is use in low light, the non-DS is the better choice because in low light that ~1.4 stops makes a real difference. If the intent is use as a portrait lens, the DS version may be the better choice since the whole purpose of the DS coatings is to improve the bokeh. That's really at the heart of the DoF debate, too – the smoother blur circles of the DS lens result in better bokeh, but since those blur circles are smaller, the magnitude of out-of-focus blur appears to be less with the DS lens. However, the latter is about quantity, and bokeh is about quality.

For me, the use case will be portraits where I want the highest quality of OOF blur, so the DS lens was the logical choice. It didn't hurt that the CPW price for the DS lens when I bought it was not only lower than the going price (CPW or not) for the non-DS version of the lens, it was lower even than Canon USA's price for the refurbished non-DS lens.

Here's an early shot with the lens to kick off the thread:

"Dove @ Christmas"
Dove @ Christmas.jpg
EOS R3, RF 85mm f/1.2L DS, 1/100 s, f/1.2, ISO 10000

Just for kicks, I compared bokeh balls on the tree behind our kitty with two other lenses, the RF 24-105/2.8 and the RF 28-70/2. These are 100% crops, the shots were taken from the same distance.

BokehBalls.jpg

For the more OOF (and dimmer) lights at the top of the frame, you can see that the 85/1.2L DS shows just a soft blur, the 24-105/2.8 shows harder-edged circles with a brighter outer ring, and the 28-70/2 shows harder-edged circles with some onion-ring effects.
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Horizontal lines in outdoor with natural light (electronic shutter EOS R7)

Hello, I have been shooting outdoors in natural sunlight this morning with the electronic shutter with the EOS R7 + EF-S 18-135 nano USM... and I notice although it is very subtle, but there are some kind of horizontal stripes or bands in clear areas of the blue sky like the photo attached here. I couldn't tell if it does it at low or high shutter speeds... but it is natural light (NOT LED OR ARTIFICIAL LIGHT) could it be some small effect of the electronic shutter? it's like noise in the form of horizontal bands... With a mechanical shutter or EFCS this problem disappears completely... Is it normal? Thanks.

I attached in drive link the original cr3 file without edit of the photo of blue sky...


I think is electronic shutter and i haven't not worry?
Thanks.

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PhotonsToPhotos Results for the EOS R1

Bill Claff of PhotonsToPhotos has analyzed the RAW files for the EOS R1 and produced data on how the R1 stacks up with the other Canon cameras and the competition.

7artisans 10mm F2.8 II Full Frame Ultra Wide Angle Fisheye Lens

I am big fan of fisheye, and I picked this lens up even tough I have an 8-15mm EF Fisheye. My impressions so far:

1. All Manual all the time! The lens has no electronic contacts, so even the aperture is manual. Not really a problem with fisheye, but takes some getting used to.
2. Sharp!
3. Close Focus! This lens focuses much closer than Canon's 8-15mm opening some creative options.

1H7A2626 copy.jpeg

1H7A2621 copy.jpeg

Coma test for the RF 24mm f1.4L

I received my RF24mm f1.4L two days ago but it has been heavily overcast ever since except for a few minutes this evening. I ran outside and quickly took a few shots before the clouds completely covered up the sky. I was mainly interested in testing for coma because my main use will be nightscapes. Here is a shot. The stars in the upper right-hand corner are semi-distorted by the twigs in the Oak tree, but the stars in the upper left-hand corner were not interfered with. The shot was 10 seconds at f1.4 and ISO 400. I'm not 100% sure I had infinity focus perfect, but the clouds were moving in fast. The first photo shows the full, uncropped image. The second shows only the extreme upper left corner (about 1/8 of the vertical). I can't see any noticeable coma in the magnified image. I imagine others have been able to do a better test than this so please post your test. The weather is not supposed to clear up for another few days. Then I'll be able to take my time and get some nice night sky photos.
RF 24mm f1.4L sky.jpgRF 24mm f1.4L 1-8.jpg
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RF50/1.4 Reports from Everyone

If you've got thoughts on the 50/1.4, please share them.

Today was the first day of sale in Japan and mine showed up from Bic Camera. JPY212,850 or USD1,359 after points, including tax and shipping.

After an hour just running errands I'm pretty sure it's too big and heavy to always have in the backpack, unlike the 50/1.8. I was prepared for the size but not for the weight.

I won't have time for a week or two, but I will do a second generation of my old "SHOOTOUT" tests. (Search this forum for that word to see them.) The tests are just 55lp/mm, the limit of what can be captured given the R5's resolution. I test all exposure lengths stop by stop and wrote software that automatically grades contrast and sorts the images so you can actually see what the results look like, what the hit rate of keepers is, how good the keepers are, how good the ones that aren't keepers are, decide for yourself which are keepers, etc. etc. As for being second generation, I'll add corner test and tripod test, instead of merely testing hand-holding for the center.

I'm happy to admit it if I'm wrong, but my GUESS is that PROBABLY, despite the much higher MTF results, in practice it may not actually deliver significantly more sharpness handheld than the 50/1.8 We shall see. If I'm right about that, then the decision to keep only amounts to a question of having 67% more bokeh (me likey) and 60% the ISO (I don't think most shooters benefit here, given the outstandingly low-noise sensors).

But I can already predict that no-one with the 50/1.8 is going to sell the 1.8 when they get the 1.4, due to the weight and size. I can carry the 1.8 on the R5 and not even know it's in the backpack. With the 1.4 I can't seem to forget that it is.
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Canon software will require Login with Canon ID

Canon ID login will be required for Canon digital camera software and apps starting in the first half 2025. Customers must create a Canon ID to use these products and services. This will, in theory, make it easier for customers to manage their Canon products and services.

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Canon EOS R1 Field Report from Antarctica: A Wildlife Photographer’s Perspective

Backstory: I have been a full-time professional Nature and wildlife photographer for almost thirty years (www.jholko.com). I have specialised in Polar and sub-polar photography and have made over 100 expeditions to both the Arctic and Antarctic.

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