Hey everyone there is a local ad up for sale on a canon 1ds mark II and 20-35 2.8L for 900$ I saw both and they look great for the age and presumed use considering its was owned by a pro more than likely. You guys think it would be a good deal if I offered them 800$? If anything I bet I could resell on ebay for a profit.

There is a little price war going on at ebay between Get It Digital and Big Value. The price has fallen $75 since this morning. Get It Digital appears to only sell USA warranty models, where as Big Value is a crap shoot. Nice price for this nice little camera...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=171040563426&item=171040563426&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466

As I asked the forum some weeks ago, I am looking for an small body for high altitude hiking. Some of you told me to buy non Canon products. But I was in doubt ....

So I looked at the 100D.
But when I tried the body with my 12-24 4.0 Tokina in my local shop, the AF was very slow and moving forward and backward, hunting for sharpness. So i took just indoor pics thath did not look very impressive.
The preference of this body for me is image quality.
Does anybody own this Camera and can tell me, how good the IQ is?
Should I stay with Canon or should I switch to an Lumix DMC-GH3 or an Fuji X-E1?


By the way: In my opninion the IQ of the 600D is better then the 700D, as we checked in our local foto-club...
The 700D just seems to be an replacement with very little improvements. Changing the name clears the bad image of the 650D with the grip problems.

Hi everyone,

I'd like to know how many of you buy insurance for your camear gears? If so,

1) From whom (company)?
2) How much you pay?
3) Have you ever filed a claim (was the process painful or smooth)?
4) How much you get back on a filed claim (%)?

I started assisting w/wedding shoots and have found through the hectics and hustles of the wedding day, gears could be easily dropped. So I figured insuring them is a good item and worth the investment.

I live in he U.S (NYC) currently use:
1) 5D Mark II
2) 70-200 f/2.8 II
3) 24-105 f/4
4) 50 f/1.8 II
5) Sigma 35 f/1.4 DG

Thanks for your inputs!!!

Can anyone confirm that a lens' sweet spot is typically 2 stops closed from the lens' maximum aperture? IOW, if my max is f/2.8, f/5.6 is at least a starting point to test for the lens' sweet spot. Comments?

I have just brought a used Canon EOS 5D MK II, I also have a few L lenses and other expensive equipment. I have a wedding coming up very soon and I was wondering if anyone could recommend anyone who I could get insurance with for the usual Professional indemnity, Public Liability and equipment insurance?

Thanks

Where should I buy from?
eBay? Amazon?
What should my budget be?

I've ordered small unit - similar to the jar opener - from eBay from a seller in China

But others, I've seen, range from £50 - £150
I'm confused about some of these - do I need a rail system in place first?

Thanks


Omar

I look at TV and film with a different eye now
I don't see anything that I don't think I would have trouble reproducing with my Canon 60D

What deficiencies does a DSLR have?
What does a £10,000 professional camera give that a DSLR doesn't give?

- recording time - limited to 12 minutes
Why is this? Is this because of the capacity of the SD card?
Is it possible to shoot straight to a hard drive?
(I found this wasn't possible - I had to shoot video and then transfer to my hard drive - this was a massive pain)

- swiping effect
Not sure if this is the right name - I'm sure you guys know what I mean - where the image goes jelly
Surely it can't take a genius to fix this?

- focusing??
I bought my 60D instead of the Nikon 5100 (which was much cheaper) after reading that one should ignore the automatic focusing on video of a camera - the professionals have to do it manually come what may
But... the follow focus mechanisms I've seen is a must have

What else?
What would a Black Magic camera for example give over the 60D or 5D MKIII?

What can't I do with my 60D?

Intrigued to know


Omar

I've seen these on eBay
Fairly cheap
A set of 6 for under £10
Can't remember the exact price
Should I get? Or not needed??

Thanks


Omar

I told a group of people that the Canon performed better opitcally, based upon REAL comparisons. Not to mention the price difference. I was told that I was wrong and the testing and reviews had to be wrong, because the Sigma is better. Why did I get this response?

Greetings!

This is of my uncle's excellent blues band on Long Island NY.

The first clip of the female singer is the Rokinon 85mm 1.4 and the second clip/song is the Canon 50mm 1.8 (which has considerably less noise) and these are my only two lenses I need to think about a 24-70, 70-200 or other primes. I believe I used AWB for both.

It is apparent I need to buy a monopod since my handheld was shaky and no IS for either video.

I'm looking for general impressions/feedback. If you have advice on how to improve the quality/sharpness of the video with less noise as well (lens suggestions/settings). Also, any advice on contrast/coloring and what program you use. I used FCPx to do this. I know that AE has a sharpening tool that may have helped and I'm sure it may have a denoiser for that second clip but still new.

