The FF Sony RX-1 and RX1R is out now. Will Canon have one like this soon ??

I thought just for fun I'd post the top things I'm sick of hearing in the world of photography. Here are some that come to mind:

1. You can shoot better shots with a P&S than a 1Dx if you understand lighting
2. Gear doesn't matter, it's the photographer
3. Well, back in the film days...
4. RAW is a crutch
5. If you get it right in camera you don't need to do post-processing
6. Canon's falling way behind in sales because of the D800 and DR
7. L-glass is ALWAYS better than non-L

That's all I had right now.

Thought of another one:
8. If you have to ask questions about the <insert gear>, then you don't need it.

Here is a little tip that I have been using and it may be helpful to others.

I use a label maker for my equipment for a lot of things because it doesn't mar the finish, and it is neat.

I can label +/- signs for battery compartments that are poorly labeled (pocket wizards etc).
Here is a really cool one. For my 400mm 5.6 l tele, I find that the AFMA for close in work has a different adjustment compared to far away. I calibrated it and I put the figure on the lens hood, so I can quickly change it out as needed. The label is easily changed as calibration changes.

Obviously, not a permanent identification, but that is the point.

I hope this is helpful, and I would be interested if anyone else uses this and if so, there are other uses for it.

sek

Hi everyone-

So, I took my 7D fishing this morning, which had two unfortunate results.

1) I jinxed myself and did not catch any fish, since I was prepared to photograph one well.

2) I slipped on a rock and fell in the river. 7D, on, with 28 1.8 mounted, took a quick plunge.

I figure about 1/2 second in the water, another second later it was switched off, battery out. Wiped down the entire camera using the dry part of my shirt, came home, put it in rice. Now, when it switched off, I did see the "Sensor cleaning", so I know it didn't immediately short. It was also a very clear stream (which probably contributed to fish seeing me and swimming away...). While drying it off, there was 1 drop of water (probably 5-10 uL) on the mirror, but nothing else in the mirror box. CF card and compartment were dry, etc. Battery compartment looked fine- there was one drop on the clock battery that worried me a bit, but not much I can do about it...

So, on the "not much I can do about it" note, anyone have reassuring stories for me? Camera and lens are in a crock pot with a bunch of rice, cover on, and going to stay there at least 5 days no matter what you tell me. But, I'd probably sleep better tonight knowing other peoples' cameras have survived worse...

Also, I've got the camera upside down, because it is a 7d, and has a popup flash. I figure if there's water anywhere, it's in the flash, and I'd rather that drain out, rather than into the camera. But I can't pop the flash open because it's off. And I'm not about to power it up just to pop the flash open.... If anyone has thoughts / insights in that area, I'd appreciate them.

Thanks for helping me through this troubling time!!

-Brian

Hey Forum,
I've been shooting a lot of concerts for a radio station and am about to start working as a 2nd shooter with a wedding photographer, in addition to all the work I do for my high school (I'm 16).

My current gear lineup is as follows:
Rebel t3i/600d
Tokina 11-16 2.8
Sigma 50 1.4
Tamron 24-70 2.8 VC
Canon 70-300 4-5.6 IS

Obviously, the biggest weak point is that 70-300 followed by the t3i. I'm selling a bunch of stuff that should give me close to a $3000 budget for upgrading some gear, so that begs the question: would I benefit more from a 70d + 70-200 2.8 IS II or a 5dIII body?

While nobody knows how the 70d is going to perform, I'm leaning towards that combination, simply because better glass means better images, plus upgrading to the mark III means my lenses get wider so I'd have to use the 70-300 more, which basically defeats the purpose of full frame image quality, especially since the majority of my work is in very low light (meaning I have to shoot it close to wide open).

In any case, let me know what you all think, and if you want to see the work I'm doing, please head over to my blog, http://silvestography.tumblr.com

Thanks!

Currently I've a 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS and a 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS II +1.4 TC II in my kit. Both of these cover the (near) 300 mm focal length reasonably well, but...

I'm wondering if a 300mm f/4 L IS would be a useful tool to add to my lens line-up.

