Which picture style should I be using when I shoot RAW format on the Canon 5D MKIII?

• Neutral
• Cinestyle
• Cineplus Cinema
• Marvels Cine

I plan to do heavy post processing.

Have I missed one here that is better than any in this list?

I'm taking photos of jewellery

My end output is for the web
+ Some printing - but this is only off an inkjet

Is there anything wrong with shooting in small raw size??

EDIT: For some shots, I do need to be further away and then crop around the main object
Does that change anything?

Thanks


Omar

I don't know what I'm missing... I can't find where the controls are for setting aperture when shooting video

The option to change *just* isn't there!

Not sure what I'm doing wrong

Thanks


Omar

Not sure where to post this question...
I need 'something' to hold onto 'anything'

Let me explain...
I have a setup where I shine 2 LED torches at the item I'm photographing and videoing

I would live to have 'something' hold the torch in place
Some sort of bendy twisty arm that wraps around and hold the torch, with which I can then easily bend and twist and suspend at any angle I wanted

ALSO... I want it to sit on a tripod so I could have standing independently

I'm using for torches - but this contraption would be great for hold 'anything' else

Does anything like this exist??

Thanks


Omar

I want to buy a macro lens for taking pics of gold and silver rings

I've seen on eBay flash rings that fit around the lens that cost £26

like this one:


is this ok?
i've only searched a little bit... and haven't found branded ones so far

Also... is there anything wrong with this flash for my 60D:



This one is a measly £26

I've looked up prices of 'proper' flashes for my camera and seem to only find ones for around £400!

Thanks


Omar

Can someone tell me what bag I need to buy for my 60D

I've seen a few on eBay - small backpack... about £15 - £20
Will fit camera, 2 lens and charger

Should I go for something bigger + more padded?

Should I also get some ouches for my lens?

Thanks


Omar

No hard references that I can see, but here is an amusing look into the 7D2's possible future:

http://www.digitalrev.com/article/nikon-d7100-vs-canon-eos/ODkzMjU3Mzc_A

I still am firmly in the camp that the 7D2 is (a) absolutely going to be aimed at pros (for birders, sports guys, etc.) and (b) is absolutely going to cost more than the 6D. I also am strongly leaning towards (though not prepared to guarantee) that the great 1Dx/5D3 AF system is coming to the 7D2, and Digitalrev would seem to agree. Then again, my postings on this forum may be the basis of DR's 'rumors'.

But it is all speculation at this point. Here's the latest dollop on our collective plates.

- A

I'm thinking of buying my wife either a 100D with the 40 mm... a small, light and portable option for her.

However, I think she might find the 40 alone a little narrow, and was looking for a descent wider angle addition (it's just a shame there isn't a AF 20mm pancake).

I have read a fair few reviews of the 24 IS, and despite it obviously being a great 'near L' lens, I am on the fence as if it is worth it. It is smaller than the kit lens (that was my criteria), and i could use it on my 5D too (always a bonus). Do any of you guys have one/tried it? Any opinion or alternative suggestion? What do people think of the non-IS version?

Just an FYI I have a 17-55 f/2.8 that she can use if she wants a standard zoom, but i'm trying to make a smallest lightest kit possible. She prefers the 100D over the M because of the autofocus (she has tried both).

I used a LED Lenser M14 torch to light up this image, particularly the foreground and right up to the legs of the bridge, really is an amazingly compact and powerful torch. Canon 5DIII 24-70II at 24mm f2.8 30sec 100ISO torch was used for approx 15-20 secs and 2 vehicles conveniently crossed the bridge, as well as planes and boats moved throughout the exposure.
Just after sundown while waiting for the moon to rise.

Hi guys

Last weekend I almost bought a 6D kit (with 24-105) but then thought to get advice from this forum before I do an upgrade. I have been using my 40D for last four years and it has served me well and I have taken many memorable shots from my travels and trips from world over. There were some issue with the quick control dial which I got repaired but now I am looking for better ISO performance and more importantly better IQ and hence thought the FF is the way to go.
I have a Tamron 17-50 2.8 VC which I use more than 90% of the time. Other than that I have a 430EXII, a humble 55-250 (I think I don’t use it much because of the IQ, in comparison to my Tammy), 50 1.8 and a Canon 100mm macro lens which I wish to put into more action in future.
Most of the times I shoot during my travel, landscapes and some portraits of my family and friends. Other than some ad-hoc sporting events (like F1 or some cricket matches), I haven’t done sports much, but down the line, in 2-3 years I should be shooting kids ;D hence ability to shoot ‘action’ would be required.

