So I'm in the market for a 50mm 1.4 (I cannot justify the additional cost of the 1.2L for what I'm doing, no matter how much I'd love to get it) after running into AF issues with a Canon 50mm 1.4. I have previously tried a Sigma 50mm 1.4 and LOVED how sharp it was at 1.4 - 2 (primarily where I would use it), but had major issues with a shifting depth of field and AF issues.

As I mentioned though, I loved the IQ on the Sigma. But I am wondering what the ratio of this lens having AF issues is, and for those who owned one and had AF issues: whether sending it in to Sigma definitively fixed the AF issues for the body you were using.

So two questions really, for those who own one of these:
If you own one, did you have AF issues out of the box?
If you did have AF issues, did sending it into Sigma fix it?

I have a 14 day trip to indonesia at the end of the summer. I love street photography and would like that to be a huge part of the trip while i am there.
I currently have a canon 5d III, 5d II, 24-105,70-2002.8 ii, 85 1.8, 50 1.8, 16-35 ii, 100mm 2.8.
I also have the canon AE-1 and a 50mm 1.8.
I feel like having the AE-1 has changed the way i look at street photography.
Its such an easier smaller form.
So i have been looking at a few options as i dont want to take this full list of lenses to Indonesia.
1-Fuji Film X100s-fast focusing(sorta), small form, good focal length-fixed lens
2-Sigma 35 F/1.4 incredible sharp(apparently), works with 5d iii
3-renting a leica for that time period and see if that is the way i want to go

I shoot in such a photojournalistic style at what ever i do(event, wedding, street, portraits) i want to make sure the equipment i have fits that agenda.
I have been hoping forever that canon would come out with some digital randefinder but unless this new EOS M rumors comes true and is out of character for canon i am still back to these 3 options as far as i can tell...Thanks in advance for all your help.

I recently got back my 5D3 from CPS after dropping it. Everything was fine until I went to take some macro shots using Live View. Exposure seems way way off. It looks fine on screen, but comes out about 100 times darker than it should. If I take it off Live View and shoot regular, exposure is exactly what I want. Doing this on another 5D3 I don't have this problem.

It seems really weird to me this would be happening, and I'll probably just send it back to CPS for checking out, but I wanted to see if anyone else had experienced this and if they resolved it on their own.

Thanks,
-Chris

So I've found a link to the new firmware... I'm not claiming any responsibility for this, but other people on the site seem to have gone through with it, with good results. Apparently someone got a copy of the new firmware directly from Canon, on a memory stick, when they sent in there camera.

Let me know how you fair with it, if you do decide to try it

Happy shooting

Dear all of you,
anyone who use extenders with 70-200 f2.8 IS USM Mk I or Mk II?

I am evaluating to buy one of them listed but probably Mk I is out of production, right?
And, an extender delivers good image quality on this lense?

thanks a lot,

Just curious, but if Canon, or any of the other camera manufacturers came out with a good quality compact camera such as the RX1 or RX100, that could also make and receive calls, even use apps like whatsapp etc. Would you buy it?

What I mean is, a high quality compact camera designed primarily for photography but which also has the ability to make calls, whatsapp etc., rather than a phone that can do a little of everything, but which is primarily a phone.

What are your thoughts?

Canon Rebel T5i (700d) Hands-On

Enjoy!

;D ;D

So yet another wide lens question. Sorry. I am looking for an ultra wide lens for my Canon 6D. I have narrowed it down to two lenses of interest. The Tokina 16-28 F2.8 PRO FX and the Canon 16-35 F2.8L II. Please do not recommend a fish eye lens.

First thing, I know there is a big price difference. Canon being more expensive. This is one thing effecting my decision.

I have heard some positive things on the Tokina lens and wish to hear from anyone who has this lens or has used it. Is it optically better than the Canon? Any flare? How is sharpness? I am also aware the Tokina has a bulbous front element that prevents filters from being used. I suppose I can live with this. I mainly want to use this lens for landscape, street shots at night and even photograph the night sky.
I realize there are other lenses like the Canon 17-40 L but that is an F4. If I am doing any night photography an F2.8 would be better. Correct?

So. The Canon 16-35 L II or the Tokina 16-35 F2.8 PRO FX?

High definition video is approximately 2 megapixels. Most of Canon SLRs are 18 megapixels or more. 4k video is 8.3 megapixels. Why don't all the current body's feature 4k or higher video resolution?

This past week my house was robbed and I lost my 5DMkIII along with the 24-70MkII that was attached to it. Strangely not the Ona bag that it was in with another couple lenses in it. But no complaining there.

Anyways... my homeowners insurance is going to cover it. Thank god. Now I'm left with some decisions.

I'd like to replace my 5D with another one. And obviously the price at Big Value is pretty good. But I've seen conflicting information in the forums about whether it matters warranty-wise whether they're a Canon Authorized dealer.

