I have a Canon 6D, T1i, and s100. I am planning to take all 3 on an upcoming photo safari in Tanzania. To reduce weight, I'm thinking of just taking cards, although I will have my iPhone and maybe my iPad. (I don't have a laptop and am trying to avoid taking one even if I had one.) Is there an SD card that you would recommend that I could use in all 3 cameras? I know my new 6D will take different cards than the T1i for example, but I was thinking it might be easier to take just one type of card. I know this can be done, but is this a good approach and if so, what SD card would you recommend? If this is not a good approach, please suggest alternatives. I've read some discussion about cards on this forum, but not this exact point. That said, please forgive me if this is repetitive. I'm really looking for guidance here as buying cards with all the variations they have seem more confusing to me than buying a camera.

Hi, I am an avid hobbiest photographer. I enjoy shooting landscapes and portraits, but increasingly I am shooting birds, horses, and other fast moving subjects as well. I currently have a T2i, 15-85, 50 f/1.8, 70-200 f/4 IS, and 100-400. I am looking to upgrade bodies, but I need a little bit of advice. Obviously the 5D3 would satisfy all of these shooting requirements with only two downsides, the price and loss of "reach" that I have a with a crop. The other avenue I am thinking about going is two bodies. Sell the T2i, get a 7D as they are becoming cheaper everyday and get a 5D2 or 6D. Now you may add up the prices and say a 7D + 6D (or 5D2) is about the same price as a 5D3. I am looking for opinions on which way to go. Pros/Cons of having two bodies. For some reason I am just a bit apprehensive to get one camera for ~$2500 since I have not yet spent that much on any one piece of equipment. I might add that I currently do not get paid for any photos, but I may start picking up some paying equine photography gigs as I have quite a few friends who ride and want to set me up with some clients, but this would just be occasional "on the side" work. Thanks for you help in advance!

I would appreciate advice. I need new batteries for my 2 IDIVs.
Original LP E4s are difficult to find.

I cannot find any good reviews on the cheaper subsitutes. There are many makes the prices vary a great deal. "Jupio" is available in the Netherlands & is the most expensive but I dont know of any references that they are better.

I understand the new LP E4N can be charged on by IDIV charger but will only reach 90% capacity. I acan ccept that because a new charger is very expensive for me. But what worries me are the comments that charging the LP E4N on the LC E4 charger is unsafe. Does anyone have experience with this.

Comments on my quandry about buying a generic LP E4 or rather the LP E4N to charge on my LC E4 charger will be appreciated.

I am using a 60D and shot a video at 30fps, but only had the frame rate set to 1/30 instead of 1/60 like I normally do. Is there a compressor setting or anything I can do to help correct this footage and make it useable for a normal video project? Help!

im thinkig of buying a second flash.
a Yongnuo YN-560 II or YN-565.

i have a 430 EX II and i want/need a second flash.

has someone really put the yongnuo flashes to the test?
i mean on a real shoot that stresses the flash.

should i go fore a cheap one or better stick to canon?

ps: i shoot manual, not ETTL, most of the time.

I am having trouble deciding on the next upgrades for my gear. I need a camera body and I want to start using strobes. I shoot wedding photography mostly but I want to start incorporating some strobe shots into the mix. Portability for the strobe is a must. I am wanting to do one of the following combinations as far as my upgrade due to budget. Your opinions is greatly appreciated.

Option 1
Elinchrom Ranger Quadra Hybrid A Heads - http://www.adorama.com/EL104081.html
Canon 5D II
Est Cost - 3454

Option 2
The AlienBees B1600 Flash Unit +Vagabond Mini
Canon 5D III
Est Cost - 3670


I would really like to get the 5D III because of the double card slot mostly since I already own a lot of SD Cards (and I would like the back-up as well). Also since I shoot weddings a lot of the ceremony locations are dark so the extra ISO is great as well.

I also like the portability of the Elinchrom Ranger Quadra. And I hear that it is more consistent than the Alien Bees strobe.

So obviously I would like 5D II and Ranger but due to budget I can only pick one for now.

Which would you recommend?

I have just bought (still not arrived in my hand) a 1Dx & a 5D3 camera & the new 400 f2.8. My personal passion is photographing birds in flight, but I am a rank amateur. I have read, very carefully, the Canon AF setting guide book but am still uncertain on one big question - what is the best area selection mode to set up on the cameras to ensure that the focus grabs the subject (bird in flight) & thereafter continues to track it accurately. Do I set up a single point AF or do I use the auto selection of 61points. My feelings are that the single point AF will allow focus capture of the bird, especially when there is a lot of background clutter, more easily but thereafter keeping the single focus point on the bird is a real challenge, especially with the heavy 400 2.8. The auto selection of 61 points that, from my understanding of the handbook, allows the AF to shift to any of the other 60 points if the original focus point that captured & locked the focus moves off the bird, seems like the perfect answer. However, the auto selection is fine when focusing on a bird in clear blue sky, it should easily achieve focus lock against the uncluttered background. My question is how will it pick up & focus lock & track a fast flying bird against a cluttered background. Opinions from the experts out there would be really appreciated.

