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Flash Recommendations for an Existing Light Photographer

I don't currently carry a flash at all, and the only standard one I own is a 380EX, which actually kinda works with my 5D3, but is possibly just a little dated :-\. But occasionally I think that owning something for some discrete fill or freezing action would be nice. So what are some good options out there these days? [Doesn't have to be Canon, or cheap, so long as it plays well with my 5D3]. Thanx in advance.

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EOS-M sharper than 6D?

First post, long time viewer.

I bought a EOS-M in the recently $299 B&H sale. So far I've just used it with my kit 22 f2 lens and am very pleased with the image quality if not the autofocus speed.

Today I tried it out with the EF lens adapter and some of my EF lenses. I was very surprised to find that the M takes sharper images than my 6D! I experimented with both my 24-105 f4 lens and 135 f2. I tried both autofucus and live view focus with the 6D and compared with Flexizone single AF on the M.

Attached are some 100% crops of the pictures I took. What do you think? Is there something wrong with my 6D?

The pictures are in this order, all taken with a 135mm f2 L lens:
EOS-M Flexizone single AF
EOS-6D Autofocus
EOS-6D Live View focus manual

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70D + 6D vs. 5D mark III

With the price of the 6D falling, and the reported price for the soon to be released 70D, would it make more sense to buy both of those cameras versus buying just the 5D III?

With the two cameras, you would have a built in back up if one breaks down, you have the "Reach" of a crop sensor, hopefully great video, low noise at high ISO, fast FPS, etc... Where is the down side to buying two instead of one camera?

Leo

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What lens delivers the strongest background blur?

That is a question I recently asked myself. After some research on Wikipedia I found an easy formula which one can use to calculate the diameter of the circle of confusion at a given magnification:

blur disk diameter =~ (focal length * subject magnification)/aperture number

If a constant magnification is used the lenses can be compared in regard to the strength of their background blur.
I created a quick excel sheet with the common canon prime lenses and calculated the numbers - as you can see I normalized the result to the 50mm f1.4 (this means the 50mm 1.4 delivers a coc radius of 1) since this is a very well known lens.

It seems that if you want really strong background blur you need to go with one of the big whites. I also marked the 200mm f2.8 II which is the black lens with maximum coc diameter (the 70-200 f2.8 II @200 would be the same).

Please note that these numbers are only valid at
subject distance >> focal length (--> "normal" distance - opposed to closeup)
so the mentioned macro lenses could deliver a much stronger blur at maximum magnification.

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Move to full frame (6D) or New Lens?

Hi, I currently shoot with the canon 7d. I have the 15-85 which I use for landscapes, all around lens, and occasionally portraits; the 50 1.8 which I use for shallow DoF and low light work; 100-400 which I use for birds and wildlife; and the 70-200 f4 IS which I use occasionally for portraits and landscapes.

My question is if you had a choice of whether to add the 6D to the line up (for most shooting except wildlife) or buy a fast zoom like the 24-70 2.8 (version 1) which would you do? I like the idea of the 6D because it will create cleaner images, provide better low light performance for family events, and will allow me to use the 70-200 more as I find the focal length either too long or too short on crop (never just right). At the same time, just getting the 24-70 would give me better low light performance and shallow DoF for events where lighting is not ideal.

Part of me says to get the 24-70 first as I would need a standard zoom on the 6D, but part of me really wants to try out full frame. I thought about just getting an old 5Dc to try out full frame, but I figured it was more worth the money to get a current model camera. The 5D3 is currently more than I would like to spend if anyone was thinking to suggest that instead. Thoughts?!?

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Neewer TT560 as master?

I'm a newb with flash photography -- I was given a canon 430exii and a Neewer tt560 along with some cowboy studios remote transmitters/receivers. I can figure out how to trigger both of the speedlites off camera when hooked up to the transmitter on my camera, but what I cant quite figure out is how the heck is the Neewer speedlite used as a master? Can it even trigger the canon 430exii (acting as slave) or can the master/slave function only work with other Neewer tt560 models?

I'm completely confused. Any help would be greatly appreciated --I have been scouring the internet as the manual that comes with the neewer speedlite is pretty lame.

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Bokeh: better f/2.8 wide open than f/1.4 stopped down?

