What can I expect from CPS's standard "Canon Maintenance Service"

Hey Folks,

I recently became a Gold-Level member of "Canon Professional Services." Included with the membership is "Canon Maintenance Service (CMS)" for 5-pieces of DSLR cameras & EF Lenses. With springtime (hopefully) right around the corner, I was wondering if anybody knew exactly what "maintenance service" I should expect if I send them a camera &/or a lens? I assume that the camera CMS is fairly straight forward and would include a sensor cleaning at least, but what else should I expect? Might they reload the firmware or something that would cause all my AFMA settings & custom functions to revert to the factory defaults? And with a lens, what else would they do other than shaking-it to hear if anything is rattling around inside? Could I dare hope that they would actually disassemble the lens (for free) to clean the cobwebs out? And is there any real chance for a piece to come back in worse shape then when it was first sent?

Heading to Nepal for a month - Suggestions?

Howdy folks,

I'm heading to Nepal this month for a 4 week trek through the Himalayas. I'll be staying at a mix of lodges and villages for the work im doing. This will be my first time in the country, and I'm wondering what advice (gear wise, production wise, survival wise, etc.) you could lend to my first time shooting in Nepal.

For what I've planned so far gear wise, I'm taking a MK III with a three lens assortment. DP4 Small HD monitor with an articulating arm on a cheese plate, and enough batteries to choke a horse. I'm not taking my battery grip with me, as the MK III can look rather beastly when even rigged out to that extent. Everything is going in one 70 litre bag that I'll be carrying. Onboard audio with a Sennheiser MKE400 in the hot shoe. Camera handling includes both hand holding from the body, and a Manfrotto monopod with a 500 series fluid head.

The type of work I'm doing involves very close proximity with villagers and animals, staying with them much of the time. For this, I'm thinking trimming down Everything as much as possible without leaving my wanting. I'm also curious about battery charging options (solar, etc.). Survival wise, I'm gearing as efficiently as possible. I've done several long-term travel productions, but am always open to the advice of someone who's been somewhere I've never been before.

Thanks!

Woodruff

Sell 7D in favor of 6D or 5D2...?

A friend is borrowing my 7D and I have been using my 40D until I get it back. I have almost forgotten how much I loved my 40D. It has great ergonomics and the image quality is fantastic. Photos are sharp and the AF system, even though is dated a little is very fast and dead on the majority of the time, even in low light. The frame rate is good and isn't far from the 7D. I have always wanted another FF (ex got the 5D2 in the divorce) and I don't need (or afford) a 5D3. What do you guys think? This would give me a nice crop body for when I need one and a good FF when I want one.

D

Midlife Crisis - Alaska here I come

Well, this is the year I turn the big 4-0. Instead of buying a car or getting a large tattoo, my family and I are taking a trip to Alaska. For the trip we plan to see wildlife, big and small, as well as plenty of beautiful landscapes. I am using this trip as an excuse to get some more gear and was hoping to get some thoughts from others out there in a similar situation, ie, buying gear for a big trip when you have a good excuse :) Specifically I would like to purchase a back-up camera. In general, any thoughts about travel and photography in Alaska are also welcome. We plan to spend time from Seward and Denali for about 10 days in August.

As of now, I plan to take a 5D MkIII with a 24mm TSE, 40mm pancake for hiking, 100mm L macro, and a 300mm f/2.8 with extenders - already have a good tripod and backpack. I am considering the 6D or Sony A7 as a second camera option. I definitely want a camera I can use without purchasing new lenses. Thanks.

cheap AF-S 55-250 STM sharper than L series AF 70-300 USM

It seems, from the eyes of a 18 megapixel crop sensor, that cheap lenses designed for crop sensor are sharper than L series lenses designed for full frame cameras; I am getting to such a conclusion looking a the comparison from the link below:

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=856&Camera=736&Sample=0&FLI=4&API=1&LensComp=738&CameraComp=736&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=2

I understand there are other lens characteristics beside sharpness; in this specific case, on vignetting and distortion fields, the full frame lens wins hands down. Without mentioning flare, transmission, and the focus motor. If the plastic lens has a motor that can focus, in proportion, the USM lens has a motor that could move a truck.

