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Review: Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 DG II HSM

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<p>Bryan over at The Digital Picture has posted his review of the Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 DG II HSM. This is the widest rectilinear lens available for full frame Canon DSLRs. If you’re looking for a lens that will give a truly unique look, this will definitely fit the bill.</p>
<p><strong>Says The Digital Picture:

</strong><em>“This lens is not without some shortcomings, but what it offers is available in no other lens. The Sigma 12-24mm f/4.5-5.6 DG II HSM Lens is the widest angle rectilinear lens available in a Canon, Nikon, Sony or Sigma DSLR mount. This unique capability will allow you to capture images that would otherwise not be possible and the quality of Sigma 12-24 II images can be also-impressive.”</em><strong>

</strong></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Sigma-12-24mm-f-4.5-5.6-DG-II-HSM-Lens.aspx" target="_blank">Read the full review</a> | <a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M18N2U/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004M18N2U&linkCode=as2&tag=canorumo-20&linkId=UYDN5QJXKVSPBEE2" target="_blank">Sigma 12-24 f/4.5-5.6 DG II at Amazon</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

What has been your experience: Best online place to sell lenses?

Gang,

I've had a 24-70 F2.8L I sitting unused since I opted for the 24-70 F/4L IS (which is a joy to use, by the way). I made up my mind to sell it some time ago.

So I went through one online quoting process with a few folks -- KEH, B&H, Adorama, etc. -- and kept seeing quotes of X and the same lens being sold at the same sites for 1.5X.

I lack the eBay time to rack up happy customers, and I'm told that eBay is a customer-tilted justice system in which I may be found guilty without a proper trial.

So I am asking: what is the easiest way to sell lenses that minimizes drama, maximizes simplicity, and doesn't involve me giving it away for nothing.

Easy question, right?

Annnnnnnd: Go!

- A

Pocketwizard Firmware Beta available for 1DX, 6D and 70D

I was happy to see that Pocketwizard has finally released a firmware update (Beta) to make the Pocketwizard MiniTT1 and FlexTT5 for Canon fully compatible with my 1DX (as well as the 6D and 70D). (see www.pocketwizard.com left side of the page). I'm planning to download the firmware updates and give them a try later this week.

In the meantime, I am wondering if anyone has already downloaded and tested the firmware update with the 1DX?
If so:
1. Do you get full compatibility with the AC3 controller as well?
2. What's the fastest Hypersync shutter speed you have been able to obtain?
3. Any problems identified?

I look forward to hearing from the community and to trying it out myself.

Where do you buy 5D Mark iii?

Hi Everyone,

I have classic 5D and am looking to buy Mark iii, but the full price of the body is still way over my budget. Where do you buy yours with discount?

I was looking at some offers on ebay and they look good, but they are all not USA market cameras, meaning that if Canon issues recall I won't be able to use it here in the states. Some listings offer extended warranty for parts and labor (it won't cover recalls). Did any of you have experience buying camera with extended warranty? Did you have any problems with the camera?

For example, I am looking at such deal: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-Digital-SLR-Camera-Body-Mark-3-MK-III-NEW-/301194152432?pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item46209209f0

Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

6D problem with overexposed top of the frame at cca 1/1000s and faster

Hi,

I was out this Saturday and took some photos. Now I'm looking at them and some have overexposed stripe on the top of the frame. Examples are attached, unprocessed, except resize (raw has it as well).

I was using 6D and 135mm f2 L (no filter, hood on). the only settings pattern I noticed is that its on images taken at 1/1000s or faster (tiny bit is visible at 1/800s, but it doesn't get bigger at e.g. 1/3200s).

I quickly swapped it for 50mm f1.8, did one shot at 1/640s, it was OK, than one at 1/1600s, the overexposed stripe is there...

Any idea what was wrong, what did I wrong?

Thank you!

Stig

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1Ds mark III sensor has hundreds of dead/hot pixels.

Hi every experts!
I bought a second-hand 1Ds mark iii, which was manufactured in 2008.
Yesterday, I tested it for dead pixels, to find out that it has a lot of dead/hot pixels. The shutter speed is 30s, ISO 200, with body cap on and viewfinder closed. There are 101 dead pixels, and 924 hot pixels.
The situation will be worse when increase the iso number.
I have used the "clean sensor manually" hoursly. But still few luck.

Please help me love ef 35mm f2 IS vs 40mm pancake

I recently got a 10 month old 35mm f2 IS. On top of my two month old 40mm pancake.

I love the pictures coming out from pancake when it came, so sharp, so cute, so light, no distortion, i can make head shots with no enlarge parts.
6D and 40mm combination as light as like i was holding my nexus 7.

