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The best kept secret/ deal in mirrorless cameras...

Is the Pentax K-01. And I'm not even joking.

I just recently picked one up because the prices are crazy low. <300$ USD low. But they are now discontinued, so fading into oblivion.

Why?
• Price is nice
• This camera is actually WAY more attractive in person (purchased the white model)
• Build quality is great (except for flappy side cover)
• It has the same sensor as the Pentax K-5 & Nikon D7000!?
• Great focus peaking
• Can use all K mount legacy lenses! It's fun to find old manual film lenses and use em on this body
• Pentax also has some really cool "L" lenses of their own... Limited. These things are sexy (but expensive)
• In body IS
• Pentax is so NOT trendy right now that they are cool :)

Anyone else?

Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?

Images to follow.

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New Wide Angles Lenses in 2013 [CR2]

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<strong>Announcements in the fall</strong>

We’re told that two new wide angle zooms for full frame will be coming from Canon in the next 6-8 months. At least one of them could be announced in Q4 of 2013.</p>
<p>One of the lenses will be the 14-24 f/2.8L, that will complete Canon’s run of lenses covering 14mm to 560mm.</p>
<p>The other will be a replacement to both the 16-35 f/2.8L II and the 17-40 f/4L. We’re told one of the configurations in test is an EF 16-50 f/4L IS.</p>
<p>This comes from a source that has been correct in the past, although timing is always hit and miss with Canon lenses.</p>
<p><strong><span style="color: #ff0000;">c</span>r</strong></p>

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6d VS 5DIII

I'm starting my business as a photographer, and i am trying to decide whether to buy the 5dIII or the 6D. it's a ~1,500$ difference..

I currently have:
T1i
50mm 1.4
70-200 IS 4
(and that 18-55 kit lens..)

the T1i will serve as a second/backup body for now..

I'd be shooting mostly events and portraits, newborns, and.. KIDS. Occasional action (beside the action packed kids...).

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PHOTO RIGHTS IN CANADA (RECENT)

I get a message after a event shoot...

"Also, my understanding is that when we hire a photographer for an event, photo shoot etc. that we own the rights to the photos, as we may want to use them in promotional materials etc. "


I'm here in Canada let me know I thought we don't loose our rights unless we actively give them away. I thought in general its used in good faith and if they would want to go on long runs of print material or the image becomes Iconic for them maybe talk about rights/ a per usage cost.

thanks folks for wading in.

chris

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AFMA - Is is really necessary?

I am semi-pro and use a 5D mark III body and I have recently upgraded my Mk 1 lenses to the 24-70mm f2.8L II and 70-200mm f2.8L II.

I have never bothered with any AFMA and the mark II lenses do look sharp - even in 100% crops, but it has always niggled in my mind that they "could" benefit from some AFMA.

Should I be doing it and, without buying a calibration kit, what is the easiest way to do AFMA?

I have heard a method where you tether the camera to a PC and use the EOS tool to do it - this looks reasonably easy.

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Advice on which lens to upgrade/replace/add

Saved up enough for a 70-200 f2.8L IS II. Initially I thought I would replace my current 70-200 f2.8L (non IS) with the mark II. But now I am confused which lens to upgrade/replace/consolidate. I like to travel light, and given my travel habit (with family most of the time) I usually take around 2 lenses, a medium tripod, 1x ND filter and a remote trigger.

Travel kit (these two lens combination worked really well for me so far)
16-35 f2.8L II - Landscape
70-200 f2.8L - Landscape/portrait

Family & friends events kit
24-70 f2.8L (have not tried any other lens combination yet)
580 EX II

General walk-around
24-70 f2.8L
50 1.8 II

I would say all my lenses get almost equal amount of usage in a year, and I am pretty happy with these glasses. I guess I am trying to find out which one to upgrade first, or maybe add a prime. At one point I was thinking maybe get the 70-200 f2.8L IS II and a 1.4x Extender first. So my question is, if you were to upgrade one glass from the list, which one would you replace first. Also, if you were to add a glass (for e.g. travel, family events, walk-around, indoor portrait) to the list, then which would one would you consider? Hope I made sense, and thank you for your recommendation and advice.

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Which body/lens combo for this event?

My friend asked me to shoot his friend's wedding reception event. I don't have much details yet, but I understood it's some casual-ish indoor event, couple hours.

So my gear:
5D3, 7D
Lenses: 24-105, 70-200 2.8 IS II, Sigma 14/2.8 and Sigma 50/1.4
Flash: 430EX

How should I go there? Most likely I'm thinking to bring both bodies, instead of swapping lenses on the 5D. I'm kinda leaning towards 5D3 with 24-105 and 7D with 70-200. Then also I should steal/buy/borrow another flash so I can use one on both.

Or any other approach that would work?

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When out & about, how do y'all respond to gear small talk?

So I have a 5d mkiii and when I pair that with a 70-200 is mkii, it draws quite a bit of attention. But people don't have anything interesting to say... it is always like, " that's some camera." I want to respond that they should look in my pants if they really want to be impressed. but no, I just say thanks.

