Hi... I have the Canon 5D markiii and I already have the Canon 24-105 f4L, and the Canon 24-70 2.8L markI and Canon 35L. My question is.. should I keep these or trade them for the Tamron 24-70 VI DC and Sigma 35 1.4. Don't know if I can justify the 24-70 markii at $2299 when I can get both tamron 14-70 vi and Sigma 35 1.4 for less than the 24-70 markII. Is the MarkII that much better than the tamron??
Appreciate your input!!

Thanks in advance,
Joe

Hi All,

Not sure where to post this question...but here might be the closes test to it. Anyways my question is quite 'simple':

All you NYC or its surrounding areas wedding Photogs, what's your average price/fee as a 2nd shooter? What's included as your responsibilities along this price (e.g. Do you need to edit, do you get to use these photos on your blog/portfolio, etc.)?

Just for the heck of it. I went to the Canon store today. They have stores here just for looking at the equipment.
I picked up a catalog then went to the larger retailers and asked for the prices of the cameras.
This is with full warranty and VAT refund for the foreigner.

Canon 1Dx catalog - 195,000 Baht. $6093.75 price after VAT refund $5728.13

1Dx at big photo shops. No cut rate shops. Only the biggest and most trusted.
1Dx - 185,000 Baht. 5781.25 price after VAT refund $5434.38

5D III big shop with warranty. about 26-2700 dollars. Vat refund would be about $2538 that is without haggeling at all.

I thought interesting, Just thought I would share.

I'll be shipping my EF 100-400mm f/4.0-5.6L IS USM off for repair work this week. It's not been under warranty for several years now.

When I hit my AF (rear button focus), I can see the center point being pulled down as I look thru the viewfinder, it seems to click and keeps trying to capture focus but fails. Then I'll push the front shutter button half way for metering or sometimes just click it and take an image and try to focus again and then it will catch again and focus. When it does focus, it's spot on. Trouble is, it is only focusing about 1 in 5 images now...

Additionally, I can see part of the inside of the barrel moving when I look in it from the 77mm end. It will sway back and forth, whatever direction I move the barrel!

So it's going in, I can't stand it but I need it fixed. Is it wise to join CPS before I send it in or not? If so, what level does anyone recommend joining at?

All the best,
Ken

I am going to be taking pictures at a 50th birthday party. It's for family but I wanted to make certain I have a decent lens to capture it.

I will be using T2i and I have a Speedlite 430EX II. Lens I do have that I think I could use are a Canon 40 panacake; Canon 50 1.8; Sigma 18-250 DC HSM; I also have a Canon 100L but don't think that would be of much use for this situation.

I was thinking of renting a Canon 24-70 2.8 but I am not certain if that is the best lens I should rent.

I just bought a 6D (along with an SL1 as a second body) and could use advice on best memory card. I certainly don't want to overbuy beyond expected write speeds but also don't want to be foolish and not take full advantage of the camera. Real concern is write speed...I can drink coffee when I upload. New to the Forums and thanks!

Hello All,

I am shooting with a 5DIII and want to improve the clarity and reach of my wildlife images. I have the 100-400 and have found it a bit soft at the far end. So, I am thinking of a prime. (My only Canon primes are the 14 mm super wide and an older 100 mm macro). Last year, I rented an old 500 mm (series I) and was blown away by the color and crispness of the image.
So, I want to know if anyone has experience with the old Canon EF 300 f/4L IS or EF 400 f/5.6 L in terms of image clarity compared to the 100-400 when the latter is racked out to the end? I have used the 2X III, and found only mild degradation of the image with the 100-400. I wonder if that is true for the older lenses? I guess I should mention that I would expect to print images up to 13 x19 inches, perhaps larger.
And, putting aside the sanity of my VISA card, can anyone speak to the image superiority (ignoring weight issues) of the new series II 300, 400, and 500 mm lenses? I guess comparisons to Sigma's teles have to be kept in mind, too.
Certainly have to thank you in advance for sharing your hands-on experience.

As I get ready to buy the 6D with the 24-105 lens I'm wondering why none of the other manufacturers are offering a mid range quality zoom, maybe something like a high quality 18-135. Canon seems to have had this segment to themselves for a long time and I'm a little worried the 24-105 is "outdated". Am I justified in thinking that and is there anything on the horizon from other manufacturers?

