Since a number of us got one. I'm really impressed and will shoot something worth posting later today.

This lens gets no love but that’s ok, because I’m IN LOVE with it.

Here are two shots from a climbing trip to Canada last week.

41mp actually..

It's kind of like a D800 (with a zeiss lens) except smaller... just kidding

http://press.nokia.com/2013/07/11/zoom-reinvented-nokia-lumia-1020-arrives/

In preparation for my upgrade to a 5d3 (from a 60D) later this year I'm trying to compile a list of potential prime lenses to get between the 35 and 100mm range. I've already got a 24-105L and will sell my non-L 70-300 to get the L version. Also have a 50mm 1.8 so I'll need to get a 85 1.8 to get my portrait capability back.

Then the question remains: Do I keep the little plastic toy (which never use wider than 2.8 anyways) or just get a pancake (which is actually pretty usable wide open, vignetting aside)? Do I even need a 50? I know the 50mm 1.4 isn't great wide open either and has fragility issues but at least it'll work with the automatic CA corrections in the 5d3 (I shoot RAW+jpeg). The sigma 50 1.4 is...really big for a 50mm prime, has AF quality control issues and won't work with auto CA corrections. Rumor mill has it that the sigma 50 is due for a rebody to the "art" line they've got going now but probably won't get an optics refresh... Oh yeah, the 50mm 1.2 is a no thanks I'll keep the money. Everything 50mm seems to be a compromise and you'd think after so many decades of people using such a prolific "normal" lens the designers would have perfected the formulas by now.

Do I even need a 50?

I have a 60D. And I have a reasonable set of lenses in my kit for outdoor use where I shoot most of the time.

I'd like to add a lens for indoor use -- things like family & friend gatherings, indoor events (graduations, arts, etc.). I generally end up not being really up close to the subject. And generally don't use a tripod.

One key factor is that I have a tremor in my hand. So far my experience with non image stabilized lens without a tripod has been pretty poor in terms of getting a nice sharp photo.

So for indoor use, I've been considering these options:

- Canon EF 100L 2.8 IS Macro
- Sigma 17-70 2.8-4 DC OC HSM Macro
- Tamron 24-70 2.8 Di VC USD

I've also thought about the Canon EF-S 17-55 2.8 IS USM, but am afraid it doesn't have sufficient range.

Any thoughts/recommendation about these lenses for this situation? Or other lenses to consider? Or other factors to consider?

Thanks in advance!

i sometime send images to our local newspaper for the "readers images" column.

now someone got back to me today and asked if they can use an image for a 2014 calender.
it´s a calendar about local motives around the region where i live.

they normaly sell 1500-2000 of these calendars for 8,90 euro.

of course i feel flattered and i would even give them the image for free.
but i read so much about photographer should not work for free and how this undermines the value of photography.

so what would be a fair compensation?

Hi guys,

I'm interested in both lenses but just curious about the difference in IQ @ 200mm between the prime and the zoom. How do these lenses stack up at 200mm?

I could get the prime and a 16-35 II for the same amount of money as the 70-200.

IS is not a deal breaker coz I'm old school type, shooting from a tripod.

Cheers ... J.R.

I have just moved continent, from Asia back to Europe. We've been home for just about a month now and I have barely touched my camera since. As my identity here indicates photography is a hobby, not my profession. I normally like portraits and street/travel.

Before we moved back I showed my pictures at a local gallery which was great fun, I even sold a few prints. I spent a lot of time preparing that show and shooting and shooting to get enough material. Maybe I got exhausted from that or maybe it is like a journalist friend of my said the other day: 'Transition kills creativity'. Maybe I have higher demands on myself now and am afraid to take bad pictures.

I hope to get it back soon enough though. I just wanted to share this with you guys here. Any thoughts of course are welcome. Do you lose inspiration sometimes? What do you do to get it back?

Hi All,

I'm looking to save up to get the 5D Mark iii, but have a few questions.

1) how do I determine which camera is of which 'batch' of production since there has been various issues...e.g light leaks?

2) will the 'newest batch of production bodies' already have the most recent firmware updates (as of production)?

3) what other mechanical or firmware flaws should I pay attention to?

Thx!!

Hi All,

I currently shoot Motorsport with the 7D (and hopefully soon the 7D2) Coupled with the 70-200 F4 IS.
I am looking into a second lens, which will also be mounted to a crop.

