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focus-- 5diii

I know i should know the answer to this but . . . .
when focusing on a face with a 5diii, using all the sensors and allowing the camera to choose, does it focus on the nose (the nearest part) or the eyes
i have typically used a single point , in AI focus mode, focused on the eyes and then recomposed
i have noticed when i use an aperture that had a narrow DOF, especially when recomposing, that some of my portraits are subtley off, with focus on the wrong part of the face.
not sure if the focus is off from the start, if it is the recompsing that is throwing it off, or if it just is a matter of the subject (kid) moving just a bit in the context of narrow DOF
i am wondering if i should be using a larger group of focus sensors or all the sensors and if tha might help it lock and track a bit better
thoughts?

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New Firmware for the EOS-1D C

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<p>A new firmware update is available for the EOS-1D C. Firmware Version 1.3.x adds new functionality incorporating the following features and modifications:</p>
<p><b>Lens aberration correction with EF Cinema Lenses:</b> Communication between Canon EF Cinema lenses and Canon cameras has had a few effects on the operation of the EOS-1D C. The following features are now available as menu options:</p>
<ul>
<li>Peripheral Illumination Correction: This feature maintains even brightness from corner to corner of an image. This will virtually eliminate vignetting and any other unevenness of light across the image.</li>
<li>Chromatic Aberration Correction: This feature reduces color fringing in areas of an image with high contrast color. It reduces color bleeding, which is easily noticeable at edges and degrades perceived image quality.</li>
<li>In addition, communication between the lens and camera body will allow the F-stop to now be seen on the viewfinder. Focus position and F-stop will also now be recorded by the camera.</li>
<li>Flicker caused by manual aperture adjustment has been reduced with this update, this could cause slight underexposure which may result in exposure compensation in some cases.</li>
</ul>
<p><b>Sound recording with Line input:</b></p>
<ul>
<li>After requests from users in the field, audio recording through a mini plug (3.5mm) connected to the external microphone terminal is now supported. This will allow for the recording of audio sources other than microphones, such as mobile devices or audio players. The standard input level is -8 dBV and can reach an input signal of up to +6 dBV. Sound recording levels are adjustable at 64 sound-recording levels.</li>
</ul>
<p>Service support start date is anticipated mid-October 2013. For information regarding the EOS-1D C firmware update (which must be performed by a Canon Factory Service center) please contact Canon Cinema EOS Support at <b>1-855-CINE-EOS</b> (246-3367).</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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Any idea when the 24-70 f/4 L is going to be cheaper?

A bit of a ramble, but just looking for some feedback.

I shoot on a 6D, I recently damaged the focus ring on my 24-105L, and repair for it was quoted at $300. The ring is very stiff to rotate, which basically makes me unable to smoothly focus while shooting video. The autofocus still works fine though, so I continue to use it for still photography, which is about 85% of the work I do anyway. The lens is less than a year old, but even that with what it is worth, I'm a bit hesitant to spend that money on a repair that isn't critical.

I have an idea to try to sell the lens for a low-ball amount as-is (maybe $400), thinking someone who only shoots stills may find use for it. I also have a 17-55 f/2.8 that I was using before I got the 6D, and it pretty much useless to me now since I can't mount it on a full-frame. My reasoning is that if I sell both lenses, I can put the money towards the new 24-70 f/4.

Being that it is still so new though, the price is a bit high for my tastes. It is no doubt an excellent lens, but for the compromises it makes (35mm shorter, while still being f/4) I'd rather not dump $1500 on it. Anyone that tracks prices know when it may come down a little in price? Or should I just bite the bullet and spend $300 repairing my 24-105, pretty much hold onto that one forever? I also regularly shoot with a 50 f/1.4 and 85 f/1.8, so I'm not sunk at the moment, it's just a bit of a bummer.

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Nikon announces waterproof, shockproof MILC

New from Nikon is the Nikon 1 AW1 (press release), a mirrorless interchangeable lens camera that's waterproof (down to 49 feet), shockproof (6.6 foot drop), and freezeproof (down to 14 °F). The body uses their 14.2 MP CX-format (2.7x crop) CMOS sensor, which is the same size sensor used in the Sony RX-100.