Hello all,

In the manual of the 500 f4L II it's written:

Replacement with the included monopod mount can be done at a Canon Service Center at cost.
Since the mount requires special fastening, as a safety precaution, do not replace the mount yourself.

What is so special about that mount? It's only four screws. What can happen if you do it yourself?

Hi everyone! I've read countless topics here on CanonRumors and since everyone is so nice and helpful here I finally made an account! This is my first topic, i'd greatly appreciate any input!

So I've had a Rebel for a couple years now and feel like i've used it to its maximum potential and am finally (after intensely saving up) making the jump to a full frame, the 6D. The only lens I have that is EF is a 14mm f2.8 so that would be the only lens to start out with but I have 3 lenses in mind but only want to pick 2 out of the 3.
The 24-105 f4L and 70-200 f4L or Sigma 50 f1.4 and 70-200 f4L.
So here are some things that are making me confused. I mainly shoot landscapes and portraits and the 24-105 comes as a kit lens with the 6D totalling to more or less $500 as opposed to it's $800 if I were to buy it separately. I was thinking the Sigma 50 would be a good everyday lens but the kit price is so tempting! Do you think it would be a good idea to get the kit lens and sell it for possible $700 in which I could then profit a little bit and buy the 50? Has anyone used both of the two? would you say one is better than the other in terms of focusing and image quality? Also, if I were to keep the 24-105 do you think the overlapping focal length with the 70-200 is redundant? Will it cover the same length too much to the point where I should definitely get the sigma 50 and 70-200?

How reliable is the new Canon 1DX camera ie repair frequency?

Hi
Never having used a flash gun since getting my 5dmk2, i think its time.
Thinking of using it for fill flash outdoors for flowers and closer subjects hopefully insects or maybe indoors.
I have studio lights with softboxes for studio so dont really need it for that.
Will I be happy enough with a 430EX II or will i see much advantage with the 600 EX RT
Dont particularly want to spend more if i dont have to.
the 600EX RT is about £190 more (as there is a canon rebate on the 600's at the moment.)

Ive read this so far which was quote interesting
http://digital-photography-school.com/choosing-the-best-canon-speedlite-flash-for-your-needs

Any advice appreciated

I want to make a couple of large landscape prints for my office.
Which type of print would you recommend between acrylic and metal?

Thanks!

Does anyone have any experience with the fabled Nikon 14-24 via a Novoflex adapter onto a Canon body? I know Lee and Fotodiox have a filter holder system for the lens, but I think there is a lack of high density ND filters for long exposure work...

I’m new to this forum and need a lil help with a lens purchase decision. This is gonna be wordy, so I apologize in advance.

OK – so I’m not a professional and I’m undecided on making a lens choice. Here is my current camera kit:

5D MK II (owned less than a month)
Rebel T3i

EF-S 17-55 f2.8 IS
EF 50mm 1.8 II
EF 85mm f1.8
EF 24-105 F4L

I also own a Leica M5 and a Canon ELAN 7 – but that’s a different story.

I sold off my 4x5 kit (90, 210, 350) to focus on digital. Film ain’t dead but film processing/printing has become more of a challenge at least for me when it comes to large format but I’ll probably still shoot 35mm film. I’ve wanted to shoot FF digital for a long time and with the recent release of the 5D MKIII and 6D, it seemed to me a good time to pick up the 5D MKII body. I will at some point in the very near future trade up to the 7D for its faster frame rate and AF system. From what I’ve learned about bird photography is that the crop sensor takes advantage of the lenses center sweet spot.

I tend to shoot landscape, tabletop, some portraits, night photography, some architectural and a tad street.
Since I live in what is considered the Pacific flyway, I’ve recently developed an interest in bird and wildlife photography. I’m also considering some macro but I think the EF 100 f2.8 IS could fit that need. So, long story short, my photographic interests are all over the map.

I’ve rented both the EF 70-300 f4-5.6, and EF 300 f4. Of these two, I preferred the 70-300 f4-5.6 but I don’t have to tell you that with a 300mm focal length, when it comes to birds you’re limited. The issue I have with the 70-300 is that it wasn’t designed to work with teleconverters. The EF 400 5.6 doesn’t appeal to me. Ditto with the 100-400 f4-5.6.

Money is a consideration. So now I’m looking at the 70-200 zoom family (f2.8 & f4), or the 200 f2.8L II. I could use both with a 1.4X III extender and a crop body. Maybe there are other options I should consider or perhaps I should reconsider the EF 400 f5.6?

