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Learn me on the use of filters!

So, I pulled the trigger and got a used but good condition RB67 6x7cm MF film camera. Awesome! Shot this weekend with it, both B&W film (need to drop it off today) and the Fuji instant develop film. I got started thinking though, filters were a lot more useful with film, since a lot of what you can do digitally with RAW files (color levels, whitebalance, etc) you can't do with film. So, where's a good point to start learning about the different filters and how to use them with color and B&W film?

As a note, I decided to get the 3-volume Ansel Adams photo books. I'll probably mostly start with The Negative, but I will read through the other 2 as well.

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Canon Announces the Development of New High Sensitivity Sensor

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<strong>Press Release</strong>

TOKYO, March 4, 2013—Canon Inc. announced today that the company has successfully developed a high-sensitivity 35 mm full-frame CMOS sensor exclusively for video recording. Delivering high-sensitivity, low-noise imaging performance, the new Canon 35 mm CMOS sensor<sup>*1</sup> enables the capture of Full HD video even in exceptionally low-light environments.</p>
<p>The newly developed CMOS sensor features pixels measuring 19 microns square in size, which is more than 7.5-times the surface area of the pixels on the CMOS sensor incorporated in Canon’s top-of-the-line EOS-1D X and other digital SLR cameras. In addition, the sensor’s pixels and readout circuitry employ new technologies that reduce noise, which tends to increase as pixel size increases. Thanks to these technologies, the sensor facilitates the shooting of clearly visible video images even in dimly lit environments with as little as 0.03 lux of illumination, or approximately the brightness of a crescent moon—a level of brightness in which it is difficult for the naked eye to perceive objects. When recording video of astral bodies, while an electron-multiplying CCD,<sup>*2</sup> which realizes approximately the same level of perception as the naked eye, can capture magnitude-6 stars, Canon’s newly developed CMOS sensor is capable of recording faint stars with a magnitude of 8.5 and above.<sup>*3</sup></p>
<p>Using a prototype camera employing the newly developed sensor, Canon successfully captured a wide range of test video,<sup>*4</sup> such as footage recorded in a room illuminated only by the light from burning incense sticks (approximately 0.05–0.01 lux) and video of the Geminid meteor shower. The company is looking to such future applications for the new sensor as astronomical and natural observation, support for medical research, and use in surveillance and security equipment. Through the further development of innovative CMOS sensors, Canon aims to expand the world of new imaging expression.</p>
<p>Canon Marketing Japan Inc. will be exhibiting a prototype camera that incorporates the newly developed 35 mm full-frame CMOS sensor and sample footage captured with the camera at <a href="http://www.shopbiz.jp/en/ss/" target="_blank">SECURITY SHOW 2013</a>, which will be held from Tuesday, March 5, to Friday, March 8, at the Tokyo International Exhibition Center in Tokyo, Japan.</p>
<ul>
<li>An imaging element (aspect ratio: 16:9) that supports the largest image circle size possible when shooting with a Canon EF lens.</li>
<li>A CCD sensor with a readout mechanism that multiplies electrons after being converted from light. Applications include nighttime surveillance and the capture of astral bodies and nighttime nature scenes.</li>
<li>The brightness of a star decreases 2.5-times with each 1 magnitude increase.</li>
<li>Recording of test video footage was made possible through cooperation from ZERO Corporation.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Phottix Strato Multi turn out not to work with Vivitar 285HV

Bummer. Bought a Strato Multi II to test expanding a set of Odin receivers intended for my Canon flashes into my existing batch of Vivitar 285HV units. I had hoped this lower-cost rcvr would fire the Vivitars for those interiors that needed "just one or two more flashes". I am posting to see if anyone here ever tried the Strato successfully with these Vivitar 285's. The Odin rcvr *will* fire the Vivitar. Vivitars offer no TTl feedback. There's just one metal connector in the shoe, and eyeballing that spacing it *does* line up with the Strato's center connector.

