1. How do teleconverters affect a lens's Minimum Focus Distance?

2. When I AFMA a lens with FoCal, it gives me a figure (+3 or -2, etc.) that I manually dial into my AFMA menu on my 5D3. But when I then attach a Kenko 1.4x teleconverter between that lens and body, the body goes nuts. To regain control, I must remove the battery for at least 5 seconds. If I disable AFMA, I can attach and use the lens and teleconverter without a problem. So, is there any way to get AFMA to play nice with Kenko teleconverters, or must I always remember to disable AFMA before using it? And do Canon teleconverters face this same issue?

I've decided to get the EF 135mm f/2 L, and I'd like to get a good one on the used market. I've checked out a couple of the rental places (Lens Rentals, Borrow Lenses), and they don't have any in stock at the moment. I'm not in a great place geographically to be able to look at one locally on Craig's List.

Other than those venues, where are some other places to procure this lens? I've always had good luck with third party vendors on Amazon, although I've never purchased a used lens that way. I know that Amazon has a warranty program, even for third party vendors, but luckily I've never had to use it, so I don't know how good it is. Whatever thoughts you have on purchasing a used quality lens online would be greatly appreciated. My timeline is such that I can wait for a little while, but I'd like to make a purchase within the next 30-45 days. Thanks in advance for your advice.

I am trying out the 135L right now. It's a phenomenal lens, of course. But I do find situations where OIS would be helpful, and a little extra light-gathering capability never hurts.

Has Sigma actually announced that the 135/1.8 OIS is coming, or is that more of an unsubstantiated rumor at this point?

Hi all,

if you are interested, go and stop by my new blog discussing the 5D Mark III as a tool for broadcasting news. Im a freelance cameraman working for Al Jazeera, APTN, Channel 4 and others in East-Africa and i try to keep the blog as
much up to date as possible:

http://5dbroadcaster.blogspot.com/

Thanks,

Marc

I made an attempt to shoot video at a small oval race track last week, it was my first time shooting video with the 5D Mk III (or much of anything else for that matter). I'm disappointed with the results. Because of the speed of the cars I thought shooting at 60 fps would be a wise choice for better slow motion of the inevitable accidents. This meant 720p. The video is very soft, I've read since that some consider 720 to be unusable.
My setup was: 24-70 @ 70mm w/ f4-f8 (changed as the sun went down), 720 @ 60 IPB (>4 hours of shooting so space issues, don't want to change cards in the middle of a race), ISO 500 - 12800 (again, changed as the sun went down, poorly lit track) Tripod was used (paned with the cars), Zoom H4n (audio is fine).
Would 1080p 30 be a better choice with the trade off of slow motion? And perhaps a shutter of 125 or higher for a sharper look?
Most of the action happens at > 150 ft from the camera, the closest I get to the cars is ~50 feet.
TIA

The last time I went to the beach, I had a Sony point and shoot ($200) and I had no fear. I was taking pictures while the water was up to my knees with my daughter splashing around.

And now that I have a 60D which might be a 5d mkiii by the time we are beach bound, a 70-200mm f/2.8 L IS mkii, a 24-105mm, and a bunch of other lenses. And one grain of sand is all it takes to screw things up.

So... what do yall suggest? I will absolutely avoid changes the lenses outside... and I will absolutely not leave my gear on the sand or even on a blanket that might have sand on it... but is it worth the risk to even take it out of the hotel? Should I rent a body/lens and let the guys at Borrow lenses remove the sand from the motor?

I was thinking of stupid ideas like wrapping saran wrap around the lens and body and then just treating the lens like it was a prime... but that doesn't really seem reasonable.

I should have agreed to go to Disney again.

I am only curious, but has anyone ever really done a true comparison in performance between these two lenses (and the 300's as well)? I just wonder if there are actually any in-the-field performance differences. The ISO comparion charts look very similar. I was just curious. Thanks.

Check this out-

Comparison of Canon EOS Burst Shutter Sounds (visual)

Damn ... The 1DIV and the 1Dx sound like machine guns.

Apologies if this has been posted earlier. I hope I embedded it correctly.

Cheers ... J.R.

I just recently bought a Canon 7D. This is my first attempt with it and Final Cut Pro.

Would love to know what you think. Any feedback or advice is appreciated.

Steve

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EF7gcqU6kaU

Hello,

I'd like to hear your opinion on what lens fits my needs best.
Recently I switched to FF and now it is time to upgrade my lenses as well.

What I do:
Mostly landscapes, tele for details and the occasional animal. While I am not hiking multiple days with my eqipment it should fit well into one backpack with other stuff and weight is an issue.
Sometimes people shots.

Current equipment
5D2, Canon 16-35, Tamron 24-70, 50/85mm primes and a Tamron 70-300VC

With the current cashback I was thinking about getting the new 70-200IS and a teleconverter for reach if I need it. On the other hand directly going for the 70-300 or 100-400 adds more reach at lower weight and cost.

The f2.8 of the 70-200 is nice to have but not an absolute must. A 70-200/f4 however would be too slow if I add a TC.
I understand that IQ from the 70-200/2.8 is best among these lenses and the -300 comes second.

Before I rent all these lenses for a weekend to test I'd be interested if you have advice or were in a similar situation.

Thank you
Jens

These are approximately the same price now. Would one be preferable over the other? Yes, I know the TS-E 24mm Mark II is better than both.