Anyhow, it seems that to a crop sensor body, I would better couple an sf-s lens, rather than the full frame lens I already own. I would both reduce my bag weight, and get "better" image quality (somewhat).

Alaska Vacation Suggestions

I will be traveling with my wife and teen-aged son to Alaska for a two week vacation this summer. This will be our first trip to the 48th state and we probably won't be able to return for a number of years, so we want to see as much as possible in the time we have. We plan to fly into Fairbanks/Anchorage or maybe Juneau, rent a vehicle and drive from there.

From what I've read, it appears most of the attractions are in the south eastern portion of the state between Fairbanks and Anchorage. We would also like to see Juneau and Glacier Bay, but they seem to be a long way from the other tourist areas. Some of our "must see" attractions are: Denali NP/Mt. McKinley, the Kenai peninsula and Kenai Fords NP. We would like to see as much wildlife (primarily bears, moose, elk, wolves, etc.) as possible. We enjoy hiking and spending time outdoors.

This will be a family vacation first and photography expedition second. My wife and son are pretty tolerant of my hobby, but I can't get too carried away with it and keep family harmony.

Regarding photography gear, my equipment list is below. At this point I'm inclined to bring my 6D, 24-70, 70-200 and maybe the 100 Macro. The Rokinon 14mm is another possibility. Even with my 2x extender, I am worried that I won't have enough "reach" for some of the wildlife due to the vast distances. I might consider renting a long tele lens for the trip. I'll take my EOS-M and EOS adapter along as a back-up body and occasional use when I don't want to carry a heavy DSLR and lenses.

Thanks!

Upper/Lower Antelope Canyon Help

Anybody here visited Antelope Canyon lately? I will be in Page for about a day and a half this upcoming October. I was wondering if anyone here has any specific advice as to whether to spend time at Upper vs Lower Antelope Canyon. Looks like Lower is less crowded, but why? I was thinking I would probably be happier in Lower with less casual visitors and having more time, since the sunbeams in Upper aren't great in October…..Am I correct? If I only do one, will Lower be a good idea? Also, exactly how do you get in Lower……I understand you need a guide……..anybody have any good or bad experiences or make any specific recommendations?

Secondly, my plan was to try Horseshoe Bend then too………when is best, morning or evening? Is it easy or hard to get to?

Thanks for any help…..have researched this quite a bit but I am sure there are some of us here who know exactly what I am asking…...

5D M3 - Mirror slap during live view?

Having an absolute nightmare with this one as Googling the question comes back mixed results.

I do real estate and interior photography, as such I'm always tripod mounted, manual focused, trigger release firing off my shots. I use live view an awful lot to help compose, expose etc.

Whenever I shoot in live view, I manual focus on my subject, its tack sharp on the screen, hit the cable release (being careful to remain still etc, and the picture comes out with slight movement blur (at full image zoom - say, a tap), nowhere near as sharp as the live view feed i focused with. There seems to be a hefty mirror slap just prior to the image being taken, which contradicts Google's results with answers saying its only the shutter that moves during live view exposures.

It also seems evident that this is the case, because if i mount a flash on the camera and do the same thing, the slap comes first then the flash triggers. This is using first curtain sync also.

Can someone clarify for me if I'm doing something wrong here or something? Im not using cheap tripods or heads or anything.

Anyone want to trade a $5 amazon gift card for my Adorama $10 off $150 coupon?

I'm not sure if they sent it to me because I sent back a lens where the box was damaged... but I don't think i'm going to make a purchase from Adorama in the next 2 weeks (claims it expires in 15 days)... so I'd rather it not go to waste and I'd really like to get a little cash back.

I only have one... so message me... or just respond here..

No biggy either way.

6D Noise Levels and Comparison Tests

Someone from CloudyNights forum performed some useful tests of the 6D noise levels at different temperatures at astrophotography exposure lengths. Very interesting stuff, for those who are interested. You can find the images here at the original thread:

http://www.cloudynights.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=6402677&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=all&fpart=1&vc=#Post6402677

One of the very interesting things is you can see how much temperature affects read noise levels. The images are taken at +21°C, +7°C, and -7°C, with exposure times of 300 seconds.

