So, when the Canadian dollar got larger than the American a few years back, it pulled the pants down on the publishing and auto industries' price gouging of Canadians. Seems that camera/lens makers got the message too in large part. But why not filter manufacturers? Why are most filters two to three times the price in Canada what they are in the US? Anyhow, I'd never, ever buy a new filter in Canada. It's ridiculous. Rant over.

I thought I'd start a thread for the upcoming holidays, whatever holidays one chooses, with a focus on colour. Abstraction isn't a sine qua non, but I wasn't sure where else to fit it.

Hi everyone,
not sure this would be in the right category but I have written a small review of the Surface Pro 3 being used in a photographer workflow and especially in the mindset of travel photography. I am leaving soon on a rather big trip for a long time and I have to be able to process my images on the go without carrying a heavy laptop.
Maybe what I think about the Surface can help you make a decision! Also, it's one of my first gear reviews so do not hesitate to give me comments or suggestions on how to improve, cheers!
here it is:
http://blog.fredericseguin.com/blog/2014/11/10/review-of-the-microsoft-surface-pro-3

Frederic

Interesting sales technique - offer 46 lenses but have only the 5 most boring in stock. Very disappointing.

John

I have been using the Sigma 35 mm f/1.4 Art Series lens over the last year. Sometimes it produces really sharp keepers and on other occasions every image is out of focus. Recently I have undertaken AFMA calibration on a variety of lenses using Focal in order to investigate this. I was not surprised to get these results for my Sigma 35 Art.

Distance to target AFMA required Focal result confidence
1 metre -3 Excellent
2 metre +4 Good
3 metre +2 Good
4 metre 0 Good


In contrast all but one of my Canon lenses when tested with my EOS 6D require a very consistent AFMA setting at different subject distances.

Having researched the Sigma USB dock, I thought that it allowed AFMA calibration of the lens at up to 4 different distances. I thought that this could solve the problem. BUT on trying my lens in the dock it appears that it is not possible for the user to select what these distances are ?!

In the case of my 35 mm lens this will make the dock calibration process of little benefit. If for example I use optimization pro to set AFMA at infinity and at 0.75 M then the calibration will be correct at these distances and off in between 1 and 4 metres. I am struggling to understand the logic of optimization pro since with a 35 mm lens if you are using it for photographing people then you are going to need to work within this distance range. Why have three of the four AFMA distances for this lens at less than 1 metre when any close up/macro type work is likely to use MF anyway ?

At present when shooting wide open I have AFMA = 0 and use the 35 mm exclusively around 1.5 metres distance to subject. At other distances then I have to change either the AFMA setting or use MF or stop down significantly. Hardly an ideal arrangement!

I would appreciate any help as regards:
1) Is there a way of adjusting the lens AFMA calibration distances in the Optimization Pro software?
2) Has anyone had a similarly performing lens and had any success with sending it back to Sigma for calibration – did this improve the AFMA consistency with distance ?

Do any Canon cameras (or any other manufacturers' cameras for that matter) have an option to provide the user with the hyperfocal distance for the camera's current lens focal length and F-stop settings? I would find this to be a useful function, and even better if the camera could, on operator command, set the lens to the hyperfocal distance (don't know if lenses are sufficiently calibrated to allow for this). If a smart phone app can calculate the hyperfocal distance, I see no reason why the camera manufacturers couldn't program their cameras to do it.

I'd love to hear user's/owner's thoughts about their 300mm f/2.8 prime lenses, version I or II. I would be buying version II, but I'm most interested in learning more about this particular FL. Note I currently shoot with a 5DIII, and my go-to portrait lens is the ef 70-200mm /f2.8 IS II.

I'm a sucker for fast primes, but I'm mainly a portrait photographer who occasionally shoots weddings. For passionate fun, I do as much landscape as I can find time for.

I know only what I've read on the web and heard in Arthur Morris workshops about the 300mm's.

To me, the focal length seems too short for nature and most sports, while being too long for portraits. I could see it useful at weddings where natural light is all that is allowed, but don't see any examples of such use...

I've read Justin's very helpful review, and I see his examples of portraits as reasons to be wary. Note that I'm not intending to get into bird photography, but would be doing some "citizen journalism" from time to time.

Also, I've read a couple of good threads here about using TC's and the options of going longer, so please don't talk much about those tangent topics.

I'd really like to read your thoughts about the ef 300mm 2.8 lenses--and see some samples. Thanks!

Hi Guys... in a quandary. I have a 7D with 10-22mm lens, etc. Getting on now after 3 years of reasonably heavy use and generally happy but hitting the limit with noise/wide aperture lens. I do nightscapes, sea/landscapes but also some action shots (not published). Going full frame was the next step especially for low noise with wide angle/wide aperture so the 6D was the obvious next step for me but 7D mark II sensor seems to be as good with noise and has all the new goodies as well. 1 body would be nice rather than 6D + current 7D.

6D pros => more expensive as need new wide angle 16-35mm f/4 (options for 14mm samyang f/2.8, 8-15mm etc), wifi, better DoF
7D mark II pros => keep same lens set (10-22mm is the best one), very good AF (+f8 centre)/burst, much better video, wifi only with eyefi, SD+CF, very good weather sealing, flash

Thoughts?

