I just bought a Rokinon Fisheye for $300 from Amazon. It's about 30 bucks cheaper than it normally sells for, and while I'd like to get it cheaper than I did, I've been wanting a fisheye to play with for a while.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008X1C4IY/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

But I'm composing shots in my mind (before I have the lens in hand) and I guess my question is, do yall bother following the rule of thirds when you are using a fisheye? Do yall shoot your subject in the center of the frame so there is minimal distortion, and then recompose in post and place the subject along the third?

I'm excited to have a new toy, but my concern is that I don't like wide angle photography as I have presently experienced it (18-55mm kit lens and @ 24mm with my 24-105) all on a crop sensor 60D. So I realize that doesn't really qualify as wide angle since it is 24-35ish respectively.

But again... kinda excited to have a new toy to try and figure out. I'm ok with the manual aperture and I'm ok with it being soft at f/3.5 since I plan on shooting at f/5.6 to f/8. And I'm ok with it being all manual focus, though it really shouldn't matter much considering 8mm naturally has a large depth of field.

I want to move from aps-c sensor to fullframe. However, I don't have the cash to spend a whole lot of money on camera body as my priority is buying lens. I have a canon 60D and thinking about selling it and getting a 1Ds mark ii and/or 1D mark iii. I know their limitations in terms of ISO performance but I will primarily be using the camera for portraits with and without off camera flashes. Feedbacks are much appreciated.

I've been wanting a HSS with strobes and found a cheap solution. Get a Electronic shutter.

How fast will the G15 sync and can I use my El-cheapo cowboy triggers (It only uses the center-point on the hotshoe) to trigger my strobes? Has anyone used their G series camera like this?

Edit: Found it. 1/2000th but still, any issues with running strobes? Triggering? Pit-falls?

I saw a Craigs List ad for a EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III lens for under $100.

If I recall correctly, this lens was recently referred to as the worst lens in Canon's lineup...is that true?

I'm personally not too crazy about a 14-24mm f/2.8 lens. I would much much rather Canon release a further updated 16-35mm f/2.8 III, specifically based on this insane lens patent:

16-35mm f/2.8 IS Pro Lens.

http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2013-01-06

f/2.8 3 ED elements 5 aspherical ones, and sharpness that rivals the 14-24mm wide open, AND image stabilization!

Internal focusing, low vignette.

I really would much rather have greater flexibility and greater focal range than an ultra wide angle that only does ultra wide, and worse than this proposed lens at that.

Anyone else feel the same way?

I am looking at getting a new camera. I can't decide on the 6d or the 5dM3. I have the 40d with Sigma 10-20 F4-5.6 and the Sigma 50mm F2.8. I also have tamron 28-300. I have the Canon G15 for a everyday camera. I mainly shoot pictures not much video. I have three kids oldest is 10 and youngest is 4. They all play sports and I want something that will last. I do travel a lot and take pictures of landscape and architectural structures. I also am looking at getting the camera with the kit lens 24-105 and would like to get another lens either the 70-200mm f/2.8l IS II or the 100-400 f/4.5-5.6l IS. I thought about the 17-40 also but think my sigma 10-20 and the kit lens would be fine. I would like to keep the filter size the same at 77 so I can use all filers for all lenses.

Friends - I am about to realize my long cherished dream to be challenged by the legendary 85 f1.2 ii prime. Its coming my way in the next 2 days and have already ordered UV filet to go with it. My only concern is that - does this lens suck lots of dust in due to its moving / extending front element during focusing? Considering that this is a beauty of a lens I don't want this potential issue to weigh against this purchase but want some advice on how best to avoid it. I intend to not hold back this lens for indoor use only but also want to use it for street photography occasionally along with my 35L and 135L.

Would greatly appreciate any suggestion from the 85L f1.2 owners.

Hello folks, I'm curious what do you think about my new Sigma 85 1.4.

Overall I'm impressed by the corner to corner sharpness of this lens even wide open, but I suspect some minor decenteredness here. Contrast shifting (or coma as you will) seems to be a non issue in the upper left corner, but i'ts a rather big one in the lover right corner. The other two corners seem to be similar. I have 8 more lenses in my inventory and I haven't noticed this with my other lenses. I'd be glad if you could comment on this, especially the ones who own this piece of glass. They were taken with a 5D2, the second one is contrast enhanced, otherwise they are unmodified.