Now coming to my question, what should be the upgrade path for me from the following, with a current budget of around $2300:

1. Keep the 40D (quick control dial may need another repair/replacement) and wait for 7D MK2 and just upgrade the lenses, specially the 55-250 with 70-300 L lens and eventually buy a 24-105 and 10-22.
2. Buy a 6D now with 24-105 kit lens. I am excited about the Wifi feature yet I am in dilemma only because this guy has got so much of bad press and the on paper AF is inferior to many of its peers, else I would have bought one few months back (no option of renting cameras available here). If I go FF, I won’t be able to use the EF-S lenses, hence I would eventually have to get a long telephoto lens.
I will appreciate if some real owners of 6D can comment on the usability of outer focus points in comparison with 40D/50D under ‘normal’ conditions as I prefer using them instead of focus and recompose.
Also if I go this way, have someone used 6D and Tamron 70-300 VC USD combo and can comment on AF performance and the IQ.

I am not thinking about 5DMK3 because of its price and I am not looking to switch the camp, even though the dark side is looking brighter on paper at the moment.

Thanks in advance for your comments and suggestions.

Cheers

I like to get some advice. I sold my Sigma 70-200 f2.8 non IS and I'm having a hard time on what to buy to fit my 6D.

I currently have a Canon 24-105mm f/4, I also have a 50mm that's attached to my T3i.

Option 1: Buy a Canon 70-200mm IS f/4 and a Canon 85mm f1.8 to capture those low light shoots.

Option 2: Buy a Canon 70-200mm IS f2.8.

I like to shoot portraits, strobies and beach scenes.

Once I get whatever I choose, I'll probably sell the 24-105 for a Canon 24-70 or Tamron 24-70 with vc.

I would appreciate your suggestions.

Thank you

I've decided to buy a DSLR camera to advance my interest in photography. Here are some of my photos; to give you an idea of the style that appeals to me. http://500px.com/Black-Bird/sets .Mostly street, travel and architecture. I'm also wanting to get into portraits and more landscape. I realize I am all over the place but that is why I love photography, to capture life everywhere I see. After reading books on DSLR photography, many camera reviews, seeing sample shots and visiting shops; I came up with the following options and would like your help and advice. I've done my best to understand the considerations but forgive me if I am not just there yet. I'd love a full-frame because of image quality. Love to stay around $1500, but I don't want to find myself wanting to buy a full-frame within a short time. Prices are just roughly.

Which option or alternative for the body would you recommend? Am I too hasty dreaming of full-frames?

1 - Canon 6D + EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS ($2500)
I think I'd be happy and content with this + 50mm prime for a looooong time.

2 - Canon 600D + EF-S 18-135 f/3.5-5.6 IS ($800)
I am not sure of the kit lenses that comes with 600D.

3 - Canon 600D + EF 50mm f/1.4 USM ($900)
Could add more lenses later.

4 - Canon 600D + EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM ($1200)
This is also looking like a great option. I could add, $400 for a 50mm 1/4 prime for $1600 total.

I thought of 7D kit with EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS at $1600. However considering 6D is full frame and the lense (24-105) it comes with, I am thinking 6D is a better option.

I thought of used 5DM2, but they seem to be just as expensive without a lense as 6D with a lense.

I thought of 60D, but from what I read 600D would do just as well and cheaper.


I'd love to know what you think and what you'd advise. Thanks in advance!

Hi guys,

I was wondering about your use of the rear AF button.
Why and how do you feel comfortable using it ? Do you usually change between shutter-AF and rear-AF depending on the shooting-case ? Or do you stick to one configuration ?

I can't get it. I need to have a finger on the back wheel to adjust the aperture wheen shooting manually and even in Av/Tv I really often play with the +/- to adjust the metering (using the Av/Tv as some kind of "advanced-manual").
But on the other hand i noticed that lots of colleagues use that rear-AF-button which leads me into wondering about my way of taking pictures.

I currently feel uncomfortable using that rear-button to focus but maybe you'd be able to tell me why it is a better method and i'll be able to focus better/quicker if i get used to.

I work with a 5D Mark.II (9 focus points) and 1D (45).

Thanks !

Hey Folks,

I finally received my 5D Mark III a few days ago, and I have been tinkering around with it a little. SO far, I am blown away. Relatively new to using 35mm sensors. So this is a big step up from the 60D for me.

However, all well and good! I am having trouble using a different picture style for stills, than when in video.

For example, I would like to use a custom (User defined) picture style for video (Cinestyle/Marvels Cine), but I would also like to shoot to Canon's 'Standard' picture style for stills. And I can't see a way to do this?

I have always been able to do this with my 60D! So a bit lost.

