I'm not sure which forum would be best for this...hoping this is the place.

I have a 5D3...and I LOVE it.

However, coming up next month (I live in New Orleans), I'll be in the Irish Channel Parade in the Uptown area, for the St. Pat's parade...kilt and all.

As you can imagine, a St. Pat's parade in New Orleans, involves at least a little consumtion of adult beverages (and kissing pretty girls along the way, etc).

I'd love to take some pics during my parade...of said pretty ladies, and if nothing else, to help me to recall the next day, what the heck I ended up doing and where I went.

As you can imagine, I'd NOT want to carry and risk my nice and very $$$ DSLR...so, what would be a good alternative? What could I get, bang for the buck for GOOD images...but in smaller format. Is there any type of point and shoot type all in one camera that shoots RAW? I'd think especially in a smaller camera, I'd want as much ability to edit in PP?

I'm not necessarily needing to go cheap...it doesn't have to only be $200 or less...

I'm looking for what I could get with as good a quality I could get, at a price point that wouldn't make me sick if I lost or broke it by accident.

I'd also think something like this might be nice to have for Mardi Gras (going on now)...as that on the parade routes, well, there is some drinking there, etc...and you sometimes get jokers on the floats that will really wing a big bag of heavy beads at you when you might be not looking (focusing through camera for instance) and whack you pretty bad...which could damage a nice 5D3.

So, what would be your suggestions for a good as you can get camera, but won't break the bank if something *did* happen to it...?

Thanks in advance,

cayenne

Hi folks!

I just got my 5d mark ii and still have no lenses because i want to make the best decision. Unfortunately i can only buy ONE because i sold everything i had to afford the 5d!

I`m stuck between a Sigma 50mm 1.4 and a Canon 85mm 1.8. I find them both stunning lenses and very sharp, but i just cant decide.
Will the 85mm be to long for portraits and group photos? And about the background blur, wich one will give a more smoother background, and nicer bokeh?
And the focus, i heard the 85 is much more accurate and faster. For night shots, how will the 1.8 behave?

In my research ive also read about the canon 100mm 2.0, because it woul be more like the amazing135mm 2 but should i wait a little bit more and save more money and buy the 100, is it worth it? I quite woried that it will be too long to be my only lens.
Im driving myself crazy!

Hope you can help me make the best decision so i can take the 5d out of the box and hit the streets!

I am reading up a lot on this, preparing for purchasing a 7D classic, and everyone seems to agree that the 18mp APS-C sensor is capable of excellent results, providing it is paired with a "good enough lens".

So, my question is: Which lenses ARE good enough for the 18mp APS-C sensor?

Lots of answers are: "L mark II"

So, is it only L mark II that are "good enough" for 7D? Where do you draw the line? At L-glass?
Is the 85mm f1.8 good enough? The 70-300 non-L? the 17-40L?

If someone had a list of "good enough" lenses, I would (and I think others too) appreciate it a lot. Especially where to draw the line. L mark II are WAY out of my budget, so lets set the limit to 1000$.

Which lenses are good enough (sharp and resolving power) for the 18mp APS-C sensor, below 1000$?

Come on! Give me some nice recommendations! (3rd party is fine too)

We've just heard from Canon, over on their own forum, that they have acknowledged the problem, and a fireware fix should be in the pipeline

http://forums.usa.canon.com/t5/EOS/5D3-AF-assist-beam-slower-focus/m-p/13107#M1450

Just relaying the news.

I'm now a very happy 5D3 owner...

[mod edit: changed title to reflect Canon's statement that the fix applies to the 1D X as well]

Here is another (at the moment hypothetical) lens which I think would make for an intersting converation.

If Canon released a new "EF 28-300mm L IS II" lens (with the same height, weight, IQ, sharpness, AF performance, aperture etc etc as the EF 70-300 L IS), would you see a reason to acquire such a lens for yourself? (please try not to answer for the rest of the world ;D ... just answer if you see a reason for yourself to buy it).
and
How much would you be willing to pay for it?