I get tired of the ultra shallow, only one eye in focus, super wide aperture shot. Not to speak heresy, but if you routinely stop down a bright lens to get a workable DOF, are you not better off using a 2.8 lens or even an f/4 and shooting it wide open?

From a bokeh standpoint that is. Not all lenses have rounded aperture blades, but even with them aren't you still seeing little septagons or hexagons, etc. around highlights? Wide open (at whatever aperture that is for the lens) you get circles, at least in the center. You can still blur the background if you use a distant background and get in a bit close to subject, use telephoto, etc.

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MIT study about online reviews & fanboys

Self-Appointed Brand Managers
The second explanation is in some respects the reverse of the upset customers explanation. It is possible that these customers are acting as “self-appointed brand managers”. They are loyal to the brand and want an avenue to provide feedback to the company about how to improve its products. They will even do so on products they have not purchased.9
We can further investigate this explanation by asking: when would a self-appointed brand manager be most likely to write a review? One possibility is that customers are more likely to react when they see a product that they did not expect. If a customer, who has only purchased women’s apparel from the firm, is browsing the firm’s website and notices that the firm now sells pet products (for example), this may prompt the self-appointed brand managers to provide feedback by clicking the button inviting a review. Why would self-appointed brand managers be more likely to write a negative review? The French have a phrase that may help to answer this question: “Qui aime bien châtie bien,” which translates (approximately) to “your best friends are your hardest critics.” We investigated whether there is a relationship between the number of items that customers have purchased and the reviewers’ product ratings. The pair-wise correlation between a reviewer’s average product rating and the number of items purchased is 0.048 (p < 0.01). In other words, the most loyal customers are the most negative reviewers.
10
Prior Units Index: The total number of units of this item sold by the firm in the year before the date of the review. At the request of the retailer we index this measure by setting the average to 100% for the reviews with a prior transaction. We investigate this possibility by calculating the following measures:
Niche Items: Equal to one if Prior Units is in the bottom 10% of items with reviews, and equal to zero otherwise.
Very Niche Items: Equal to one if Prior Units is in the bottom 1% of items with reviews, and equal to zero otherwise.
Product Age: Number of years between the date of the review and the date the item was first sold.
New Item: Equal to one if Product Age is less than 2 years and equal to zero otherwise.
New Category: Equal to one if the maximum Product Age in the product category is less than 2 years, and equal to zero otherwise

In the Table 9 we report the average of each measure for reviews with and without prior transactions. The findings reveal large (and highly significant) differences on all of these measures. Reviews without a
prior transaction are more likely to be written for items that were introduced recently. They also tend to be niche items with relatively small sales volumes. These findings are all consistent with the prediction that customers are more likely to provide feedback on items they had not purchased when they see the firm selling a product that they did not expect to see.

something interesting to read.... i bet it fits many members here.....

http://web.mit.edu/simester/Public/Papers/Deceptive_Reviews.pdf

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A New Flash by Years End? [CR2]

HTML:
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<p><strong>A replacement to the 430EX II?

</strong>We’re told a new flash could be announced before years end, though it wasn’t said whether or not it would be replacing an existing flash or being added to the lineup. The lineup does need a less expensive RT capable Speedlite.</p>
<p>We’re also told that the EOS M lineup will also get a new flash above the 90 EX. I think all it needs is the ability to bounce, not sure why they still make flashes that cant be tilted upwards.</p>
<p>More to come I’m sure..</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>
<p> </p>

Maximus's Cake Smash

shot my son Maximus cake smash for his 1st birthday coming up this Thursday, he's crying on this photo because we took the cake away from him, because he was eating too much of the icing. Any feedback would help on how to get myself better. Shot this with Canon 6D & 85mm f1.8mm lens
f/2.8, 1/250 sec., ISO 1000
I was aiming for 6-6:30pm but he was taking a nap & ended up shooting around 7:45pm which was kinda getting dark, thank god for my 6D low light performance.

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What do you think will be the Shelf life of the EOS 6D ?

Hi,
I was wondering if you could give your opinion on that? ???

On one side, the 6D is a full frame. The life of such products is around 3 years (on average) until now.
http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/cameras/Canon_rumours.html

But on the other side, Canon seems to consider the 6D as a consumer camera.
Marketing, button layout, build quality, fps, SD card, same level of CPS support than APS-C, and so on are not definitively on the pro side.
“the EOS 6D is truly the Full-Frame DSLR camera for everyone.” From canon’s website.

