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5d Mkii - How to remove user copyright info - WITHOUT EOS UTILITY!!

Got a 5d Mkii - replaced with 6d - Looking to sell the 5d.
USB on the 5d seems to have failed. Tried 3 Win 7x64 machines, different leads, never shows up. Sometimes when you plug the USB into camera, it shows "BUSY" on top LCD, (as I would expect) but only briefly, and with no result. Annoying as I've hardly used the USB, only to calibrate the lenses.

Anyways - How can I remove my name from the usercopyright field?
I put the name in with "EOS Utility software"
The "Delete copyright information" option in the menus is always grayed out. (Why?)
Tried "Clear camera settings" and removing both batteries etc - still showing on Lightroom import.

Any thoughts....
Ta

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FD to EOS adapters

I've searched around the internet a lot and am aware of the Ed Mika conversions for FD lenses.
Having got about 10 FD lenses still, I am wondering about getting a secondhand 5D mk2 and using some FD lenses on it.
Has anyone tried this latest development below which doesn't involve using any optics in the conversion process?

http://www.fdtoef.com/

I can't find any reviews anywhere, but they have only recently been introduced. The advantage is that it's reversible, and I could try it on numerous lenses to see which perform best.

More generally, do people think this is worth trying? I currently have a 600D with a couple of EF-S lenses, and was wondering whether I would see noticeable improvements in picture quality using the 5Dmk2 with some FD lenses. Starting to buy a used 5Dmk2 with a number of EF lenses is out of the question financially.

I would be photographing landscapes, using a tripod, and apertures from f8 to f16.

Thanks for any information/suggestions

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Product Advisory for the EOS-1D X & EOS-1D C

HTML:
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<strong>Autofocus Recall</strong>


This notice is to proactively inform our customers of the details of the phenomena described below along with Canon’s support actions. Because we value the trust our customers have placed in us, we are dedicated to continuously improving product quality and delivering industry-leading service and support. We offer our sincerest apologies to any customer who may be inconvenienced.</p>
<p><b>Affected Products</b>

EOS-1D X Digital SLR Camera

EOS-1D C Cinema EOS Camera</p>
<p><b>Phenomena</b>

In some units of the models listed below, there is a possibility that the following phenomena may occur due to wear caused by insufficient lubrication within the camera’s driving mechanism.</p>
<p>1. AF searches but does not lock in on the subject.

(Caused by minute particles produced by wear mentioned above.)

2. The image shown in the viewfinder is “blurry” or “not steady”.

(Occurs if wear progresses.)</p>
<p><b>Potentially Affected Products</b>

1. EOS-1D X: If the sixth digit of the serial number is “1”, “2”, “3”, “4”, “5”, “6” or “7”, the phenomena described above may occur.

2. EOS-1D C: If the sixth digit of the serial number is “1”, the phenomena described above may occur.</p>
<p>NOTE: If the camera’s battery compartment contains one of the markings illustrated below, the camera is NOT affected by the

phenomena described above even if the sixth digit of the serial number is one of the numbers mentioned above.<b>

</b></p>
<p><b>    </b>Markings of UNAFFECTED cameras</p>
<table width="81%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="371">
<p align="center"><img style="border: 0px;" alt="" src="http://www.usa.canon.com/app/images/support/A-mark.jpg" width="211" height="136" border="0" /></p>
</td>
<td>
<p align="center"><img style="border: 0px;" alt="" src="http://www.usa.canon.com/app/images/support/black-mark.jpg" width="175" height="152" border="0" /></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="371">
<p align="center">An “A” mark</p>
</td>
<td>
<p align="center">A black mark on the silver bracket</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><b>Support</b>

Potentially affected cameras will be inspected and repaired free of charge. If you own one of the potentially affected cameras please contact our Customer Support Center.</p>
<p>This information is for residents of the United States and Puerto Rico only. If you do not reside in the USA or Puerto Rico, please contact the Canon Customer Support Center in your region.</p>
<p>Please <a href="https://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/professional/productRegistration.action?nodeCid=0901e024803b5c73">register the EOS-1D X</a> and the <a href="https://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/professional/productRegistration.action?nodeCid=0901e024807a21e1">EOS-1D C</a>. By registering, we will be able to notify you via email when service updates are available.</p>
<p>Thank you,

Customer Support Operations

Canon U.S.A., Inc</p>

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Stuck Pixels on the 5D3

Hi,

I just noticed that I've got two pixels on my sensor that are stuck - one is red while the other appears white. Importing as DNG into Lightroom adjusts automatically for these stuck pixels and these are visible only before importing.

