this is my 7D with a tameron 10-24.
why is the focus so far off?
does my camera hate this lens?




File Name: IMG_1574.jpg (Edit)

File Size: 694 kb - 1875 x 1250

Camera Make: Canon

Camera Model: Canon EOS 7D

Date/Time: 2012:11:20 11:21:28

Resolution: 1875 x 1250

Flash Used: No

Focal Length: 10.0mm (35mm equivalent: 16mm...

CCD Width: 23.04mm

Exposure Time: 0.0050 s (1/200)

Aperture: f/3.5

ISO Equiv.: 2500

Whitebalance: Auto

Metering Mode: pattern

Exposure: Manual

Exposure Mode: Manual

I'm new to CR and I know people have asked this question a lot but every post I've looked at fails to answer the basics

I'm budget conscious but will spend the extra buck if it will make a difference. I currently have an old rebel, which doesn't really do much but was a good starter DSLR. I now want to upgrade. I am a journalist and am looking to shoot photos and videos in various contexts. I was settled on the 60D honestly because it sounds professional and because I found a good deal on the body. I did come across the t4i, which some people say is an upgrade from the 60D despite still being a rebel. Here are some of things that matter to me:

1)I hear the 60D is sealed against bad weather. Does this matter and is the t4i sealed as well?
2)Auto focus on video? Do both of these cameras have that?
3)I heard that the t4i is new and thus there could be things wrong with it that Canon will fix later on. Does this matter?
4) I'm a petite girl and I know the t4i is lighter. I'm confortable with the heavier 60D, but is weight a big factor when shooting for a while?
5) Battery life, LCDs, is the touch screen a good thing? Anyone use it?

This is probably not the place but also dont know much about lenses. Can anyone recommend good, not too expensive, zoom lens and standard lens?

Thank you!

Hi... I have a 24-105 for two years now and yesterday the red ring just broke off. Just came off for no reason. Didn't drop the lens or camera. I took the camera out of my camera bag to shoot and noticed something out of place. Looked at it closer and it was the red ring. It's made of hard plastic.

Any ideas of how to get another red ring?

Actually in France, we can order the 6D (fnac.com - avaibility announced 4 to 12 days) with 3 different lenses :

40mm f/2.8 STM pancake 2279.90 €
24-70 f/4 L IS macro 3349.90 €
24-105 f/4 L IS 2899.90 €

Good day, i have a little flash question...tried testing but still not convinced!

So I have 3 X 600EX-RT (all configured on radio transmission)

1st one is on the camera body acting as a master
2nd one is slave GROUP A
3rd one is slave GROUP B

Question: When in setup like this...Is the master considered in any of the groups? or does it act on it's own?
meaning if I play around with the master flash exposure does it affect cameras on group A and B?

regards

Before I knew better I bought the 120-400 OS following advice from one of the magazines,this lens has never worked properly giving milky pics with ghostlike halos around subjects,an allover softness which I liken to a Doris Day filter,funnily enough it turns out quite sharp and clear portraits on my friend's 5DmkIII.Has anyone come across a fix to get this lens to work on the 7D,have tried the AF adjust to get the focus to work,still has milky images.It turns out slightly more acceptable images on my 450D but still with a Doris Day filter

So I am a 7 year user of Nikon, I had invested into a lot of nice glass, and truth be told, I loved a lot of aspects of my Nikon gear, but over the years I have started to do a more video, and less photography. I finally cracked and decided to get the 5D Mark III because of its insane low light capabilities, and because of the clear dedication canon has to making DSLR's that can produce brilliant looking video.

So I am selling all my nikon glass since I need AF still for weddings.

Now... The dilema....

I am planning on getting a 85mm 1.8, a 50mm 1.4, but I cant decide which wide lens to get for when I am using a Glidecam or for landscapes. I am interested in the 20mm 2.8 because of the aperture, and the 17-40mm f/4 because of the extra wide end of the lens and a little more versatility. I know a lot will say that I should do the 16-35mm f/2.8 since it has both a wide aperture, and the wide end of the lens, but unless I some one can give me compelling reasons why I should spend an additional $800 for the lens I don't know if its an option.