So roughly, my question is?
Will the 6D last at least 3 years or will it be renewed every year (like rebel/XXXD) ?
Thanks to share your ideas.

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Which photographers do you admire or are influenced by?

I picked up a camera because I was interested in the power of photography. I became interested in gear, but really a great image interests me more than a great new innovation.

I've listed a few photographers who's work I admire, would be interested to see who other forum users list.

http://www.martinparr.com/ I admire his cheeky, punchy, observational images. Divisive. To me he is the photographic equivalent of Nick Broomfield or Jonathan Meades.

http://www.oscarmarzaroli.com/ Some of the best known images of Glasgow old meeting Glasgow new (well, then, new) from the old industries and slums to the brave new world of motorways through the heart of the city.
Not a photographer of exceptional vision or talent imho, but he documented a place I know well and love at a time before I could know it.

http://www.rockarchive.com/jill-furmanovsky-photographer.html She documented most of my musical heroes. On stage but also around the bands, personal and intimate. Off-guard. Part of my thinks i should judge such musical heroes on their music, part of me wants to know a bit about them, and that part of me seeks out the images of Jill Furmanovsky.

http://www.colinprior.co.uk/portfolio/ When I dabble in landscape I try to pick a spot that Colin hasn't been to. He sets the benchmark in Scottish landscapes. Nobody else's work will measure up for a given location. His work was over-franchised a few years ago, and the camera club crew seem to want to replicate his every shot (a compliment) but the quality and craft endures. I try (without any great success) to learn from his approach but would never tackle one of his subjects, except for fun.

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Canon Sale?

So for the past couple of weeks, I have been trying to save some money to buy a Canon 16-35 and 70-200 f2.8. I arranged the money so that I would be able to buy the two lenses and two Heliopan ND filters for the lenses.

I got the money arranged two days ago, However when I went on the B&H to buy the lenses, the prices were increases on both lenses. Apparently Canons Sale was over on the 7th of July. All together this increases the total price by $500. I mean I could still buy the lenses but I wouldn't have enough money to buy the filters and it would be $500 spent on nothing.

What do you guys think I should do? Im not in a rush to buy these lenses but it would be good if I could get it by the first week of next month. Do you think Canon will have another sale on these lenses in the upcoming weeks? OR should I just buy the lenses without the filters (How useful would a 70-200 be without an ND filter)?

Thank You Very Much!!!

***

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With the 70D en route... what should the price of a 7D be?

I know the 70D has a better/new sensor and wifi, but I can't imagine the original 7D should be priced less than the initial asking price for the 70D body, which will be $1200 at launch, and probably settle around $1100 after 4 or 5 months with rebates and dealer discounts on packages.

But I'm looking at Craig's List and Amazon and I know a ton of people are jumping ship for full frame with the 6D being an excellent low light camera and the 5D mkiii being better in regards to image quality, low light performance, and while it has a slower shots per second, it isn't a slouch at 6 fps.

The 7D launched with a price of $1700 in 2010 (per Canon price watch, I really don't care if I'm off by a few months), and the price has dropped for a new body for as low as $1100 at one point.

I'm seeing used prices around $850 and even some people selling theirs for around $700. I find it hard to believe that the 7D isn't the preferred option over the 70D. I can people shying away from buying one new for $1200, but I feel the used price for a really good condition 7D should be around $950 or so... unless the people are just wanting to drop their old gear and don't care about the $250 or so they are losing.

Maybe there isn't that big of a difference between $850 and $950, but between $700... it seems like a huge gap.

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The Lumia 1020...final death blow to the Point and Shoot?

I just read some of the reviews on the Lumia 1020. I have to say, from a photography standpoint, I am REALLY impressed. It finally brings the true PureView 808's 41mp sensor, the 6-element Zeiss lens from the 925, and full Xenon flash to a phone pretty much built for photography. Their pro photo software looks rather nice, giving you complete control over all the standard aspects of exposure (i.e. want to do a long exposure and blur people walking by...you can). I love the fact that it has the extended battery "grip" accessory, too.

http://www.nokia.com/global/products/phone/lumia1020


So, does this mark the true end of the point and shoot, and the beginning of full blown photography phones with all the features we *photographers* have come to expect from an actual camera? To date, phone cameras have been geared more towards the instagrammer crowd...the Lumia 1020 seems to be positioned more for pro photographers who want something simpler, but still just as capable, for a handy every-moment alternative to a DSLR.