Any info would be great!

Many Thanks,
-Charlie

Hey gang,

I am off on a work trip to a beautiful but not super nice or safe place. I will have some down time, and I hope to snap some nice shots.

I've read in various places to consider making your camera look like junk to dissuade thieves. Links like this http://petapixel.com/2013/03/19/5-critical-tips-for-travel-photographers/ (see point #1) speak to what I am talking about.

I'm going to keep the gear simple on this trip, and leave the red-ringed gear behind. My 28 IS (which is phenomenal, btw) is a sharp as some L primes and is fantastically non-descript (small, lacks that telltale red ring, etc.). That's all I'm bringing on the glass side of things.

But I am bringing my 5D3, so I will be temporarily dirtying it up as best I can. I'd like to do so as intelligently and 100% reversibly as possible. Knowing I may sell this camera someday, I treat it very well and take great pains to have it looking like new. What tape will stay on well in hot and humid conditions (think Florida in the summer, not like a rainforest or anything) but come off completely cleanly with minimal cleanup required?

Any suggestions? I have electrical tape, masking tape, a black duct tape (Gorilla tape if you know it) and possibly some hockey tape.

Thanks,
A

1.)

The Gathering 2013 by petereoin1, on Flickr

2.)

PJF_2922_pf by petereoin1, on Flickr

3.)

The Gathering 2013 by petereoin1, on Flickr

4.)

The Gathering 2013 by petereoin1, on Flickr

5.)

The Gathering 2013 by petereoin1, on Flickr

Thanks for looking

I was wondering if there were any way I can use this feature on my 7D?

One way would be to get the camera to have a way to apply setting manually, as there must be a number of legacy lenses people use, like this one.

I'm using 6D. Recently, I rented 24-105. Upon reviewing my pics, my composition was not good. I used to have grid lines on my Powershot g12.

Can anyone enlighten me,

How does the photographer apply rule of third when there is no grid?

How they trained themselves to compose nicely using only the diamond pattern focus point?

Or is it that Real Photographer don't use any grid guides at all, but uses their visual skills?

Hi everyone,

my lovely new 6D arrived and I have a problem: I charged the battery and I think the charger showed a continuos green light at some point. I couldn't take the battery out then* and when I took it out several hours later the charger was blinking (i.e. almost charged?). I took the battery out put it in the camera, unlocked the camera and..... nothing
Did I do something wrong? I leave other batteries, e.g. the one of my old 400d in the charger often and nothing happens. Is that wrong?
What would the most likely problem be? Battery or charger? (Or camera?) Unfortunately I don't have another battery to try it out. Am sooooo disappointed, I had looked forward to using it this weekend
Amazon doesn't have it in stock anymore, so they can't even exchange.

My main question is: Is there any easy stupid thing that I am overlooking? Anything at all? Some magic switch I have to hit somewhere, some plastic wrap hidden somewhere? How can that be in a perfectly new camera/battery/whatevev?

Thanks
RadioPath

* my toddler would have noticed the shiny new toy and would not have been willing to go to bed

I have been doing focus and recompose since I started to photograph! I mean with my old Lubitel what choice did I have? Same with AE1 and the 300D. Now I always thought that the focus is done along the radius. Is my understanding incorrect? Is it done on a plane perpendicular to the ray of light going through the center of curvature of the lens? I have seen a couple of articles on this but there is no real explanation there. They just say that the focus goes off a bit. Very early on, I would shoot at f8 or f11 or even f16 so I guess I never had an issue with DOF...

If you could point me to some articles that would help.

Thanks in advance.

Rustom

Hey everyone, finally got my 6d on the way. I just wasn't sure what the (wg) was on one of the models? Is it just wifi-GPS? Or some foreign label thing? Anyways, making sure I got the legit thing. I bought from digital rev as I had heard good things and their price was nice.. Thanks for the responses!

J

Hi All,
I've done still photography almost exclusively and have a 60D and a 5D3. Soon, I'm going to need to do a little bit of video for a website that I'm working on. The job will be for a ballet studio. I don't have any questions about the photography, as I'm confident there, it's more about video. Here's the type of work I'll be doing:

One (or maybe a few) short 30-45 second clips showing the dance studio, and some classrooms, and what it's like.
Two "dancer profiles" featuring interviews, some shots of them warming up and performing, etc. Maybe 1-2 minutes each.

Just to help out, I'll list my equipment, leaving out stuff like extenders/flash etc:
5D3, 60D
70-200 2.8 IS II, 85 1.2 II, 24-105 f4, 24 1.4 II, 8-15 f4, 10-22.
I also have a gopro 3 (which may or may not be useful for this job)
I also have a variable ND filter, as well as a cheapy set of drop-in Cokin filters.