Speculation: Year of the Lens

Lots of lenses on sale at B&H. Perhaps the rumors of new lenses are true, and we're in for a surprise or two this year as Canon and Nikon respond to the surge of quality third party designs.

So what strategy does everyone thing Canon would employ, and which would you prefer: a) mark ii versions of L lenses that are reasonably competitive with the new Sigmas and Zeiss glass, with a bit higher price point than current releases, or b) a whole new SL line ("Super Luxury") that beats the pants off of the competition, but at prices closer to the Otus?

Or perhaps you think Canon could do both?

Nine Canon Designs Recognized With iF Design Awards

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<p>TOKYO, February 28, 2014—Canon Inc. announced today that nine Canon designs were recognized by iF International Forum Design GmbH with prestigious 2014 iF Design Awards in the product design and communication design categories.</p>
<p><span style="line-height: 1.5em;">iF Product Design Awards went to the EOS 5D Mark III and EOS 100D (EOS Rebel SL1 or EOS Kiss X7 in other regions) digital SLR cameras, the PowerShot N compact digital camera, the LEGRIA mini (VIXIA mini or IVIS mini) camcorder, the PIXMA MG7150 / MG6450 / MG5550 (PIXUS MG7130 / N/A / MG5530 in Japan) inkjet printers, the i-SENSYS LBP7680Cx / 7110Cw (N/A / imageCLASS LBP7001Cw or N/A / Satera LBP7110C) color laser beam printers, the WUX450 multimedia projector, and the LE-5W LED projector. The iF Communication Design Award went to the user interface for the EOS M compact-system camera.</span></p>
<p><!--more--></p>
<div id="attachment_15975" style="width: 565px" class="wp-caption alignnone"><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/awards.jpg"><img class="size-large wp-image-15975" alt="Canon iF Design Award Winners | Click for Larger" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/02/awards-555x1024.jpg" width="555" height="1024" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Canon iF Design Award Winners | Click for Larger</p></div>
<p>Established in 1953, iF Design Awards are recognized as one of the most prestigious awards within the field of design. Every year iF honors excellent design in three disciplines: product, communication and packaging design.</p>
<p>Canon won its first iF Product Design Award in 1989 for an office copying machine and, since that time, has been awarded for a wide range of products, including cameras, video camcorders and copying machines. This year marks Canon’s 20th consecutive year of winning iF Design Awards and brings the Company’s cumulative award count to 90. Encouraged by the recognition of the Company’s design excellence, Canon will continue striving to realize products that combine the highest levels of performance and design.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Are EOS cameras perfect? Which design changes would you implement?

Often I read about the fact that Canon is not innovating their cameras, despite Canon being listed among the most innovating companies out there.

From such readings, I start wandering about how could Canon actually improve the EOS line, and would like to ask your opinion. What would you suggest to change, especially in EOS pro bodies (and maybe pro lenses)?

I am asking the question mainly for curiosity, and also because I have my own wish list of new features, twists and new products; maybe you can explain why my personal wishes actually won’t work.

The changes I would love to be implemented are, for instance:

1. Firmware changes (low implementation cost):
I would like a mode where I could set Aperture and Time - essentially a manual mode, and, instead of ISO, I would like to set exposure compensation; the camera should be able to set automatically the ISO in order to over or under expose according to my setting.
In such a special mode, I would change Aperture with the main dial, Time with the main dial keeping pressed the SET button on the rear dial, and exposure compensation with the rear dial (permutation of functions may be also possible).

2. Physical changes (medium implementation cost):
From the 5d line, I would disintegrate the mode dial. I would change modes by keeping pressed a button while turning the dial. I would also display the mode in the viewfinder (I know I am asking too much here, mode visible in the viewfinder is a feature differentiating the 1 series).

