Just wondered if anyone out there had the 16-35 which I use and bought the 14mm and loved/hated the prime? Im doing a lot of landscapes just now, love the zoom but im always shooting 16mm and wondered if you noticed any difference with the extra 2mm and any sharpness differences. I love my 16-35 but its a zoom, an excellent zoom, but as im always wide open that extra 2mm is tempting.

Hello everyone,

I just ordered a Sigma 35/1.4 and USB dock.

Has anyone developed a workflow for using Reikan FoCal with the Sigma dock? It seems like they'd be a fit made in heaven for each other.

This obviously isn't as important for the prime 35mm as it would be for one of the Sigma zooms, but a workflow would be useful nonetheless.

If no one has tried this before I'll try and figure it out myself!

Today I was walking the Aare Gorge here in Switzerland. What did you do? Regards, Peter.


Z96A6466bTLKleinCropMasterALT by Peter Hauri, on Flickr

50mm 1.4 with close up filters vs dedicated macro lens for wedding close up of ring, flowers, shoes etc...

Im tryna find a prime lens for my 7D to walk the streets with. Im currently using my 5DMKIII with the 50mm 1.4 and i love it. Which lens out of the 2 would match the quality and look of that FF combo??

Any thought or suggestions would be great.. Thanks

Hi,

I'm a long time reader, first time poster - looking forward to being part of the Forum. I enjoy reading the various posts relevant to my interests, and have had fun trying out techniques etc that I have learnt from the knowledgeable members on here, so thanks!

Anyway, I am UK based, just a photography enthusiast interested in shooting landscapes, portraits, some sport (not particularly fast moving), wildlife etc - so, generally pretty varied.

I've recently upgraded from a 550D to a 6D - love the improvement in image quality. My current lens list is a 70 - 200 F4L IS, 24 - 105 F4L IS and a 50 1.8.

I'm fortunate to have £1500 - £2000 available for an upgrade, but wanted advice on what I should go for, and what will give me the best noticeable improvement in my shots. In general, I like to think my shots are fairly well exposed and sharp (with the exception of some 'action' shots due to 6D auto focus speed), so I am trying to improve my overall photo composition to make them more interesting to the viewers.

The options I have thought about (feel free to add anything I haven't thought of...)

- Sell the 6D, and invest in a 5D III;
- Sell 24 - 105, and buy the 24 - 70 F2.8L II;
- Upgrade 70 - 200 to the F2.8 II version;

Comments?

Sorry for the opening essay, and thanks for your input!

Im in the market for a 35mm for my 5DMK3.. Out of the option which is best wide open for nice bokeh??

I have been on the lookout for a great deal on a used Canon 1D Mark IV with low actuations. My idea of low is less than 100K out of the 300k estimated life. I am seeing ads and auctions for bodies with less than 10K and some below 2500!!!! Is it believeable that someone would spend upwards of $6000 and shoot only 2000 images? I can squeeze that many off in one game. I suppose they may have been videographers but would video use entail the same wear and tear as tens of thousands of shutter actuations?

Now that the 1Dx is on the refurb list for mid $5000, I may abandon my search for a $3000 1D4 and get a 1 year warranty.

So many topics on the forum deals with lens sharpness that when I come up with the following page
http://kenrockwell.com/tech/lens-sharpness.htm
I felt obliged to post it.

Dear Sir.
I will need a small Camera to carry with me in every days just point and shoot for recorded pictures ( yes, I already have the Cheapo one = Canon SX 160 IS , and Love her). and I have Most of the " L " Lens and some of the Canon Lenses.
The Question are to go to get Canon EOS REBEL SL1= the smallest DSLR that I can use with all canon Lenses, or Wait for the New EOS-M MK II come out to the market and buy the EF lens connector/ adaptor too .\
Yes, For DSLR, I have Canon 20 D, 1DS, 5D MK II and 7D( no up date for Bodies yet)----Yes, I am waiting for the new generation of 1DX( MK II ) or 3D in 2014.
Thanks you, Sir/ Madam
Surapon

Hi Folks.
Well a bit of the background story first, some of you may have seen previous posts about poor focus quality of my EF-S 17-85.
A couple of weeks ago I found an advert for a 20D plus 17-85 lens, body has error 99! Well I took a chance and bought it for less than a broken lens on ebay, turns out the lens ribbon is broken. The body works fine!

