I did these tests this evening. I was as careful as possible to keep room lighting the same for each shot.

See the thread about "50mm lenses that don't suck wide-open", which made me get off my butt and do these tests.

Note that the aim for these tests was only to compare lens brightnesses (T-stop) and bokeh, with all lenses wide-open.
The scene is too dark to determine relative sharpnesses.

I tested the Canon 50mm f/1.4 wide-open, both connected and NOT CONNECTED electronically, by rotating lens in body while holding the lens-release button down. Mechanically it is still completely mounted, but the camera cannot communicate with the lens, so does not know what it is, so it cannot "decide" to sneakily increase the ISO.

Canon 5D Mark 3
Manual
t=1/15s, ISO400 (nominal)

Focus was on the same point on the lantern, using live view, magnified x10.


RESULTS:

Dude was right. The "CONNECTED" Canon 50mm f/1.4 image is noticeably brighter, and I took the picture both ways, several times, and the results were completely repeatable. So it seems that the 5D3 DOES sneakily SEEM TO boost ISO without telling you, if it detects that the 50mm f/1.4 lens is connected. When I review the images on the camera, they all say ISO400.

Dude was also right that the Olympus 50mm f/1.2 is significantly brighter than the Canon 50mm f/1.4 wide-open, EVEN brighter than the "CONNECTED" image. That makes me feel slightly better about having dropped just shy of £400 on this (perfect, mint, unmarked) example of this lens, back in Jan. 2010!


Here's the album on FB:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4505135767033.1073741834.1849695638&type=1&l=7e5db91bd2

Here are the files on Dropbox, including raw files:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rhtr3k0ru902sbr/yMKl0KWANf?lst

The tests I did were:

Zuiko (Olympus) 50mm f/1.8 - Dimmest, as expected

Zuiko 50mm f/1.4 Silvernose

Zuiko 50mm f/1.4 Non-Silvernose (later model) VERY SLIGHTLY brighter than Silvernose

Zuiko 55mm f/1.2 - Has the "biggest" bokeh / OOF blur. NOTE! This is a 55mm lens, not a 50mm one.

Zuiko 50mm f/1.2 This is the brightest of them all

Canon 50mm f/1.4 NOT CONNECTED, because lens was rotated to disengage electronic contacts

Canon 50mm f/1.4 CONNECTED - Should be same, but IS BRIGHTER

Availibility: 21st of October 2013

Hello,

So i use the 17-40 for Landscape photography and i`m not happy with the results, so i m considering the Zeiss 21 2.8 or the 24 II TSE 3.5, i would like to know some opinions and if i will see major result differences with these lens that i mentioned.

Thanks.


Canon 5D2, Canon 7D, Canon 17-40 , Sigma 35mm, Canon 70-200 IS II

Hey all,

Just got my 300 2.8L IS to start my long lens collection. Next one will likely be a 500 when I get the cash together. Needless to say, I'd like to get a gimbal head. What are your recommendations between these 2 brands and any others that I should consider?

Thanks!!!!!

I am an enthousiastic hobby-photograher. I am going on safari in September and am looking for a second body.
I have a 5Dm3 as primary camera and plan to take with me my 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-200 f 2.8 ii and 300 f4. In addition to that, a 1.4 converter (iii). A large oart of the photography will be in low light and I understood from the camp that 300mm with 1.4 converter should offer enough reach (the latter of course especially on a crop body).
I was hoping that the 7Dm2 would be available on time, but this is not the case.

I have been thinking about the following options:
- 7D, crop, eventually sell afterwards, eventually buy used
-70D, crop, newest technology, less weather/dust resistant, might be useful after the safari as well as relatively simple and small camera with fill-in flash and wifi
- 1Dm4, 1.3 crop, better image quality in low light, weather sealed

- or, the most expensive and probably most worryfree option, buy a 1Dx and eventually sell the 5Dm3 afterwards???

I would appreciate you advice.
Ben

Hi Everyone,

So, I purchased the Sigma 35mm 1.4 a little over a month ago and shot w/it a couple of times, including assisting at a wedding a couple of weeks ago. I noticed there were some off focus/inconsistent focusing issues. So I sent it in to Sigma out on Long Island to have a look. I am told byt the service technician he doesn't find anything wrong w/the lens and asked me to provide some photos of my concerned issues. I did. After which, he said: "From these photos it looks like the camera is slightly back focusing the lens, the micro focus feature of the camera should correct this."

Has anyone ever had to mico focus their camera w/this lens? Or any other lenses? I believe the 5D Mark II settings can remember up to like 99 different lenses/mico focused settings right? I have never had to Micro Focus on my camera so not sure how simple or different it is.