3. New product (high implementation cost and risky):
I would make a special version of one pro body and some selected lenses: I would use structural aerospace grade carbon fiber composites (impregnated fiber or pre-preg) for lenses and camera body chassis. The internal optical formula and the electronics would remain the same, as in the “low cost” version. We would have a 600mm f4 “low cost” at 10k€, and a 600mm f4 CFC at ??k€. I am sure Nasa would seriously give a hard look at such gears for their next shipment to the ISS. I know some who would buy a 10k€ 1dxCarbon and a 20k€ 600mmf4Carbon.
What do you think? Is really Canon not innovating enough?

Thanks!

Neon Bright Stockholm

Hello everyone. First I'd like to thank the forum for the inspiration given to me.

I would like to present you my latest project "Neon Bright Stockholm". I've been to Stockholm few days ago, and although I've liked the city, the climate was really cloudy and not photographically perfect.
In this project I portray the city of Stockholm under different light. The chosen colors are from one of my favourite periods: Miami in the 80's. The heavy tone retouching and the neon bright colors mirrors my idea.
Please tell me what you think. I'm extremely courious about it. :)

The whole project is here:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.817776884902726.1073741848.806331619380586&type=1

And a few photos will be uploaded on my 500px page in the next days, feel free to look at it and give me advices.

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Is Dual Pixel Tech Coming to the EOS 5D Mark III?

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<p>PlanetMitch over at <a href="http://www.planet5d.com" target="_blank">Planet5D</a> speculates about the possibility of adding Dual Pixel Technology to the EOS 5D Mark III. With Canon adding it to the Cinema EOS line, can we expect the same thing for the EOS lineup as well?</p>
<p>Mitch asked Canon, and received the types of answers you’d expect.</p>
<p>This would certainly change the game for the EOS 5D Mark III and adding features to an existing Canon DSLR.</p>
<p><strong>Says PlanetMitch

</strong><em>“Tho of course, we don’t know if it is going to be added to the Canon EOS 5D Mark III or even the Canon EOS C300 and who knows how long Canon has been putting Dual Pixel capable sensors out… but we do now know that they shipped cameras with capable sensors before they had the firmware necessary to make it all work.”<strong>

</strong></em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://blog.planet5d.com/2014/02/is-dual-pixel-autofocus-coming-to-the-canon-eos-5d-mark-iii/" target="_blank">Read the full article</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Canon 5D3 SD and CF testing (slow slot problem)

There's general dismay over the crappy SD performance of the 5D3. There are various theories I've read about the performance and what the camera is doing, one of them is that the camera is downclocking the CF card. Canon wouldn't comment on it in their forums other than to say they don't comment on third party websites.

So I did some testing today with three cards:

Lexar 800x 128G CF = ~50MB/sec write speed (rated write speed 120MB/sec)
SanDisk Ultra 30M/s 64G SDXC = ~10MB/sec write speed (sigh) (rated write speed 30MB/sec)
SanDisk Extreme Plus 64G Micro SDXC = ~20MB/sec write speed (rated read speed 80MB/sec, this hits the camera's hardware cap for writing to SD)

I wanted to find out if the camera was indeed downclocking the CF card and/or what the algorithm was in terms of writing to the cards. I came up with four propositions:

1. The cards were written to serially at their fastest rate.
2. The cards were written to in parallel at their fastest rate.
3. The faster card was downgraded to the speed of the slower card with serial writes.
4. The faster card was downgraded to the speed of the slower card with parallel writes.

I considered that one or several of these approaches might be used, depending on the configuration of the camera in terms of RAW and JPEG and which card was receiving which.

For my method I just focused on the same subject and shot away at high speed until the buffer was full, then let the buffer drain. I marked time at the buffer fill point and when the writing stopped. There were two exceptions in that the faster SD card paired with the CF, in L,L mode, I couldn't fill the buffer, so I stopped after 25 seconds and then let it drain. And, with the faster SD card two of the algorithms looked like they could predict the result and I wanted to try to differentiate them so I continued to run the shutter past the buffer fill point. The result did not change much. Cards were formatted (SD to low level) between every test run.

I used each card running solo in RAW mode to obtain a baseline reading/estimate for its write speed figuring this would have the least camera processing overhead and the bulk of the work is writing to the card.

