Howdy forum,
I just picked up my first white (and first L, for that matter) lens from Best Buy yesterday (I got in on the double dip deal) and boy am I happy. Yep, you guessed it: the 70-200 2.8L IS II. The build alone is worlds above anything I've owned previously. I should be shooting a concert with it next weekend, so I can let you know how I'm liking it then.

Now to the questions...

I just pooled together a TON of change from around the house and it amounted to around $200. I know, right? One idea I had since I'm still shooting with a t3i was to get a battery grip with this money, to slightly improve the massive imbalance that occurs shooting with this lens. However, I'm also getting into the RT flash system (I only have 1 600ex-rt), and the radio station I'm working for owes me $100+ for some gigs I've done lately, so another idea I had was to deal with the weight and get another 600ex-rt. I'm working out a deal with a local clothing company to do some location shooting and having another flash would certainly be handy.

Another option would be to save up for a while and get a body that will balance better with the lens and be a solid upgrade to my t3i overall. I've been considering the 70d, though in reality, it probably makes the most sense for me to simply go full frame.

So, what do you guys recommend? Any other ideas? As I mention all the time, I'm still a high school student making some money on the side with photography (as well as doing everything I can to learn). Thanks, and happy shooting!

Here's my entry photograph. Looking forward to yours! Regards, Pedro.


Z96A6752bBWKLeincropDEF by Peter Hauri, on Flickr

On October 3rd, patent app. US20130258476A1 with priority in JP2012-072806 was issued
The US patent app entails 3 embodiments of a 35mm F2 lens with IS and a total lenght of 105mm (ref below).
To achieve adequate reduction of comatic aberration with an aperture of F2 during image stabilization, the IS lens is placed adjacent to the aperture diaphragm.
Emb Fl Fno ImH TotL BF
1 34,49 2,05 21,64 104,5 38,3
2 34,49 2,02 21,64 104,24 37,58
3 34,5 2,05 21,64 104,5 38,3
4 34,47 2,05 21,64 104,5 38,3
Embodiments 1,3, and 4 have good correction for spherical, astigmatic magnification chromatic aberrations, but exhibit a negatively sloping curve i.e. some degree of barrel distortion
Embodiment 2, is well corrected in terms of distortion but at the cost of lesser reduced levels of spherical, astigmatic magnification chromatic aberrations.

Further details can be found here http://www.freepatentsonline.com/20130258476.pdf

NYC Times Square local
6D +7-40L


Mellow Yellow 2 by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

Hi guys,

I like the lens gallery, but it is frustrating to look through it. Even if you sort the topics by title, the lenses are out of order because the titles are not standardized. It would be easier to find what you are looking for if the titles could be all rewritten in the same format so lenses would be in a predictable manufacturer and mm length order when sorted alphabetically. I don't know if that would really do it though, because of the way zoom lens lengths contain 2 values.

Way better still would be to just have more columns with sort-by headers. Currently you have subject, original poster, last activity. it would be very useful to add: Manufacturer. Zoom or prime. Focal length. That would really make it nice and easy to use if you could click on one of these at the top of the column and have the list sort itself on that criterion.

Also, is the site capable of displaying more posts at once ( or all of them at once)? That would keep you from having to flip through pages, and would instead make it a much more easily-scanned single list.

I really appreciate the site, and thanks for the work you guys do.
Thanks.

I haven't been monitoring the price for this lens since it was first released, but since I'm determined to buy one soon (brand new, planned for January), I just browsed on some of the local stores' websites here in Alberta and learned that most of them are listing the lens on sale for $1,999.99 Canadian. Okay, 2000 bucks.

Three of the local photography stores here are matching the price of its competitors (Vistek, Don's Photo, and Memory Express). I don't know if it's out of fear of customers telling them the other Vendor is selling 100 less than them and they lose out for price matching, or something is up (new stock coming?).

I also looked at the Adorama US site and it lists at the same price (US) with freebies, too.

A hole is burning in my pocket.