As for me, I see a great potential for such a lens ... it most likely will remain on my camera during vacations or daytime outings etc ... and I'd be willing to pay $2500 to $3000

I seem to have broken my current tripod. It was a nice, sturdy, and fairly light weight aluminum 'pod, and has served me well for nearly four years. I went to set it up today, and apparently one of the legs no longer lock...it just swings freely. I am not sure when or how I damaged the locking mechanism, but it is well and truly dead (no attempts to fix it have worked).

I already own a Gitzo Traveler Series 0 for long hikes. I love it, the CF design is excellent, it is extremely light weight, very compact, and extremely versatile. I've decided to stick with Gitzo for a replacement to the tripod that broke, and I'm looking at the Systematic Series 3 line. I'm having a hard time deciding between the three-leg and four-leg version of the GT35XXLS. The four leg seems to collapse slightly shorter and is slightly lighter. It also seems to be about an inch shorter.

I need a good, sturdy tripod to handler lenses up to the EF 600mm f/4 L IS II, with a TC, along with either a 7D or 5D III, with battery packs. I currently use a Jobu Pro 2 gimbal head, which might add about 10-12 inches of height on top of the tripod. I need something that will put the camera at eye-level when I am standing (I'm 6' tall). I think the GT35XXLS will do that, the pods seem to be around 58" tall. I need something nice and sturdy, too...which is really where my question comes from. Does the extra (fourth) leg section of the GT3542LS affect stability much?

I'm curious if anyone has used these two tripods with larger lenses, preferably with a gimbal, and a larger camera body. Thanks!

short video clip to watch, from the guys over at Pentaxforums.
Interview with Tamron marketing guy.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=jRrELlKv0mw

with the decent performance of their moderate range zooms, I'll be very interested in seeing them return to making some good primes to compete with OEM and Sigma in the "affordable" market.

Too bad the old Adapt-all theme is not returning any time soon. Would be great for us multi-platform types.

If you're interested and have a chance, let them know you'd like them to produce some. I'll likely be talking to my local rep in the next couple months about it.

I got a red ring.
My first 'L' glass
70-200mm F4 L (non IS)

I shoot 50% of wedding and 50% of sports i have a 7d and a 40d and looking to upgrade. not sure which way to go.

Haven't seen this on here yet. Couldn't find an off-topic forum so I thought here would be best.

I just finished comparing my old 1Ds MkII (mark two!) and the new 5D MkIII.

16,7 old megapixels vs 22 new megapixels.

At base sensitivity of 100ASA 1Ds MkII won in detail resolving abilities!
Also, shadow noise in dark areas looks nicer in 1Ds MkII files.

I have compared tiffs made from RAW using Capture One 7.0.2 with default sharpening both on and off,
with all noise reduction/smoothing options turned off.

1Ds MkII files look crisper and with more fine detail.

Compared to them, 5D MkIII files look as if they were made with lower resolution camera than 1Ds MkII,
and then were artificially up sampled with Photoshop to a larger file size.

Here are two 100% crops...
Scroll them to the right to see those windows with white blinds:
real usable detail in 16.7mp 1Ds MkII files,
mushy moire in 22mp 5D MkIII files.

Again, both RAW files were developed with the EXACT same settings in Capture One,
test was done on a tripod, with 50mm lens set at f8:








I will post more crops and pulled shadows samples tomorrow, I must go to work now!

Hi there.

It might already been discussed, but I couldn't find any posts that answered my questions properly.

I just purchased an old Iscorama Anamorph 1.5x - with a Nikon mount. Which I've chosen to have re-housed at Van Diemen in the UK. Its primeraly for shooting video on a Canon 5D mkIII - but also on Sony FS700, Canon C300 etc. - all with EOS EF mounts.

The plan was to ditch the original Nikon taking lens - a 50mm f/2.8. So I started to look for some new "taking-lenses". My plan is to get a kit with: 35mm, 50mm, 85mm, 100mm, 135mm - and maybe a 200mm.

The filter thread on the re-housed Iscorama will end up being 58mm - so I thought a set of old FD lenses would be nice - and affordable. But I then read, that they couldn't be focussed to infinity. Which is how the Iscoramas work. Set the "taking lens" to infinty - and focus with the Iscorama.

Is there still no solution out for a FD to EF conversion or adaptation that allows for infinity focus?