The objective is motion-stopping speed for animal photography (mostly in the zoo) and that 3D 'pop' that seems to be lacking from my 100-400 most of the times.

What are your experiences with these lenses ie would it make sense for me to get the 300 mm prime?

Link Removed by Admin.

Links on this site add to the google rating of the scammer.

pls chekc the prices of the cameras

It seems th BH will no longer be selling the 135/SF:


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/12064-USA/Canon_2516A003_Telephoto_EF_135mm_f_2_8.html?sid=pricewatch


Canon USA lists it as current:

http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/ef_lens_lineup/ef_135mm_f_2_8_with_softfocus

So like the title says, I have been trying to find a wireless remote that works with the N3 connector and/or hotshoe of my Canon 1Ds Mk II.

So far I have tried the following:
[Pixel Pro - had high hopes as it was well rated](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049HCSM8/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), might try it again.

[Aputure 2.4Ghz Trigmaster Radio Remote Flash Trigger and Shutter Cable Release](http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FLC7YC/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1), no the name is not mispelled.

I have the following 3 in my Amazon Wishlist to try in case anyone has experience with them:
* [Opteka 650' Wireless Radio Remote Shutter Release Control](http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Wireless-Shutter-Release-Control/dp/B005ZH2YYI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?...

* [RainbowImaging 100 Meter 2.4GHz Wireless Remote Shutter Release](http://www.amazon.com/RainbowImaging-Wireless-Shutter-Release-Replaces/dp/B004EDMSO0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_...

* [Cowboy Studio Wireless Remote Trigger Switch](http://www.amazon.com/Cowboy-Studio-Wireless-Trigger-RS-80N3/dp/B002X7FSO6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie...

Not looking for anything fancy but would be willing to spend a couple extra bucks if I can get one that will allow for a flash on top of it (plan to get a flash unit sometime).

Please note, I cannot afford to buy the Canon Wi-fi adapter thing, not to mention it has terrible reviews.

Thanks!

I did these tests this evening. I was as careful as possible to keep room lighting the same for each shot.

See the thread about "50mm lenses that don't suck wide-open", which made me get off my butt and do these tests.

Note that the aim for these tests was only to compare lens brightnesses (T-stop) and bokeh, with all lenses wide-open.
The scene is too dark to determine relative sharpnesses.

I tested the Canon 50mm f/1.4 wide-open, both connected and NOT CONNECTED electronically, by rotating lens in body while holding the lens-release button down. Mechanically it is still completely mounted, but the camera cannot communicate with the lens, so does not know what it is, so it cannot "decide" to sneakily increase the ISO.

Canon 5D Mark 3
Manual
t=1/15s, ISO400 (nominal)

Focus was on the same point on the lantern, using live view, magnified x10.


RESULTS:

Dude was right. The "CONNECTED" Canon 50mm f/1.4 image is noticeably brighter, and I took the picture both ways, several times, and the results were completely repeatable. So it seems that the 5D3 DOES sneakily SEEM TO boost ISO without telling you, if it detects that the 50mm f/1.4 lens is connected. When I review the images on the camera, they all say ISO400.

Dude was also right that the Olympus 50mm f/1.2 is significantly brighter than the Canon 50mm f/1.4 wide-open, EVEN brighter than the "CONNECTED" image. That makes me feel slightly better about having dropped just shy of £400 on this (perfect, mint, unmarked) example of this lens, back in Jan. 2010!


Here's the album on FB:

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.4505135767033.1073741834.1849695638&type=1&l=7e5db91bd2

Here are the files on Dropbox, including raw files:

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/rhtr3k0ru902sbr/yMKl0KWANf?lst

The tests I did were:

Zuiko (Olympus) 50mm f/1.8 - Dimmest, as expected

Zuiko 50mm f/1.4 Silvernose

Zuiko 50mm f/1.4 Non-Silvernose (later model) VERY SLIGHTLY brighter than Silvernose

Zuiko 55mm f/1.2 - Has the "biggest" bokeh / OOF blur. NOTE! This is a 55mm lens, not a 50mm one.