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/19423458/s85_1401.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/19423458/s85_1402.jpg
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/19423458/s85_1403.jpg

I just sold my 60d for my first full frame 6D
Im more of a street photographer but learning about portraits

Help me
Canon 70-200mm f4 or Sigma 70-200mm f2.8 the cank f2.8 to much bread
And
Sigma 35mm 1.4 vs Canon 35mm f2

Other suggestions of what I need

I have a 50mm
40mm
I sold my crop senor only lenes

jrista said:

Don Haines said:

I have been trying (and failing) to get some decent pictures of chikadee's in flight. Do you have any idea how freaking fast those tiny wings flap..... and they don't fly level..... it's flap like crazy and climb, then tuck the wings in and go ballistic.... then flap.. then ballistic. It has to be the hardest thing I have ever tried photographicly.... taking pictures of the ISS was childs play in comparison.

Click to expand...

Hah! Indeed! Getting a good shot if a perching chickadee is a chore...those little twits never stop moving, even for an instant. Even my best shots of chickadees have some blur somewhere on the bird (even in long sequences if 16 or more with my 7D). You need very high shutter speeds to capture them in flight, and a proper flight setup is pretty much essential.

Click to expand...

I have been shooting with a 60D, shutter speed around a thousandth of a second, 400 f5.6 lens, burst mode (5.9 frames per second) or single shot, and have tried various autofocus modes. I have yet to get an in focus picture of one in flight.... no problems when they stop at the feeder, but none in flight. They really move fast, they don't fly level, and I have problems just tracking them with the camera, let alone get a decent picture. Any advice from those with more experience?

As posted at:
http://www.imaging-resource.com/news/2013/02/05/lone-protester-takes-on-the-camera-companies-at-ces

Lone protester takes on the camera companies at CES
by Dan Havlik

posted Tuesday, February 5, 2013 at 1:07 PM EST

We must've missed this during the hubbub of CES but camera repairman Kelly Chong was out pounding the pavement in front of the Las Vegas Convention Center during the show last month to protest what he says is unfair treatment by imaging manufacturers against small camera shops.

Chong claims manufacturers, including Nikon, Canon, and Sony, are not providing local camera shops with the necessary repair parts to fix customers' cameras. Instead, customers are forced to send their cameras directly to manufacturers, which is time-consuming, potentially expensive, and takes work away from local shops.

According to this video from Slashdot, Chong says he had been an exhibitor at CES/PMA since 1985 but no longer participates. The store he's affiliated with is Pro Camera Repair, Inc., in San Diego, California.

We've heard Chong's complaint before from other camera repair shops and, in fact, it was the subject of an article about a year ago on ifixit.org entitled "How Nikon is Killing Camera Repair." (Per Kelly's beef, it's not just Nikon by any means; there's been a general move in recent years to pull back support from independent shops.)

While we strongly encourage camera manufacturers to make repair parts available to independent repair organizations, we do think Kelly's "economic terrorists" epithet is waaay over the top.

Hi guys,

Been lurking for a few weeks now, gaining insights but need to ask for advice, as in 2 weeks i'll be taking the punt on a new 5D3 and I'm budgeting for around 2 lenses to go with it.

My uses: Predominantly hobby, but I will need it a lot of the time to shoot bottle image photography at work (which I have a light tent for).

I really, really like the look of the 50mm 1.2L. I love the creamy bokeh and amazing subject isolation. To complement this prime, I was looking at the 24-105 f4L due to it's good image quality, wide focal range and IS (I want to eventually shoot some vacation videos).

So, is this the zoom you would go for? I had looked at the 24-70 f.28 II but honestly I think with the 50 in my kit, id be at risk of selling myself short with just these 2 lenses to begin.

I understand that due to me upgrading from a Sony a350, and taking the most rapid crash photography course you'll find (I've gone from an ignorant to almost completely grasping the theory behind taking photos in about 4 weeks).

Advice welcomed.

Cheers

Stef

To all,

I've been having a difficult time getting sharp images with the Canon EF 600mm f/4.0L IS II USM and the Canon 1.4x EF Extender II. Basically, I shoot from my Toyota Tacoma with the lens/camera combination resting on a BLUBB (bean bag). I turn the vehicle off while taking images. I've tried where the focusing ring is on the bean bag and not on the bean bag. Will the movement of the focus ring during AF impact the overall image quality? That is, is the focus ring turned off during AF? I've tried placing my hand over the tripod foot, over the hood and under the hood for added stability. While looking through the view finder I find the had over the hood appears to work best. I see very little if any movement during this phase. I took around 600 images of the eagle, and saved only 17 marginally sharp images. This is a terrible hit to miss ratio. I have attached several images to show the common out of focus images. What's really interesting is the strange catch light pattern in the eagle.

I've tried every AF combination and AF pattern available on the Canon 1Dx to no avail.

It is possible that the problem lies with me (i.e. poor technique); however, I've read several articles relating to proper super-telephoto techniques and try following them as best I can. If anybody lives near Pendleton, Oregon and is an expert at proper super-telephoto techniques, I would enjoy your company for an afternoon along the Foothills of the Blue Mountains.