I read about the theLensdoctor.co,uk - but have anyone here tried him, and most important - does it work?

Would I be better off choosing lenses from another brand?

Thanks, Tommy

Anyone have experience using the latest Sigma 50-500 OS for birding? I am thinking of renting one to use on my XXD crop body. I realize there are other better prime supertelephotos for this, but I've wanted to try this lens for a while, since it is within my budget to purchase...and the cost of rental is less too. Also I like the idea of the 10x zoom range. I've read many of the lens' faults, but I'm keeping an open mind. I've tried the Canon 500 f/4 in the past, and never could get it to AF accurately (using AFMA), or even to manually focus sharply at all with Canon's version iii 1.4x TC. Not sure why, but I do know it was an optical problem...because even when I manually focused the live view image at 10x, it was never razor sharp, before the shutter was ever engaged...nor was the IS engaged. The tripod was a relatively sturdy carbon fiber, but admittedly not the "best". The lens was tested and they found nothing wrong. No doubt the new version is much better. Not that I'm implying the Sigma would be optically better, either, of course...but I digress.

Even if you haven't used this Sigma lens specifically for birding, please feel free to tell me some of your experience.

The birds will be mostly small at distances from 15 to 50 feet, some will hopefully be robins near the ground at a greater distance. I own a decent carbon fiber monopod which is rated for 50 pounds.

Wednesday, January 30, 2013
NORTHBROOK, Ill.—Underwriters Laboratories is launching the first digital-camera performance standard in February and plans to have some cameras certified in time for ISC West, Bob Jamieson, UL general manager, life safety and security industries, told Security Systems News.
“We’ve had a lot of discussions with manufacturers,” Jamieson said, “and for the most part they’ve been very enthusiastic … [the standard] will help prevent false claims.”
Called UL 2802, the new standard is in the final review and comment period. In the works for more than a year, the standard will be used to grade digital cameras on a scale of 1 to 5 for a number of characteristics including image sharpness, field-of-view confirmation, signal-to-noise ratio, TV distortion, relative illumination, color fidelity, dynamic range, maximum frame rate, gray level, sensitivity, bad pixels, veiling glare and housing tamper protection.
UL’s in-house experts worked with “industry, government [and other stakeholders] quantifying performance characteristics of digital cameras,” Jamieson said. The top six digital camera manufacturers globally were involved with the creation of the standard.
“The lab test is very consistent from camera to camera,” Jamieson said.
This is the first of five related standards that will evaluate an entire digital video system. The testing organization is also in the process of creating standards for transmission, storage, video analytics and displays.
However, the new standard “will look [solely] at performance, not operability,” Jamieson said.
“What UL has done is created a way to [look at digital cameras] using some independent performance measurements,” said Steve Surfaro, industry liaison for Axis Communications, who is working with UL on the project.
Surfaro said designers and specifiers “will be the first group to benefit from this standard.” He predicted that government entities would be among the first end users to employ the standard.
For integrators, the standard “will be an excellent tool to understand a particular product line,” he said.
Initially all testing will take place at UL’s facility here, with testing likely at other facilities in the future.
“Several products will be certified [before] ISC West,” Jamieson said. The process will be quick for manufacturers. “Turnaround will be about half a week for certification,” he said.

Hey everyone...I think what i'm after is people's real life experience with what I'm about to ask. So, please spare me purchasing a particular camera based on just specs. Only because I've spent the last few days comparing specs and other stuff. So here goes...

I'm looking for a second FF body - going to be used for weddings, seniors, studio, engagements....typical photo-shoots.

I have a 5D MK II with plenty of incredible lenses to go around. 2 40d bodies I purchased back in 2007 that I use for going on vacation and any sports related job ( or where I don't want to burn the 5D shutter).

So here's what I'm looking at....and then why -

I've been looking on ebay at the Canon 1ds Mark III. It ranges from anywhere from 1,900 to 3,000. I know it's an older camera, however, here's what I like about it.

It too is a 21 mp camera, which means I will spend less time re-sizing images ( to match my 5D) as the 5D mark II is 21/22. Full Frame, great focusing system, completely weather sealed.