Dear all,
suffering a boust of GAS I would apprechiate couple of thoughts on my bag.

I shot mainly kids fashion on a semi-professional level and like travel photgraphy (if I tarvel without family). Skilled amateur, taking pics for about three decades now. Weight is an issue on business trips, and very good low light performance is key.

What I have:
5Dc and 5D3
EF 50 1,4
EF 24-105 IS 4
EF 100 2
EF 135 2
EF 70-200 4 IS
EX 580

Thoughts on my mind:
RX-600 - worthwhile? I could use some additional flash at times for the fashion pics, but the ETTL I sucks
exchange the 5Dc for a modern APS-C body (e.g. 7D) for additional reach?
exchange the 100 2 and 24-105 for the 100 2,8 IS plus 24-70 2,8 II
40 2,8 as small "walk-around-less" (would I still use my 50 1,4?)

Too many options, I guess...

Now I have gone and bought the 1D X, I thought it would be wise to upgrade my CF cards and am now shopping around comparing prices.

According to my calculations, it seems the US is the cheapest place to buy them. The Lexar Pro 1000X for example costs US$ 133 / £ 135 for the 32 GB (US/UK respectively) US$ 289 / £ 280 for the 64GB.

That is quite a difference, and here in Asia CF cards are a lot more expensive than the UK price even.

In the past I have always purchased them in the UK, but am now looking a little further afield.

For those not in the US or Canada, do you buy yours online and get them shipped over? The price difference is quite big.

And is there anywhere cheaper than the US?

Edited: To make the question clearer, as it was too vague.

And I have to say... wow... what a beauty!

Here are some jpegs straight out of my 6D. No corrections or whatsoever:



and a 100% crop






and a 100% crop






and a 100% crop



What do you guys think? Any good?

I had a little 270 speedlite tucked in the area above a stove for an interior shot of a kitchen. Needed a kick light down on the stove surface. (The articulation of that little head/reflector is a added benefit.) There was some Gorilla tape holding it and the Strato Multi receiver in a corner. Wel, maybe a lot of tape... enough to cover the assemblage. Odin controller was on the top of the camera not far away. Sometimes the 270 would not go off. Sometimes it seemed like it lagged a part of a second behind the flash of the units that had Odin receivers. (I agree that this is hard to judge just by eye...) There are frames with no 270-included flash. Tape the culprit? There's no metal in the tape to act as a shield.

I bought one Strato to try out with the Odins because I usually set up this kind of work with plain old manual settings. I have Vivitars in addition to some Canon speedlites, and these Vivitars are always going to be manual. But I discovered that the Strato will not fire any of the Vivitars. I wrote Phottix to ask why but their first answer shows they are not yet sure what I am asking. I know Stratos are supposed to co-exist with Odins in a complex lighting setup but I wonder if I made a mistake? I need to trigger a Norman studio flash in 9 days for a shoot! (the pack needs a solder connection fixed so have not been able to test it yet.)

Thoughts?

jonathan7007

Hey guys, I am hoping to get a little help

On this new 5D Mark III, how in the heck do you adjust the ISO in Manual so that it will adjust the exposure bar? When I click the ISO button, mine is just locked in the middle. So I have to adjust ISO seperately, Depress the shutter half way, see metering is still dark, push ISO button, adjust it a little more, depress shutter again now see where the metering is now... As in when I change the ISO speed, its not changing the exposure metering bar.

I had no issue with this on Mark II, so I am not sure what I am doing wrong, or what setting needs changed. Any insight?

Just bought a second-hand (but one owner) 1DsMk3 and after arrival I tried is with a bunch of my lenses and pixel-peeped to see how it differed from my 5Dmk3. Liked the image at low ISO, which is exactly why I bought it. Oh, and for its great build quality and the long-life shutter.

I have had no other 1-series camera and the shutter on this body sounds sweet to my ears: more mechanical, more authoritative.

But yesterday on a real estate shoot with my 17mm TSE, tethered, I started getting these Error 30 messages on the screen. I believe it told me turn off and on again, too. The body never stopped working, and responded to the power cycle. Shooting tethered I was bringing up the images in Windows Explorer and right clicking to ask them open in ACR... just to check focus and the histogram. But I don't know how tethered operation might have caused -- or highlighted -- whatever is the root cause of the error.

Canon tells me this error is a loose bag of possible shutter issues. I was using an Odin trigger in the shoe but the VA-center tech person said that wasn't likely to be the cause. Ditto tethering, although he asked if I had been in and out of LiveView, which of course I had! I am so bummed. I know these things happen but I *thought* I had purchased this at a reasonable cost and from an enthusiast, not a pro, which meant lower actuation count. No signs of hard use on the body. I believe my cost just went up by $400 (a guess, I admit)

Important shoot on the 16th and despite my CPS fast turn inside the repair operation at Irvine I would have to spend about $100 to go with the fastest shipping service available, and here in rural Hawaii, often, "next day" is not next day either going or coming.