The Strato rcvr will not fire the Vivitars with the test button, or a pc cord run from the Vivitar into the 3.5mm receptor at the back of the unit.

This may mean I have to buy a few more Canon flashes. I like the lower cost of the Canon 550EX used, but I already had the Vivitars and hoped to use them mixed with my Canons for a little while.

I had also planned to have the Odin controller tell the Strato to fire a Norman studio pack. That pack needs a quick repair -- in a day or so -- before I can test it, but now I am not to so sure it will work.

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your goto everyday lens and why?

I love to shoot wide, wait scratch that, Ultra Wide. It seems that my everyday walk around goto lens is the 17-40. it gives me the ultra wide I like when needed and it also covers the 24, 28, and 35mm focal lengths. Granted, it's only f4 but I have been using it on a 6d and have had no complaints. Maybe one day i'll upgrade to the 16-35.

What's your goto everyday lens?

Anthony
My 365 iPhone Project.
http://onedumbphoto.com

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How do I set button to use only center AF point?

Hello, I just upgraded from an Xsi to a 6D. Pretty excited, but I can't figure out how to focus as I did before.

I don't want to focus by half-pressing the shutter button. Instead, I want to use only the center AF focus point by pressing that button on the top-right of the body.

I have a feeling I have to modify the C.Fn II setting, but am not sure how.

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

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UV filters (any difference?)

So I bought a couple lens recently (17-40mm and 24-105) and want to get some UV filters for them.

Is there any real difference between various filters?

For instance, Hoya UV filters range from $30 to to $110. My gut reaction is that it is mostly marketing junk and the $30 one is fine. But would appreciate anyone with knowledge or thoughts to the contrary! Thanks.

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35mm lenses and people photography

35mm focal length is a quintessential "people" lens...its use straddles a wide range of people-photography genres...from out-right portraits, to street- and event photography, to traditional reportage. I will post a few from a recent trip ...

This is a focal length that helps tell a story so I wasn't keen on pixel peeping...
These are 35L shots but any 35mm is a 35mm, no? :)

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Bounce flash with YN-568 question

I just got in a YN-568 ETTL II flash. This is my first experience with an ETTL flash - used manual to this point.

I tried using it to bounce flash and it severely underexposes. My understanding of ETTL II is that exposure is set via a pre-flash and should account for bounce, or any other modifier, when setting power level.

Searching the net showed a number of people supporting my inderstanding of how it supposedly works, but also a number of people who express the same issue I have, even with 580EX II.

So not sure what to think at this point. Should ETTL II bounce flash properly expose or should I need to dial in +3 (or so, which makes the exposure close to right) on the flash first to make it work? If the latter, ETTL seems rather pointless to me except for direct flash, which seems to work, but has a pitiful asthetic.

Any thoughts?

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The last roll of Kodachrome – what would you shoot with the last 36 frames?

Got an email from Planet 5D with the below content ... thought it was interesting enough to share

Posted on 03. Mar, 2013 by planetmitch in Stills

I found this on youtube yesterday and wanted to share it… a very poignant story about Steve McCurry’s personal project to use the very last roll of Kodachrome off the production line.

I’d sure have a hard time deciding what to shoot with this monumentally significant last roll of Kodachrome – and from the film, it is obvious that Steve had trouble with it too.

Steve McCurry is very well known and is probably most famous for this cover shot from National Geographic:

As posted in http://blog.planet5d.com/2013/03/the-last-roll-of-kodachrome-what-would-you-shoot-with-the-last-36-frames/

National Geographic: The Last Roll of Kodachrome

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The Next Zeiss Lenses? [CR2]

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<p><strong>More high performance Zeiss primes coming

</strong>I’ve been told by a good source what Zeiss has planned for the coming year or so as far as new prime lenses.</p>
<p>There will be a 28 f/1.4 introduced and an update to the Planar 85 f/1.4 (probably the weakest lens in the lineup). Don’t expect both lenses to be announced at the same time, and there could be a big gap between them. These are going to be on par with the new Distagon 55mm f/1.4 that was announced at Photokina.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Capturing Stills from 4K Video with the EOS-1D C