So I'm looking on some input on: Is buying from Big Value a bad idea? I'd like to have the warranty, but am not sure that's worth $450, if there really is no warranty. It definitely says Canon USA Warranty on the ebay listing.

Secondly, if I can't take advantage of that, I might look at getting a 6D, which wasn't out when I purchased my 5D. I know this issue has been beat to death, but it would help me if someone could sum up the main points for me. What I think I'm hearing is same still quality, slightly slower autofocus, worse video. But if anyone has any real life examples with both, that would help me out a lot.

Thanks for your help on either of these questions!

I just bought a 70-200mm f/2.8L is mkii so my coffers are starting to run dry, but with what little is left I'm upgrading my 60D to a 5d mkii. So in my arsenal, I will have a 24-105, a 100mm f/2.8L IS Macro, a Rokinon Fisheye and a 50mm f/1.4. I'm probably going to ditch my 50mm and upgrade to the sigma 35mm f/1.4 in the after the body upgrade and after the extender purchase.

OK... now with all of that out of the way, I'm looking at pairing my 70-200 with an extender with a focus on image quality. Based on that alone, the Canon 2x extender is out of the running. I'm seriously considering the Canon Extender EF 1.4x II. I read from DP review or some online presence that the II is roughly the same quality as the III, but different build quality.

I've heard of Kenko and I've been told there is additional functionality with more lenses... but I'm otherwise entirely ignorant of the piece.

So is the consensus bang for buck the 1.4 ii? Or is there another option that yall would suggest?

Hi! Does anyone used an ND on the read filter holder of the EF 8-15? Is there anything out there with good quality for this? I like very much what I can do with my Lee Big Stopper and would love to be able to do things like that with the 8-15 too...

Thanks.

I own a wide variety of lenses, including the 24L II, 35L and the 24-105L. The 24-105L is a very solid lens, and I get great results from it in bright light,and particularly at f/5.6 or better.

However I have not been fully happy with the performance of the 24-105L at f/4.0. The image is not as sharp as I'd like. Also, the extra creative possibilities of f/2.8 on the 24-70 II were pretty appealing.

I went ahead and made the decision, and after two days out shooting with it have no regrets. The 24-70 II feels sharper at f/2.8 than the 24-105L does at f/4.

But what I'm most impressed about is the rendering, particularly for the OOF areas. The bokeh is loads better.... the 24-105L has quite ring-like bokeh, whereas the 24-70 II bokeh is fairly smooth across the blur disk (there is a small amount of onion-like structure if the blur area is under-exposed but not very noticeable). I now see why people compare the lens to the 24L II - the colours and rendering are fantastic.

What a great lens!

HI - I am new to off camera Lighting techniques. I own a 580 EXII. I am planning to try my hand on off camera lighting. Initially thought of getting the cable as a start up. Then saw the Youngnou YN-622C wireless trigger. So thought of jumping straight to wireless and skip the wired part (not sure how good an idea that is. thought of saving some money in the long run). I have plans to get a 430 ExII later. My Question is, if I use YN-622C, can I have the 580 be an off camera master and wirelessly trigger the 430 ExII or do I need to get a third YN-622C for the 430 exII?

Looking for a solution to the following problem: Have a photo contest where I need to be the shooter so using an assistant to press the shutter is not an option (unless I cheat ;^). I have an action shot in mind where I want a 10-second delay, then the camera shoots 6 or more shots at its max burst rate (6fps). I am the subject of the shot and I will be moving quickly.

The 5dmk3 multi-exposure mode seems to require the shutter button to be continously held down to take multiple shots so that doesn't seem to be an option.

Borrowed an Aputure timer that allows delayed start plus defined number of shots but that only shoots 2 shots per second.

Reviewed Canon user manual but didn't find a solution. Also looked at Canon's advanced timer but a search of Canon USA web site didn't even list that product so I couldn't find a user manual.

So, I think I am looking for a device that, after a user-defined delay, will fire the camera at its maximum bust rate for a user-defined number of shots. Anybody have any ideas?

Roger

hi friends,
planning to purchase Zeiss ZE Lenses 18mm T 3.5, 35MM T2, 50mm T 1.4, 85mm T 1.4 ranges to fulfill my primes for 5D Mark 3 i have following lenses
14mm(f2.8), 50mm(f1.8),24-105(f4L),70-200(f2.8L),
vintage lenses :
Promura MC 135mm f/2.8, Bell & Howell macro zoom lens 70-150mm 1:3.8 (using with adopter)

looking for your valuable suggestions.

ms khan

I used to like this lens more. Then I began to appreciate prime lenses. All of a sudden this zoom becomes mediocre. It's performance is average but it's versatile. I am debating whether to sell it to fund a sigma 35. But I'm afraid I'll regret selling a general zoom. Plus it's not worth as much as when I bought it. For those of you who own this zoom, do you still use it very much? I realize it's unfair to compare a zoom with a prime but I promise myself not to add a lens without selling one. What a dilemma...