I'd like a different sort of fast aperture, different perspective. Ergo,
Canon 85 f/1.8
Canon 100 f/2.8 IS
Canon 135 f/2
Canon 40 f/2.8

Pro's, Con's, and advice in general.

Has anyone used these to shoot Motorsports?

This topic has been moved to Lighting.

http://www.canonrumors.com/forum/index.php?topic=15771.0

I shoot lots of weddings and events and I've been rocking two cameras. However, with FF bodies, flashes and the massive lenses, I'd like to hear recommendations and ideas to hold the two cameras at once in the best/most secure way possible. I'm a little leery about the plate attachment idea that most of the dual strap options have, so if you have battle stories, I'd really appreciate hearing.

I've noticed that using two straps, with one camera off to the side so it doesn't collide with my primary camera, if I grab for the secondary one, I've got to re-arrange straps just to make the viewfinder reach my eye. Ideas?

Thanks in advance!

Oh, and here's the one I was looking at:
http://www.amazon.com/Opteka-Carrier-Harness-Holster-Cameras/dp/B00746O3X8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1373496233&sr=8-6&keywords=dual+camera+strap

http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Publications/DxOMark-Reviews/Nikon-AF-S-Nikkor-500mm-and-600mm-f-4G-ED-VR-lens-reviews-legendary-performers-in-the-range/Nikon-AF-S-NIKKOR-500mm-f-4G-ED-VR-fights-off-both-Canon-and-Sony



When you put a d600 on the nikon 500,
http://www.dxomark.com/index.php/Lenses/Compare-Camera-Lenses/Compare-lenses/%28lens1%29/1174/%28lens2%29/393/%28lens3%29/891/%28brand1%29/Nikkor/%28camera1%29/834/%28brand2%29/Canon/%28camera2%29/795/%28brand3%29/Sony/%28camera3%29/831

Hey Gents,

I will open my first post on this great forum with a question.

I just received a brand new 16-35L II today. I tested the 16-35 on my old 20D body (I will not be using it on that body, don't worry!!) and when I compared the lens to the 10-22 the DOF on the 10-22 was SO much greater at same aperture. I don't understand why DOF on the 16-35 is not the same when used on same body. I understand the DOF being much different on my full frame vs. cropped, but its exactly why I used my old camera do a lens comparison. Wanted to see how the new L held up against the old 10-22. I can post the comparison pics if anyone needs to see.

Thanks,

Mike

Received my 6D advertised with "100% Brand New Canon USA Model with Canon USA Warranty" and also "never been used, not refurbished not grey market." Well it did not include a warranty, and the agent on the phone admitted that sometimes they ship cameras that don't have warranties. Buyer beware.

ADORAMA is the BEST. No questions, discussions.

Do you know that Helen sleeps in shifts to cater to her world wide clients because of the time difference?

Hats off to her. (Yes, I do wear a hat at times. Check my photo in the publications. LOL.)

http://greypartridgefilms.com/wp-content/pdf/Cottars-Terrascape.pdf

Hi guys,
atm i'm looking for a 70-200mm-lens. And man, the new Canon 70-200mm 2.8 II is great, but expensive as well. So, i took a look at the Tamron 70-200mm... and was a little bit surprised about the zoom ring. It is dwarvish like on a 24-70mm-lens - compare it to the zoom ring of the canon version. And it is so far away from the camera body. The whole system of camera+lens feels somehow unbalanced.

What do you think about the zoom ring of the Tamron? It is as disturbing for you as for me? Or haven't you even determined it?

After 4 years using Canon gear i am thinking of selling all my stuff and switch over to Nikon to get better sensor performance. The lenses of Nikon are not as good as Canon's but with the Nikon sensor the (DSLR+Lens combi) scores are much better. "It's the combi that makes the picture"

What do you all think?
Keep waiting till Canon gets up (again) with Nikon?

I think this can take a long time... Maby never... Or are there any rumors canon wil get back on top soon?