Thanks!

Hey guys

Long time listener, first time caller.

I have a dilemma. I need to decide, and I need to decide pretty soon. I want to buy a compact for my upcoming diving trip. I have a budget of about 1000 - 1500 USD, where 1500 really would mean "I went all out". This budget must include everything, so meaning the compact cam and the underwater housing - maybe even a flash.

So after consulting the interwebs, I narrowed down my choice to just 2 cameras… which is still 1 too many. But I have no idea, how to eliminate one or favour the other.

The cameras are:

Sony RX-100 (mark 1)
Canon G1X

Both cameras fit my budget. On the Canon I could get the Canon Housing - for the Sony, there's a affordable ikelite Housing. Both options would more or less total 1K (I live in Switzerland)

Now… feature wise, I know that some things are more important than others, when it comes to diving pictures and/or video. Unfortunately it seems that both have very strong arguments… I can't decide. Maybe some of you out there have some experience with both of them, or can put some of the features in perspective…

As far as I understand, these are the features that are the most paramount for diving fotography:

- Good battery life (with 700 shots, the G1X doubles the Sony)
- Large Sensor (light is rare. And if I don't have the money to afford a whole flash system, light is vital. So Sensor size might be the most important feature? or am I mistaken?) but then again:
- Wide aperture (RX100 f/1.8 vs f/2.8 wins… meaning more light?)
- BIGGIE: Macro Capability (this is the one that makes it a tie breaker. Macro photography is probably the most important for my diving… and here the G1X is far behind the RX100… 20cm vs 5cm)
- RX100 with double the ISO at 25,600… does that also mean more light in my pictures, when taking pics in sub 15m dives?

as a noob, I used this here to help me weed out the other cams (http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-G1X-vs-Sony-Cybershot-DSC-RX100)
Until recently it was G15 vs G1X, but now that I've seen the RX100, I think it is just between the G1X and the Sony.

The Sony seems the first choice… but how much more awesome would pictures be with the G1X, in non-macro situation? how much more would the G1X with it's sensor excell?
Or do I overrate the sensor for my situation? I also thought G1X + Housing + Macro Lense… but that would mean the expensive G1X non-Canon Housing + Lense = very expensive. With the sony I could go for the ikelite housing plus a cheap strobe setup, with the motto: better than nothing. For example the Fantasea Nano Storbe at 100 Bucks, or the Intova ISS2000 ISTR Slave strobe around 130USD.

Would love some input from you guys! I'm stuck!

Hi all,

A few weeks ago, I sold my venerable EOS 40D for a used EOS 1D Mkii N.
I was very satisfied with the 40D but when it comes to photograph moving kids... the AI-Servo tracking just shows its limits.

Until a few days ago, I owned only 2 EF lenses : 50/1.8 and 70-200/4L.
With the 40D, I used the kit lens EF-S 18-55 IS for my wide angle needs.

My plan is to buy a used zoom. I just need a few extra months to save up money...

In the meantime, as I'm not afraid (or even ashamed) to attach "amateur" lense on a "pro" camera, I just bought a used EF 22-55/4-5.6... yes, I did it !
I must say that results are better than expected, once processed in LR. Even if this old lens is not listed in "lens profile" (nor in Canon DPP), LR makes a good job, especially in center part of the picture.

My question is now about "walk around" or "standard" zoom lens.
I made a lot of searches on the Internet : 17-40/4L, 24-105/4L, Tamron 24-70 VC or even old EF 24-85/3.5-4.5... waiting a rumored 16-50/4L ? Lens like EF 16-35/2.8L is out of reach...

From your experience, what would be reasonable choice ?
Using my plastic 22-55 (some say that 22mm is more like a 23mm), I find it wide enough so far.
It's actually the "difficult" decision. A friend of mine use a 17-40 on a 1DsII and I must say that 17mm is great on FF camera.
I know that your not in my mind but, your advice and experience would be very appreciated, especially regarding IQ and 1.3x sensor's characterisitcs.

Thank you very much,
Ivan

PS: Sorry for my English which is not my mother tongue.

I currently am a 15 year old who has taken on photography as a hobby. As of now, I own the following: T2i, 24-105 F/4L, 40mm F2.8 Pancake, 55-250mm 3.5-5.6 IS II, 18-55mm 3.5-5.6, a minolta Auto280PX flash and 2 Minolta lenses. I am a bit confused as to whether the 70D would be the ideal upgrade, or possibly holding off to the 7D Mark II!