There are a lot of other awesome things about it, however, I would like people who have/had had/used their perspective as to whether or not it's worth the purchase vs. buying a 6d or even 5d mk III.

I'm only ever going to use it for stills. If I need a video camera, i'll use my 5d mk II or buy a small video camera. It's sole purpose is for stills.

For the price, I could buy a 6d or 5d MK III, however, I'm not really needing all of the bells and whistles the 5d MK III and 6D have. However, I will be moving to an area that has quite a bit more precipitation and would like a fully sealed camera, but am just not quite sure at the moment.

I have found 5D MK II's for half of the cost, however, I'm starting to feel what people have said about it's slow focusing and inconsistent autofocus. I've put up with it so far...and actually have gotten used to it...so I wouldn't mind another one.....

Like I mentioned, spare me the "buy a 5d MKII and spend the rest on lenses" bit. I have several L lenses and awesome primes that cover the gaumet of what I shoot. I'm just after a camera body. The 1dx is out of the question, but everything else is on the table.

I almost always get great responses, so I thought I would come here first before any other thread.

Thanks.

Jendrick

Background:

I bought a used late model (smooth finish) sigma 30mm f1.4 lens.

Worked fine in MF mode (using live view at least) but not in AF mode (including Focus confirmation in MF mode)
usuable on my 7D at +18 MFA, unusable on my 600D for stills.

Submitted to supplier for repair 3 weeks ago, told today that it will be another 3 weeks before Sigma will look at it.

Have been offered a replacement used lens, but older version (fuzzy finish)

Dilemma:

Do I accept the older lens (potentially as old as 2005) which may have the same AF issue?

Do I wait and hope Sigma fix the lens I bought? (was in very nice condition with box, hood etc)

It's a lens I am quite keen to have in my kitbag and got it at a good price (thankfully with guarantee)

What would you do between these two options? Wait for the newer lens to be fixed, or take a (hopefully working) older copy of the lens instead?

N.B. Buying a 1DX and 35 f1.4L is not an option, so please don't be that guy.

Hello
Anyone have any experience/sample images with this lens? I know it is probably not great; but B&H has it on for $399 on sale. Thought it might be ok to stick on my 60D for when the family goes to amusement parks, zoo, etc, for when I don't want to change lenses or carry a large kit.

Thanks for your two cents!

How long does it normally take for a new body ala 6D to start showing up on the refurb website?

I need some advice on the 2 below versions:

1. GoPro HERO3: Black Edition Camera
2. GoPro HERO3: Black Edition Camera Surf Kit

Both are the same camera and also priced the same i.e. $400 ... but one comes with some extra stuff for mounting on to the surf board. The other one is basically the same thing without the surfboard mounts.

I do not intended to use it for surfing as I do not surf.
I will be using it for slow-motion video footage in dry, dusty desert landscapes and occasionally offshore for our company's rig fleet from a chopper ... the camera will be mounted on my 4X4 off-road vehicle ... and sometimes on a helmet while descending into sink holes and in the chopper going to offshore rigs.

Now my questions for your advice:
1. Can the surfboard mounts be used on a 4X4 off road vehicle?
if not
2. What kind of additional attachments do I need to mount it on to a 4X4 off road vehicle?
3. What kind of additional attachments do I need for to mount it on to a safety helmet?

I see several accessories here: http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=Hero+Go+Pro&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=
... but am not sure if they really suit my requirements.
So does anyone have any experience with these or any other mounting/securing accessories, specifically, for GoPro Hero 3 camera, that worked well for you?
I did google and youtube but can't seem to make up my mind as I am uncertain about the ease of usage of these accessories.

I do not wish to buy any other alternative cameras, unless they can do everything that a GoPro Hero 3 Black Edition can do and cost $400 or less (excluding accessories of course) ... so any advice specific to my above questions is highly appreciated.

Thank in advance

here's an interesting story.
Instead of the color filters used on typical Bayer or other patterned image sensors, this is a color-splitting method based on diffraction within the sensor surface.
This could utilize significantly more incoming light to create electrons for readout signal.
Overall increase in effective QE and SNR possible.

