Threads

Janbo Makimbo · Nov 23, 2013

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2013-11-23/photographer-wins-2412-mln-from-companies-that-took-pics-off-/5112824

rama · Nov 23, 2013

I’m going to Galapagos Islands next summer. I’ll bring two bodies (Canon 7D and T2i) but I don’t know the best lenses to chose for this trip.

I have these lenses (all in Canon) : 300mm 2.8 II, 100-400mm, 24-105mm and 100Lmm macro.

I guess I have to bring the 24-105mm and the 300mm. Am I right?

Thank you

Cory · Nov 23, 2013

There's not enough "prime vs zoom" threads so what's your thoughts on a Canon 100 2.0 and 200 2.8 II, lets say, vs a Canon 70-200 2.8 non-IS (on full frame if that matters)? And then, consequently, your thoughts on the 70-200 2.8 image quality vs that of the 70-200 2.8 IS II with the IS turned off.

:-\

steliosk · Nov 23, 2013

Hi again,
i'm playing a bit with an 85mm f/1.8 at 1.8
I'm having a 5D3 and i use this kind of setup for head portraits. so here are my worries:

There are two choices: spot AF and point AF

so let me see if i get it straight:

The spot AF is used for tiny subjects like eye lashes and it can be more accurate than the point AF. Right?

which one do you use for portrait shots? or it doesn't matter?

after playing a bit with both, the point AF hit the target better than the spot AF, or is it just me? i'm a bit confused.

drmikeinpdx · Nov 23, 2013

I've said good things about the Tamron 28-75 before, since it was the only lens that would really focus well on my persnickety old 5D Classic.

I've had my 5D3 for about a year. About six months ago I figured the 5D3 deserved an L zoom so I picked up a 24-105, F/4. It's a great lens, very sharp, with fast autofocus and effective IS. My old Tamron sat on the shelf.

Recently I was doing a long studio shoot and started to feel the size and weight of the 24-105. For the next shoot I decided to try the much smaller and lighter Tamron. I was surprised to see how well it worked.

The autofocus isn't quite as fast as the 24-105 and it does make a little bit of noise, but not enough to be noticeable in the middle of a photoshoot. The important thing as that the images are very sharp. Of course, I'm shooting with strobes that prevent motion blur and I'm using enough light to permit apertures around F 5.6, so even a cheap lens will create sharp photos. Under these conditions, at least for me, an L lens is overkill.

Since the Tamron is considerably smaller and lighter than the Canon, I am a happier photographer during a studio shoot. I will still use the stabilized 24-105 for outdoor shoots, but in the studio, I'm back to the old Tamron, which, by the way, I picked up on Craigslist for $260 about three years ago.

This photo was at F/3.5, 53mm, ISO 100 (Alien Bees with umbrellas). I wanted to see if the Tamron would substitute for my 50mm Sigma in shallow DOF portrait situations. I think I actually dialed back the sharpening in Lightroom.

mkabi · Nov 22, 2013

I don't even know why I'm asking this here, but we will see if anyone knows the answer.

Do you really need a 4K TV to view 4K?

I mean, I view a lot of online stuff, and my monitor's resolution is only 1280X1024.
We all know the difference between 480p and 1080p, and you can see the difference even between 720p and 1080p. And, this is all through youtube. Anyway, I've been watching plenty of 2.5K videos on vimeo... the video is so pristine... and thats on my 1280X1024 monitor...

Similarly, there is a huge difference between a blu-ray movie that is 1080p and a dvd movie that is 1080p.

Canon Rumors · Nov 22, 2013

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<strong>From Canon Canada


</strong>Canon Canada has launched a new CPS program aimed at students.</p>
<p><em>Canon’s Student CPS Program is designed to offer an unrivalled level of sales and service support for studying Photographers, Videographers, and New Media Artists. By becoming a member of Student CPS, you will be eligible for a host of real world benefits designed to help and assist post-secondary Visual Arts, Fine Arts, and Applied Arts students in mastering their craft and achieving their career aspirations.</em></p>
<p><strong>Some of the benefits include</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Access to student-specific pricing discounts on a selection of professional products – view list in Program Details</li>
<li>Membership-exclusive promotions, discounts and contests</li>
<li>Subsidized incoming overnight shipping charges ($10) on eligible product. These charges will be added to the repair service charge. Return shipping is free for warranty repairs and a flat $10 fee will be charged for return shipping of out of warranty service.</li>
<li>Expedited service turnaround target of 6 days</li>
<li>20% discount for repair parts and labour for eligible products</li>
</ul>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.canon.ca/inetCA/categoryHome?msegid=5&catid=19766" target="_blank">Visit Canon Canada’s Student CPS Page</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