Is it only me who thinks this?

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Next purchase?

Hello all,
I've been reading this forum quite a bit, and I have to tell you that all the great information I've found has helped tremendously. I decided I wanted to venture out a little further into my photography hobby, and I'm hoping you guys can give me your opinions.

I currently have a 7D (10000 actuations), with a Canon 17-85, a Sigma 70-300 F/4.5, a 50mm F/1.8, and 580EX II. I'd like your advice on which would be the better option. A good portion of my pictures will be portrait, with a mixture of indoor and outdoor (think family pictures)...a good portion lower light. I'm really disappointed with the quality of almost all of my lenses. I've budgeted around $2K.

Option 1: Keep the 17-85, and get a 70-200 F/2.8L IS Mk II. I'd have the long range for candid outdoor photography with tack-sharp focus.

Option 2: Get rid of the 17-85, in exchange for a 24-70 F/2.8L Mk II. Since a larger number of my pictures will be in this range, get a great lens for indoors and close range, while sacrificing on the long range side (since my 70-300 is not a great lens.

Option 3: Get the 24-105 F/4L, and a 70-200 F/2.8L Mk I. Compromise...I get good lenses for each. I keep hearing that the Mk II 70-200 is such a better lens than the Mk I, makes me think I may not be happy with the focus of the Mk I.

Of course, there's always the option of selling my 7D and getting a 5D with an F/4L lens.

Thoughts?

Coronation Gala Concert at Buckingham Palace

This is my daughter leaving the stage. She plays violin with the National Youth Orchestra who were on stage for the entirety of the three concerts. This was the last one:


2Y2A5866-32.jpg by RCARCARCA, on Flickr

EXIF: 5Dmkiii, 24-105 @ 105mm, ISO 4000, 1/400sec, f5.0

There are a lot more on my Flickr set of the concert: http://flic.kr/s/aHsjGQ3ze8

Thanks for looking

Richard

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Lee Filters for Wideangel

Hello guys,

I'm looking to purchase the lee filter system and am confused about what i need.
I'd like to use it mostely with the 16-35 II, so i certainly need a 82mm wideangel adapter.

What i'm confused is that i don't know what i need as a holder, there are some sets available like:

Lee Professional Set,
Foundation Kit,
Lee 100mm push on holder (for the ultra wide-angle, large and medium format photography)

And i suppose the filters are 100-150mm!?

Your help is really appreciated.

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Strange blue in place of black

Hi guys,

I'm very new to video, I'm moving over slightly from a stills background as I've received funding to direct my first short film (of a screenplay I wrote) as a pitch for a feature.
I'm shooting on a Canon 60D, and I have the latest version of Magic Lantern installed. The only Magic Lantern setting I'm using is the cropmarks overlay, so I can see the camera LCD in the cinescope aspect ratio. Everything else outside of the Overlay tab hasn't been touched at all, it's the firmware default.

I'm getting this weird blue where (I assume) there should be total black. I've noticed it on the edge of a bowel, inside a coke can etc. but it's most noticeable when shooting these drawings (as shown below). Since I'm also new to the 60D I don't know if it's an ML issue or an issue with the 60D's settings.

It's not a software issue as the files look like that straight out of the camera, they look like that in Sony Vegas and they look like that after being exported.

However, I do notice that they slightly flicker on the page when the pencil is pressed down. Could this maybe be a reflection issue with the lights I'm using in that location? I'm not using any special lights, they're just the ones that are in the kitchen all the time. The flickering isn't noticeable unless I watch it on my 21inch screen (full screen) or larger.

Here's sample shots of what I mean:

The blue lines:

9lew01.jpg


The flicker of the blue lines: (watch the arm in the drawing)

jsdcbb.jpg


2ugyrh3.jpg


Can anyone offer a little bit of help as to how to get rid of this or what it might be?

(I only notice the colour difference now, that's because the very first image is from the colour corrected final product. And the other two images are SOOC)

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