Recently, I invested on 35mm f2 IS.
I could not love the pictures at f2, portrait subject is not sharp, and its just giving me a headache looking at it.
at f2.8 picture almost identical on both lens.
I shoot 1/60 and faster so i eliminate the love for IS.

Field of view wise, with 40mm i can take one step backward and field of view is the same.

Maybe I'm doing it wrong. And need more time to play with 35mm. Or I could rent a 35L and see how it fairs.

again f2 is not a keeper at all. or my copy is not sharp as per normal.

Patent: 45x Zoom for Waterproof Camera

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<p>This patent may show where the next PowerShot D series camera is heading. Below is a patent for a 45x zoom lens that is for a waterproof/dustproof application.</p>
<ul style="color: #444444;">
<li><strong>Patent Publication No. 2014-109664 (Google Translated)</strong>
<ul>
<li>Publication date 2014.6.12</li>
<li>Filing date 2012.11.30</li>
<li>Related 2014-109665,2014-109666</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li>Example 1
<ul>
<li>Zoom ratio 44.41</li>
<li>Focal length f = 4.62-13.02-205.00mm</li>
<li>Fno. 3.91-6.14-9.00</li>
<li>Half angle ω = 36.14-16.58-1.08 °</li>
<li>99.33-103.38-113.64mm overall length of the lens</li>
<li>BF 12.11-10.81-4.28mm</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2014-07-19" target="_blank">EG</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: rgb(255, 0, 0);">c</span>r</strong></p>

Bare bulb mod of YN-560 III (with pictures)

I decided to try and see what happened if I modified the brilliant Yongnuo YN-560 III to bare bulb. End result was interesting, large modifiers are better filled and amount of light has increased by between 1/3 to 1/2 stop depending on modifier (bigger effect in softbox than brolly). Light has also turned a bit cooler as one of the fresnel lenses is slightly warming. The quality of light seemed a little better with less of a central hot spot and somewhat softer in a softbox and a fair bit harder in my PLM knock off (hobo lighting 163cm parabolic silver umbrella). I wonder if this is because there was less light spillage around the umbrella bouncing off the small room I was testing it in.

Now for pictures (first is clicky for all the pictures in the series):

Bare bulb modyfiying the Yongnuo YN-560 III flash

The flash before modding it. Please be aware that you could potentially electrocute yourself doing this if you don't know how to make sure the capacitor is empty. You could obviously ruin your flash as well, don't blame me in either case.

14578268884_bd1315bc11_c.jpg


Taking off the side strips of rubber and metal clamps holding it in place

14393435528_b19d80d324_c.jpg


14578270524_ba6c30772a_c.jpg


14579294582_865a84256d_c.jpg


Completely disassembled. The wire on the left either needs to be soldered off the board and then back on again, cut and rejoined or the cage holding the flash tube and reflector in place to be cut open to let you take out the flash tube.

14393389080_49601c4051_c.jpg


Cutting an aluminium blanking to replace the fresnel lens. 1.2mm aluminium sheet is ideal thickness. I used a standard hacksaw and metal file to finish the edges. I also tried polishing it with a dremel but results weren't good as the surface became more dull.

14579299052_b61f627fc1_c.jpg


Blanking plate together with a piece of 32mm wide acrylic tube with 2mm thick walls cut in half. Piece is 60mm long.

Holes drilled, one is 5mm and the other 6mm. The larger hole is needed to pass the flash tube through and the smaller is perfect size to use the rubber retainers to protect the wires.

14580046525_6550bea24e_c.jpg


14393328860_44a3ab4e65_c.jpg


All fitted back together. I elected to cut the wire and solder it back together to avoid soldering on the PCB. This may increase resistance and decrease flash power slightly but I took that chance instead of risking ruining the flash. Rubber retainer has been cut in half as otherwise it wouldn't fit and the pieces are held in place with a bit of electrical tape on the backside. The white plastic basket holding the flash tube and reflector may need some bits snipped out of the sides to leave enough space to pass the wires up. Acrylic tube was glued on with epoxy glue as it would bond better between the uneven edge of the acrylic and the aluminium than super gluing (some poor sawing by me).

Total cost - about £5 with offcuts and epoxy glue off ebay and I still have enough parts to do another three flashes. It took about three hours in total as I was trying things as I went along and I don't have anywhere proper to work on these projects. If you have a normal work bench and know what you are doing I'm pretty sure you could knock one out in half an hour or so.

YN-622C and 580EX II MAJOR issues

I've been having MAJOR problems with the Yongnuo YN-622C and my 580EX IIs. I have two 580EX IIs and both of them have now gone out on me, multiple times. One of them has gone out at LEAST 5 times. I'm honestly starting to lose track now. I keep sending them back to Canon for repair.