I love talking about gear and I really love talking about the four year journey it has taken me to get here. but nice camera is on par with, some weather, huh? it is vapid and lacks depth.

so are y'all polite and say thanks, or do y'all have a funny line or just ignore em... just curious.

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1DX Image Quality

I know most of you will be calling me crazy for saying I don't like the image quality on the 1DX. When I shoot with that camera I see no detail whatsoever in the image. The images appear to be in focus and the exposure is perfect but the images when zoomed in have no detail at all. No matter what I did I couldn't get any of the images to come out tack sharp!

I noticed today Canon is recalling allot of 1DX models because of a focusing issue do you think that's whats causing the degraded image quality?

I returned the 1DX and got another and had the same issue and ended up returning it again and got a 5D Mark iii in my opinion it's insanely sharp and the best image quality I've ever seen. My only issue with the 5D Mark iii is the shutter sound, it is very annoying but I'm trying to get used to it.

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100L vs. 135L

I'm currently in the market for a telephoto L lens, but stuck between these two. I've never owned nor shot either lens so that's my biggest issue. Here's the question; which one should I buy? I shoot cars so I'd like to have the perfect 16:9 aspect ratio from a distance, but also get more up close if needed. The 100L will basically knock out two birds with one stone due to the extremely small focus distance, but then the 135L has been crowned the king of the L lenses. Which decision should I make? Your help is appreciated!

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Marco Equipment for Baby shots

Hi everyone,
I'm enjoying my 6D very much, especially for taking pictures of our new born, seems to be the perfect camera for that. I have had some trouble with taking nice pictures of the hands and feet because I have trouble filling the frame with my 50 1.4. The 28-135 is doing somewhat better, but not by much. The closest I can get is still too far away. Soooo, what can I get to make it better?

1. There are extension tubes both from canon and other manufacturers.
2. I saw a kind of filter that was basically a magnifying glass, not sure what it's called.
3. A 100 2.8 macro (not sure wether L or non-L, yet) is on my wish list as both a portrait lens for the Ff I have now and some macro stuff I have been wanting to try out. Just wanted to get a better standard zoom first, but might be flexible if options 1 and 2 aren't good.
4. Any other cheap or otherwise useful lens?

Which would be the most cost efficient or best way? Do options 1 and 2 offer significant IQ advantages over shooting with my 50mm and cropping (what I do now and obviously the most cost efficient...)?

Thanks!
RadioPath

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Any comments on the 300mm f2.8 IS mk1 and 2x mk3 TC?

Have any of you tried the above combo?

I currently have the Kenko 2x Pro 300 DG (red dot) which is okay for the money (cost about £110) but images aren't quite as crisp as I'd like so I don't use it that often. Can any of you comment on the sharpness of the 300mm with the mk3 converter or post images? Also, is the AF speed still acceptable to you? I'd be using the combo for airshows or birds in flight etc.

Whilst I'd rather have the 500mm f4, I'm thinking of the cheaper option first! If I got the mk3 TC I'd probably also buy a Wimberly Gimbal head too.

Any suggestions are appreciated.

Body is a 5D3.

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SILENT SHUTTER - 6d, 5dMkiii - Any disadvantages (aside of FPS)

Replaced my 5dmkii with a 6d. One of the nice features is the 'Silent shutter' feature.

But are there any disadvantages with using this? I believe the frame rate is reduced, but I didn't buy the 6d for that, and in single shot mode, it's not going to be an issue.

I can see a nice clear 'click' sound might be ideal in studio work. But for travel or street photography, any reason why I shouldn't leave it on silent shutter continuous shooting mode all the time, apart from when i might want max FPS?

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Sekonic Light Meters: Which one to get? Features? Or another brand?

Hello all,

I was watching some great classes last week on Creative Live...special series on lighting.

I saw some great speakers using light meters, and I think I'd like to get one. They all seemed to be using various models of Sekonic, so I started looking at them.

I can't seem to figure out what makes one model more desirable than another and what is setting the price point on each...

I'm guessing they all meter light similarly...you put in a couple of variables, ISO, shutter speed maybe, and wham, you get your settings.

But what else are they doing?

Also, I'm seeing what I'm guessing are older models that are all manual dials...newer ones seem to have touch screens. At first I like the touch screen, however, I was thinking that actually might be MORE difficult to operate with one hand (camera or flash in other, etc)...I'm constantly fumble fingering my iphone for instance, and that might be a PITA on a meter I'd think.

Thoughts on this?

I have a canon 5D3, and am starting with a collection of two 600EX-RTs....what would be the best meter for the money?

I don't mind spending some cash, if I have to wait and save for the best one I need that's cool, I prefer to save and buy the best I can get right off to bat, rather than a cheaper one, then find I want something else..etc.

Are there other comparable brands?

So, if ya'll could help on what matters and what to look for feature-wise in a light meter..I'd certainly appreciate it!!