I could "save" $300 by buying in advance. It's hard to predict if the price goes back to 2,300 or be on "sale" for $2,199 by January.

Do you think the lens is still overpriced?

Looking forward to your opinion.

These three images are from this pat weekends races at Mazda Raceway Laguna Seca as well as the Santa Rosa Mile. All images were created with either the 1D Mark IV and a 5D Mark III using either the ef300 mm 2.8L IS and the ef70-200 2.8L IS II.



Mike Doran
D&W Images
www.dorancreatives.net

4th October 2013. Sunset at Mountnessing, Essex
6D +17-40L


Sunset - The Post Mill, Mountnessing, Essex by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

After using my new Octa from Lastolite with the "normal" straight stand I have got in a set with my much smaller Ezybox, I realized, I need something with a counterweight.
I use it with the speedlight bracket, the LL2701 for 1 or 2 speedlights.
My shortlist contains 2 versions of the Manfrotto 420: 420b or 420csu.
Will the 420b enough, or is this box too heavy and I need the 420csu?
The difference in cost doesnt matter so much as I like to buy and have fun, not fiddling around with just a bit too small/lightweight gear.
On the other way, when I have to carry this stand to another place, it would be nice to have the version with less weight.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Based on the research looks like the comet won't be the "light in the sky" everyone was hoping it was going to be

http://astronomia.udea.edu.co/cometspage/

Understand this may look like an off-site topic but there have been discussions about the comet on this site previously so just passing along the apparent bad news.

Hope they get it wrong and I'll be spending some cold nights out in the middle of nowhere.

Attempting to bring this topic back to the forum. If there are people here who do astrophotography would like reading what equipment is being used.

Hey guys, I'm looking to buy a new prime or two before I upgrade to a pro level body. I'm looking to get a 5d/ 6d or 70d/7d. I have a 28mm 1.8, 50mm 1.8, the 100mm l macro, and some lensbaby stuff. Anybody have some advice on primes that work well on both formats?

I've been thinking about the 135mm f2.

I like the 28 on my rebel

I like the 35mm and 50mm on ff.

But I'm lost at this point

I'm sure this has been asked previously, so please let me apologize for the redundancy right now.
My question is this: Can the subject lens be used with a Canon 1.4x TE III? Thank you for any advice regarding this optical lashup.
Regards,
James

Hi All,

I use Canon 5D Mark II & III and use LightRoom 4 to convert my files from RAW to JPEG for webbase viewing only thus far, but I really need your help on what size should I save my pictures from conversion should I need to print them for, say 16x24 (or larger), prints? Your help is much appreciated. Thanks!!

I have a 1XD and mostly shoot weddings. During a wedding I had a Lexar Professional 128GB 800x card and a SanDisk 64GB Extreme Pro 90mbs. I was shooting RAW to the Lexar and JPEG to the SanDisk. About 2000 pictures into the day I went to review a series of images I had just taken and could not because the camera was busy writing to the cards. I do not spray and pray so I was confused as to what was happening. The buffer never did clear and I took the risk of trying to shut the camera off. Next a spinning graphic along with the message that the camera was still trying to write 14 files to the cards came up on the LCD screen. I let it be for about 5 minutes and then felt that I had to move on with the day and wasn't really willing to stop using my 1DX. I took the battery out and put it back in and was able to review the images and sure enough I had lost the 14 pictures it was trying to write. It wasn't a huge deal because I had already retaken them with my 5D3. I was able to take pictures again but I noticed that the red buffer light stayed on continuously. I found out that the 64GB card was causing the issue so I swapped it out and continued without any issues. My question is that do you thing the issues was with the camera or card(s). I feel like I shouldn't have these issues with expensive cameras and nicer, newer cards. However I know that crap happens.

First Nikon and now Sony http://www.photographybay.com/2013/10/03/sony-nex-a7-a7r-full-frame-cameras-coming-this-month-with-24mp-and-36mp-sensors/?utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+PhotographyBay+%28Photography+Bay%29&utm_content=Yahoo%21+Mail
Why is Canon dragging their feet?