These speeds and the data written during each test run were then used to plug into the 4 theories above, and the theories who's prediction matched the observations were flagged out with green boxes on their predicted times.

Some basic observations:

1. writing to multiple was the same as writing separate if the format was identical, so this didn't have any benefit or detriment.

2. no downclocking prediction better explained something that simple serial and parallel predictions could explain, and the simple parallel and serial predictions explained some configurations better than the downclocking predictions. So it would seem there is no downclocking and this I think was just a handwaving explanation that people have come up with to explain the degraded performance when an SD card is plugged in, especially if RAW was being used.

3. Canon sucks for crippling the 5D3 SD slot. It's crippled though, not useless as can be seen below.

4. In the table the MB/s rates are calculated for the amount of data written to a card and then using the total time for the camera to finish writing. So it's an "effective" number that shows the gimping down based on the SD card from the max rate of the card. The T() columns indicate the time predicted to handle the writing load in that configuration for the card based on the observed speed for the card operating in solo, RAW mode (least overhead for the camera).

5. The effective performance of the various configurations is in the eFPS column. This is the number of frames you are getting per second with the buffer discounted (continuous shooting). So, the fastest performance (I didn't test simple L mode on any cards) in the chart is L,L with a 20MB/s write SD card. This is faster than writing RAW solo to an 50MB/sec CF card. So if you are not a RAW shooter then you can do just fine using the SD card as a failsafe as-you-go backup. In this case I couldn't fill the buffer.

6. The absolute no-no is writing JPG to CF and RAW to SD. This brings you down to a best case performance of 0.3 frames per second which is only 20% of the speed of the CF card on its own writing RAW.

Conclusions

1. Downclocking theory holds no water. It would appear that the best theory for the 5D3's algorithm is simply that it is writing to both cards in parallel to the max speed of the card when it has matching formats (R,R) or (L,L) and I would assume other similar configurations, and so just ends up capped by the gimped SD card performance. When formats mismatch, the camera cannot write in parallel, but must write serially. I'd assume first writing the RAW image, then doing the JPG conversion, and writing the JPG.

2. knowing how the camera deals with the SD card does give you some options to use the SD card still... An SD card can cause exaggerated damage to perceived performance then because the write speed of the slot is capped, plus as in my case, a card labelled "30M/s" only has "10M/s" write speed, and then the use of a mismatched format will trigger serial writes... and if the larger data format is written to the SD card you get a massive disaster for performance. if you use it to create backup JPG files at S1 size then you should get maybe 85% of the speed of shooting CF RAW at full size itself. This is not bad. CF/MRAW + SD/M in my test ran at 98% of the speed of full sized RAW on its own. CF/mRAW + SD/L was 84% of full sized RAW on its own. I think these are all viable configurations, I like mRAW for my shooting and I like to have the L sized JPG just in case I needed more resolution.

3. some configurations are performance killers, RAW should never be written to the SD, ever ever basically. Never using an SD card in any configuration though is a paranoid solution based on the downclocking theory which I think these tests discredit.

4. using an SD card incapable of achieving 20MB/sec is going to harm you, and from what I've read this is the fastest the camera can do on the SD slot. It looks like the rule of thumb may be to divide the read speed by three to guess at what it will do in the Canon 5D3 and cap it at 20MB/sec. Remember to never judge the write speed of these cards by their labels...

6. The microSD in an adapter seems to be a perfectly fine option. I got this to use in a GoPro Hero but will now share it with the 5D3. However, it formatted a lot slower than the 64 gig Ultra card.

7. I'd pay to fix this SD slot. My preference was always to use SD for convenience because I can just slip it into my Macbook without needing a card reader, but this is the end of that.


You are free to use / modify / publish / criticize / improve / disprove these results here or on any forum, blog, website, whatever. In my reading over the last couple of days I didn't see anyone trying to comprehensively test these configs to try to answer the questions, just a lot of hearsay and guesswork. So if you use this for anything just credit/blame Chromatropic please.

5D3perf.jpg

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