For all you professional photographers out there, do you usually carry around a back up? (such as a point&shoot/mirrorless/iphone)?

I currently have a dilemma whether i should spend some cash on a decent back up or suck it up and use my iphone. Heres the funny part... I have attempted both of these routes and there's no clear answer (at least for me) because i usually end up whipping out the 5d3.

As for using an iphone, I quite enjoyed this while i was travelling in vegas earlier this year. I was at a somewhat restrictive convention show and they wouldn't let me shoot with my dslr unless i had a media pass. With my iphone being the only camera i had in my pocket, i used that with ease and grace along with some instagram filters to satisfy my needs. However, at certain instances, i did long for some manual controls and DOF....

In terms of point and shoot/mirrorless, I have the Nikon V1 with several lenses (10mm, 18.5mm), however, im kinda feeling this is a money trap and maybe i should swap it for a cheaper point and shoot alternative. I had originally purchased this with the intent of doing some discrete street photography, however, my style has changed to the point where it is not needed anymore. With technology constantly upgrading itself, i am considering selling this while its still worth something and get something decent (ie Sony RX100) before it depreciates to nothing. Yes, i know the sony will also depreciate, however, at its current price, it offers better performance and versatility in comparison to my Nikon at a comparable price.

I guess it has been hard for me to decided because my full frame 5d3 does everything so much better, however, i realized something like this restricts me from the few professional sporting events and concerts I'm planning on going to this year...

What your opinion on this?

For any current or former 1D3 users...

I just picked up a used 1D3 body. Note this is my first 1-series body.

Is it me or do the AF points in the viewfinder fade a bit unless you are looking ON DEAD CENTER through the viewfinder? Compared to other EOS cameras, it seems to need more 'directional' viewing. I have used 20D, 40D, 5D II, 5DIII.

Also, seems that its harder to see the entire contents of the viewfinder like the exposure meter on the right side while wearing my glasses than with the other EOS cameras I have used. If I take my glasses off and wear contact lenses, I can see it much better. First time I must say that I can't see the entire perimeter of a viewfinder.

Thanks

I just got the new 24-70 to replace my Mark I version of the lens. Here is my question, given that the new lens has a diameter of 5mm more, does that mean that more light enters the lens? I presume yes. So, following that presumption, shooting the same subject in the same lighting at the same aperture and ISO speed, does the 82mm lens need less time to properly expose the subject? If it does, it follows that the new lens is better in low light, correct?

Unfortunately, I sold the Mark I lens the day before the Mark II arrived in the mail so I was unable to test the theory.

I recently ordered a Yongnu OC-E3 ettl cord from the other side of the world because it's so much cheaper than Canon. After some time having it on a flash bracket the metal base plate on top of the adapter where the real flash goes started to wobble, and recently it came completely off - the metal screws with the hotshoe were torn out of the plastic plate.

This doesn't come as a complete surprise since having a heavy 600rt flash mounted in an angle and walking around with this puts quite a torque on the base plate of the ettl cord...

... My question is: Is the Canon original any better, or are there sturdier 3rd party oc-e3 ettl cords? The Yongnu otherwise is fine, but the metal screws into plastic is just cheap and cannot take any strain at all (at least my copy).

Edit: Added pictures with torn off base plate

Can someone advice me where to buy the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 MKII in California? Should be close to Van Nuys. I am not there to test the lens myself. So, it is an order by maildelivery and addressed to my friends. They won't be able to test it, they just take it abroad.
In that context it must be a reliable shop and with some sharp prices.

Thanks!

Hi everyone. I have a passion for photography that I want to eventually develop into a side business. For the time being I want to focus primarily on family portraits,kids, maternity and eventually weddings. I currently have a t3i but will go FF within a year or so. My question is how practical is it to have a kit with just prime lenses for that type of work. And what recommendations on specific lenses. My next purchase is a 85mm 1.8 and I'm not sure where else from there.

A little background. The reason for only wanting primes is nerve damage to my left arm that makes quick and accurate zooming and focusing difficult,especially on l lenses with narrow zoom barrels. Any suggestions would be appreciated

HI I am new to off camera Lighting techniques. I own a 580 EXII. I am planning to try my hand on off camera lighting. Initially thought of getting the cable as a start up. Then saw the Youngnou YN-622C wireless trigger. So thought of jumping straight to wireless and skip the wired part (not sure how good an idea that is. thought of saving some money in the long run). I have plans to get a 430 ExII later. My Question is, if I use YN-622C, can I have the 580 be an off camera master and wirelessly trigger the 430 ExII or do I need to get a third YN-622C for the 430 exII?