Anyways, after reading an article that was posted by a company that was doing testing for this same problem with Pocketwizards, I figured that it was an inherent problem with the 580EX II and using it with off-camera high-speed sync, or off-camera ETTL. The thing is, I wasn't using them with HSS, nor was I "cranking" away on them.

So anyways, I decided that I would try out the YN-622C on-camera, with the 580EX II on top of it. No HSS. No fast shooting. So just a basic pass-through mode, both of them mounted on-camera. STILL went out on me -- after ONE shot!! The 580EX II is doing the same thing.....AGAIN. It seems to be firing the pre-flash at full power and then the ETTL exposure comes out completely dark. Then, in manual mode, it fires full power.

Every time Canon repairs them, they say that they are replacing the battery housing and battery door......? What the heck. How could the YN-622C be causing this problem?

I'm BEYOND frustrated with this. I'm ready to throw those flashes in the garbage disposal.

Albuquerque Panoramas by Hollywood Film Maker (Revised Link)

Here's a short video feature on an award winning movie maker turned landscape photog. He's an Albuquerque resident (transplant from LA) making a very good business for himself.

BTW, notice his choice of camera/lens combination, and his (homemade) tripod mount!

Sorry, the original link didn't work very well! Here's a link that actually works on YouTube:

Health scare leads artist to world-renowned art

Canon 24-70 f/4L IS disappointing?

Hi all

I've been playing with a Canon 24-70 4L IS for the last few weeks and comparing it to my old Sigma 24-70 2.8 EX DG HSM. I haven't had that much time to do comparisons but so far I'm struggling to be impressed by the 24-70 4L IS. I was hoping - expecting really - it would be a clear step up from the Sigma, but it's closer than that. I know I'm pixel peeping but still, U have to say I was expecting more from a Canon L (especially after lenses like the 70-200 2.8 IS II, and non-L lenses like the 35 2 IS).

Trying to sum it up:

At f/2.8 the Sigma is pretty good at 24mm, but it gets steadily worse as the focal length increases. The drop off in sharpness and contrast by 70mm is significant.

At f/4, the Sigma shows a clear improvement over 2.8 across the whole focal length range. The quality still drops as the focal length increases but the drop off is less significant than at 2.8.

At f/4, the Canon is good at 24mm, but by 35mm the quality has dropped noticeably. By 50mm I'd go so far as to call it poor - certainly for sharpness, if not so much for contrast. It improves again by 70mm, but it doesn't get back to the standard it set at 24mm. I would say the Sigma wins at f/4 at 50mm and perhaps even 35mm.

From various reviews, I expected the Canon to be weaker towards the middle of its range, but looking at the LensRentals' resolution tests I thought it would still be pretty decent there. What has surprised me is just how poor it seems towards the middle of its focal length range. I think I'm still leaning towards keeping the Canon and selling the Sigma - because the Canon's IS has its uses, it's a bit lighter, it's better at 24mm and 70mm, and it's got its semi-macro mode for a bit of fun. That said, the Sigma's f/2.8 has its uses too - even if the quality drops towards the longer end of the focal length range - and I'd get more if sold the Canon.

Anyone else really disappointed with the 24-70 4L IS in the middle of its focal length range? For those who are happy with their 4L ISs, are you genuinely happy with them at 50mm? Have I got a poor copy? Hhmmm, I don't want to pay for the Canon 24-70 2.8L II and I'm uncertain about the Tamron 2.8 VC (my brother has one). Maybe I should just keep my Sigma? Or look for a 2nd-hand 24-105 4L IS?

Thanks for any thoughts.

4K Video Capture Coming to the EOS 5D Mark IV? [CR1]

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<p>The EOS 5D Mark IV received a mention recently as possibly being announced in early 2015. One of the features mentioned as a possibility is 4K video capture. Although, I’m pretty sure every future Canon DSLR is going to be rumored to shoot 4K video.</p>
<p><strong>CR’s Take

</strong>If the EOS 5D Mark IV is coming in early 2015 as this rumor suggests, then I cannot see 4K being a part of the feature set. I don’t think we’ll see 4K video recording in a “prosumer” level DSLR from Canon until the technology moves down the Cinema EOS line.</p>
<p>I asked someone in the know recently if Canon had market research on who buys the EOS 5D Mark III and for what purpose. I was told that the videographer focused purchaser of the EOS 5D Mark III was less than 10% of the total sales. The camera is, and has always been, for the still photographer.</p>
<p>If Canon wants to grow in cinema and 4K capture, and they do, then they have a whole new line of cameras that is one generation into its existence to add these and other features to at various price points.</p>
<p>My 2 cents anyway…. :)</p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://www.canonwatch.com/canon-eos-5d-mark-iv-come-4k/" target="_blank">CW</a>] via [<a href="http://blog.planet5d.com/2014/07/canon-5d-mark-iv-might-feature-4k-video/?hvid=4bop0K" target="_blank">P5D</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Sigma to Enter the World of Cinema Lenses?