I take pictures of my friends and RC cars. Currently, with the T2i I can definitely take pictures of people, but I find the camera really struggles with moving subjects. I know the T2i isn't really geared towards sports photography, and in my own experience I found this to be true. While taking pictures of RC cars I can only get about 40% of the shots actually in focus (AI Servo and center point) and it's a bit disappointing.

Here's an example of the RC cars:

IMG_9858 by THGBrian, on Flickr

Here's one that is out of focus:

IMG_9826 by THGBrian, on Flickr

They move VERY fast!

With stationary objects (people) there is absolutely no problem:

Porsche GT3RS by THGBrian, on Flickr

I am looking for something that will be able to get these shots in focus, have better low light focusing, and possibly better low light performance.

I have considered the following:
Don't do anything at all! (Parents would love this! : )
Purchase a few fast primes. (Sigma 50mm f1.4)
Buy a Fujifilm X-E1 due to it's size and low light performance. Then down the road, buy a 7D Mark II or some "upgrade" to my T2i. <--- Most money spent here
Buy a Canon 70D during black friday. (No tax day at two of my local camera stores)
Wait for a 7D replacement



I really like the autofocus and video features that the 70D has (touchscreen!!!), as I like to make videos. However, with the possibility of a new 7D replacement that will only improve on the 70D (without the touchscreen and possibly wi-fi) I am really not sure if I should purchase anything at all! I'm not trying to sound like some rich kid, as I do work to get these items. Maybe I should be grateful that I even own these items and hold off until I really need a camera. Thanks for reading!


If you guys need any more info, please ask!

I need a couple of replacement batteries for my 1D MkIII. Where do I find the best value? I want Japanese cells, not Chinese. I see prices all over the map. I have found several BLI 347 batteries listed. Anyone found the best battery for the money?

Hey all, Im on my second 6d(first one had a dead pixel mid sensor), replacement I took out last night to take some long exposures. I was surprised to see a good amount of what I am assuming are hot pixels as they are not in every shot just long exposures. I had never really seen this a lot on my rebel. Should I be expecting this on a full frame? Or should I be sending this back to give a third one a try? Thanks for the advice.

Last week I sent in both of my Canon 1DX camera bodies to CPS in Irvine, CA. regarding the Canon factory service notice on potential auto focus issues. Today I received both cameras back and upon careful inspection noticed one of the camera bodies had been damaged. The below image shows where the black paint on the body has been completely scratched off near the area of the camera where the neck strap would attach. I have never used a neck strap on either camera, nor has either camera ever been dropped or even bumped into anything. Before carefully packing and shipping the cameras to Canon I meticulously cleaned both bodies and know with 100% certainty that there was absolutely no wear on either 1dx body. I tried calling Canon's CPS number but they are closed for the evening. One last piece to the puzzle, the damaged camera was shipped back to me in a box so small the body its self could hardly fit inside the box. The other 1dx which was not damaged was shipped back at the same time in a separate box literally 4 times the size of the other box. I've attached an image as well.

Any advice on how to deal with CPS when I call them tomorrow morning (they are currently closed) would be greatly appreciated.

Hi, I have finally got the money together to get another camera and have decided to go FF. I own a 60d and take mostly portraits of the kids and landscape and other general stuff but as is the case in most families I also take pics of the kids playing sports with their teams. The 60D is not a recognised sports camera but I am happy with the results for the sports stuff with the kids.
My original idea was to buy a 5D3 however recent threads on this forum are giving me pause for thought about the 6D instead. I would normally try and check out the camera in the camera shop as most people would however our local shop won't show the camera with the battery in it or a lens attached and when I asked a question about the ISO they "didn't know about that" (really great sales people!!)
Anyway My question is will the 6D AF match the 9 x type points in my 60D so that I can continue taking the type of shots that I do (well the 10% that is sporting). Also am I reading correctly that the ISO/ noise on the 6D is better than the 5d3?
I am purely amateur and have no intention of trying to be a professional photographer so saving the €1000 would be rather nice for other lenses etc possibly a printer.
Thanks for your time.

41mp actually..

It's kind of like a D800 (with a zeiss lens) except smaller... just kidding

http://press.nokia.com/2013/07/11/zoom-reinvented-nokia-lumia-1020-arrives/

In preparation for my upgrade to a 5d3 (from a 60D) later this year I'm trying to compile a list of potential prime lenses to get between the 35 and 100mm range. I've already got a 24-105L and will sell my non-L 70-300 to get the L version. Also have a 50mm 1.8 so I'll need to get a 85 1.8 to get my portrait capability back.

