I am planning for a trip to visit cities in France and Italy in a couple of months. Would love to bring all the lens I have, but most likely will be one. I am narrowing it down to EF 24-70 v1 or EF 24-105. Will accompany 5D3 and getting XA20 when release in June. Weigh will be a factor, that's why I only want to carry one lens.

Thought or suggestion is greatly appreciated.

Tyring to make my first post here. These are some photos from MotoGP in Austin.

More can be found at www.buonophotography.com/motogp

Let me know what you think.

I have been having a problem with my flash for a while. But i dont think it is with my flash i believe it with the user.
I have a 600ex and a 5dm3 and 5dm2.
Whenever typically for a wedding since the shots are moving fast and i do not have time to continually adjust stuff i put my cam on av and my flash on ettl.
with my 5d2 it works out just fine.
with my m3 tho it always seems to be off. like the flash all the suddent becomes under powered and isnt bounce flashing correctly(typically pointed up with gary fong)
whenever i change one setting it doenst seem to effect anything-i understand because it is in av and ettl both semi-automatic modes changing something means the camera will compensate for it.
but ill change flash to +1 to add more to it and it does nothing. ill change it to -2 no noticeable difference in image quality.
it makes me almost want to use my m2 more! so frustrating. it has been going on for a while now and i cannot seem to figure it out.
could it be a metering mode? did they change the way the m3 works with flash? is it a new ettl? please help with any ideas as i have a wedding tomorrow and this has been driving me mad.
thanks

This is the kind of post for which there is no single best answer, but I am curious as to other opinions. I will be traveling through Central Asia. I am limited by weight restrictions and it will be quite hot so I am trying to limit my kit. Right now, I am planning to bring my 70-200 f/4 IS, my 24-104, and my 17-40. While I may want to do some building interiors, I am not gonna carry my 14mm and the 100-400 is just too big and heavy for this trip. The 40 would be nice but redundant. My high iso shots have been OK, so I think that I can get by without a lens that fast. I have a Jobey that can squeeze into my bag, so that might be worthwhile.

My questions....anyone traveled through the 'stans before? Does my logic make sense to you? Would you do anything different? Maybe I just want some re-affirmation of my logic (or lack of) here. I tend to do "people" shots with some scenery. Thanks.

A few days back, there was a discussion regarding whether the ZE 2/25 was a reasonable lens for astrophotography. I've been clouded out since then but caught a break under a dark sky. I decided to try put this to rest - at least for my lenses. The usual caveat applies - I tested one sample of each. Take this for what it's worth.

From inspection of their published performance, I believe the 2/25 Distagon, 2/50 MP, 2/100 MP and 2/135 Sonnar should be the sharpest lenses Zeiss offers. I own copies of the first three, so this these will have to do. I used a 5D Mk II with about 11k clicks. it had just come back from a sensor cleaning at Canon.

Very few flat-field astrographs are faster than f/4. Further, these lenses all exhibit 2 stops vignetting at large apertures which would make them unsuitable for astrophotography at f/2. To keep things reasonable then, I decided to stop the lenses down to f/2.8 and f/4.

I used a 3x loupe and 10x magnified live view to achieve critical focus on Spica, a bright, blue-white star, about halfway to the edge of the image. After focusing, Spica was relocated to the centre of the image. I did not use stop-down focusing - I think the camera stops itself down when it's in live view mode anyway. Note that critical focus was not achieved when the lenses were turned to the hard stop corresponding to focus at infinity. It is reasonably close but the spot size from stars was bloated by about 50%.

I used mirror lock up and the camera is piggy-backed on my heavy duty observatory mount. White balance was set to sunlight. I released the shutter using a timer and a cable. If I missed something, too bad...

The exposure was 30 seconds with long exposure noise cancellation enabled and ISO was adjusted to correctly expose the dark sky. This records lots of stars (some of which will be saturated.) This was to allow faint aberrations to be observed from a point source.

Here are my results -

ZE 2/25 @ f/3.2
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n581/noisejammer/ZE_25_f32.jpg?t=1371272295
Centre - faint stars form images of 1 pixel. Bright stars are round but exhibit spherochromatism of about 1 pixel.

Midfield - Faint stars form images of 1 pixel. Bright stars remain round with slight radial CA (perhaps 1 pixel.)