MARKOE PHOTOE · Nov 22, 2013

Hi Guys,

I thought I'd share this information with all the MF lens shooters out there; the CamRanger accessory provides focus peaking which I find to be a great asset for manual focusing. Especially nice when you're focus stacking. The focus peaking highlights are in red and not white like other camera manufacturers use. I personally find the red to be easier to see and obviously focus on the LCD.

CamRanger also has a feature for focus stacking and setting up the number of shots you want but I have yet to determine if it does a better job than what I can do manually, other than it does it automatically after set up.

My Fuji X cameras have focus peaking and this feature is so nice to use with MF lenses. After you start using this feature its so hard to consider not having it on every camera you use.

Cory · Nov 22, 2013

Sorry to be a novice, but I'm really torn between a 70D or 6D upgrade from my T1i. I get great results with my T1i, but feel like I'll really start blowing it out with the right body upgrade. I do a lot of indoor volleyball and a lot of everything else as well and my lenses are the Sigma 17-50, Canon 100 2.0 and Canon 200 2.8. For full frame I'd likely swap out the Sigma for a Canon 35 2.0 IS or Sigma 35 1.4.
The auto-focus on my T1i gets the job done so I imagine that the autofocus on the 6D isn't worse (so in my case maybe autofocus isn't an issue).
Thanks for any insight to include just sticking with the T1i can calming down.

8)

On a side note, my third paid shoot is today.

Menace · Nov 22, 2013

Came across this article in the local online news website ...

http://www.stuff.co.nz/life-style/fashion/9430606/Fashions-dirty-little-secret

Interesting...

kjay27 · Nov 22, 2013

For those who have an extra $1.2M rattling around in their wallet, a used Leica Luxus II of 1930's vintage will be auctioned off in Hong Kong with that as the expected result. It's gold plated and there were only four made. I guess my 6D won't be worth that much if I hold on to it for 85 years. Interesting story, though. http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-25046060

Canon Rumors · Nov 21, 2013

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<p><strong>CES 2014 in Las Vegas

</strong>Canon will be announcing new PowerShot cameras for CES as per usual.</p>
<p>Two cameras we’re told could be coming are a PowerShot SX60 HS, Canon’s big zoom range compact. We’re told the camera will take a bit of a “new direction”, though we weren’t told what. We’re also told that a redo of the PowerShot G1 X with an APS-C sensor could also be coming. Though the source says they haven’t heard much about the development for “some time now”.</p>
<p>I think it’s almost a guarantee we’ll see an SX50 HS replacement, I’m not sure the G1 X will get a direct replacement though.</p>
<p>CES could also be a good place for the new EOS M to make an appearance, but we can’t confirm that to be the case.</p>
<p>Remember too, that it’s the <em>Consumer </em>Electronics Show, we generally don’t see prosumer level gear getting announced.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon Rumors · Nov 21, 2013

HTML:

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<p><strong>2014 Winter Olympics

</strong>We’re told that the replacement to the EF 100-400 f/4.5-5.6L IS will be making its way into the hands of select photographers at the Sochi games in February, 2014. It was unknown if an announcement of the lens would happen beforehand or if it would be used as the final test bed for the replacement lens.</p>
<p>I’m not too sure how many people would put down their 200-400′s for one of these, but the mobility factor may make it worthwhile in certain situations.</p>
<p>A grain of salt on this one, it’s from a new source.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

lJoSquaredl · Nov 21, 2013

I'd like to get a 6D until I save up and can easily afford the Mark III, and can easily replace it if the worst happens (lost/stolen/etc) but all I hear about is how bad the video is. I've watched tons of videos and I can't really judge how bad it is. I see videos with stuff/situations i'd never shoot (far away buildings/roofs/powerlines) and it looks terrible, but then I watch videos where there's plenty of brick buildings and walls around and they look just fine. Some people say shooting at lowest sharpness and adding back if needed in post helps, some say that's not true at all. I'll probably be shooting a lot of events, people/shirts/inside of buildings, altho I don't wanna be afraid to go outside and shoot from time to time, is it that bad? BTW this will be my first camera, but I don't want the GH3, Sony A7, Nikon, etc, just wanna stick to Canon for the most part, but high ISO and easier focus in dark is important so i'm kinda screwed, only have M2/M3/6D as my options it seems.

duydaniel · Nov 21, 2013

This is INSANE!!!

vlad · Nov 21, 2013

Yesterday I received 2 Phottix Mitros+ flashes direct from Phottix in Hong Kong. I couldn't find much first-hand info on them before buying, so I was hesitant to take a chance, but in case somebody else is contemplating them or finding this thread through a search, let me report - these are the real deal.