This is my first post on CR. I have been following all you brilliant guys/gals for some time now.
Since 2006 I have been using my 350D, but yesterday I went crazy and bought the 5D3 I've been yearning for for sometimes now, to a large extent inspired by your posts.
With the body I bought the 24-70mm, f/2.8 II, the 50 mm, f/1.2 and the 8-15 mm fisheye - I'll probably be taken away in a straight jacket soon
So far I've been blown away by the quality both resolution, sharpness and high ISO performance. It's so incredible much better than the 350D in all aspects.
I obviously have a lot to learn, but I know were to get help

The Japanese Yen has fallen considerably in value in recent months. Japanese exports should therefore be much cheaper now for buyers, so why are Canon prices remaining so high? I'd love a new Canon 5D mk III but current MAP limitations are keeping prices high and stopping me from buying.

I'm looking for some input on which lens to purchase....please let me know what you think, and please keep in mind I'm just an amateur photographer.

I just ordered a Nikon D600 as a second camera to my 5D Mark III, and I'm considering purchasing either the Nikon 14-24 f/2.8 or the 16-35 f/4.

I already own the Canon 17-40 f/4 to use with my 5d Mark III, so I'm leaning toward the Nikon 14-24 f/2.8 to use with the D600.

My primary uses for the Nikon 14-24, or the Nikon 16-35, would be:
* sports...football, baseball stadiums, and hockey arenas
* cityscapes/landscapes....I'm planning on taking a trip to Mount Rushmore this summer
* astrophotography
* architecture

Thanks

P.S. Attached are a few photos I took with the 5D mk3 and 17-40 f/4

I am looking at getting a 70 -200 F2.8 L 2. I have at present have the excellent 70- 300f4-5.6L, is it worth buying the 70 200L or would be better to go for 85F1.2L and the 135 F2.0L, and advice would be most appreciated.

Well am new to the world of photography and am learning bit by bit. I was going through some pictures at Devianart and on one pic i saw this cam info "Sensor size = 5 mm".
I have attached a image. What size is the uploader talking about? Can anybody help me out on this?

Dear friends,
My question concerns different shooting profiles. As I understand all of them flatten out the image so that you have some extra latitude to play with in post-production.
But! Are they applied to the image BEFORE encoding (i.e. right at the sensor) or AFTER?
My experience tells me that, say, Cinestyle pumps up the blacks making them awfully noisy and thus forcing me to supress the noise again to get back to square one.
Any advice is appreciated.
With thanks from Russia,
A.

Forget all the high tech guff for a minute...go out and buy a 100D/SL1 slap on a shorty forty, walk down the city street and shoot, shoot, shoot. Go on you know you want too....it's called fellin gooooood! Don't be shy post them here.

If you are signing up to be a CR member, the VERIFICATION CODE required on the signup page is intended to stop Spam Robots from logging in.

It is not there to discourage new membership, but to make the forum a more pleasant place for valid users.

Please cut and paste the following verification code into the question on the signup page.
Do not include the * Characters.

***Canon70D***

I saw some nice infra red photos and I wondered are there two types of filters?
Namely, I thought that UV/IR filter is used to cut of those rays. So what filter should one use for IR photography? Are these different filters or I missed something?

Came across this interesting article on BBC online news service. Here is a quote from one of the lead authors,

"It might seem a bit counter-intuitive to think that more information can be captured from a detector which uses just a single pixel rather than the multi-megapixel detectors found in conventional digital cameras ..."

Here is the link to the article:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-22556172

Cheers

I made this yesterday with some boring video I shot on my walk to breakfast.

I don't really do video much so please be gentle:
Private Video on Vimeo

password is: "canonsucks"*


You can download the original file if you really want to pixel-peep! I hope to shoot some more interesting subjects this weekend. No more comparisons though, not wasting my time on stock Canon video anymore!

*calm down internet, it's a joke

Greetings fellow 5D3 users. What are you impressions of the auto LCD brightness function? Can it effectively compensate for large changes in ambient light, or is it gimmicky feature?

For the past year, I've been trying to figure out the characteristics of the light meter, so I've left the LCD brightness in manual. However, since a typical shoot for me starts in bright sunlight, and doesn't conclude until it's pitch black outside, I find myself fiddling with the screen brightness as the ambient light changes. I image most wedding photogs can probably relate.

That said, I'm contemplating giving the Auto screen brightness feature a go again, but am hesitant to experiment with this on a commissioned gig.

My wife has very shaky hands in all the time and she has a tough time getting good pictures on a P&S. She needs a new camera, and likes it to be small enough and light enough to fit in her purse. I am thinking that it would be wise to get something with a f/2 lens to get faster shutter speeds to eliminate blur. Anyone have any suggestions, Canon or not? Looking to keep it under $400

hello everyone, i am new to 5d3, just got it two weeks ago...noticed the battery after 2.5 hours charge according to the manual, i am only getting about 100 shots or so the battery life drops to 67% (24-105 was used, no live view or long exposure, had power savings ever 8 mins)...yesterday had about 20 shots, battery dropped to 94% (using various of 40, 50, 24-105, no live view or long exposure)

thou some canon users i have met will always charge new batteries of 12 hours, is this a good idea at all? wouldn't this actually kill the battery's life even more? a fashion photographer i met at a bird walk, he said he could get 1500-2000 shots using the 24-105 in which i am amazed by it...what's your battery life experience?

when compared to the xsi i still have, single original canon battery for that gets about 700-800 shots, this seems battery issue? i have sent email to canon and was asked to try with a different battery and if not available, send the camera and battery to canon toronto for a checkup...that also means i will have to pay for shipping plus i will be out of a camera for the next little while, what's their usual turnaround time anyway?

any reply appreciated...

- andre