Thanks!

http://youtu.be/yAxFcBCIc9E

I have the same problem in Windows and Mac
I view the raw images I've taken
The photo will look bright and well lit
5 seconds later, it will appear dark
What's happening? Why does it do this?

If it was just Windows, I could blame Windows - but it happens on Mac as well
Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks


Omar

Ok, the Sigma 120-300 arrived to me on Wednesday. Work and weather prevented me from getting much time to test it out. On Saturday morning I took time time shooting at home and testing out the lens.
I was testing using my Canon 1Dx. I noticed it was back focusing a fair amount. I setup a focus test using FocusTune (Win) and confirmed it was in fact back focusing. I tested it at the max 300 and f2.8. =5 gave me the best average focus. Visually I might have gone with minus 4. I did some more samples and then needed to get to an event.

I used the new lens at the state softball finals. Below are some sample shots. I only adjusted exposure slightly. The images were shot in JPG on the camera. I'll right a full review and post the reports from FocusTune later this week. I also need to test it on the 5DIII body as well.


At 2.8 the focus was a bit soft, I think -4 might have been a better choice. Initial impression:
(based on a sample set of 1 lens)

1. Its not a lens you can put on the camera and just go shooting. The USB dock may be a required item.
2. Lots of potential, if I can get the focus set right. Wish I didn't have to spend time seeking the right adjustment.
3. The tripod ring is better - more substantial. But, it is not as smooth as my L series lenses when rotating the camera.

f2.8 300mm 1/6400 ISO200



f2.8 300mm 1/5000 ISO200


f3.5 300mm 1/1600 ISO100


f4 120mm 1/1600 ISO200



f4 300mm 1/3200 ISO200

Hey guys just wondering if I should open up and remove the front element myself and blow away the dust or have a Canon service center do it? The lens is out of warranty. Any estimates on how much that would cost? Has anyone removed the dust themselves and was it easy? Seems easy enough but just worried I might damage something.

Appreciate any advice, thanks.

Hi CR folks,

My gear is lacking at the wide end. I used to have the 17-40 but sold it off earlier this year with the thoughts of upgrading to the 16-35.

I've tried a few copies of the 16-35 II but have been left unimpressed with the IQ. The upgrade doesn't feel an upgrade to me so I'm looking at the TSE 17mm.

As I already have the 24-70 II, I'm only missing the range between 18-24 which I believe I can crop or zoom with my feet.

Thoughts on this ... downsides besides losing the AF and 2.8 aperture?

Thanks in advance.

Cheers ... J.R.

I can't remember where I saw it...
Someone made a simple contraption to keep the camera steady
They stuck a screw under the camera which had a string attached to it...
At the end of the string was a large metal ring

They stepped on the metal ring and stretched up
The tension on the string helped keep the camera steady

Anyone know what I'm talking about!!?

Any links to how to make guide would be great
It's easy to make I know - I just want to know what type of screw, string and ring used

Also are there any disadvantages to using this system?
I think it's a pretty good idea - maybe not 100% perfect - but close to being as good as a tripod or monopod??

If not using a tripod or monopod, is there anything else that would help keep the camera steady?
(Apart from holding the camera right!)

Thanks


Omar

the time has come to purchase this bad boy> but i have noticed that the original(version I) is just as good and cheaper or am i just dreaming and version II is much better> any one with experience with both glass care to share there thoughts> pros, cons, etc...

So I was daydreaming about the 200-400 lens today and something occurred to me. Without the built in 1.4 extender "activated" the focal length is 200-400 and with the extender activated the focal length is 280- 560. So does that mean that since there is an overlap from 280-400 that you can get to that range of focal length two ways: one way with the extender activated and the other way without? If this is true is there any difference in the image depending on how you get to that overlapping focal length? For example I know that with regular (not built in) extenders like you 2x, you lose a stop of light when you attach it to your lens. Does activating the built in extender affect your maximum aperture? Although the answers to these questions will never affect me in real life (as my wife would kill me if I spent this much on a lens), I was curious to know.
Thanks

Hey everyone. I'm looking to buy a backup camera that's not a DSLR but has decent image quality. I think I've narrowed it town to the Canon G1X and the Sony RX100. Size isn't a huge concern, but I was wondering which I should choose. Thoughts?

I have a Canon 60D + 50mm F1.8 lens

It's on shutter speed of 50, FPS of 24 and aperture of 1.8 (what I want) - I have on manual exposure
I tested yesterday. All fine

I shoot today. Damn!!
Over exposed!!
There wasn't a control for the exposure - or at least I couldn't find it

I put on auto exposure - all fine now and beautiful video
BUT I wanted the blurred background look
The aperture was pushed up to a higher value and no longer changeable

What am I doing wrong?
(This was actually my first attempt to do video outside!!)