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<strong>Abraham Joffe captures stills from 4K video with the EOS-1D C


</strong>A good article and video on the Canon Europe site about extracting still images from the 4K video produced by the Canon EOS-1D C.</p>
<p><strong>Says Joffe about the possibiliies:</strong>

<em>“This should excite photographers: their skills sets are about creating beautiful images that work, and I think motion photographs will take more photographic skill than video skill,” he reveals. “Video is about multiple shots that work together to tell a story; motion photos have sound and camera movement stripped away and you are coming down to one moment in one frame that happens to be moving. That is very exciting for me.”</em></p>
<p><strong><a href="http://cpn.canon-europe.com/content/education/technical/abraham_joffe_on_the_eos-1d_c.do" target="_blank">Read the full article</a> | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/855962-REG/Canon_EOS_1D_C_EOS_1D_C_4K_Cinema.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EOS-1D C at B&H Photo</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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How sharp should pics from 5D3 +24-105 be?

Sorry for posting this again, but I figured that this is the right place for the question rather than in "technical support".
I finally took the plunge and got a 5Dmk3 kit and suffice to say, I am LOVING it. The handling is amazing (on a side note, on my second day of ownership, I learned the hard way that there is a difference between a splash of water, a bit of dust and then the cursed sand of the desert wind alas, a grain of sand got under the focusing ring of the 24-105 which now makes a grinding sound that even gets picked up by an off-camera mic )Anyways, apart from this unfortunate occurrence, I need to make sure that I got an ok copy today, seeing as the 14 days of "no questions asked in case of a malfunction-return policy" ends tomorrow. I am no pixel peeper, and I am not the type to buy a box of lenses and only keep the best one. That said, given the substantial size of this investment (for me at least) I'd like to make sure that neither camera nor lens has any obvious faults.So, if anyone would lend me they eyes, it would be greatly appreciated.The "test" shots are with the proper test settings I think (neutral, no NR, tripod, tethered, no monkey business and straight out-of-camera)
27294037
---
http://500px.com/photo/27294037
http://500px.com/photo/27294035
http://500px.com/photo/27294033
http://500px.com/photo/27294031
different apertures at 105mm

http://500px.com/RuneAbro (different apertures at 24mm)

Files:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/legz9yp3c72x49s/r14nC5VsKa?m

(might take another 20min before they're all uploaded there :)


I apologize for the messy links, trying to tidy it up :)

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green color cast with hoya 82 mm UV & IR filter on 16-35

Hi,

I am rather disappointed with the HOYA 82 UV IR filter on the 16-35. There is a very clear green color cast in the corners.

The slim UV filter that I have as well does NOT have this problem.

At 205$, this hurts.

Settings, 16-35 F2.8 L @16 mm, 1DX, F2.8, iso 250, 1/6400.

Stopping down helps, but even at F9.0 it is still visible

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5D3 hiccup?

I've had my 5D3 since the summer, and until today I've had no issues. During playing around with my macro and flash, the top wheel stopped functioning. I could no longer change any settings, nor could I navigate through any menus. It began functioning after I pulled the battery grip out for a second time, and appears to be functioning normally. Anyone else experience a similar error? Or perhaps it's just one of those strange goofs that seems to happen to electronics occasionally. Either way I'll probably just take it to Canon for a checkup since it is close to my house, and I'd rather have it addressed while in warranty.

Cheers.

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On the 5DM3 what is the difference

Hi,

Not a rumor but a question about different settings on the 5D M3.

On selecting the AF area, there are two settings which seem to be identical

- Single Point Spot AF
- Single Point AF

Description in the manual does not help. Is the difference the first mode, link the Spot metering to the AF point and in the second case the spot metering is always at the center AF point (whether or not it is the active AF point).

Thanks

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Art Tool or Art Object?

