Threads

MonteGraham · Sep 21, 2013

I would be using those 2 bodies with the 24-70mm 2.8L II and also the 70-200mm 2.8L IS II

MonteGraham · Sep 21, 2013

Hello

Im just getting into event photography such as weddings, birthday parties etc... I currently own

Canon 7D
Canon 5D Mark III
Tokina 11-16mm (Works at 16mm on FF)
Canon 50mm 1.4
Canon 24-70mm 2.8L II
Canon 70-200mm 2.8L IS II

Im also looking to purchase the Canon 100mm 2.8L Macro (for ring, cake type shots) What I'm interested in knowing is how can incorporate both camera bodies with those lenses and still be functional and not have to change lens back and forth? I was thinking of just keeping the 70-200mm on the 5D and using the 24-70mm on the 7D. But that leaves me with the issue of overlapping focal lengths and also wont have anything at the wider focal length for group shot.

Anyones familiar with event shooting that can help me figure this out would be great.

J.R. · Sep 21, 2013

Has anyone used this combo? How good / bad are the results?

Cheers ... J.R.

Mt Spokane Photography · Sep 20, 2013

Roger has not only the knowledge, but the very rare talent and ability to explain things in a way that we can understand.

There are lots of posts asking which lens is best, or asking if I have poor resolution, too much flare, or decentering, and more. Roger addresses the variables in lens design and manufacturing in a way that most of us can understand, and having a background as a designer, lab manager, and tester of some very tightly specified components and systems, I think he has hit it right on the head.

Enjoy!!

http://www.lensrentals.com/blog/2013/09/there-is-no-perfect-lens

Canon Rumors · Sep 20, 2013

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<p><strong>New Patent

</strong>We’ve heard before that an EF 24-70 f/2.8L IS was in testing.</p>
<p><strong></strong>A patent has surfaced that has confirmed Canon testing such a lens. The Canon folks out there would be pretty accepting of such a lens.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Patent Publication No. 2013-182246</strong>
<ul>
<li><span>Publication date 2013.9.12</span></li>
<li><span>Filing date 2012.3.5</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Example 1</strong>
<ul>
<li><span>Zoom ratio 2.75</span></li>
<li><span>Focal length f = 24.70-36.42-67.88mm</span></li>
<li><span>Fno. 2.91</span></li>
<li><span>Half angle ω = 41.22-30.71-17.68 °</span></li>
<li><span>Image height 21.64mm</span></li>
<li><span>164.87-172.85-196.79mm overall length of the lens</span></li>
<li><span>BF 39.07-44.44-54.56mm</span></li>
<li><span>20 pieces of 13-group lens configuration</span></li>
<li><span>Four four-sided aspherical</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Example 2</strong>
<ul>
<li><span>Zoom ratio 2.76</span></li>
<li><span>Focal length f = 24.70-34.88-68.18mm</span></li>
<li><span>Fno. 2.91</span></li>
<li><span>Half angle ω = 41.22-31.81-17.61 °</span></li>
<li><span>Image height 21.64mm</span></li>
<li><span>165.79-174.26-199.67mm overall length of the lens</span></li>
<li><span>BF 38.47-42.81-58.00mm</span></li>
<li><span>20 pieces of 15-group lens configuration</span></li>
<li><span>Three 3 aspherical surface</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Example 3</strong>
<ul>
<li><span>Zoom ratio 3.22</span></li>
<li><span>Focal length f = 24.70-39.67-79.43mm</span></li>
<li><span>Fno. 2.91</span></li>
<li><span>41.22-28.61-15.24 ° angle of view</span></li>
<li><span>Image height 21.64mm</span></li>
<li><span>161.98-171.74-200.99mm overall length of the lens</span></li>
<li><span>BF 38.35-46.17-57.64mm</span></li>
<li><span>20 pieces of 13-group lens configuration</span></li>
<li><span>Four four-sided aspherical</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Canon patent</strong>
<ul>
<li><span>5-group zoom of positive and negative positive positive and negative</span></li>
<li><span>Antivibration (fourth lens group)</span></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2013-09-21" target="_blank">EG</a>]</strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

STEMI_RN · Sep 20, 2013

I just bought a Canon Pixma Pro-100 thanks to the incredibly good deal post rebate (printer and paper cost me $80) and I'm looking for some advice/suggestions on paper. I had to buy a 50 sheet pack of Canon SG-201 Semigloss 13"x19". So far, I like it for everyday printing. I'm looking for something a little higher quality for gallery quality prints. (mostly landscape/nature. Not a lot of portraits) Don't mind spending the money for $3 a sheet for really fine paper. What can everybody recommend. Also if anybody has any recommendations to replace the canon paper for a little less money, I'm open to those suggestions too.