I'm coming from a 580 II + PocketWizard Flex + AC3 setup. The setup has worked fine, but I would get so annoyed with carrying around the PW's, spare batteries for them, etc. The idea of having it all be built-in was just too tempting. Why didn't I just go for the 600EX? Well, the great thing about the PW setup is that it also let me trigger manual flashes or studio lights. In the case of my AlienBee, the PW AC9 even allowed remote power adjustment from the camera using the AC3. I wanted to keep this flexibility, and the Phottix system is compatible with their other, cheaper triggers.

I haven't done any extensive shooting yet, but I did test the following:
2 Mitros+ flashes
Odin transmitter
Strato II receiver

In a word - everything works as intended. I was able to get things up and running in a few minutes without using the manual. After a few initial stumbles (likely caused by not reading the manual), everything got set up and fired every time. I had the Strato II on an old manual Sunpak flash, using either a Mitros+ or the Odin as a transmitter, etc. Everything just worked.

The build quality is good, there are cables, accessories, carrying pouch, foot, and even a little clip-on diffuser. Everything feels solid. Definitely not ebay-grade Chinese knockoff territory.

I'm a little disappointed that there isn't a dome type diffuser that's compatible with these, at least not on the Phottix site. The provided clip-on one does a tiny bit of diffusion for direct flash, but it doesn't make the light go everywhere like the dome type. In any case, since Phottix sells dome diffusers for Canon/Nikon flashes, I expect they will eventually make one for their own. Also they have this thing:http://www.phottix.com/en/phottix-cloth-soft-flash-diffuser.html.

Overall, I'm pretty excited to get rid of all the PW's. I plan to use these at a party this Saturday, so I can report back with real-world findings.

Better than PocketWizards: No separate units to mess with
Worse than PocketWizards: No remote power adjustment for AlienBees. Power tweaking with the PW AC3 is quicker and more intuitive than any LCD.

Better than Canon: cheaper, provides remote second curtain, can trigger studio/manual strobes using cheap compatible triggers.

Nov 21, 2013

I know many artists and photographers have what I believe to be a more "enhanced" understanding of what is pleasing to the eye. But some of us "engineering" types, though we know beauty when we see it, we can't explain why it is appealing and may need a little extra help.

I ran across this video from AcademyPhotography and wanted to share. It helped me understand the "why" of beauty as it relates to the brain and gives some examples of how to incorporate that into photography to achieve the desired reaction. Not an in-depth video by any means, but I think it shares good explanations not often covered that would benefit photographers looking to improve their craft.

photography composition basics - truth about the rule of thirds, symmetry, repetition and rhythm

Leandro · Nov 21, 2013

Hi,

I am planning to buy a Samyang 14mm f/2.8 lens next may to use with a Canon 6D. Since there are no electronic contacts between the lens and the camera and I will have to manually set apperture and meter using the stop down technique, I am planning to buy the lens in Nikon mount and use it with an adapter in my 6D, so that in case I decide to change systems in the future, I do not have to buy this lens again. Would anyone recommend me against doing this? Why? Will I have any problem using this lens with an adapter on my 6D?

Yours sincerely,
Leandro

Dylan777 · Nov 21, 2013

Few weeks back, I posted this:
http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=17620.0

Thanks for talking me out of it guys

Just got off the phone with BH, about pricing. All I can say is BH is AWESOME and so I DID. My 1st BIG WHITE ;D ;D ;D

----------
Edit: Lens arrived today. Here are some photos taken with this lens at front yard: http://albums.phanfare.com/isolated/dvzsfGFL/1/6328006 I will put this lens to work this coming friday @ local zoo:

She is so SEXY

: http://www.dylanphotography.phanfare.com/6327914

sunnyVan · Nov 21, 2013

Got it yesterday. First surprise. It may or may not be a good one. The box is black and grey, not white with a red strip I was expecting. The box still has canon logo, UPC code, serial number, etc. Does it mean anything? There is a canon USA warranty card with the correct serial number. I got it through Buydig.com. I just want to make sure I could get the $300 rebate. Forgive me if my question sounds ignorant. I don't usually buy new.