SUMMARY OF COMMENTS => horses for courses. totally different end user market.
6D best for landscape/portrait with low light/high ISO/depth of field but low ISO dynamic range is not fantastic. Lens range is best for FF
7Dii best for AF/action/video. 7Dii should be better than 7D for everything.
Worth the wait for 6Dii?

Thanks
David.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/davidmarriottsydney/
7D, 10-22mm, 24-105L, 70-200L II, 50mm f/1.4, 1.4xIII, 600EX-RT

Has anyone tried this?
Thoughts on Yongnuo expanding into lenses?

http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-EF-YN-50mm-1-8/dp/B00QGHSGPW/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1417977023&sr=8-11

I started putting together a new bird setup in my back yard a little while back. I haven't had much of a chance to use it yet, but, I did to some shooting at 1200mm f/8+ on the 5D III. At first I was a little dismayed by the sharpness, thinking the 2x TC was really costing me too much detail. However a little bit of tweaking took care of that.

Not the greatest of shots...that day had poor lighting (and it was backlighting), but here is an example of the original shot:



And here is the shot after sharpening (and a little bit of other processing):



Here is a closeup of the original:



And again after sharpening:



The softness present in the original image is pretty much gone after the sharpening. And that's for 1200mm f/10 ISO 1600.

Here is a 100% crop. The lighting, as I said, was horrible...the highlights along the back top of the birds head pushed down the rest of the exposure, and I was already at ISO 1600. So the noise in the background looks bad (I just used LR to denoise, and there is a specific reason why the noise in the background looks so bad...see below...I have other tools that should do a better job, but I haven't bothered yet):



I know a lot of photographers worry about using the 2x TC III on their lenses (one that can take it and still AF, anyway). I don't use it all that often myself, but after seeing how well the detail in this image sharpened up, I am pretty convinced, at least within around 60-80 feet or so, use of the 2x TC need not be accompanied by softer images. It should be noted that I did have to use a fairly high sharpening radius, 2.3 in this case. I normally use much lower radii, 1.0-1.3 tops most of the time. Some times I've even reduced the radius. To fully eliminate the softening, a larger radius was required. One thing that should be noted...the use of a larger radius has a negative effect on noise...it makes noise harder to remove, and sometimes it exhibits artifacts. I think in the long run, for images like this, I'll convert to TIFF, denoise first, then sharpen, which should avoid most of that problem.

So I've outgrown my kit lens (still having fun with my zoom tho). I"m looking for a good prime. I would do general stuff with it, but I like taking candid and/or portraits. I would like something that does well with low light. I had a 35mm with my Nikon that did that well. I'm reading the 50 f/1.8 is cheaply built, might look at the f/1.4 or even the 40mm pancake or even an 85mm?

Dear Friends.
I try to not spend the big money for Canon Flash ring light =$ 650 US Dollars for Canon MT 24EX Ring Light/Macro Flash.
Yes, One day after go to Advance Auto Parts store and see Chinese made LED pocket flash light = $ 2.50 US Dollars, Yes, I buy 6 of them for $ 16 US Dollars, and try to create the LED Ring/ Flash Lights.
Here is my DIY , and so bright for 6-8 feet Portrait Photos too, Not only Macro Photos which I can turn on just 1 flashlight to 6 Flash Lights.
Yes, Sir/ Madam = It work for me.
Have Fun.
Surapon

Hello all-

I'm at a bit of a purchasing impasse and I'm hoping you can help. I'm looking to make a big purchase or two between now and mid-January, with a mind to use it/them on trips I have scheduled throughout the year.

I'm photographing snowy owls in Canada in January, Iceland in February, eagles in Utah followed by mammals in Teton in March, an abandoned prison in April, Glacier NP/Yellowstone NP in June, storms in AZ in July, whales/puffins in Maine in August, and 9/11 in NYC by helicopter in September.

My current gear is Canon 5D3, 17TS-E, 16-35L 2.8, 24-70L II, 70-200L IS II, and a 50 1.8 II. I have both the 1.4 TC III and 2.0 TC III, and 3x600EX-RT, as well as the SR-E3-RT. I'm in the process of selling the 16-35 for the new 16-35L IS (I don't find myself needing 2.8).

I enjoy nature/wildlife photography, landscape, portraiture, and travel.

So with that said, I'm looking at the 300 IS II or 500 IS (ver 1) refurb or lightly used respectively, and a 7D II. I could also consider the 500 IS II if I forgo a 2nd body. I'm torn. The 300 II option would see use for more stuff, no doubt, but I feel I'd need the 7D II for reach (?). For the cost of both I could get the 500 IS II.

With either 500, it's a purely wildlife lens. With the 300 I can see portrait, some sports, even tele landscape stuff too. Of course, I'm also looking at the 85L, 135L, and 100L macro, so portrait use isn't critical.

If anyone can offer some advice, it'd be much appreciated.

Side question: I was looking at MTF charts. Is 16-35L IS looking sharper than 24TSE? I'm no good at those charts.