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<p>Is Sigma getting ready to enter the world of professional cinema lenses? It seems like a logical next step for the manufacturer, as they have become quite aggressive in the higher end DSLR space. While Sigma didn’t flat out say they were entering the market, they also didn’t deny it.</p>
<p>Sigma’s CEO Kazuto Yamaki left the following hint recently in an interview with <a href="http://resourcemagonline.com/2014/07/sigma-photo/#_am8vg5sm" target="_blank">Resource Magazine</a>:</p>
<p><em>“How could one of the greatest innovators of lens technology in the world not be producing lenses for high-end digital video and motion picture cameras? With such high standards, cinematographers seem like a natural market for Sigma. When I asked Kazuto about this, he simply smiled and said the two words that make every tech writer crave more: “No comment.” It looks like Sigma may still has a few more tricks up their sleeve…”</em></p>
<p>Source: [<a href="http://resourcemagonline.com/2014/07/sigma-photo/#_am8vg5sm" target="_blank">RM</a>] via [<a href="http://sigma-rumors.com/2014/07/sigma-produce-cinema-lenses/" target="_blank">SR</a>]</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Adopting a MF system.

I have been saving my monies for along time to adopt a MF system to replace one of my 5D3's for dedicated Staged Photo usage. I have a budget of 8K to start a system and this is what I liked so far.

What I'd Like out of the system

1. Sync Speed
2. Prolonged Shelf life. (How long can I use it before no Backs work for it or other pitfalls.)
3. Repair & Upkeep Costs
4. Len's Selection vs Pricing
5. ??? Anything else I should consider?

Hasselblad H2D + 39mp Kodak Back + HV90x Viewfinder + 80mm HC F/2.8 - More or less around 8K.

Or should I consider Phase One? They're alittle more pricey though...

Alot of options but I'd like to know what system I should choose.

HUMIDITY ALERT!

Hello Everyone,


Finally confronted with a problem (?) serious enough to post my first topic / question on the CR Forum:

I moved to Kansai (the South of Japan) recently, and summer here is proving to be a bit of a challenge! The temperature is climbing and climbing (god knows were it will stop) but what's worse, it is getting very humid here (75% and going up).
I live in an old (crappy :-[ Japanese house, and the humidity is creeping in from morning, and hardly leaves at night!

So I am beginning to worry about my gear...

Could you kind people give me some advice as to what one can do to protect his equipment against this invisible enemy ?

I am especially worried about my lenses getting some kind of fungus growth or other humidity related damage (summer here apparently lasts until well into October!!)

Thanks a lot for the input!

Tamron lenses --> annoying zoom ring

Hi guys,

i got my hands on some Tamron lenses recently, concrete the 24-70mm, the 70-300mm and the 70-200mm VC. And there is an issue, i want to talk about: the zoom ring. What's bothering me is the fact, that the zoom ring isn't close to the camera, it is switched with the focus ring and sits at the far end of the lens now. So i've got to stretch out my left arm way more to reach the zoom ring. I'm uncomfortable with it, because in my feeling it is much less stable than if i grab the zoom near the camera. Furthermore the focus ring sits so close next to the zoom ring, i nearly turned it too, when i grabed and turned the zoom ring.

I thing, the tamron lenses are totally interesting, but there issues are really bothering me.
What about you? Did you have any concerns about the arrangement of the rings on your tamron lenses, especially when you were coming from the canon counterpart? How did you deal with it? Or was it never disturbing for you?

Thanks for your answers.

Survey: Preferences on LCD displays on back of DSLR bodies

I started a survey on a 7D2 rumor thread, but thought I'd increase my hits by having a standalone posting.

Head here for my simple and fast survey re: displays on the back of DSLR bodies. I'm trying to segment everyone's take on touch vs. no touch, rigid vs. tilty-swively, etc.

https://www.surveymonkey.com/s/TK65Z2Y
(I did this offsite to get more than one question asked with a multiple checkbox response, that's all)

Everyone can participate once, and then repeating the link should show the results. It's interesting so far, but I'd like more responses if you have 90-120 seconds to give. It's fast.

Thanks,
A

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