To go with the new mirrorless body, there are two new lenses - an 11-27.5mm f/3.5-5.6 (30-74mm FFeq) and a 10mm f/2.8 (27mm FFeq), both of them waterproof/shockproof/freezeproof to the same specs as the AW1 body.

They've also announced development of a SB-N10 Underwater Speedlight to go with the system.

Supposed to be available next month, MSRP of $800 for the AW1 + 11-27.5 kit, $1000 for the AW1 + both lenses kit.

While not waterproof to sufficient depth for scuba diving, this system would be great for snorkeling, pool and beach use - no need for a bulky waterproof housing (but it's likely not buoyant, so plan on attaching a float).

Will we see an EOS MW and waterproof EF-MW lenses (complete with blue ring) someday? That would be pretty sweet...

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Cheap manual flash to use for fill lighting...

so I have been side lighting photos of my infant daughter using a 580 exii, an umbrella, and a yongnuo 622c... and even though I can't access all the ettl features immediately (I'm pretty sure it is operator error), I think the shadows from being side lit aren't exactly what I'm looking for.

so I wasn't too get a cheap manual flash that I can couple with my rouge flash bender to add some fill flash or maybe even side lit fromtheother side using a wire that attached to the hot shoe.

I was thinking about one of the newer brand flashes for 40 bucks, but once I nut it it will only be worth twenty bucks if I sell it. I hate losing money on gear... it drives me nuts. so I was thinking, maybe I should buy something like a 430 ex ii which will retain its value, but 200 v 40 seems like a bad use of resources.

I see really old manual speed lites on craigslist, but the head doesn't articulate backwards...

so the question is... what is the right price to pay for a manual flash that will only be used inside the home for fill light.

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Is it flare, internal reflections or a ghost

I have a new camera and new lens photographing an old subject matter. Since the new camera+lens (Canon 6D and Canon 24-105 f4 L) I have been getting a green ghost image(s). Does anyone know what this is and how to avoid it?

It looks like internal reflections of the really bright lights on the bridge and the wharf.

On this photo are two examples of the problem:
- Top centre green boxes (5)
- Centre centre green dots (7) that appear just above the bridges arch
Any and all help appreciated.

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New Rogue Safari flash-booster. Please e-mail Rogue to make a larger version.

I just received a newsletter about Rogue's "Safari" flash-booster. Looks great and appears better built than the "Better Beamer," but it is only meant for pop-up flashes. I have already e-mailed Rogue to request a version for regular flashes and would like to encourage others to request the same. TIA.

http://www.roguesafari.com/products/rogue-safari-dslr-pop-up-flash-booster

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AF hit ratio with 100L and portraits?

I was recently practicing portrait photography with my old 60d and the 100L, usually set to f2.8. Unfortunately, I find the af misses a lot, much more than in macro photography - am I doing something wrong?

I was using focus & recompose on the eye due to the lack of af points on the 60d, and in good light the lens missed about 1/3rd (some near misses, some real out of focus), and in bad light the af hit ratio was a sheer catastrophe but that's simply because the 60d doesn't af in dim light. I wonder:

* Is my technique wrong? The 100L has a very slow af as a macro lens, but is 1/3rd misses in focus & recompose with aperture wide open what I should expect... I waited for the af confirm after all? For macro, I nearly never shoot wide open.

* Is my camera af broken or maybe dirty? I recently also find my 70-300L @f4 missing somewhat more often than I remember. Btw I never tested the lenses for afma since my 60d hasn't got it anyway.

Edit: I could add some sample pictures if that helps, I didn't throw the bad ones away yet.

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Phottix Building Odin Transceiver Tech into Mitros flash units

Saw this tidbit at PhotoRumors, Phottix is integrating their radio flash trigger system into their Mitros TTL flash:

http://photorumors.com/2013/09/18/phottix-announces-mitros-ttl-transceiver-flash-with-built-in-radio-trigger/#more-49486

Thinking this may be a better way to do off-camera flash. Nothing on pricing yet, and the Mitros flash goes for $350 for a full TTL flash that Dave Hobby really likes. Don't know yet what the cost will be with transceiver baked in.

http://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/07/phottix-mitros-nikon-review-real-deal.html

Anyone use the Phottix Odin flash trigger system and can compare it to the PocketWizard tools? How about the Phottix flashes, anyone use those?