Hi guys, new to this place, appreciate any help on the following decision to make:

Looking to upgrade to a 6D, switching to FF. Currently shooting with a 450D (Rebel in US), a 17-40 f/4 L and until recently 70-200 f/4 L.

I wasn't happy with the 70-200 reach any longer so recently sold it, and am starting to regret it. Hadn't yet considered adding a 1.4x or 2x extender (simply wasn't aware of their existence!).

First thought was to upgrade to a 70-200 f/2.8 L, and heavily debating to take the IS or not. I hardly use a tripod, mostly hand holding, and typically a mix of day and low light. Clearly IS is preferred, maybe becomes essential, but need to keep a budget in mind. I'd still like to buy an extender to get that additional range, especially when on safari.

Otherwise maybe the 70-300 f/4-5.6 L or the 100-400 f/4-5.6 L. Got the IS, no need for the extender (which doesn't seem to be officially compatible with the 70-300 anyway). Here though my concern is with the higher aperture. I'm not big on sports photography but like a relatively quick lens, and 100m at f4.5 is slow. And again, expect lower light conditions (early morning dawn on safari) to be a bit tougher on these lenses, or am I wrong?

One more thing I came across on the 100-400mm; vignetting around the 400mm. Is this a big issue or hardly noticeable?

Any tips on the best combination of the above (or something else) is highly appreciated.

Since I'm upgrading to the 6D I need to keep a budget in mind, but don't mind spending $1000-1500 on a new lens as well. Wud like eventually to buy a 24-105 or something similar as more of an all-round lens, which depending on this lens purchase might have to be postponed!

thanks

I'm so glad mirrorless happened. If it didn't, I never would have seen this picture.

- A

About to pull the trigger on a 7d body as I need the speed for football and baseball games. I have access to a 70-200 2.8 IS for this which is great, but I need some suggestions on what I should get for my daily lens. I will be doing the occasional video as well.

Here are some that I am considering.

Canon 24-105 f/4L IS

Canon EF-S 17-55 f/2.8

Tamron 24-70 f/2.8 DI VC

Canon 24-70 f/4L IS

I'm seriously all over the place here. The f/2.8 is very attractive for low light situations, but should I just get a 50mm prime for those situations? Not sure.

Thanks!

Hey everyone. I have a 6D with 24-105L IS and was filming a behind the scenes video for a commercial yesterday. I was using a Manfrotto video fluid head monopod focusing with my left hand. Because this was run and gun documentary style filming, I was rack focusing by setting focus at my end point and then putting my fingers on the very top of the lens, turning the ring to rack, then trying to go back to the top to hit my original focus point. What I found was that each time I tried to do this, the ring shifted, and my focus point was a good 1/4" or more out, so that my fingers were no longer at the top of the lens. Baffled, I tried it several times with the same result. If I did not reset, and kept finding focus on the object, rack and try to go back, my fingers would end up near the bottom of the lens. Obviously the manual focus ring is slipping, which means there is no way for me to hit marks with this lens. I haven't had it that long, so I'm thinking it needs to go back. The faster I turn it, the more it slips. I have never had this problem with other Canon lenses, L or not. Anyone else have this issue?

I was wondering if Sigma re-designed there super telephoto lenses with the sports label. And they were almost as good optically as Canon. Would you buy them?
With the new sports lens and the option to have the mount changed to any brand you want, at any time! That would let me buy one lens and try different manufacturers body's with no problems. With a small fee for mount change.
I am thinking this is what is about to happen with Sigmas large super telephotos in the next year.
Any thoughts?

All,
Please read this account of a minor odd moment in strobe lighting and tell me if you know what went wrong.

I was photographing interiors and my kit includes both Einsteins and speedlights, Canon and Vivitars. In a small bathroom I planned to shoot from the door and snuck an Einstein head up next to me such that the head pointed straight up at the ceiling over my head. Satin 7.5 inch reflector. Dialed down to something like 100, 200WS, because it was a small bathroom and light in overall color (white ceiling). Attached directly to the 1DsMk3 by its own Buff-supplied PC cord. 17TSE on the body.

This body had been used on other rooms with just Einsteins (multiple heads) all good so far.

I had placed a Canon 580EX in the bathtub to brighten up the shower curtain and the matte-finished tile. It was mounted on a small stand up on top of a Phottix Odin receiver into which I had plugged a FlashZebra orange optical slave made for Canon triggering (FlashZebra has different models.) Odin "on" and set for Group A, Channel One. The speedlite was behind the white translucent cloth curtain pointed away from the lens. The Odin was underneath it and the slave stuck out the "back" of the Odin toward the camera position and therefore toward the strong pulse from the Einstein.