Canon's road through the photography world has become very bumpy, and I think many people have gotten lost.
Please help the community, and comment, add, or correct.

Does anyone have any insight into what steps are taken by Canon to refurb a 7D? I do suppose it depends on the condition of the item, but specifically, I am wondering if I should expect a 'new' shutter (i.e. low shutter count) and a new battery. Also should I expect that a refurb could come with cosmetic wear and tear marks (i.e. worn dial, scratches etc)?
Prices are looking good on the Canon site and it may be time to consider one if I can be assured of what I am getting.

Thanks.

Hello all,

I have just picked up a new 600 EX-RT as my first and only speedlight, after playing with ETTL and Manual mode; i have figured something strange ( or just i am just a beginner with speedlights and didn't understand it well yet). It is the ZOOM VALUE showed on the flash's LCD, in ETTL with my 24-105 it just work fine,but when i put on 100L it keep showing 80 not 100, even in Manual there is no 100 only 80 or 105, is it normal ??

i have read in the user manual that is manula mode i should keep the zoom little wider than the actual value of the lens to spread the light more....

Thanks for ur help

Can't decide whether to wait or go for t4i... could the t5i be that much better? in noise dont care for more resolution.

The 1D Mark IV is great wildlife camera - the 1.3 crop works greater with long lenses. Plus 10 FPS is excellent for capturing action. Any hope for a newAPS-H sensor?

http://www.digitalrev.com/product/canon-eos-6d-body/MTAwMTQ2MQ_A_A

Rumour via CanonWatch:

http://www.canonwatch.com/here-it-is-canon-eos-6d-on-sale-at-digitalrev-2460e2300/

Hi all,

I've had my 5D3 since May. I've read and read...been shooting....etc.

But I do think I could really benefit from some kind of formal training....a photography class. I've been searching around in my area (New Orleans), and I"m not really found anything that seemed good, reputible...etc.

I've been trying to see if one of the local community colleges had a course I could audit..etc...but so far no luck.

What would ya'lls suggestions be, for looking around to find someone to give me training on all the basics, so I could get an organized education on the basics of the balance of ISO, aperture and shutter speed....depth of field, shooting backlit subjects, etc....

I've figure out a lot, but I'd really like to have a course in it...especially with regards to digital....to make sure I understand everything and maybe see if some concepts I've not known about play into it all too?

I'd really like a human led class....with assignments so I could bring in pics, and have them critique'd and suggestions on what did and didn't work with settings, composure...etc.


Thanks!!

cayenne

Hi all,
Does anyone know how to repair/disguise brassing on a F1n? (actually on a AE-FN finder)
I’m also wondering if there would be anywhere (UK) that could put a new finish on it cheaper than just getting a ‘new’ clean one.

This is NOT for selling on!

Any help/suggestions most appreciated.

Hi,

The title says it all.

Cheers

Various websites are saying the 6D sensor will actually have an advantage in low noise at high ISO vs. the sensor on 5D3.
I have an itchy trigger finger with all the $2500 give-aways on the 5D3. If the 6D were really going to stay at or around $2100.00, it would seem like a slam dunk for buying 5D3, UNLESS the new sensor really is better in low light... I realize the AF seems to have been deliberatively crippled (and overly-so!), but for shooting portraits and candids and casual soccer of my kids, I really don't need the pro athlete or bird-in-flight AF.

Plus, heck, the replacement for the 7D (7D2?) could have a wildly better sensor?

What do CR folks think of this?

I should say you can see my equipment below my name. I shoot portraits and candids of my 7-year old and 6-y-o and my infant. They do/will play some peewee soccer, but nothing challenging for another 6-8 years max! I've never met a bird who would pay fair value for an excelent portrait at 1000 yards, so I don't need too incredible an AF capability.

I swear, this is the hardest, most difficult thing to get used to.

So, if you have it set up with EOS-Utility, which seems to be the most simple way to synch the computer and the camera, all seems okay.