IMO, This may be a method better suited to tiny pixels in small sensors rather than larger sensors and larger pixels in higher end cameras. Either way, an interesting and promising development.

http://photorumors.com/2013/02/04/panasonic-to-double-sensors-sensitivity-with-unique-micro-color-splitters/#more-38804

Anybody else out there suffer any physical ailments from your gear and what did you do about it? I'm a long time street photographer and I typically shoot for 4 or 5 hours or more at a time. My current equipment (T2i/tamron 18-270) isn't overly heavy by itself but I'm a slight individual and the length of time I walk around on hard concrete takes it's toll. Add to that is the fact that the camera tends to stay on one half of the body the whole time because it's easier and faster to shoot like that. I have a long microfibre strap that let's the camera rest on my buttock cheek (sorry). The constant banging on my body doesn't bother me there. Any higher and the camera would bang against one's hip bone which gets very painful after about 1/2 an hour. About a year ago I started waking up in the morning with very painful soles. It would eventually go away but it scared me that it would become permanent. A visit to the local podiatrist resulted in shoe inserts ($600) and all of a sudden I felt very old. I decided I didn't want to live with the inserts especially since it really limited what kind of shoes I could wear. So I adjusted my shooting regimen. I don't go out for as long as I used to and I take regular sit down breaks. My shooting is alot more targeted to smaller areas with a higher chance of getting decent shots rather than walking endlessly through low percentage neighbourhoods with sparse opportunities.
The reason I didn't upgrade to a full frame earlier was the weight but the 6D solved that problem. The 6D with a 24-105 lens is almost equal to the weight I'm carrying now. Something to consider for all you young'uns out there that plan on shooting your whole life. Maybe check in with a podiatrist every couple of years and keep an eye on your neck and hips.

( I initially posted in the wrong section, sorry for that)

Hey all, I read this on the other rumors site, and it got me intrigued to what canon might have on their test shelves!

The rumors for the d4x are :

Same body as the Nikon D4
36 MP sensor without AA filter, designed and made by Nikon, with some new improvements (moire in-camera reduction)
6 fps (11 fps is the maximum possible fps with the current shutter)
Few video improvements
Price should be few hundred dollars above the D4 (currently listed for $5996.95).
Announcement expected in fall of 2013

(scource: the other rumor site)

Could canon have something similarly planned for the 1dx-s?, or maybe a high mp body based on the 5dIII (Like a 5ds )

6 fps for that many pixels sounds really interesting, if they could include a crop mode ( like the d800) and boost the fps 50% like the d800 with grip in dx mode, it would give you 36mp 6fps and 14mp(1.6 crop) with 8-9 fps...

I hope canon is planning something like that, i would love a '2 in 1' camera with high fps ( and still hoping for better buffer sizes on the cameras, like 60 raw....)

For a lot of us, the canon 5D mk iii is too expensive. If you compare features between canon $3300 paid in average for this camera is way too expensive, if you compare between canon and nikon it does make sense at all either. Honestly the real price currently for this camera should be $2500 top. Why is so high? Canon are you listening? I want this camera but I am stuck in buying the 6d!

I have lurked on CanonRumors for a couple of years and learned a lot from reading some of the forum posts. I am hoping some of those that have been on an African safari can provide insight on what lenses to take. I am taking my son for his high school graduation in August and will spend one week in Zambia (Vic Falls and South Luangwa) and then a week in the Masai Mara for the migration. I have a 7D and my new 5DIII is on its way from B&H today. So obviously taking both cameras along with the G15. I am trying to figure out what lens combination to use. Lenses include 100-400, 70-200 2.8 ver 1, 24-105, 17-55, and the new Sigma 35 1.4. I can borrow a friend's 300mm 2.8 ver 1 with extender and am contemplating buying the 70-300L for travel as it is smaller then the 70-200. I can't really afford for a 500mm lens at this point and I don't see a new 100-400 on the horizion.

Given the weight limits on some of the African flights what would you recommend as combinations for the 7D and 5DIII?

I am thinking - 7D with 17-55 and new 70-300L. 5DIII with 24-105, 300 2.8 and 100-400. I would also probably take the Sigma for low light. Any thoughts? Too many lenses? Thanks in advance.