Thanks,

Wade

Is the G1X replacement due in the next couple of months?

I just paired my Canon T1i with the new Sigma 35 1.4. I use my flawless 100 2.0 and 200 2.8 for indoor and outdoor sports with massive success.
The 35mm Sigma has similar color and contrast of my 30 1.4, but is sharper so I think I made a good move. So far I have some stunners and use it/plan on using it for everything other than sports - family, travel, landscape, flowers, etc.
Especially in light of our pending big trip to Alaska would an UWA (which I have no experience with) be an important addition? I imagine that might be nice for sweeping landscapes and buildings up close both inside and out (in some cases), but do some do well with nothing but a 35mm (50+ equivalent on a crop)?
Thanks.

Ladies, Gentlemen

I need some help with a decision. I'm an Amateur using Canon cameras since the Age of the EOS 600 RT und currently use the 60D. Depending on the trips I do I usually carry 2 to 4 lenses with me. My minimum configuration is usually the Sigma 17-50 1:2.8 OS HSM and the Sigma 50-150 1:2.8 HSM. Depending if more wide or more reach is required I add the Tokina 11-16 1:2.8 or on the other extreme the Sigma 120-300 1:2.8 HSM. My Kids have reached the age where I can not only use their free luggage when entering the plane but also make them carry a lens around so I this time I’m flexible for a one month Thailand/China trip.

My issue is that all my Sigma lenses seem to be way too weak for the stress I put them through. With the exemption of the Sigma 50-150 1:2.8 HSM (Which is from handling and Feeling the nicest piece of crop lense I ever owned) 5 of my 7 Sigma lenses had gone into issues with the zooming mechanism. Cost just a few bucks on the 17-50 but was a pain with the 120-300. Of course A 17-50 which locks in 17mm because it doesn’t like the rough ride in a Chinese Coach while being in a proper lens bag does not increase my trust in Sigma for the future.

I have ordered but not received yet a used 16-35 1:2.8L and a 24-70 1:2,8L both the old Version with the 72mm filter. Taking These two with me on the trip means to swap the compact but lousy build 17-50 and it's IS against heavy metal and a little bit more reach but occupying 2 Slots in my camera bag.

From my live in the analog age I have left the 135 1:2.0L and the 200 1:2.8L

I need to have some reach with me on my trip. So my third lens could either be one of the two primes above or I could go in Beijing into Wukesong Camera city and shop at the myriad of used equipment sellers for the usual suspects like the 70-200 IS either in the 1:2.8 or 1:4.0 Version.

I have no experience what it means to carry the 16-35, the 28-70 and one of the 70-200 a few days through Chinas summer. Shall I go for one of my primes or buy a zoom? (I usually have some Budget for new (old) gear when I go on a trip so the fact if I spent money or not is not the most important)

Every advice is welcome of course especially from those who think outside the box.
If you think the complete lot of the gear is wrongly chosen then please suggest something different.

I am wondering why Canon put this sensor into 6d - the 5d3 seems to have the 22mp count because it's a multiple of 1080p and produces less moiré when downsizing to video resolution.

Is there any reason for the the way the 6d sensor is *except* marketing, i.e. keeping the tech spec even below the 5d2's 21mp? Maybe Canon gains a significant production advantage like less sensor waste for 6d and such is able to lower the price? Or is there any video- or stills-shooting related reason except that a little larger pixels produce a little less noise?

Hi, I am a former canon 5dII with a 24-70 user. About 2 plus years ago I sold all my canon gear and bought into micro 4/3's I recently decided I wanted to move back to using dslr and will sell off my m4/3's gear. With recent price drops, I picked up a 60d for 699.00.

Here's where I need your help. I am so undecided on lens selection with the crop factor. I love shooting wide to sometimes ultra wide. I picked up for the time being the 40 2.8 just to play around with because it was so cheap. Not a bad lens for 150.00, only problem is I find it a little long for my liking.

Here's what I was thinking and here's where I really need you help. I was thinking on getting the 10-22 for UWA to wide and also getting the 17-40 for my day to day walking around. Do these two lenses overlap to much, am I better off getting the 10-22 with either the 24 usm is or the 28 1.8. I feel the primes are not that wide on the crop body. What are your thoughts and your recommendations.

I also shoot macros and will get the 60macro and for the long end for when I need it will get either the 70-200 f4 usm is or the 70-300 usm is.

Thanks for your help,
Anthony

Hi,

I'm looking to upgrade my camera gear in the next month or so and want to know your thoughts on my upgrade plan.

I started years ago with a film Rebel with a 28-80 EF kit lens and a 70-300 EF (no image stabilization on either one) and upgraded to a Digital Rebel XT body in 2005.