I'm unsure whether these should be a cause of alarm. Net-searches suggest that it happens with all digital cameras and there is nothing to worry about. The camera is under warranty but I'm not too sure I want to send the camera to Canon for 3-4 weeks.

Thanks in advance ...

Cheers ... J.R.

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Canon 24-70 f2.8 II. How much AFMA does your copy need? What's acceptable?

My copy of 24-70 f/2.8 II needs -9 at wide end and 0 at tele end on my 5D III. My Canon 70-200 f/2.8 II needs 0 at either end, and my 100L also needs 0. Some of my fast primes including 35L, 50L, 85L II range between -1 and -3.

A brand new Canon 17-40 f/4L I just borrowed needed -6 at wide and 0 at tele.

-9 seems a tad too much for a $2100 lens, so I'm just wondering what 24-70 f/2.8 II owners have experienced with AFMA (and 5D III)? Is it worth sending in the lens to Canon while still under warranty for calibration?

Is my copy of 5D III partly at fault here, as the body seems to need Minus AFMA on lenses, never positive. The body is out of warranty, but should I send in both the 24-70 II and body to Canon for calibration together (does Canon even calibrate a specific lens+body combo?).

Any help would be appreciated.

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Question about editing for online consumption

I edit on a 27" iMac which has a pretty nice IPS LCD display. I make sure that my Lightroom exported JPEGs look good on screen before publishing them or sending to other people to make sure the color space change and compression haven't ruined the look. When I come to work and look at them on my office/commodity grade Dell 24" monitor, I am often pretty disappointed. The colors can appear clipped in some cases, muted in others. Contrast is much lower.

So, my question is...how can I (or should I) take in to consideration the wide range of screens the image might be viewed on?

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Is This the EOS 3D?

HTML:
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<strong>An image worth investigating</strong>

Below are some screencaps that I received today from a Chinese forum called “Weibo”. In it, you will see a blurred out Canon camera, which isn’t all that significant.</p>
<p>However, on the strap we see what appears to be “EOS 3D”, I do not see a fold in the strap that would possibly be hiding a “0″ for the 30D, nor is it a 7.</p>
<p><strong>What do you think?</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-13737" alt="Canon-EOS-3D-camera" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera.jpg" width="491" height="437" /></a></p>
<p> </p>
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera-2.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-13736" alt="Canon-EOS-3D-camera-2" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera-2.jpg" width="491" height="467" /></a></p>
<p><a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera-3.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-13738" alt="Canon-EOS-3D-camera-3" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera-3.jpg" width="491" height="443" /></a> <a href="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera-4.jpg"><img class="alignnone size-full wp-image-13739" alt="Canon-EOS-3D-camera-4" src="http://www.canonrumors.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Canon-EOS-3D-camera-4.jpg" width="491" height="450" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Also appeared on [<a href="http://photorumors.com/2013/06/17/is-this-the-upcoming-canon-eos-3d-camera/" target="_blank">PR</a>]</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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$1000 .. what to buy

I have a a budget of $1000 for my next lens.. which one should I buy ?

I trying to decide between the Canon EF 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro, Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L and the Canon EF 85mm f/1.8


currently have the following

24-105 f/4
35 f/1.4
70-200 f/2.8 IS
70-300mm f/4-5.6L IS
50 f/1.8

Canon 5DM3

I mostly shoot events and portraits and a few landscapes. would live to get into macro which is why I'm considering the 100mm f/2.8L. on the landscape end, the widest I have is 24.. not sure if going for the 17-40 would make sense in this case.

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Is there a better time to buy a 5D mkIII?