Zuiko 50mm f/1.2 This is the brightest of them all

Canon 50mm f/1.4 NOT CONNECTED, because lens was rotated to disengage electronic contacts

Canon 50mm f/1.4 CONNECTED - Should be same, but IS BRIGHTER

Availibility: 21st of October 2013

Hello,

So i use the 17-40 for Landscape photography and i`m not happy with the results, so i m considering the Zeiss 21 2.8 or the 24 II TSE 3.5, i would like to know some opinions and if i will see major result differences with these lens that i mentioned.

Thanks.


Canon 5D2, Canon 7D, Canon 17-40 , Sigma 35mm, Canon 70-200 IS II

Hey all,

Just got my 300 2.8L IS to start my long lens collection. Next one will likely be a 500 when I get the cash together. Needless to say, I'd like to get a gimbal head. What are your recommendations between these 2 brands and any others that I should consider?

Thanks!!!!!

This CNN video is a powerful story about an Egyptian photog who felt his weapon was mightier than the sword. May he RIP.

http://www.cnn.com/video/data/2.0/video/world/2013/07/12/pkg-penhaul-egypt-cameraman-killed.cnn.html

I am an enthousiastic hobby-photograher. I am going on safari in September and am looking for a second body.
I have a 5Dm3 as primary camera and plan to take with me my 24-70 f2.8 ii, 70-200 f 2.8 ii and 300 f4. In addition to that, a 1.4 converter (iii). A large oart of the photography will be in low light and I understood from the camp that 300mm with 1.4 converter should offer enough reach (the latter of course especially on a crop body).
I was hoping that the 7Dm2 would be available on time, but this is not the case.

I have been thinking about the following options:
- 7D, crop, eventually sell afterwards, eventually buy used
-70D, crop, newest technology, less weather/dust resistant, might be useful after the safari as well as relatively simple and small camera with fill-in flash and wifi
- 1Dm4, 1.3 crop, better image quality in low light, weather sealed

- or, the most expensive and probably most worryfree option, buy a 1Dx and eventually sell the 5Dm3 afterwards???

I would appreciate you advice.
Ben

Hi Everyone,

So, I purchased the Sigma 35mm 1.4 a little over a month ago and shot w/it a couple of times, including assisting at a wedding a couple of weeks ago. I noticed there were some off focus/inconsistent focusing issues. So I sent it in to Sigma out on Long Island to have a look. I am told byt the service technician he doesn't find anything wrong w/the lens and asked me to provide some photos of my concerned issues. I did. After which, he said: "From these photos it looks like the camera is slightly back focusing the lens, the micro focus feature of the camera should correct this."

Has anyone ever had to mico focus their camera w/this lens? Or any other lenses? I believe the 5D Mark II settings can remember up to like 99 different lenses/mico focused settings right? I have never had to Micro Focus on my camera so not sure how simple or different it is.

Thanks!

Hey guys

Long time listener, first time caller.

I have a dilemma. I need to decide, and I need to decide pretty soon. I want to buy a compact for my upcoming diving trip. I have a budget of about 1000 - 1500 USD, where 1500 really would mean "I went all out". This budget must include everything, so meaning the compact cam and the underwater housing - maybe even a flash.

So after consulting the interwebs, I narrowed down my choice to just 2 cameras… which is still 1 too many. But I have no idea, how to eliminate one or favour the other.

The cameras are:

Sony RX-100 (mark 1)
Canon G1X

Both cameras fit my budget. On the Canon I could get the Canon Housing - for the Sony, there's a affordable ikelite Housing. Both options would more or less total 1K (I live in Switzerland)

Now… feature wise, I know that some things are more important than others, when it comes to diving pictures and/or video. Unfortunately it seems that both have very strong arguments… I can't decide. Maybe some of you out there have some experience with both of them, or can put some of the features in perspective…

As far as I understand, these are the features that are the most paramount for diving fotography:

- Good battery life (with 700 shots, the G1X doubles the Sony)
- Large Sensor (light is rare. And if I don't have the money to afford a whole flash system, light is vital. So Sensor size might be the most important feature? or am I mistaken?) but then again:
- Wide aperture (RX100 f/1.8 vs f/2.8 wins… meaning more light?)
- BIGGIE: Macro Capability (this is the one that makes it a tie breaker. Macro photography is probably the most important for my diving… and here the G1X is far behind the RX100… 20cm vs 5cm)
- RX100 with double the ISO at 25,600… does that also mean more light in my pictures, when taking pics in sub 15m dives?

as a noob, I used this here to help me weed out the other cams (http://snapsort.com/compare/Canon-G1X-vs-Sony-Cybershot-DSC-RX100)
Until recently it was G15 vs G1X, but now that I've seen the RX100, I think it is just between the G1X and the Sony.