Also, I'm guessing these would be helpful for video with my 5D3...or is that something special to look for in a meter?

TIA,

cayenne

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5d Mkii - How to remove user copyright info - WITHOUT EOS UTILITY!!

Got a 5d Mkii - replaced with 6d - Looking to sell the 5d.
USB on the 5d seems to have failed. Tried 3 Win 7x64 machines, different leads, never shows up. Sometimes when you plug the USB into camera, it shows "BUSY" on top LCD, (as I would expect) but only briefly, and with no result. Annoying as I've hardly used the USB, only to calibrate the lenses.

Anyways - How can I remove my name from the usercopyright field?
I put the name in with "EOS Utility software"
The "Delete copyright information" option in the menus is always grayed out. (Why?)
Tried "Clear camera settings" and removing both batteries etc - still showing on Lightroom import.

Any thoughts....
Ta

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FD to EOS adapters

I've searched around the internet a lot and am aware of the Ed Mika conversions for FD lenses.
Having got about 10 FD lenses still, I am wondering about getting a secondhand 5D mk2 and using some FD lenses on it.
Has anyone tried this latest development below which doesn't involve using any optics in the conversion process?

http://www.fdtoef.com/

I can't find any reviews anywhere, but they have only recently been introduced. The advantage is that it's reversible, and I could try it on numerous lenses to see which perform best.

More generally, do people think this is worth trying? I currently have a 600D with a couple of EF-S lenses, and was wondering whether I would see noticeable improvements in picture quality using the 5Dmk2 with some FD lenses. Starting to buy a used 5Dmk2 with a number of EF lenses is out of the question financially.

I would be photographing landscapes, using a tripod, and apertures from f8 to f16.

Thanks for any information/suggestions

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Product Advisory for the EOS-1D X & EOS-1D C

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<strong>Autofocus Recall</strong>


This notice is to proactively inform our customers of the details of the phenomena described below along with Canon’s support actions. Because we value the trust our customers have placed in us, we are dedicated to continuously improving product quality and delivering industry-leading service and support. We offer our sincerest apologies to any customer who may be inconvenienced.</p>
<p><b>Affected Products</b>

EOS-1D X Digital SLR Camera

EOS-1D C Cinema EOS Camera</p>
<p><b>Phenomena</b>

In some units of the models listed below, there is a possibility that the following phenomena may occur due to wear caused by insufficient lubrication within the camera’s driving mechanism.</p>
<p>1. AF searches but does not lock in on the subject.

(Caused by minute particles produced by wear mentioned above.)

2. The image shown in the viewfinder is “blurry” or “not steady”.

(Occurs if wear progresses.)</p>
<p><b>Potentially Affected Products</b>

1. EOS-1D X: If the sixth digit of the serial number is “1”, “2”, “3”, “4”, “5”, “6” or “7”, the phenomena described above may occur.

2. EOS-1D C: If the sixth digit of the serial number is “1”, the phenomena described above may occur.</p>
<p>NOTE: If the camera’s battery compartment contains one of the markings illustrated below, the camera is NOT affected by the

phenomena described above even if the sixth digit of the serial number is one of the numbers mentioned above.<b>

</b></p>
<p><b>    </b>Markings of UNAFFECTED cameras</p>
<table width="81%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td width="371">
<p align="center"><img style="border: 0px;" alt="" src="http://www.usa.canon.com/app/images/support/A-mark.jpg" width="211" height="136" border="0" /></p>
</td>
<td>
<p align="center"><img style="border: 0px;" alt="" src="http://www.usa.canon.com/app/images/support/black-mark.jpg" width="175" height="152" border="0" /></p>
</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td width="371">
<p align="center">An “A” mark</p>
</td>
<td>
<p align="center">A black mark on the silver bracket</p>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
<p><b>Support</b>

Potentially affected cameras will be inspected and repaired free of charge. If you own one of the potentially affected cameras please contact our Customer Support Center.</p>
<p>This information is for residents of the United States and Puerto Rico only. If you do not reside in the USA or Puerto Rico, please contact the Canon Customer Support Center in your region.</p>
<p>Please <a href="https://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/professional/productRegistration.action?nodeCid=0901e024803b5c73">register the EOS-1D X</a> and the <a href="https://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/professional/productRegistration.action?nodeCid=0901e024807a21e1">EOS-1D C</a>. By registering, we will be able to notify you via email when service updates are available.</p>
<p>Thank you,

Customer Support Operations

Canon U.S.A., Inc</p>

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Stuck Pixels on the 5D3

Hi,

I just noticed that I've got two pixels on my sensor that are stuck - one is red while the other appears white. Importing as DNG into Lightroom adjusts automatically for these stuck pixels and these are visible only before importing.

I'm unsure whether these should be a cause of alarm. Net-searches suggest that it happens with all digital cameras and there is nothing to worry about. The camera is under warranty but I'm not too sure I want to send the camera to Canon for 3-4 weeks.

Thanks in advance ...

Cheers ... J.R.

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