Thanks for the help.

awinphoto · Sep 20, 2013

Will the pocket wizard plus 3 play nicely with the pocket wizard plus x? I see a lot of either or reviews but no confirmation.

cheerdad · Sep 20, 2013

I have a lowe-pro 200 flip side camera bag. I have recently upgraded my gear to a 5d mark iii, 70-200 2.8 IS ii, 24-70 2.8 vs ii and a 600ex-rt. I anticipate adding two more lenses and use my bag for cary on when the family flies to cheer events.

Any thoughts on a new bag I was considering a lower 500, tarmac expedition 6 and vanguard sky borne 51.

suggestions are appreciated

cheerdad

Marsu42 · Sep 20, 2013

Since somehow every sensor thread seems to degrade quickly into gibberish and brand fanboyism, I'm a bit embarrassed to admit that I still don't get how the real world impact of a camera's read noise is.

My current understanding: traditional non-Exmor sensor designs have higher read noise at low iso which also affects max. dynamic range (but this thread isn't about dr). Also read noise doesn't equal banding artifacts, see the lower 7d figures - but this model has higher banding due to the dual readout channels.

sensorgen.info says: @iso 100 / 200 / 400 / 800:
7d: 8.4 / 4.7 / 3.3 / 2.8
60d: 13.2 / 8.4 / 4.4 / 3.2
5d3: 33.1 / 18.2 / 10.6 / 6.1
6d: 26.8 / 14.6 / 7.9 / 5.1

Question: Except for long time astronomy exposures, when (if at all) does this mean that shooting at higher iso might/will give better iq than at the lowest iso setting? Thanks for explaining!

Dylan777 · Sep 20, 2013

I brought my wife to local camera store last week. She wanted a "pink" camera bag for the RX1. While I was there, I got a chance to play with x100s.

I'm NOW having a high fever for it :

:

PhotoCat · Sep 20, 2013

Hello all,

Just got my 1st 600ex-rt and tested the recycling time against my old 580EXII at full power,
using 4 eneloop 200mA batteries fully charged. Hard to believe the 600 is recycling slower than my old 580exii.

3.6Sec on 600 versus 2.8Sec on 580. Anyone has similar experience?

Perhaps the 600ex-rt is too new and it takes time for the capacitor to "form"??

Any help would be appreciated.

tiger82 · Sep 20, 2013

I had both of these lenses on my glass upgrade list and now that I got a deal on a Canon refurb 16-35, is there any greatly added utility to having a 14 along with my newly acquired 16-35? Would I use both?

That said, I am now selling my 17-40mm f/4L

Scott_McPhee · Sep 20, 2013

Anyone used the Canon EF 300 mm F/2.8 L IS USM Lens with a 2X III TC?
How does it perform for AF, etc?

It will be the Mark I version of this lens I will be using - for air shows mainly.

Looking for something that will focus quickly and be razor sharp - I have heard very good reports of the 300mm F/2.8L and it;s reputation for sharpness but am concerned how the 2X III TC will effect it.

Body I will be using is a 5D mark III.

Canon Rumors · Sep 20, 2013

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<p><strong>Nothing new for the EOS/EF family in 2013?

</strong>We’ve received word from a very good source that Canon has no more product announcements for EOS or EF in 2013. There is always the possibility of a “development” announcement, but no new product will be announced or shipped in 2013.</p>
<p>The same source had previously said that only 1 entry level DSLR will begin shipping in Q1 of 2014.</p>
<p><strong>EOS M?

</strong>I hoping to hear confirmation from the same source as to whether or not EOS M is included in the “no new products for the EOS/EF line in 2013″.</p>
<p><strong>CR’s Take

</strong>I think manufacturers are going to ride out a pretty stagnant year and try to build a lot of hype for 2014. Economic recovery around the globe will further recover and we should expect a very exciting 2nd half of 2014 for new gear.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Marsu42 · Sep 20, 2013

I recently realized my 17-40L has this back filter holder

and I now even have though of a use for it: With my 10x glass screw-in nd filter I don't get long enough shutter times for cloud blur in bright daylight, so I'd like to add another gel nd filter.

Question: What nd gels do I get to put behind the 17-40L?

purry · Sep 20, 2013

Using a 60D

KKCFamilyman · Sep 19, 2013

I am getting my camera (5d3) replaced and have the opportunity to sell the replacement and get factory refurbed 1d x for $3900 or spend $1600 more to have 2 5d3's so I will have a backup. Just not sure if I should jump on the 1d x since I have lived this long with 1 body or get the 2 5d3's. My main want is stop better iso performance, customizable ae adjustments, more accurate metering. Just looking for people who have both to give some insight. I do like the smaller size, silent shutter, lower weight but want a tool thats best for the job. So far events and portraits are all I have done. Also landscapes and macro.

ryoken · Sep 19, 2013

Hi everyone,

I've been following this forum for some time now, and now hoping to draw on the collective wisdom... I have a T2i that's coming up on 3 years of service, purchased brand new in November of 2010. Up until a couple of months ago it worked flawlessly, but now it has this strange intermittent behavior that manifests itself in 2 ways:

Scenario 1
After a shot is taken, LCD blacks out for 10-15 seconds and the camera is not responsive. After that, the preview flashes quickly and the camera returns to normal operation.