Hi all

I'm about to pull the trigger on getting a 5D3 and was thinking about a lens or 2 to go with it. I currently have a 60d and an 1100d with ef-s18-55, 50-250, Tamron 17-50 f2.8, Canon 70-200 f2.8 and Sigma 150-500 lenses. I currently shoot just about anything but portraits aren't a preference.

I'm going to sell the 1100 and the 2 ef-s lenses but keep the rest because it's handy to have a second body at some events and the 60d swivel screen does come in handy. Even though the 17-50 won't fit the 5D3, its still a very good lens.

The lenses I was thinking of are the 24-105 f4 and the Tamron 90 f2.8 Macro. A friend suggested the Tamron as a very good budget macro and the reviews I've read are positive but could I get away with just using the 24-105 as a macro?

Updated..................


Old and New Race by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Deep Shadow by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Focus on........... by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


The Convergence 2 by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Manhattan Bridge Silhouettes by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


The Collectors by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr



Times Square all blinged up.



Times on Reflection by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

Manhattan and Brooklyn Bridges (5 shot panorama)


Manhattan & Brooklyn Bridges. by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

Grand Central Station


Grand Central Station, NYC by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr


Grand Central Station New York by petach123 (Peter Tachauer), on Flickr

My experience with the Canon mail in rebate program. This was several years ago (2003 I think) and I purchased a 16-35 2.8L, 70-200 2.8L IS, and 50 1.4 lenses. The rebates at the time were $50, $50, and $25 respectively. I very carefully filled out all paperwork as if two IRS agents were peering over my shoulder. I cut out the proof of purchase bar code rectangles from my 3 lens boxes as if I was performing a bris on live TV. I carefully taped each of those rectangles compulsively level and at the ideal reference point of each itemized rebate listing on the form I was submitting. This would avoid the separation of proof from the form as well as the dreaded upside down dilemma which may never be flipped to show my eligibility for my claim to the fabled cash I so hoped would someday be mine. I triple checked my materials and also had a trusted friend check it as well. I made a copy of all of the materials and took a moment to pray that I would not need that copy and pinned it to the wall next to my computer. Countless trips to the mailbox over the next 2 months were made in vain. I called Canon and they referred me to the "check on your rebate" info on the form. They had no information from me on file. It was time to send in my copy of all materials with an added note to let them know why I was submitting copies of everything. Several weeks later I received a small piece of mail that was my rebate! I opened it to find that they had mistakenly interpreted the terms of the rebate to be that only one rebate per household and you guessed it. They sent me the $25 rebate for the 50 1.4. I called Canon and told them everything. They had a rep contact me and he had me email everything I had sent in as well as photos from the 3 lens boxes with the missing cardboard. Ten days later, I received the other rebates. Although my experience may not be typical, it has made me leery of getting involved in another rebate fiasco. My understanding is that Canon contracts a separate company to handle the mail in rebates. The same person that is making the call on how to process your request is processing a baby stroller rebate before yours and a vita-mix rebate after yours. They all have different terms and mistakes are going to happen. If you are wiling to fight for it, you will persevere. How bad do you want that rebate?

Hey guys, haven't been on here in a while, I need a recommendation on where to go next.

Body: rebel xs: upgrading to newer aps-c camera

Lenses:

Zooms: 18-55, 75-300

Primes: 28 1.8, 50mm 1.8, 100mm 2.8l is, lensbaby composer (double-glass optic, sweet 35mm, edge 80)

So I'm wondering where to go next, I can't seem to find a gap in my set up. I really liking primes, as I'm not needing pro zoom set ups.

I'm not wanting to spend a ton of money. Is there anything worth waiting for, anything that I should get now.

I've been looking at the 135mm f2.

I'm also wondering about the new sigma zooms and primes. Maybe sell some stuff, look at the new 18-35 1.8.

I'm a very big photo enthusiast, and I make some money, but all I care about is making beautiful images, and getting better as a photographer.

I also might be looking to move over to a full-frame prime setup, but right now all options are on the table.