What went "wrong"? This: On first curtain setting only the Canon's light showed up in the exposure. Everything fired, though, and apparently at the same time. Tried it about five times. Get this - I was dragging the shutter to let a ceiling light show in the image, so I wasn't anywhere near 250th. No banding showing on the screen. Change to second curtain and it works fine.

The same combination did it in another room a bit later. Again, second-curtain "fixed" the problem.

Nothing strange about those second-curtain images in post.

Tonight I pulled what may or may not be the same Einstein head and tested the setup. I should have marked the head! Works fine on both first- and second-curtain. WTF? Presumably the Canon is going off milliseconds after the Einstein, as it's the Canon speedlite on a slave.

OK, anyone, any ideas?

(As an aside: One of the things that bothers me about my 580 and 550 is their lack of a PC connector, because when not at an event I think of them as small manual strobes to be hidden here or there or lighting a corner that just fades due to required placement of the bigger units. Before the purchase of the Einsteins this motley crew of Canon and Vivitar units was my only kit for interiors. In most cases optical slaves are fine for that kind of work. The Vivitars have a connector, albeit a proprietary one.)

jonathan7007

Mother-in-law bought a SX150, which 3 months later now has what appears to be a logic chip malfunction. Upon booting up it does everything as expected and then zooms to the long end upon where the user can no longer control it. Live view is still working but that's it.

Canon USA told her she dropped the camera and it isn't covered. Problem is (1) it wasn't dropped or knocked around, (2) there is no physical evidence it has been dropped or knocked around - it's mint cosmetically, and (3) the symptoms of the camera are not consistent with Canon USA's claim that it was dropped.

In this case the husband and the son-in-law of the unfortunate SX150 owner are currently 5D3 owners with a smattering of low to mid-priced L glass (i.e. 24-105, 100L, 70-200 IS II, etc) and up to now had an appetite to add substantially to the respective L collections.

But this incident has left a very foul taste in our mouths. First Canon USA implicitly calls her a liar, then they don't honor their stated warranty, and now she's the proud owner of a mint-looking brick...

Got news for Canon, they can forget ever getting another dime out of me. As for mom in law, she already switched to Nikon. As for me, I'll switch too when it's time to move the 5D3 body. Already moving out non essential lenses in the collection. I simply will not do business with Canon USA or any other company that pulls this sort of BS.

Okay, not quite sure where to post this, mods please replace if necessary.

Nephew showing a wee aptitude with a camera, considering getting him something with manual settings should he get more keen.

Couple of considerations:

Price: no more than £100.
Size & weight: he's 9
Control: needs full auto to full manual.

So, either a new basic powershot, a used bridge or rebel...

I used to use a dimage a2, but wasn't great even by contemporaneous standards at anything other than base ISO.
However has decent lens coverage, manual controls and is cheap.

EOS 300d or 350d. Cheap, smallish. Decent sized sensor so can get an idea about depth of field (if he gets into it)

Or any other ideas. Strict budget. He has a destructive little bro. No 5d3 + 35L suggestions purleaaaase!

Don't want to buy something too good just now in case its just a flash in the pan. Have you given a camera to your kids to learn on? Don't want to dampen his enthusiasm either...

Cheers in advance.


PS. Just edited, will need to stop using my iphone, I'm surprised anybody understood my question! Many thanks for answers so far.

Question about the Canon 135mm f/2.0/L. I have a T3i as well as a 6D, my favorite lens today is the Canon 85mm f/1.8. Would I gain any thing buying the Canon 135mm for my 6D, vs using my 85mm on my T3i or would it be a waste of money?

While taking photos of a friend, I encountered a pretty major problem. Halfway through the shoot I started to see a small underexposed area at the botom of the frame, and thought it might just be due to lighting. After adjusting lighting (nothing made a difference) I imported the photos into adobe bridge and switched memory cards to see if it made a difference. The problem has quickly become far worse than it was at the start. Now, half of the photo is messed up. Has anyone seen this before? Is something wrong with my sensor? I can provide a raw file upon request.