So, given that I MUST have a second body at this important shoot (and that it will be tethered photography of regular folks -- with people and groups stepping in one after the other, I am tempted to wait to send it, explore the body's reaction to all my TSE lenses, try tethered again, to see if there is any recurrence... and still, I guess send it in and pay for whatever repair is necessary at that point. Grrr.

jonathan7007

After reading and watching a LOT of reviews, I finally purchased the 24-70mm f/2.8 II. It's my 2nd red ring. My first one was the 17-40mm f/4. I'm not sure why, but neither the zoom nor the focus feels as smooth as the 17-40mm. I realize the 17-40mm doesn't have as much glass in it, but the 24-70mm feels and sounds like there's some abrasion. The zoom feels tighter, which I guess if from the extra glass. It still sounds odd, though. The focus feels looser than the buttery smooth 17-40mm. Did I get a bad copy? Should I exchange it for another?

So, as I begin my journey into film, I'm realizing instead of paying to scan or print every roll (120 film mostly, 6x7), that being able to view the negative/slides either at pick (and then give them to scan), or at home and then bring back to get scanned is probably the more cost effective way. That and I'm considering getting a scanner, but that probably won't happen as I expect I'll be paying $250+ on a quality home scanner. I've been eyeing the V600 which has some good reviews, and that's about $190 at B&H.

However, just looking around on B&H, I'm seeing that a lightbox & loupe will probably cost around $200 or more. So, what would ya'll recommend? Just go ahead and wait until I get paid this month and then go buy a quality scanner like the V600? Should I save for a couple of months and jump to the V700? I'm sure I'm serious about film, however the quantities I'll be doing will be varying.

As a side note, I would like to take it back home to scan some family negatives/photos. Not likely all of them, but at least some. If it (and the software included or other recommended software) can help with that, bonus awesomeness.

EDITS: Fixed V600 price

Sorry if I'm in the wrong section, but its the closet I can relate to this topic. Anyways, I recently just bought a Canon 7D (from the deals section of this site) and received the package today. The first thing I realized was that the box was in English/Japanese. Being that this camera must of came from Japan, I'd like to know are there any differences whatsoever? I'm not bashing on anything imported, especially Japan, just wanted to know am I losing something because of the deal I got? Even the smallest difference can be posted please, I dont mind paying an extra $200 for the American.

Currently I have 2 bodies, a 5D MkII and a 7D. My lenses are 16-35 2.8L II, 24-70 2.8L and a 70-200 2.8L IS. I also have a 1.4 and the 2XII Canon extenders. I'm looking to pick up a used 300mm 2.8 non IS. I'm thinking of selling the 7D while it's still worth a bit of money before the MkII is released and the price falls to help fund the purchase. The 7D stays in the bag and I use the 5D MkII virtually all the time. Should I keep the 7D? It is nice to have a second body but not if it just sits it the bag.

Hello all,

I'm a "serious" amateur with not much money.

I'm starting to branch out into some easy working gigs (family portraits, pet photos, baby photos), nothing too pro, mostly just a taste to see if it's something I want to dive into more seriously (I THINK I'd really love to do wedding photography, but that's a little beyond my skill at the moment).

I have a 650D/T4i, a VAST upgrade to the 1000D/XS I shot for years with. Since it basically has the same sensor as the 7D it takes what I consider to be very nice pictures.

I long ago upgraded from the kit 18-55mm to the 18-135mm. I found the difference dramatic. My T4i came with the kit 18-135mm STM lens, which is rated even better then the original 18-135mm IS, but frankly image quality wise I don't see a vast difference (it is shaper at wider apertures, but not by a huge amount).

That said, the 18-135mm STM is still a kit lens, and while it is an amazing single lens solution for travel, I do wonder if it's "good enough" for outdoors portait type shoots, especially if people starting paying me money.

So, with all that said, I've looked into things and ALOT of people recommend that a good "next step" is the EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6. It's not L glass obviously, but it is supposedly quite an upgrade from kit glass.

Would I notice much of a difference? I know there are other a couple other common options, but they are all quite a bit more expensive:

EF-S 15-85 f/3.5-5.6
EF-S 17-55 f/2.8

The 15-85mm is about $200 more then the 17-85.
The 17-55mm is WAY more, obvious since it's much faster, constant aperture. Alot of people say that lens is a L without the L designation.

According to DXOMARK there isn't much difference between my 18-135 and the 17-85 or 15-85. But alot of people say that DXOMARK isn't very close to real life. The 17-55 DOES score much better, but it's out of my price range, plus I don't like being limited to 55mm on the long end.

So, any advice? Is the 17-85 worth the upgrade? Should I stick with my 18-135 and save up for better glass?

Thanks for any advice!