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600EX-RT AF Light Assist

I used to have an canon 580EXII and I remeber that when I choose the central focus point the AF assist light from flash only lights the center (iluminating only the center focus point). When I choose all focus points, the AF assist light illuminates all the focus points.

Now with the 600EX it don't seems to have the same feature, if I choose only the center focus point or all focus point, the AF assist light is the same, iluminating all AF points. Is it right or I have a unit with defect?

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Thought on a full screen histogram option

My main use of the rear LCD display is to view the exposure via the histogram. As many have found, judging the exposure from the picture can be very misleading, but 'blinkies' can be helpful. However the histogram is always very small, and subtleties regarding small amounts of data at either extreme end can be inconvenient if not nigh on impossible to see.

I'd like an option on the higher end camera where you can select the whole, or virtually the whole of the rear LCD to display a large histogram - so I can see it properly. With this enabled you could then toggle to the picture via the 'info' button or what ever. The extremes of the histogram could blink if the data is beyond the sensor.

This would be very useful to me. Anyone have thoughts on this facility ?

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Canon refurb body

I have read that buying a refurb body (or lenses for that matter) is actually better than buying new. That based on comments that bodies or lenses are returned to Canon as they are defective in some area and that the techs go over the complete unit to bring it up to factory specs.

Any comments on the truth of that matter would be appreciated.

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EOS M Update Information [CR1]

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<p><strong>Same sensor as 70D?

</strong>Another couple of emails have mentioned at least one of the updated EOS M bodies will feature the same 20.2mp APS-C sensor as the EOS 70D. DIGIC 6 is also going to be in both bodies. We’ve reported this before, it just seems we’re getting more confirmations on the topic.</p>
<p>We also got a mention about an EF-M 55-200 IS STM lens coming whenever a body is announced. We have heard various focal lengths for the telephoto zoom that will come to the EF-M mount. A grain of salt on this one.</p>
<p>I receive emails almost daily asking about the possibility of a full frame EOS M body. I do not see this happening for the foreseeable future.</p>
<p><strong>When?

</strong>We haven’t confirmed the reports of an announcement this week, nor have we heard from the usual suspects in that regard. I would think if Canon wants to reinvigorate the EOS M line, then a little bit of fanfare should be expected.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

Indy Car Test Day

For those of you in the Southern California area, the Izod Indy Car Series will be having a test day in Fontana on Tuesday, September 24. The event is free to the public and if you are going to the race in October they are holding a Q&A session with the drivers, too. That should be good for some nice candid portraits.

http://www.autoclubspeedway.com/Tickets-Events/Events/INDYCAR-Weekend/INDYCAR-Test.aspx

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Back button and focus points 5diii

I recently converted to the back button for focus and I am totally hooked. But, I find myself using center-point focus then recomposing almost exclusively, now. So, given my glorious 61points in this camera, should I be even bother to use any more than the center. I know this sounds like a silly question, but I have found myself putting the center on my subject, focusing, then moving and just wonder if I am losing out on some of the camera's capabilities. Just thinking.........

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first try on stars and milky way - any unedited shot samples?

Hi guys,

on the first weekend of october i'm going camping in joshua tree desert in southern california, for the occasion (and my upcoming birthday) i've bought the samyang 14mm f/2.8 and i would love to try to do some stars photography and possibly getting a glance at the milky way.

Having always lived in highly polluted areas I've never tried any kind of "astrophotography" before and i see all these beautiful images around... that maybe are too beautiful to be true without a lot help in post? :)

I was wondering what kind of results you can get as a single shot (raw) straight out of the camera without any post-processing (even just stars, stills no trails), so when i see my images on the camera after the shot i can actually understand if i'm going the right way or not (I am a fan of the good old trial and error...); how many stars are actually visible? how many are just luminance noise for the high iso/long exposure?

Thank you all!

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70-200 f2.8 IS (Ver 1) used or 70-300 F4-5.6 IS L New

I just bought the new 70D which has been great. Im looking for a tele zoom for sports and for portraits and trying to decide with getting a used ver 1 of the 70-200 F2.8 or a new 70-300 L. I like shooting surfing, basketball, water polo and water skiing for sports. Portraits would mostly be outside, with the occasional inside shoot for a family event.

What experience have any of you guys had?

If I was to buy a used lens, is there something I should be looking for other than imperfections on the elements?

Thanks.

Sam

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