.
A while back we briefly discussed a Wired article by Pete Brook:

Do We Love Cameras for Their Brains or Their Bodies?

http://www.wired.com/rawfile/2013/01/daniel-arsham-reach-ruin/

It was about an art exhibit in Philadelphia using camera sculptures. The exhibit seems to ask the question is a camera a tool to make art or a piece of art in itself. After some discussion with another person on this forum, I said I'd go see the exhibit and file a report. So, for what it's worth, here's my report:

http://deadreckoning1.wordpress.com/2013/03/01/reach-ruin-or-not/

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yes or no..6d for video...

hi,

i am reading a lot of reviews for the 6d everything is fine only the moire; So i am a little bit
confused, currently using the t3i i am planning to switch for a ff body, specially also
for video..

yes the 5d mark III is the best solution but also the most expensive, how is the 6d compared to the 5d mark II?

or is the moire like the t3i on the 6d? i can buy the 6d with a good lens for the price of the 5d mark III body, also
there are good bargains for the 5d mark II...

thx
drsmusic

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What is this camera?

I think this post is likely misplaced, but this subforum most describes what I'm asking.

I came across the following photo yesterday, and looking at it more I saw it's a Canon film SLR. I'm not as handy with the film bodies as I am the DSLRs, so I was wondering if you all could help me ID it. Just for curiosity.

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Super DIY Remote Speedlites

So, here's a crazy idea I had for getting speedlites that have remote controlled power on the cheap.

1) A used auto flash unit on ebay can be had for $10-20
2) Add a $3 standard volume potentiometer for full manual control
3) Control the potentiometers via either motorized pots or R/C airplane servos. I know that they make IR controlled pots for audio boards on speaker receivers for tv and stereo systems. I think an R/C servo could potentially drive a standard pot through the full range of motion. I see some remote and servo packs for around $25-$50 on ebay. One controller could potentially run 2-6 lights.
4) Trigger with remotes of your choice (In my case, Cactus V5 at ~$35 per transceiver)

So, in theory, this makes a studio of two lights cost under $100. You could even use shoe mount optical triggers in place of radio receivers for all your extra lights. You could possibly have 6 radio controlled lights for $200-$300.

So, I probably won't follow through on my theory, as radio controlling power is not a pressing need for me, but I wanted to present the theory to anyone who might be interested. It could sure make for an interesting, cheap home studio set up!

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Wide angle lens advice and AF confirmation

Hi all, I'm in a hunt for a wide angle prime. I've had 17-40mm for a while, but have never been satisfied. So I have been considering 3 primes at the end: Canon 24mm f/1.4 ii L, Zeiss 21 distagon f/2.8 and Canon TS-E 24mm f/3.5 L II.

My main uses:
- Environmental portrait
- Landscape/travel

Critical factors:
- Sharpness across frame
- Low distortion

I don't mind with manual focus, and most of my uses will have considerable DOF. Nonetheless, I have been struggling to decide, and am unable to rent since I am traveling extensively for business (at least until the time I will buy one of these lenses in Singapore). Therefore I'm hoping to get your input/experiences here to help me decide:

1) Which do you recommend for my use? (note: I've never used TS lens before, but definitely am interested to learn)
2) About manual focus, the AF confirmation in 5dmk3 for Zeiss or TS-E lenses; how accurate is it? Say, if I play with 1m DOF?
3) Would also be great if you can direct me to some samples of portraiture uses for Zeiss 21mm and TS-E 24mm.

Thanks a lot all. Really appreciate it.

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Made the Jump

Well after months of deliberation have finally decided to do it! :)

Have jumped from an APS-C camera to a Full Frame...

I have been using a Canon 350D (apparently Rebel XT/Kiss for those in the US)....for years and is perfectly still fine to use, but today finally put a bend in the bank plastic and jumped to the 5D MKIII...

I'm like a kid waiting for christmas ;D but also knowing the cost just laid out :o for what effectively is a hobby and not a money earner...

Roll on next weeks delivery!

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