Extreme corner - Faint stars - < 2 pixels. Bright stars form images about 2x2 pixels with some sagittal astigmatism. This extends over about 6 pixels. There is some radial CA - perhaps 1 pixel wide.

ZE 2/25 @ f/4
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n581/noisejammer/ZE_25_f40.jpg?t=1371272328
Centre - faint stars illuminate a single pixel. Bright stars form perfectly round discs with barely visible spherochromatism.

Midfield - faint stars illuminate a single pixel. Bright stars form perfectly round discs with barely visible radial CA.

Extreme corner - faint stars are close to single pixels. Bright stars exhibit slight sagittal astigmatism (4 pixels). Some radial CA (perhaps 2 pixels, green to blue.)

ZE 2/50 MP @ f/2.8
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n581/noisejammer/ZE_50_f28.jpg?t=1371272351
Centre - faint stars are near single pixels. Bright stars are perfectly round with some violet fringing on Spica.

Midfield - faint stars are near single pixels. Bright stars are nearly perfectly round. Radially reversed coma-like pattern visible on extremely bright stars - probable indicator of field curvature.

Extreme corner - faint stars appear round. Bright stars exhibit sagittal astigmatism with a small fraction of their light spread out over 6 pixels.

ZE 2/50 MP @ f/4
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n581/noisejammer/ZE_50_f40.jpg?t=1371272362
Centre - all stars appear round. CA visible on Spica (but it is a special case.)

Midfield - all stars appear round. CA only visible on the brightest stars.

Extreme corners - faint stars are single pixels (these were not visible in f/2.8 image - perhaps because of vignetting.) Bright stars are slightly distorted from round but have minimal astigmatism.

ZE 2/100 MP @ f/2.8
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n581/noisejammer/ZE_100_f28.jpg?t=1371272377
Centre - faint stars are single pixels. Spica is a perfectly round disc with clear diffraction rings around it. Some CA is visible - but Spica is a special case of a very hot blue star.

Midfield - all stars appear to be round. Satellite tracks are easily visible as single pixel lines.

Extreme corner - all stars are round. There is no evidence of lateral CA.

ZE 2/100 MP @ f/4
http://i1141.photobucket.com/albums/n581/noisejammer/ZE_100_f40.jpg?t=1371272389
Centre - all stars are perfectly round with their apparent diameter being dictated by their brightness. Spica exhibits some CA but less than was visible at f/2.8

Midfield - all stars are perfectly round with their apparent diameter being dictated by their brightness.

Extreme corner - all stars except the brightest recorded are perfectly round with their apparent diameter being dictated by their brightness. Bright stars have slight sagittal stretch but it's barely visible.

Conclusions
1. When focused accurately at f/4, each lens can produce superb results.

2. The ZE 2/100 MP and ZE 2/50 MP are quite usable at f/2.8 however CA and slight astigmatism may hinder things.

3. The ZE 2/25 should not really be used for astrophotography with a faster aperture than f/4.

4. The user should be aware that the each lens has about 1-stop illumination fall off at f/2.8 which is probably undesirable for astrophotography.

5. The user should be aware that critical focus cannot be expected if the lens is simply focused against the hard stop.

6. It would be reasonable to expect similar performance from the ZE 2.8/21 and 2.8/15 if they are stopped down to f/5.6. I can't think of many good reasons to use such wide lenses for astrophotography (except making star trails or images from a static mount.)

If ppl really want the raw data, I'll make that available on the Canon DSLR Digital Astro group

Clearest skies
73 DE TO.

Hello,
I'm new here and I would need some advice regarding AF speed. Now, I know tons of threads regarding 6D vs. 5DIII exist and they usually compare specs on paper. I went to the store today with my 100-400L to test the AF speed since I mostly take bird pictures (you can see my flickr page to have a look at what I do mostly : www.flickr.com/photos/olivierlevasseur)
With that said, I mounted the lens and used basically the same settings on both cameras and then put the lens completely out of focus to test the speed at which it could acquire focus.
It was obvious that the 6D acquired focus more quickly although both cameras were spot on.
I know the 5DIII has 63 (or 61) AF point compared to the 11 points of the 6D, but what matters most to me is the AF speed and I was kind of skeptical about my finding.
I've never used a 5DIII before and some AF settings may have been changed in the menus (I know there are a lot of customization options in there)
Basically I wanted to know if somebody had the 100-400L on either these cameras and could comment on AF speed in real life. Regarding tracking birds in flight, I usually use center point.
Thank you very much, any input would be appreciated, and sorry for another debate thread between those 2 cameras.