Second question. What's the purpose of adding a lock for 24mm? Any real world utility for it?

Third. The ring feels stiff. It should loosen up with more use, right?

LewisShermer · Nov 21, 2013

So I shot a wedding a few weeks ago where the dress had these netting flourishes... I did my usual thing of hang the dress up somewhere with a far amount of natural light and press the button. Only the way I was doing it was burning out those netted flourishes. I just thought I'd do a few different exposures and put them together in photoshop. THEN I REMEMBERED THE IN CAMERA HDR! It's not the most accurate or the best way to do things, obviously (and it cuts about 5mm off the edges of your pic), but I thought I'd give it a try and the bloody thing worked.

So yeah, anyone else had experiences where "novelty" in camera settings have actually come in useful?

This is pretty much straight from the camera (via lightroom as I shoot RAW)

I have since done a little photoshopping and taken out that bed that was inconveniently placed in the bedroom I was shooting in, bloody inconsiderate people. the finished photoshopped image is on my site if anyone is actually interested (which I doubt anyone is that bored) in seeing it?

rmfagan · Nov 21, 2013

Hello Collective Minds of CR-

I could use some insight into what my next purchase should be. Currently have a 5D3, gripped, 16-35 II, 70-200 II, and nifty 50, along with a 430EX II, an ST-E3, 600EX, and 2x III on the way. I currently shoot for my college paper (a lot of sports right now, but also your typical PJ/editorial stuff) and also shoot portraiture, wildlife, and travel stuff for myself. Over the summer, I hope to intern with a wedding photog, or a publication.

I'm torn over what the next big purchase should be. The 24-70 II is a top contender... perfect for basketball and even has a place for near shots in the end zone for football, and I can see it's utility with the rest of my PJ stuff as well as making a great travel lens. Naturally, it would make a good wedding lens if I go that route.

But then again, I could also see a lot of utility in an 85 1.2 for portraiture, low light travel, and such. Again, it too has a role in weddings.

Lastly, there is the option of saving up a bit more and buying a 2nd 5d3. Granted, for sports, the 1DX is worlds better, and I love it after renting/borrowing it several times BUT for everything else I do, the 5D3 performs very well and is still acceptable for sports for me. Bottom line, I can't afford to go 1DX right now. If I end up a full time sports shooter, obviously I'd trade up to 1DX's though.

For what it's worth, I do intend to grab the 300 II off Canon Refurb in the spring.

So usually, easy call...lens is better buy than body. But given my situation I'm unsure. Then of course, it's which lens.

Your help, as always, is greatly anticipated and appreciated.

duydaniel · Nov 21, 2013

Hey guys, I have a question.

Let's look at an entry 430EX speedlite, according to Canon, the 43 is the guide number (43 = f x distance in meter).

My question is why this entry speedlite has larger guide number than the pro class Nikon SB-910 (guide number only 34) let alone the 600EX which is almost double the Nikon.

Why is it so far off?

Thank you

purry · Nov 21, 2013

(mostly video and some photo)
I want a prime and a telephoto zoom lens
Im thinking 60D with:
40 MM 2.8 or 50 1.8
and for the telephoto a 70-200 F4 IS or a 70-200 f4 non IS or are there other options for telephotos?
or options for anything else?

notoriouslightning · Nov 20, 2013

Hi all,
So things are picking up with the weddings and I am thinking I need a 70-200 sooner than later. As of now I am working with a 5d mark 3, back up rebel, 17-40L,24-70 2.8L II, 50 1.4, 85 1.8, 100 2.8L, and a 600 EX-RT. What I have found over the last few weddings is that I need a little more reach. Usually I shoot small wedding so no problem, but things are growing. Due to the recent purchase of the new 24-70, money is tight. I was thinking about saving for the canon 2.8 non IS or 4IS as they are both within reach, thoughts? If it helps, I feel I have a pretty steady hand and I love shallow DOF. Based on this I was thinking the 2.8 non IS would be best?

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