This camera has served me well, and I have abused it well. I've had it to the beach many times (blowing sand/salt water splashes), waterfall shots (water splashing again), hiking in the rain/snow, no weather protection during these trips. Fell in a river once with it, completely drenched it. the coating has mostly warn off the hand grip due to using sunscreen on my hands for most of my hikes. And it's taken it all in stride, but I always felt that I couldn't get wide enough with my shots.

I do a lot of hiking and really felt I wasn't able to capture the landscapes/vista the way I wanted to. We had our first child in 2006 and our second in 2009 so there was no money for any kind of lens purchase for awhile. The 28-80 EF lens finally died last fall (grinding noise while focusing) and I picked up a 18-55 EF-S lens (got it for $90 on a local classifieds site).

So now the crop factor problem is lessened, but still not enough, I want wider and I've come to want extra features that my XT can't do, like liveview, video, more and better focus points, some weather sealing, rugged etc...

I've been reading and searching through the forums for a few months now and avidly reading the rumors on any new bodies that are supposedly coming (7DMII) and have already come (6D).

As many have said before: I would love a 5d mark III, but that's completely out of my budget. The 6D is also nice, I would use the GPS feature for my hiking trips and the Full Frame is something I really want. But, I also have 2 kids (age 7 and 3) and I want something that will be as useful with the landscape shots as it will with kids running and playing. Also I would probably have to wait till the end of the year to save enough to buy a 6D/lens kit. And I want something before my spring/summer hiking trips start. This is also a problem with waiting for a 7DMII that is not here yet, also the fact the price is probably going to be more then my budget will allow.

So, I've settled for now on buying a used Canon 7D ($850) and a used Canon 10-22 EF-S ($600) to go with my 18-55 EF-S and 70-300 EF. With Tax that will max out my current camera savings (and I may have to throw a bit on top to make it actually fit the budget).

I'm hoping this will put me on a good path to enhance my photos and also give me the opportunity to improve my photography skills over he next few years, until I can afford a used 5D Mark III and some lenses at some point.

So what do you think? Will it fit my needs, will it be a good upgrade for the cost? or should I hold off and see what happens to the price of the 7D, if a 7DMII is announced in the next couple of months?

Thanks, here's a small sample of some of the photos I take if that helps.

Does anyone know if the battery from the 1D IV will work on the 1D X?

About a year ago I was at a professional sporting event and noticed that the Pro shooters were using PWII to fire the stadium strobes. Having a chance to revisit the stadium this weekend I thought that I would throw a PWII into my pocket to see if I could find the channel the Pros were using and fire the strobes from my camera roughly 15 rows up. Low and behold they were using a default channel and while being considerate I did fire off a few shots. From scanning around the stadium I could only find two shooters with PWII - all others were shooting flash free.

So my question is - legally could you get into trouble triggering these units? I know that ethicly no one should be using them with out permission.

Anyone here a stadium pro and have any experience with unauthorized use of strobes?

I asked Canon Germany at facebook if some new products will come out at the coming events. They said they´ll update the website. They updatet quickly but for CeBit there is no more information about what is going to be showed. Do you think a new camera is announced?

I plugged one in to my new 600EX-RT flash but can't seem to trigger it. Is there a certain mode I have to be work? It works fine on my old 580EXII.

Hello! if anybody help me for the issue, I would very appreciate...!

I bought Canon 6D with TamronSP24-70mm f2.8. I use ScanDisk extreme pro, UHS-I, 32GB, 95mb/sec.

I have a problem for shooting video. The camera stops recording videos all most any condition.
I've written down some details>>

Set All-i 25P (buttery low)

1. Could shoot more than 1 min
2. After 51 sec: Start making little sound while shooting and Movie recording stopped automatically
3. After 21 sec: Movie recording stopped automatically
4. After 44 sec: Movie recording stopped automatically
5. Could shoot more than 1 min
6. After 41sec: Movie recording stopped automatically and Err message: Err card cannot be accessed.

Re-insert the card

7. 2 min 22sec : Movie recording stopped automatically, Err message: Err card cannot be accessed.
8. After 12 sec: Movie recording stopped automatically

Format card & Charged buttery 100%

1. 00:23 Movie recording stopped automatically
2. 00:06 Movie recording stopped automatically

Change to All-i 24P
00:28 sec Movie recording stopped automatically

Change to All-i 1280 25p
00:23 Movie recording stopped automatically

Changed to 1980 IPB 25p

Record more than 2 mins but it buffers in the middle, with the grey scale appears on the right top corner of LCD screen.
Also the buttery doesn't hold so good. I cannot use same buttery more than 4 hours of photo shooting. Is it normal?

If someone has similar experience or knows solution, could you please advise me?

Thank you!

Tosh