Then, when you walk away from your wifi zone, or shut the computer off, you have to manually shut off the camera's WIFI, or it blinks red, eating batteries -- ANNOYING.

Then, the next time you want to wifi, you have to go through the connection menus to establish wifi again, making you wonder WHY THE HECK you ever wanted to use the wifi, and didn't instead just rip the card out and put it in to a card reader.

In short, there's no plug-n-play AT ALL with this device, nor is there any auto detection of anything -- sort of like the GPS card, which if it can't find GPS, just blinks forever (say, you're indoors), eating battery, instead of just cycling off.

Maybe I'm using these devices wrong, but they're really not "professional" level, or even "current" level with today's technology or useability standards -- they're just plain annoying instead, making you not want to use them in the future.

also, the manual for the wifi adaptor jumps around, making 4 of the 5 connection methods virtually impossible to follow -- again, why macs gained so much, and PCs failed so much -- nobody wants to become a pseudo-expert in internet connectivity to make the pro equipment to work properly -- that should be automatic in the included software -- instead, they just want the stuff to work.

Here are some photos of Grace Potter and the Nocturnals at the Dallas House of Blues on 11/10. Since they do not allow "pro gear" in the venue, I was forced to shoot with the G12 and raw. They have been down sized for the posting. There is actually more detail than these files represent. If you have any G series concert pics, please share.

My wife and I are heading off to Death Valley tomorrow and would like a few pointers from those with experience of the area.

My plan now is to head to the racetrack tomorrow afternoon and stay for sunset and some star pictures at night. I don't have a ton of experience with star pictures or light painting, but would like to try both. I plan on using a Rokinon 14 mm f2.8 for the night pictures. Is it possible to use a flash in a 30 second exposure to get one of the sailing stones in the frame or am I limited to using a flashlight--if so is an LED one okay?

Also, I am wondering if Zabriskie Point or Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes are better for sunrise. We will only be there for one sunrise, so I have to choose one or the other. Would the sand dunes be okay for photos midday?

Thanks for your help!

Nice deal on mark iii...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EOS-5D-Mark-III-Camera-with-EF-24-105L-IS-Lens-Speedlite-600EX-RT-/390502525737?afepn=5335869999&campid=5335869999&PID=1225267&pt=Digital_Cameras&hash=item5aebc3ab29

If you shoot a digital camera, Its possible through this mans research. Its very sad but his legacy lives on in all our cameras.

http://www.dpreview.com/news/2012/11/21/former-kodak-scientist-bayer-filter-inventor-bryce-bayer-dies-aged-83

I moved up from a Rebel XSi to a 5DmkII about a year ago. I had planned on keeping it around for a second body, but so far it's just been sitting in the drawer with little to no use. I figured I might as well unload it on somebody to start my fund for my next L lens.

How do I go about pricing this stuff? I've got the body, the kit lens, a couple of batteries, USB cord, even the book (I never read it). I would think it would appeal to somebody looking for a good entry level dslr kit who doesn't want to pay the going rate for the current Rebel kit at CostCo. I've looked around a little on eBay, but there seems to be a pretty wide range of prices there. Any thoughts on how to go about this? Thanks in advance for your advice.

I am seeing big discount, i.e. 5d3 or 1dx, from the unauthorized dealers (sold on Ebay) vs. the authorized dealers (B&H, Adorama, etc.)

What are the differences or consequences if I was to buy from the unauthorized as oppose to the authorized dealers?

Not tested yet...

Paperwork says - tried to adjust AF unit, ended up replacing AF unit, shutter/focus button, main dial, and CF card slot assembly.

Jeeze thats a LOT to replace!!?? Never took a "non-testing" shot with the camera... going nuts getting it working.

Problem was - it couldn't focus at either close or far without radical (-15 or +15 depending on near or far) AFMA.
Also the camera would fire bursts on single shot, and... the lenses would not "drive", they'd be out of focus, the focus light would confirm "in focus" but the shutter would not release. Canon says thats due to a faulty CF card slot assembly. They did a nice write up on it.

We'll see how they did in a little bit...