Then the question remains: Do I keep the little plastic toy (which never use wider than 2.8 anyways) or just get a pancake (which is actually pretty usable wide open, vignetting aside)? Do I even need a 50? I know the 50mm 1.4 isn't great wide open either and has fragility issues but at least it'll work with the automatic CA corrections in the 5d3 (I shoot RAW+jpeg). The sigma 50 1.4 is...really big for a 50mm prime, has AF quality control issues and won't work with auto CA corrections. Rumor mill has it that the sigma 50 is due for a rebody to the "art" line they've got going now but probably won't get an optics refresh... Oh yeah, the 50mm 1.2 is a no thanks I'll keep the money. Everything 50mm seems to be a compromise and you'd think after so many decades of people using such a prolific "normal" lens the designers would have perfected the formulas by now.

Do I even need a 50?

I have a 60D. And I have a reasonable set of lenses in my kit for outdoor use where I shoot most of the time.

I'd like to add a lens for indoor use -- things like family & friend gatherings, indoor events (graduations, arts, etc.). I generally end up not being really up close to the subject. And generally don't use a tripod.

One key factor is that I have a tremor in my hand. So far my experience with non image stabilized lens without a tripod has been pretty poor in terms of getting a nice sharp photo.

So for indoor use, I've been considering these options:

- Canon EF 100L 2.8 IS Macro
- Sigma 17-70 2.8-4 DC OC HSM Macro
- Tamron 24-70 2.8 Di VC USD

I've also thought about the Canon EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS USM, but am afraid it doesn't have sufficient range.

Any thoughts/recommendation about these lenses for this situation? Or other lenses to consider? Or other factors to consider?

Thanks in advance!

i sometime send images to our local newspaper for the "readers images" column.

now someone got back to me today and asked if they can use an image for a 2014 calender.
it´s a calendar about local motives around the region where i live.

they normaly sell 1500-2000 of these calendars for 8,90 euro.

of course i feel flattered and i would even give them the image for free.
but i read so much about photographer should not work for free and how this undermines the value of photography.

so what would be a fair compensation?

Hi guys,

I'm interested in both lenses but just curious about the difference in IQ @ 200mm between the prime and the zoom. How do these lenses stack up at 200mm?

I could get the prime and a 16-35 II for the same amount of money as the 70-200.

IS is not a deal breaker coz I'm old school type, shooting from a tripod.

Cheers ... J.R.

I have just moved continent, from Asia back to Europe. We've been home for just about a month now and I have barely touched my camera since. As my identity here indicates photography is a hobby, not my profession. I normally like portraits and street/travel.

Before we moved back I showed my pictures at a local gallery which was great fun, I even sold a few prints. I spent a lot of time preparing that show and shooting and shooting to get enough material. Maybe I got exhausted from that or maybe it is like a journalist friend of my said the other day: 'Transition kills creativity'. Maybe I have higher demands on myself now and am afraid to take bad pictures.

I hope to get it back soon enough though. I just wanted to share this with you guys here. Any thoughts of course are welcome. Do you lose inspiration sometimes? What do you do to get it back?

Hi All,

I'm looking to save up to get the 5D Mark iii, but have a few questions.

1) how do I determine which camera is of which 'batch' of production since there has been various issues...e.g light leaks?

2) will the 'newest batch of production bodies' already have the most recent firmware updates (as of production)?

3) what other mechanical or firmware flaws should I pay attention to?

Thx!!

Hi All,

I currently shoot Motorsport with the 7D (and hopefully soon the 7D2) Coupled with the 70-200 F4 IS.
I am looking into a second lens, which will also be mounted to a crop.

I'd like a different sort of fast aperture, different perspective. Ergo,
Canon 85 f/1.8
Canon 100 f/2.8 IS
Canon 135 f/2
Canon 40 f/2.8

Pro's, Con's, and advice in general.

Has anyone used these to shoot Motorsports?

This topic has been moved to Lighting.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=15771.0

I shoot lots of weddings and events and I've been rocking two cameras. However, with FF bodies, flashes and the massive lenses, I'd like to hear recommendations and ideas to hold the two cameras at once in the best/most secure way possible. I'm a little leery about the plate attachment idea that most of the dual strap options have, so if you have battle stories, I'd really appreciate hearing.

I've noticed that using two straps, with one camera off to the side so it doesn't collide with my primary camera, if I grab for the secondary one, I've got to re-arrange straps just to make the viewfinder reach my eye. Ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Oh, and here's the one I was looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Carrier-Harness-Holster-Cameras/dp/B00746O3X8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1373496233&sr=8-6&keywords=dual+camera+strap