So there I was, walking along with my 6D & 16-35mm II and boom, my knee gave way on some steps, I fell to my knees and the front of the lens hit the ground, sound of glass smashing as I commando rolled over... I've grazed both my knees, my left arm and dented my pride... Plus did the attached damage to my 16-35mm II - can't get the filter off at the moment, going to take it into the local independent shop when I get home from holiday, filter is a dead loss, lens looks ok bar the marks on the outer edge and until I get the filter ring detached, I've no idea of the damage to the front filter thread. Lens appears to work, two scuffs on my 6D are annoying too :-/

So folks - always fit a filter !!!

Hi guys,

I am a newbie in macro photography and wish to know more about lens reversal, i wasnt much satisfied with extension tube macro technique.

Just wondering what magnification can i achieve using a lens reversal adapter on canon 17-40mm lens ? is it life size (1:1) or more ?

how close i need to shot ? focus range between object and lens ?

will it be highly magnified at wide 17mm or 40mm ?

i have a 70-200mm IS lens with me, since both lenses got 77mm thread size, i could swap th lens with same reversal adaptor, will 70-200mm IS give more magnification than 17-40mm ?


it will be highly appreciated, if someone who experimented lens reversal can attach th photos ?

cheers

I have been looking at different 85mm primes to use for portrait photography and some event work. I have a 6D and my full kit is listed below.

I'm considering the Canon 85 1.2 II, Canon 85mm 1.8 and Sigma 85mm 1.4 EX DG HSM. I ruled out the Zeiss and Samyang 85's due to lack of AF. Obviously, there is a huge price difference here. I can afford the Canon 1.8 or Sigma now, but would have to save up a while for the Canon 1.2 II.

The Sigma looks to be optically as good as the Canon 85 1.2 II, at less than half the price. But, the AF accuracy issues reported by TDP are concerning. With a shallow DOF lens like this, poor AF accuracy means a poor keeper rate. I have the 70-200 2.8 II and 135L, so already have some top tier portrait lenses, but I really love shallow DOF photography and 85mm is often a better focal length than 135mm indoors when space is limited.

Any suggestions and hands on experience from CR members?

First, thanks to everyone for helping me along my quest from old Leica/Film 283 flash to 5Dii/7D ETTL flash.

I ended up getting a pair of YN-568EXii flashes. Had problems with both battery doors, fixed those. There are threads on both of that.

Here's my question.

I know the differences between ETTL-II evaluative vs averaging metering, with evaluative comparing the preflash vs ambient on some of the central metering areas (not tied to focusing point) along with distance feedback, if available. Averaging... just considering the preflash over the central metering areas. That I've got down.

What I'm having a hard time with, is two things:

a. Why off camera flash, using the YN622's are seemingly the same as averaging even though the camera is set to evaluative. Its behaving like averaging for some reason. For instance - same scene, on camera, evaluative is 2/3 stops underexposed as compared to averaging, however off camera flash is the same, regardless of averaging vs evaluative.
b. Why zooming seems to show that evaluative, only when on camera, is underexposed at certain focal lengths (24-105 and 16-35ii) but is good to go at all focal lengths when used remotely with the YN622 - again, it seems that no matter what it says, you're getting averaging not evaluative when the YN622 is ues.

Any thoughts?

I am hoping to get some constructive feedback on this image. Positive and negative feedback are welcome. I have been shooting landscapes seriously for the past 1-2 years. My goal for 2013 was to shoot all of my landscapes in raw and learn Lightroom.

This picture was taken yesterday on a hike in Montana. The light was blah until some rays of the sun broke thru a small opening in the clouds for a few seconds and highlighted the rocks on the shore. Luckily I had my camera on the tripod and was able to swing it around a grab this shot before the light moved on. I hope the picture captures a little part of the actual beauty compared to seeing it in person. The picture was shot in raw with a 5DMkIII and 24mm TS-E. No tilt or shift and editing consisted of minor adjustments in Lightroom and small amount of cropping.