I have my trusty 300D which I have had from new, it has 8990 shutter count, I know this as it had cellophane on the box when I got it and has never been reset, it has a fault on the info window showing exposure and aperture info, I caused this during fixing non pop up flash, it is the ribbon clip I broke! Other than that it is perfect with known history and I can't remember the last time I needed that display.

I also have the 20D that I just bought, it seems to work perfectly so far, and has 5988 showing as the current image number but it may have been reset and I don't know how to read the shutter count, I have seen the posts on the Internet about paying certain sites to tell me from an image but also heard this doesn't work, only tells IMG no.

The 300D is now my camera for documenting restoration work on classic cars, it is in a workshop most of its life, I still treat it with respect despite its near zero value, and for what it is used for it is great! Previous use has included time lapse of work just for a bit of fun and this accounts for a couple of thousand of the shutter count!

Would any of you guys replace the 300D with the 20D, also very low resale value, would you determine true shutter count before making any kind of decision, if so how can I do that?
Will there be an improvement in image quality from the extra pixel count, how much more durable is the 20D than the 300D, what is the expected shutter life of each?

No back button focus on 300D and so far I've not found if it can be enabled on 20D there is no dedicated button, a menu setting maybe?

Currently I am having mainly sentimental reasons not to replace it as the 300D was a birthday present from my partner, in fact she has bought me both progressive upgrades as well (40D & 7D). I will not use either of these in the workshop just in case of a disaster.

What to do with the 300D if I do replace it with the 20D?
I couldn't sell it for spares as I hate to think of such a reliable working camera being parted out for bits. My family are either too old too young or too disinterested in photography to make use of it!

If you have got this far, sorry for rambling on, thanks for reading and hopefully you can help with some or all of the questions posed here!

Any thoughts gratefully received.

Cheers Graham.

I'd like to get a "as cheap as possible" android phone for 6d remote control and would like to ask for advice here. I've never gotten a smartphone before, I don't really need any smartphone capabilities, it's really just for this one purpose and voice telephony.

Are there any experiences with different phone types that don't really work with eos remote, what are you using?

https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=jp.co.canon.ic.eos.eosremote&hl=en

Edit: It seems a tablet would be really better suited for me, so I extended the topic to match this change.

I am attaching two versions of the same photo - untouched RAW (size reduced) and processed (size reduced).
The processed photo, on size reduction, has BAD banding in the dark areas. My processing values a (Camera Raw) are:
Contast +34, Vibrance +30, Saturation +8. Blue Saturation +24. Also brightened the eyes.
Rest are ALL untouched.
What am I doing wrong to get the banding? Hope my camera is able to handle such non severe processing??
I hope it is me and not the camera. If it is the camera, I do not know what to say.

Hoping to see some super photos from this versatile lens! Also any reviews.
Sanjay

Has anyone used this lens? What do you think about it?

N.B. Please only answer if you have direct personal experience of photographing fire-walks.

Toped in to take stills at a charity event as a favour, my gear is below.

No other situational light other than the charcoal. I have a 430ex and can borrow a second. I have loads of video lighting but don't want to ruin the ambience.

I also have a small manual ring-flash.

Not going to buy or hire anything else in as it's a favour.

Can anybody else suggest settings that havd worked for them, or even dhare some imsges.

I understand exposure and flash so have a rough idea how I might tackle it (slow shutter with flash, prhaps fire manually during exposure as subject passes my focus mark) but would really welcome the advice of anybody who has direct experience of this specific scenario.