The Sony seems the first choice… but how much more awesome would pictures be with the G1X, in non-macro situation? how much more would the G1X with it's sensor excell?
Or do I overrate the sensor for my situation? I also thought G1X + Housing + Macro Lense… but that would mean the expensive G1X non-Canon Housing + Lense = very expensive. With the sony I could go for the ikelite housing plus a cheap strobe setup, with the motto: better than nothing. For example the Fantasea Nano Storbe at 100 Bucks, or the Intova ISS2000 ISTR Slave strobe around 130USD.

Would love some input from you guys! I'm stuck!

Hi all,

A few weeks ago, I sold my venerable EOS 40D for a used EOS 1D Mkii N.
I was very satisfied with the 40D but when it comes to photograph moving kids... the AI-Servo tracking just shows its limits.

Until a few days ago, I owned only 2 EF lenses : 50/1.8 and 70-200/4L.
With the 40D, I used the kit lens EF-S 18-55 IS for my wide angle needs.

My plan is to buy a used zoom. I just need a few extra months to save up money...

In the meantime, as I'm not afraid (or even ashamed) to attach "amateur" lense on a "pro" camera, I just bought a used EF 22-55/4-5.6... yes, I did it !
I must say that results are better than expected, once processed in LR. Even if this old lens is not listed in "lens profile" (nor in Canon DPP), LR makes a good job, especially in center part of the picture.

My question is now about "walk around" or "standard" zoom lens.
I made a lot of searches on the Internet : 17-40/4L, 24-105/4L, Tamron 24-70 VC or even old EF 24-85/3.5-4.5... waiting a rumored 16-50/4L ? Lens like EF 16-35/2.8L is out of reach...

From your experience, what would be reasonable choice ?
Using my plastic 22-55 (some say that 22mm is more like a 23mm), I find it wide enough so far.
It's actually the "difficult" decision. A friend of mine use a 17-40 on a 1DsII and I must say that 17mm is great on FF camera.
I know that your not in my mind but, your advice and experience would be very appreciated, especially regarding IQ and 1.3x sensor's characterisitcs.

Thank you very much,
Ivan

PS: Sorry for my English which is not my mother tongue.

I currently am a 15 year old who has taken on photography as a hobby. As of now, I own the following: T2i, 24-105 F/4L, 40mm F2.8 Pancake, 55-250mm 3.5-5.6 IS II, 18-55mm 3.5-5.6, a minolta Auto280PX flash and 2 Minolta lenses. I am a bit confused as to whether the 70D would be the ideal upgrade, or possibly holding off to the 7D Mark II!

I take pictures of my friends and RC cars. Currently, with the T2i I can definitely take pictures of people, but I find the camera really struggles with moving subjects. I know the T2i isn't really geared towards sports photography, and in my own experience I found this to be true. While taking pictures of RC cars I can only get about 40% of the shots actually in focus (AI Servo and center point) and it's a bit disappointing.

Here's an example of the RC cars:

IMG_9858 by THGBrian, on Flickr

Here's one that is out of focus:

IMG_9826 by THGBrian, on Flickr

They move VERY fast!

With stationary objects (people) there is absolutely no problem:

Porsche GT3RS by THGBrian, on Flickr

I am looking for something that will be able to get these shots in focus, have better low light focusing, and possibly better low light performance.