For audio, I have a Zoom H4n, an RE20 mic, a Shure SM93 Lavalier mic, and a set of paired Rode NT5 condensers. I also have a pre-73 MK2 pre-amp.

I have a somewhat cheapy LED video light as well.

Now, I want the video to look good, but I don't know a lot about it. I'm willing to invest a bit of money (because this job is paying well overall, and it's a tax write-off), but video isn't going to be my full-time job anytime soon. Basically, I don't want to buy crappy stuff i'll need to replace the next time I do a project, but I also can't afford to drop $10k on video stuff. I think a budget of $1500 would be about the max I should spend.

Here are some of the things that I was looking at/thinking about getting. My main question is, what, if any of things things are necessary/would help my video look more professional? Is there anything else that's important that I forgot? Is there anything on this list you wouldn't recommend, or would recommend something else?

1) http://www.rhinocameragear.com/Rhino%20Products/DSLR%20Gear/Camera%20Sliders/Rhino%20Slider%20Carbon

A rhino slider: My thought was that a slider would be a cheap-ish way to provide nice looking moves that would take care of a lot of the kind of shots I'd need.

I've also been interested in doing some time-lapse though, and have had my eye on the Dynamic Perception Stage Zero bundle (http://dynamicperception.com/products/stage-zero-6-foot-bundle). Since my uses are primarly photography, would you recommend getting the Stage Zero and trying to make it work as a normal slider as well as for time-lapse, or should I get the Rhino slider (or some competitor) and worry about time-lapse later?

2) Proaim 6 Camera Cage with Tripod Mount
http://www.amazon.com/Proaim-Handle-Camera-Cameras-Camcorders/dp/B005DN8B2S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1369552546&sr=8-2&keywords=proaim+6

My thought was that this would make it easier to get low angle shots while (let's be honest) making it look more professional, and match my clients expectations of what "video work" looks like. Also, I have a follow focus that I got a great deal on a while back, but I don't have a rail system, so in order to use that follow focus, I need rails anyway.

3) A cheapy matte box
http://www.amazon.co.jp/Koolertron-DSLR%E3%82%AB%E3%83%A1%E3%83%A9%E3%83%9E%E3%83%83%E3%83%88%E3%83%9C%E3%83%83%E3%82%AF%E3%82%B9-Matte-Canon-Olympus-Pentax/dp/B008MHLYB2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369552852&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=proaim+6 maybe something like that? It's only $35. Is the matte box really something worth spending a bunch of money on? I know many of them take drop-in ND filters, but the ones that do are a lot more expensive, plus I doubt the filters I have would fit.


4) Tripod Head
I have a Benro tripod, and it's pretty sturdy. I'm not sure if it'd be good enough for video (this is based on the fact that I don't often see video people using photography tripods, rather than on any knowledge)
I was thinking about this one:
Manfrotto MVH502AH
http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B006TZE0UQ/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5

5) Atomos Ninja 2
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/858661-REG/ATOMOS_ATOMNJA002_Ninja_2.html

If I understand correctly, this records straight from the HDMI out, and records to an attached HD. This seems like a big advantage, but is it overkill for this kind of job I'm looking at now? (especially with no other jobs on the horizon necessarily) Should I wait until later on when I get a few more jobs like this, or is the quality increase worth it from day 1, even over certain other things?

6) Kessler KC-Lite 8.0 Camera Crane
http://www.kesslercrane.com/product-p/100041.htm
Seems useful for both photography and video, looks like, and it's relatively inexpensive at $400.

7) Zacuto Z-Finder / DP4 / ?
EVF? Non-EVF? Necessary at this stage?

8 ) External Video Monitor



Other thoughts:
Other than the small LED light I have, I only have speedlites (oh, and a Fenix TK45 flashlight http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003URQEBO/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1, which is actually pretty bright)

Any other important things i'm missing? Any questions that I'm too inexperienced to know to ask? Any other things I should know?

Thanks so much!

Does anyone have any advice, legal or otherwise on reshoots? I did a shoot following the clients directions and they weren't happy with the weather so they requested a reshoot, the location for the reshoot meant a $5,000 travel bill which they were happy to pay for and I offered to reshoot at no cost. However, they then asked me to do it with only 2 hours notice and I advised against it due to not enough time and weather conditions. They were desperate so I agreed to do it but there responsibility entirely. They weren't happy again and now want me to pay for an entire reshoot or pay for someone else to do it otherwise they will sue. (There is no contract, all over the phone.)