Scenario 2
After a shot is taken, the camera is in AF/metering mode as though the shutter button is half-pressed, LCD shows current settings/status. I usually shoot in manual with Av/Tv set to what I want and ISO on auto trying to keep it under 400, so when in this state I can point the camera to different things and hear AF confirmation beeps and see ISO value changing on the LCD. Pressing the shutter button snaps the picture and returns the camera to normal operation.

Additional notes:
1) The number of actuations is ~15K
2) The rate of occurrence is fairly low, perhaps 1-2 per 100 shots taken, and as mentioned above this is a new fenomenon that started a couple of months ago
3) Scenario 1 appears to be more common, and at first I suspected SD card (32GB Sandisk Ultra); however I was still seeing the problem after swapping SD card for another Sandisk Ultra.
4) This happens with different lenses
5) The camera has not been exposed to elements (rain, fog, ocean spray, beach sand, etc) or large temperature variations
6) In both scenarios, the image taken when the issue is triggered is fine; I shoot raw+jpeg and both files are fine, there are no physical (e.g. data corruption) or optical anomalies in the image

My speculation is that the camera has developed a mechanical issue, perhaps with the shutter button, and it will get progressively worse as I continue to use the camera. I am curious to know if anyone has seen such problem.

Thanks in advance!

Marsu42 · Sep 19, 2013

This is a thought experiment I've been wondering about, I hope I understand the basics correctly

...

Let's say I want to have a certain depth of field and use a full frame and a crop camera with the same shutter speed. When going from crop to ff, I'd need to close the aperture to get the same dof for the same field of view. At the same time, I could raise the iso to counter this light loss with the ff and to remain at the same shutter speed.

Question: Which iq (noise, ...) is better: crop with lower iso or ff with higher iso? When shooting handheld with a macro lens at macro distance, maybe shooting with a crop is even better than ff if a large dof is wanted?

duydaniel · Sep 19, 2013

Since Nikon is releasing a D610
I bet Canon will release a 6D2 ;D

Any thoughts?

mbworldz · Sep 19, 2013

Does anyone use ring flash for portraits or any wedding photography?
What would you recommend ?

Robboesan · Sep 19, 2013

So I want to buy a fast tele prime and I recently checked out the 135mm Softfocus. (my Budget is extremely low) I dont really care about softfocus, although it would add a unique touch to my pictures.
Do you guys have any experience worth sharing? Is it good? (Bokeh, focus, built quality, optical quality etc.?)
I use a Canon 7D and a old 1D
Thanks!

surapon · Sep 19, 2013

Dear Sir, / Madam
I Use Eneloop AA Batteries for many years and Love them, But Eneloop =1.2V Min. 1,900 mAh.
Yes, I use to use Energizer 2,500 mAh too, But I not happy about short Life per Flash.
Now, My Photographer friends from the Local Camera club in my home town want me to try the Made in China AA Battery = 3,000 mAh 8 pieces = $ 12 US Dollars

http://compare.ebay.com/like/360384724214?_lwgsi=y&ltyp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar

I so afraid that this High Power Cheapo might Kill my Canon Flashes.
What do you think, Sir ?
Should I try ?
Thanks.
Surapon

jimjamesjimmy · Sep 19, 2013

hi , can someone explain the theory behind choosing the aperture when shooting big landscapes.

i can understand it when shooting portraits or street stuff, for example, focal depth, to get a faster shutter etc

so for example like earlier i was in a farmers field, huge open farmland, but a terrific sunset/moonrise sun/moon off camera but a lovely pink cloudy sky with some interesting pylons, ive got a polariser and a soft graduated filter to help me out balancingthe sky, lets assume i use the correct hyperfocal distance and focus there on 100 iso, im in manual , now if time value isnt an really an issue, whats the best aperture to use? bearing in mind i can change the time value to get a correct exposure.

this always stumps me, and i just guess :S!

thanks

brianftpc · Sep 19, 2013

I got my Canon 1Dx December 31, 2012 and the right grip is turning white. I had read about this happening on the 5D3 but not on the 1Dx. Is there a recall on this problem?

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Canon EF 300 mm F/2.8 L IS USM Lens with a 2X III TC

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