I have considered the following:
Don't do anything at all! (Parents would love this! : )
Purchase a few fast primes. (Sigma 50mm f1.4)
Buy a Fujifilm X-E1 due to it's size and low light performance. Then down the road, buy a 7D Mark II or some "upgrade" to my T2i. <--- Most money spent here
Buy a Canon 70D during black friday. (No tax day at two of my local camera stores)
Wait for a 7D replacement



I really like the autofocus and video features that the 70D has (touchscreen!!!), as I like to make videos. However, with the possibility of a new 7D replacement that will only improve on the 70D (without the touchscreen and possibly wi-fi) I am really not sure if I should purchase anything at all! I'm not trying to sound like some rich kid, as I do work to get these items. Maybe I should be grateful that I even own these items and hold off until I really need a camera. Thanks for reading!


If you guys need any more info, please ask!

I need a couple of replacement batteries for my 1D MkIII. Where do I find the best value? I want Japanese cells, not Chinese. I see prices all over the map. I have found several BLI 347 batteries listed. Anyone found the best battery for the money?

Hey all, Im on my second 6d(first one had a dead pixel mid sensor), replacement I took out last night to take some long exposures. I was surprised to see a good amount of what I am assuming are hot pixels as they are not in every shot just long exposures. I had never really seen this a lot on my rebel. Should I be expecting this on a full frame? Or should I be sending this back to give a third one a try? Thanks for the advice.

Last week I sent in both of my Canon 1DX camera bodies to CPS in Irvine, CA. regarding the Canon factory service notice on potential auto focus issues. Today I received both cameras back and upon careful inspection noticed one of the camera bodies had been damaged. The below image shows where the black paint on the body has been completely scratched off near the area of the camera where the neck strap would attach. I have never used a neck strap on either camera, nor has either camera ever been dropped or even bumped into anything. Before carefully packing and shipping the cameras to Canon I meticulously cleaned both bodies and know with 100% certainty that there was absolutely no wear on either 1dx body. I tried calling Canon's CPS number but they are closed for the evening. One last piece to the puzzle, the damaged camera was shipped back to me in a box so small the body its self could hardly fit inside the box. The other 1dx which was not damaged was shipped back at the same time in a separate box literally 4 times the size of the other box. I've attached an image as well.

Any advice on how to deal with CPS when I call them tomorrow morning (they are currently closed) would be greatly appreciated.

Ever since I got my Fuji X100s, all I want to do is roam the city streets of my amazing hometown of Sydney and take photos of things that intrigue me.

Most of my photos are of the homeless, which many people walk by and judge without knowing their stories, thinking that they've gotten there from drug or alcohol addiction, but in fact most of the homeless here in Sydney lived normal lives.
After attending a little seminar on awareness for the homeless, we learnt about a true story of a man, who had a high paying job in a corporate company, a wife and two kids, but then got into a car accident, couldn't get back to work, frustrated that he couldn't provide for his family, which lead to depression, which caused the kids to follow the wrong pathways of drugs and alcohol, which lead to the family breaking up and then in turn the man ending up living on the streets.
Or a girl who's now 24 and living a normal life, but when she was young lived in an abusive household and was forced to take up street life at an early age.
When you listen to these people, it's quite sad what they've been through, so don't judge anyone you don't know.

Be grateful for what you have, take a couple of minutes to check out my photos, please critique, comment on things you like, what you don't like, or tips on improving street photography.
http://elindaire.zenfolio.com/p403951323

Thanks

Hi, I have finally got the money together to get another camera and have decided to go FF. I own a 60d and take mostly portraits of the kids and landscape and other general stuff but as is the case in most families I also take pics of the kids playing sports with their teams. The 60D is not a recognised sports camera but I am happy with the results for the sports stuff with the kids.
My original idea was to buy a 5D3 however recent threads on this forum are giving me pause for thought about the 6D instead. I would normally try and check out the camera in the camera shop as most people would however our local shop won't show the camera with the battery in it or a lens attached and when I asked a question about the ISO they "didn't know about that" (really great sales people!!)
Anyway My question is will the 6D AF match the 9 x type points in my 60D so that I can continue taking the type of shots that I do (well the 10% that is sporting). Also am I reading correctly that the ISO/ noise on the 6D is better than the 5d3?
I am purely amateur and have no intention of trying to be a professional photographer so saving the €1000 would be rather nice for other lenses etc possibly a printer.
Thanks for your time.