For a full length portrait at tight distance my m and fast lens might be an option?

Thanks in advance, please provide images to show whats worked for you.

A couple of shots from the other night. I am not a great user of tripods (generally too bulky to carry round all the time), but I had little option for these exposures:


Marlow Weir in moonlight by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Diii, 24-105mmL at 24mm, ISO 500, 30secs at f10.0

I cannot choose between these first two...


Marlow Weir in moonlight by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 32mm, 25 secs at f10.0

And the last one:


Marlow Weir in moonlight by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 47mm, 20 secs at f10.0

Thanks for looking

Richard

Hi....

Looking for soon advice regarding the new bridge that overlooks the Hoover dam.
I visited the dam before this was built but would like to revisit now.

What's the best time of day to photo from the bridge?
Is there decent room to move around while shooting?
Will 24-70 cover the viewpoint?

Thanks!

I have a siste who has become a really enthusiastic photographer. And, a consequence of that is that, she´s asking me for advice. And I realize that I have different thresholds in almost any department compared to most others.

At the moment she has a 6D, with a 24-105 f4L IS. She is looking for a portrait lens and she will (probably) get a 70-300L. Then she asked me, what tripod should I buy. And I thought of the very nice Gitzo, RRS and so forth alternatives out there. But in all fairness, that is overkill. So the question I´d like some help with is, what is a good tripod/head package for a newbie, which may last (!)

Benro, Manfrotto, Slik ... I know there are lots of alternatives, but I would like some good tip.

Hey everyone!
I feel the need to update this concern that another forist posted some time ago.
I could'nt understand how he managed to fix it then. Does anyone know how can I get rid of those black bars/horizontal lines?
I post here what he wrote back then, I have the very same issue:

"I feel like an idiot asking this. It seems like I should be able to figure this out on my own, since I'm a long time Canon user, but for the life of me, I can't figure out why I am getting two horizontal lines, like video safe lines, embedded into the photo at the top and bottom.
They are not there when I use the viewfinder, which is why I haven' noticed until now. Several test shots later revealed the same result, and I cannot find a way to remove them."

Thanks so much!!!!

Tired of waiting for the new 400mm f/4 IS or 400mm f5.6 IS or the new 100-400mm, I'm thinking about upgrading to full frame

I do lots of bird photography (to me, that's the main reason for a telephoto), but not always, so good high-iso performance is a factor.

Is the combo mentioned in the topic a good one?

thanks

in terms of image quality alone are they the same?????

สงครามกล้อง

Enjoy.
Surapon

A few pictures from Dubai mall aquarium. Camera G-11

Hi All,

Long time reader, first time poster. Wanted to ask for a general consensus regarding the metering of the 5D MIII.
After two weeks of use, I noticed all my photo's were looking underexposed by around a stop. Mainly interior work, evaluative metering.

This is where i've sun a series of tests to establish what was up. Removed ALO and HTP, set the picture style to neutral (good representative jpeg preview for the camera histogram) Set up an 18% grey card in even lighting, filled the frame and spot metered off it. Indeed, it came out as I expected.

The histogram spike was 1 stop to 2/3 stop too far to the left (underexposed). I repeated this test a few times with the eye piece covered, top LCD covered (even though its not a light leak effected model, thought ild be safe). Reset camera settings, did a hard reset (removed the clock battery, battery and card), then finally reinstalled the latest firmware. No change.

A search online seems to show that a fair few people experience this same thing. A theory that is posted regularly is that Canon do this intentionally to preserve the highlights. Note: in the same shooting conditions my 7D experiences no such behaviour (histogram spike is perfectly centred).

I realise I could simply dial in a +EV but its proving a tad annoying, especially when using TTL flash and I can kiss goodbye to auto ISO in manual mode. So, the question is: does anyone with this camera experience this at all?

Thanks all!

Ross