I attended a wedding over the weekend. While everybody was oohing and ahing over the bride, I of course was oohing and ahing over the fine photographic equipment in use. The photographer duo used 3 5D3's and a 5D2, some Alien Bee's and a bunch of L's. I counted a 70-200 f/2.8, a 24-70, as well as some other red rings. These guys also moved around like this wasn't their first rodeo. It looked to me like they knew what they were doing.

So, I was surprised when one of the guys was using a 50 f/1.4 instead of an L. Later on in the day, I struck up a (brief) conversation with him. He seemed happy to oblige (I'm assuming that staying the heck out of their way had something to do with it). I mentioned the 50, and he said that while he loves the 50L, they couldn't justify it over the 50 f/1.4 simply because there was a negligible image quality gained for what it cost to own one.

I know that there are several opinions and the subject has been beat to death here on CR, but it was interesting to get the view of a pro who boiled it down to a business decision.

Having used the 200-400 on several trips, I can say that they incorporation of the 1.4 into the lens is a great plus.

I would love to see this in their long lenses, especially 500, 600 and 800.

Don't expect to see this soon, but it would be nice.

The big volleyball season is upon us and our bundle of joy is starting varsity for the possible future state titlist. Spoken like a true delusional sports dad, but I think it could happen.
I'm, of course, the team photographer and use the 100 2.0 and 200 2.8 on my Rebel with remarkable results. There's a better than half chance that I'll be upgrading to the 6D. I use the 100 a lot more than the 200, but do like having both. The focal length on the 135 I guess will be similar to the 100 going from crop to full frame and I could probably do without the 200 (which might be somewhat inbetween on a full frame anyway) so is the 135 on full frame maybe "better" in several ways than the 100 and 200?
Thanks.

Hi all!

A question to all the users of the TS-E 90 lens: Is the shift function useful in this lens?
According to calculations, a full shift on this lens only corrects for some 7° of converging lines. Is that important or even noticeable?
(Obviously shift is important for the wide-angle TS-E-s, as shift corrects for ~38° on the 17mm)

Thanx,
Sulla

Hi all,

Turns out it's been so long since I last logged in, my account's been deleted...

I know there's been a lot of threads about lens recommendations and I've spent the last 2 days going through the forums, but would really appreciate some feedback on my particular upcoming lens purchases.
I currently own a 5DMkII, 24-105L and 50 f/1.8. My wife and I are off to the US & Canada in about 4 weeks for a big road trip and I'm curious to hear what lens suggestions some of you might have?
My budget is £1500 - £2000. I really want to upgrade that 50 f1.8 to the 1.4 - I just hate that plastic feel of the 1.8... and other than that I'm currently considering the 70-200 f2.8 L IS II, the 135 f2 L, and 70-300 L IS f4-5.6.

My thoughts on the above:
70-200 2.8 L IS II --- I have been lusting after this lens for many years now and I can finally afford it. I would deffo have use for it after the trip as I shoot a lot of portrait and studio work, along with some weddings and events. Trailing through the forums some seem to think this is too heavy for travel? Although we're going to be driving a lot to specific spots so I don't think we'd be walking more than 2 hours at a time. Is the added weight really that bad? (I'm 33 - average build and weight)
135 f2 --- I love the photos this lens produces, and the wide aperture, plus lighter weight could come in handy on longer hikes and event work. I also like the fact that it's not white which would make it less conspicuous for candid street work while traveling.
70-300 L IS f4-5.6 --- I hear it makes for a great travel telephoto zoom thanks to the additional reach in FL and the comparably light weight, and overall pretty good IQ. Then again... I'm really put off by the reversed focusing and zoom rings and the limited use this lens would probably find after our trip. Also not a big fan of extending barrels on zoom lenses. It's my main gripe with the 24-105.

I'll also be bringing 2 tripods, 2 speedlites, radio triggers for the trip, and although I'm vaguely considering adding more focal length at the wide end for this trip, I sold my 17-40 L about 2 years ago, as I just wasn't using it anymore after upgrading to FF from a 400D. So not sure if it's really worth me exploring that end. Doesn't seem to suit my style anymore, I find 24mm plenty wide on FF.

So... any ideas, suggestions or am I even going way over board here and should simply take the 24-105L on the 5DMkII and upgrade to the 50 f/1.4 and be done with it?

Thanks a lot guys,
Steve

I read that the 1DX has the 100000 RGB Metering while the 5D3 reuse the 63 dual layers from the 7D.
I wonder if anyone has more info on this.

1) How does it affect image quality or
2) Does it just affect the exposure metering?