Hello Canonistas,

I've tracked the 5D mkIII price for a little while and am wondering when I should pull the trigger.

I know Canon's MAP pricing complicates matters, but wonder if the price is going to drop a little bit after the June 22nd rebate period expires. My thought process is: if Canon has $200 off the body and enforces the strict $3299 pricing - is there a chance B&H or the other big companies will be able to push this price lower, after the Canon rebates end? Just trying to snag a good deal, wondering if history has been any indicator in the past.

I'll be upgrading from a 60D, photography is my hobby, and wondered what some of the seasoned forum posters thought about buying now, after 22nd, or buying in the fall?

Happy Monday and thanks for your thoughts!

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Flash Newbie: Flash Photography Concept

Can someone enlighten me, I acquired 430ex ii for my 6D recently.

I am using 6D for six months, its my first dslr. I am used to Av mode, auto ISO, minimum shutter speed set.
The camera will meter properly and under or overexpose accordingly base from exposure compensation.

My concept of having a flash is that. The camera will meter the scene automatically as if it wasn't using flash. According to settings. Then the function of a flash is just an addon light to the scene.

But I don't understand what is actually happening when using flash in Av mode:

In Av mode with flash. My shutter speed goes less than the min shutter speed set in the camera.
ISO stuck to 400 (why is this?). I can not control my ambient light.


I know I can use manual, but what I want is the camera is able to meter on the scene automatically, basically use only exposure compensation for ambient and FEC for flash add on. How can I do this.

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Canon 100mm macro L or Zeiss 50mm makro?

Hi all,

I wanted to hear if anyone has experience with both of these lenses. The Canon 100mm f2.8 L macro and the Zeiss 50mm f2 makro. I'm very interested in picking up a macro lens. And I have kind of narrowed it down to these 2. But I think they are pretty different lenses.

The macro is just something I want to try out really so I'm not 100% sure how I want to use it? I like the idea of the Zeiss being 50mm as I could also use it as my walkaround 50mm lens. I'm not sure if I can use the Canon macro for other than macro? And in any case I do have the 24-105 and I don't use it at the 105 end very often. So the Zeiss could be 2 lenses in one for me? I'm not afraid of the manual focus. But I don't want to go to the Zeiss route if the macro isn't that great. Maybe get the Canon and pick up a different 50mm(as I do want just a general purpose 50 too).

Any thoughts?

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Why no lenses like 35-135mm anymore?

often I wish there was a lens like 35-135mm f2.8. there are many situations where I don't need to be wide or telephoto, but there's no time to switch 70-200 to 24-70, for example.

I know these zoom lenses existed once upon a time. but as far as I know there isn't a pro f2.8 version of such lenses. anyone knows why no one seems interested in making these?

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SL1 as a "travel" body

I do my serious shooting with a 5D III, but I had been looking for a while for a small, lightweight camera for family pics and travel. I had considered a high end compact but it somehow seemed too much of a compromise, particularly in operation (shutter lag, viewfinder, etc). When the SL1 came out it seemed an ideal solution, and after having spent some time with it I can say that for me this camera (with the 40mm pancake) is almost perfect as a lightweight complement to the 5D/III. The great thing, for me, is that both cameras share so many things - the optical view finder (obviously), the Canon layout of the buttons, and the general shooting method. The only real difference in operation is the lack of back button focus (and the lack of the second wheel).

I feel Canon produced a wonderful little camera in the SL1, and for me it is the perfect "informal" complement to the amazing 5D III. I figured others might be wondering about this so I thought I'd share my positive experience!

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What does "!" symbol mean on 5D3 in viewfinder?

HI all,

I"m trying to scour through my manual for my 5D3....but so far, haven't found the answer.

This morning, I took the camera out to shoot some bracketed exposures....5 of them to do some HDR work.

I noticed in my viewfinder, on the lower right corner, there was a little circle with an exclamation point (!) in the middle.

Can someone help me find what this means...it wouldn't go away...

I'm home now..had been a couple hours, just turned it on and that symbol is still on in the viewfinder. What does this mean?

Thank you,

cayenne

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