(CR Forum admin, please don't tuck this into the currently running TR thread again -- this is a NEW video from a couple days ago about what gear to buy. It's not the same video about switching from Canon to Nikon. Thank you!)

Our favorite camera pundit is at it again:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=subDtZIRmnE

Best witty comeback to his latest opus earns my undying respect.

...annnnnnd Go!

- A

Greetings, all. Here are some bird-in-flight shots I got during a couple of recent trips to one of my favorite birding locations. I used the 7D mark II, 500 f/4 + 1.4x, hand held. All shot in Manual Mode (it's the only mode I use) Thanks for looking

Short-Eared Owl in late evening light - 5.6, 1/2000, ISO 1600



Short-Eared Owl hunting the marsh - 5.6, 1/2000, ISO 1600



Trumpeter Swan pair in evening - 5.6, 1/2000, ISO 1600



Trumpeter Swan individual closeup - 7.1, 1/2000, ISO 800

Hello All,
In the last couple of days I have had the 7d Mark ii I have twice had it freeze on me and the display said F00. Both times with the 400 5.6 attached. Anyone else having problems? I've never had a problem with the lens before.
(I'm also finding a lot of shots look soft and a little bit like motion blur, even for static objects at 1/1600. I'm hoping it's an AFMA issue. But it's not a problem I ever had with my 600d with the same lens, which were always crystal clear.)
Thanks!

Hi Everyone:

I am 99% certain to add my final lens for the foreseeable future by tomorrow - the 16-35 f4L.

For the fine folks here who already own that lens, have you purchased a UV or Protector filter (slim) to complete the front seal as recommended by Canon?

If yes, did you get the either UV or Protector (clear) filter? Which one is better? The slim B+W isn't really that cheap.

If no, what's the reason?

Thanks. G.A.S. isn't cured with the 24-70II from 3 weeks ago...I say "sc**w saving money this Christmas, I want it..." :'(

Hello everyone.

I just got my 7d mark ii and I noticed there's a sound in the pop up flash module when I turn the camera from landscape to portrait. It sound like something is moving from side to side. But when I pop the flash up and turn the camera from side to side (landscape to portrait), the noise is gone.

Is this something to worry about, or is this common for the 7d mark ii?

After the release of the D810 Tony was ready to sell off all of his Canon gear and go to Nikon. Then he found out that switching to Nikon required you to also buy Nikon lenses, which are just not as good. So reluctantly he has to stay with Canon. Amazingly it turns out that Canon lenses are hands down major winners head to head. I guess the little extra DR couldn't overcome the lens issue. This really amazes me that you would sell all of your stuff as new technology comes out not knowing what is going to come next.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jva08HY6uLE

Does anyone here have any knowledge, memory or experience with on the average just how long it usually takes for a Canon DSLR body to start showing up on the Canon Store refurbished list?

Finally got the 6D, thanks to B&H's awesome offer. However, I wish I had gone with Adorama, if only for the appalling service from UPS in my neighborhood (I believe Adorama uses FedEx). So they delivered the printer (which is already sold ;D ) but not the 6D, which was in the truck all that time :

Anyway, with that rant out of the way- I have two questions:
1. How fast a card do I need for the 6D? I am guessing the fps will not be a problem, but if I (ever) shoot video, I don't want it to stutter. On the other hand, I don't want to spend unnecessarily on a higher end card. So can you let me know what cards work without a problem?
2. Will the 5D classic's L bracket work with the 6D? I wouldn't expect so, and wouldn't have asked the question- but someone who owned both had once told this and I wanted to verify before selling the L bracket with my outgoing 5D and spending $$$s on another L bracket.
Thanks in advance!

I just finished a review of the Zeiss Planar T* 50mm f/1.4 as kind of a counterpoint to the Sigma 50 review. The Zeiss is a few years older (2010) and a very different kind of lens. It isn't nearly as sharp as the Sigma at wide apertures, but does have better bokeh and very nice "drawing. If nothing else, it makes for yet another option in the 50mm market.

Written Review: http://bit.ly/1Al8ouQ
Image Gallery: http://bit.ly/1Al9SoY
YouTube: http://bit.ly/1BgTx7V

Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 Planar T* Review by Thousand Word Images by Dustin Abbott, on Flickr

Zeiss 50mm f/1.4 Planar T* by Thousand Word Images by Dustin Abbott, on Flickr

I have a 5DM3 and a wedding to shoot in June, I'm going to need a second body and I'm loathed to buy another 5DM3...

Not because I don't think it'll do the job, it's because it seems old and boring.. I am interested in the latest technology and ideally I want to be using it (but not so much that I'd buy a new camera every 6 months).

I also have numerous Canon lenses, so switching to Nikon would not be a decision made lightly.

If Canon announced a 5DM4 and it was actually exciting, my decision would probably be easy.. but as it stands, I'm not sure.

http://delightphoto.zenfolio.com/blog/2014/12/ttl-or-not-ttl-shooting-ttl-with-off-camera-flash

Recently I did some test with the Yongnuo stuff: 2 Flashes and T2 Transceivers + a very charming controller for 350.- €...

Excellent build quality and easy to use... => fun!!!