Kind of neat, it can blend multiple exposures into a RAW file.

http://gdlp01.c-wss.com/gds/5/0300011965/01/eos70d-im-en.pdf

Also, remote shutter with a cellphone! Not just shutter but a whole live view.
http://web.canon.jp/imaging/eos70dshootingguide/style/index.html

Hey, I stumbled across the new crops on thedigital picture

It looks a lot better than the older OS version

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=844&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=5&API=0&LensComp=803&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=5&APIComp=0


However, I do wonder if maybe TheDigitaPicture had a bad copy of the older version? or that he possibly had a bad copy ?, Midframe to corner the new S version looks really really good compared to the older one

at 3.2 the difference is even bigger
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=844&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=5&API=1&LensComp=803&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=5&APIComp=1

Actually the new Sports version @ f3.2 looks about as good as the canon 300 f2.8 IS @ f2.8
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=844&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=5&API=1&LensComp=249&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0

Which is quite an accomplishment for a zoom .....

With teleconverters(1.4) its also looks good , if you stop down 1 stop
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=844&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=6&API=3&LensComp=249&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=3


The older version with TC's looks a bit better in the center when shot wide open, but again mid frame and corners the new version looks really really good.
That it almost matches the old 300 f2.8 IS really makes me crave for this lens, and as soon as the price drops a bit I will hopefully add it.

I had been thinking about possibly going for the 200-400 1.4 , but this new information has confirmed that I might be better (and even less expensive) off with the 120-300(with sometimes 1.4converter) from sigma and the 300 2.8(sometimes 1.4/2.0 converter) from canon, on two different bodies.

Which gives a lot of versatility as well, and when used correctly could give equal or better results than the 200-400.

Some of my thinking based on the crops

@300mm f4 (sigma / canon 200-400)
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=844&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=5&API=2&LensComp=764&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=2&APIComp=0

@300mm 2.8 and f4 ( canon/canon)
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=739&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=764&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=2&APIComp=0

@420 f4 /400mm canon 200-400
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=739&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=1&API=1&LensComp=764&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=4&APIComp=0

@420 5.6 sigma, 400 f4 200-400
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=844&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=6&API=3&LensComp=764&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=4&APIComp=0

@600mm 6.3 (3002.8) , 560mm 6.3(200/400)
http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=739&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=2&API=3&LensComp=764&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=5&APIComp=2


If the budget was lower and only 1 lens possible, the Sigma still looks pretty good, the only thing where it really misses is @ 600mm, The results don't look promising.

Already had such a thing in my mind when I saw the price of the 200-400, but as I like to shoot wildlife, it is such an appealing lens , hopefully I can stay strong and stay away from it

Budget wise, the 200-400 is 11K here, got the 3002.8 IS II for 4800, if the 120-300 price drops to 3k,
That would still be over 3k under the price of a 200-400 and gives 120-300 2.8 , 420 f4 - 600 6.3, which is also quite versatile, the thing to train for is F1 style 'tire changes ', get those converters changed rapidly when needed.

I am curious if there are any people who have purchased the 120-300 S already and could post some samples of it?, do your findings back the digitalpicture crops up ?

Just saw the SX280 has it..Why isn't the 70D using it?

I really just want to upgrade for autofocus, so anyone that is familiar with the 7D's system, how good will 70D be compared to 50D?

With the announcement of the new 70D and it being a plastic body/not weather sealed, I'm inclined to go the route of a 7D. With that said, I might be interested in a used 7D while we all wait for the 7D mkii timing/details.

My question is with regards to shutter count. Is there a specific number of shutter activation that I should be wary of with a used 7D body? 15k? 30k?

Thanks!

After importing photos from this weekend's trip, I saw that quite a few were front-focused. Sure enough, my 5D III was set to -8 AFMA for the camera, and in fact this was shown on the full-info playback if I had been more attentive. The problem is, I didn't set it! I looked back at all the images on the memory card, and saw where I was shooting the same scene with the same lens (100 2.8 macro, no AFMA configured), and in one shot there is no AFMA shown, and then the next shot, taken less than a minute seconds later, it's there and it stays there for subsequent shots.

Interestingly, it seems that although this was a "body" AFMA setting, it's not being shown in playback for all lenses. A lens that had AFMA configured only showed the lens value (I'm not sure how the single AFMA number in playback is determined when there's both body and lens adjustments - does it pick one or do a sum?), and other lenses showed 0. I reset the body adjustment back to 0 but now I'm paranoid that it will happen again.

Has anybody heard or seen this happen?