Thanks


Omar

My name is Emanuele Del Bufalo

About 3 weeks ago, I bought a Canon EOS 5D Mark III, A couple of days ago I had the chance to try it at night, for a session of astrophotography.

I experienced an issue on the LCD screen.
By activating the Live View for manual focussing, the screen instead of being sharp is completely full of noise, zooming x5 or x10 degraded by the noise.
The strange thing that made me worry is that this problem is always present regardless of the ISO set.
In the first few shots I had a high ISO value and the problem was present, also decreasing the ISO in low to medium levels from 800 to 100 noise and distortion on the screen are always present.
I would point out that the problem is not visible in the final result, the picture is sharp and the file is splendid, the excellent performance I expected from a device such as the 5D Mark III.
By changing the various settings of the live view and ISO, I noticed that if you disable the extension ISO H1-H2 and L decreases the noise on the LCD screen.

I did several tests using the camera body that I used in prior an EOS 500D and the LCD screen not absolutely similar problems. Mounting the same lens setting both cameras in M Av or Tv p with the same settings LIve View the 500D is much more 'sharp and the noise is obviously visible in H1 but does not disturb the focus of the scene tp much.

and even more 'important, if the live view at high ISO is quite noisy in the canon 500D I expect a much better situation in a Canon 5D Mark III or at least similar, definitely not worse.

I've spent the last 24 hours doing online research on this problem, without much success, I do not find anything about this problem.

A friend of mine has the same camera and noticed the same problem.

Please consider this mail that I send you, I'm trying to solve this my problem, I bought all my new equipment to become a professional photographer and I can not afford to have purchased a camera body that is not perfect as I expected.

I am attaching some photos of the live view of my 5D Mark III where the problem is visible at different zoom and various ISO.

I look forward to your response, please do not underestimate the problem

Sincerely


Emanuele

I know there are some significant differences between the 24-70L/70-200L/85L, but price isn't one of them. I'm hoping to gain a little insight from those who have a broader arsenal than I do. The subjects are infant to small groups, like a family of four or five. I don't often shoot super wide or from far away but I don't know if I want to limit myself to 85mm with a lens this expensive, although I'm very comfortable with moving around to frame.

I currently shoot primarily with a 50mm 1.4 and love the image quality, sharpness, and DOF options when shooting. I used to never go below f2.8 but I came away with some great shots last weekend at f2 and they've got me thinking twice about utilizing the shallower DOF. I shoot with a 5D3 and don't care much for IS. The only other lens I have is the "good at everything but great at nothing" 24-105. Although to it's credit, I like the images it captures on the wider end.

Anyways, opinions welcomed. Thank you for your time!

So, a little story...

I live/work in Japan, but am an American citizen only. I have a job that grants me SOFA status, which basically means though I am a civilian, I work on a military base here and am granted the same privileges as an Active Duty military member.

That status granted me the ability to purchase a brand new 5D3 last summer at the base exchange, as opposed to having to buy one out on the town for a much higher price (sidenote, most Japanese electronics are cheaper in the states than Japan).

I flew to America a few weeks ago, and on my return flight, I decided to check my camera bag as opposed to carrying, so I would have a lighter load at the three airports I must always traverse. Mistake. When I arrived home, and began unpacking everything, I noticed that the multidirectional button/pad seal was torn.. no biggie... Except then when I tried using the button, it was stuck to one side, would not operate, etc...

I tried messing with it, tried getting it to work, and actually ended up breaking it off. Now my 5D3 is pretty much useless to me without that function. I emailed Canon, explained the situation of the camera, my situation, they said send it in, so I did.

Got the email today that the camera is being fixed under warranty, no charge. I didn't know their warranty covered things (airline transport) that most companies would just laugh at. I was expecting a couple hundred dollar repair, instead it cost me the 45 dollars or so to USPS priority mail the camera to their California service center.

In short, Canon just earned my continued business, despite me being a long time canon fan (Canon G2-PS800-PS1000-SX10-Rebel T1i-5D2-and now onto my 5D3, S95, and EOS-M. I don't really use the S95 anymore with the M in the stable)

Just wanted to share. Comment if you feel like

Hi all,

I have been swamped with work and look forward to taking my 5d MK3 out this weekend for some video/photo fun and learning experiences. There are a few things I need to get (Variable ND and CF card currently using a 16gb Sandisk SD leftover from 60D).

I see that Dave Dugdale is in the mix of creating/mixing an instructional video for the 5d MK 3 primarily for video. I also saw that f-Stop academy has one and if you google a few more options come up.

I wanted to get some general and specific feedback.

I'd like to obviously get more proficient at both video and photography and while many will be inclined to say read forums and practice I can't help but think that well produced video tutorials and books/pdfs are already available to speed up the learning curve. (this includes: capturing AND editing video/photo)

Thanks in advance!