Olivier

I love rankings, but unfortunately I seem to have bought the wrong lenses for my 5D3

Maybe I have to sell them all.

http://www.cameraegg.org/best-lenses-for-canon-eos-5d-mark-iii/

Hi all,

I read some early reviews of the MK III that suggested the image quality is better with IPB. I'm shooting a TV series in 1080P @ 24fps. The NBC station requires me to provide them with digital masters in Pro-Res 422 1080i. Any thoughts as to whether I would benefit from shooting IPB or should I stick with All-I?

Thanks so much,
Matt

Hi all,

What's the best way to do sound for a documentary when using the 5D m3?

Can I connect a Rode XLR shotgun directly to the 5D body? Should I connect the mic to a recorder and sync sound in post? What's a good recorder?

Other options?

Have a good day, thanks.

Best, Dave

I've hit a bit of a problem this week - I bought my 6D just before the New Year, I bought the body only and intended to use my 50mm f1.4 and 135mm f2 as my main lenses, soon after, my local shop had a second hand 17-40mm come in, I when to look and walked out with a new 16-35mm MkII Lens, which I'm really really very pleased with. My itch continued in Feb with a Eos M & 22mm prime, which I also really love for when I'm out on long walks. I'm missing something though... I'm finding that I'm not using my 50mm because its fairly inflexible as a walk around lens... What's a boy to do ???

I've now made the mistake of checking my local dealer and noticed they have a second hand 24-105mm (fantastic condition they say) in for about what a new one would have cost me back in Dec had I bought it as a kit lens. I've a fear though, will I walk out with a 24-70mm MkII that I've promised myself next year ?

I plan to take my 10-22mm and 70-300 non L along as trade in lenses, I can't use the former and don't use the latter as my 135mm F2 gives better pictures when I crop in than the 70-300 ever could. I'm starting to consider that what if I also traded my 50mm f1.4 too ?

I head to London and Paris late next week for a two week holiday - I'm wanting the 24-70mm but have a niggle in my head, is it the right lens for the holiday and should I get the second hand 24-105mm now, keep the 50mm and then as planned, get the 24-70mm next year ?

I like landscapes, available light, flower and portrait photography mostly. Won't be taking a tripod, but may just pick a joby up at the weekend for emergency ND1000 usage ;-)

Help me deal with the itch please ;-)

Apologies if this topic has already been covered at length. Having bought a 6D a couple of months ago, I am now ready to buy some accessories.

Please share and rate your favorite accessories, which might be best, etc.

I prefer this topic be NOT about lenses...or tripods. However, flashguns and their accessories could be included in the discussion if you like...preferably third party flashes, if anyone likes those ("you get what you pay for"...blah...sometimes yes, sometimes no...I'm open-minded).

For now...Specifically, I'm mainly interested in the best LCD screen protection for the money (preferably both top and main screen). Also interested in the best batteries and battery grip. There are a number of generic or third party Chinese brands out there, and I most definitely am interested in those (to save money over the Canon grip).

Also interested in camera straps, bags, etc. I've owned a small Tamrac Expedition backpack, sold it. I liked it a lot, though. I might want a bigger one in the future, but I don't do that much hiking while carrying a lot of gear. I've had the Canon "zoom pack" a long time, and like it. I got a Canon "100-EG" camera bag with the purchase of the 6D, have not used it yet.

I'm mostly interested in the "side access" or "slingbag" type, as they seem more practical. Which one do you like best? Adorama has some that look ok, but I know there are many others.

I've owned the pro "spider holster" for a couple of years, but have not used it much. Opinions on it or similar? The thing I don't like about it, is if there is a heavy lens on the camera, it seems like it's putting a lot of stress on the camera-lens interface, as I walk around...the mass of the lens pulls on the mount. Maybe it's just in my mind, but it seems like it could stress the mount over time. This is also true of other types such as "cotton carrier", since the camera is mounted or hung on the carrier via its tripod receptacle...while none of the lens' mass is supported by these types of "wearable camera support" gear. A solution would be some kind of strap or harness that could wrap tightly around a portion of the back half of the lens...but I guess that's too difficult or costly for these companies to design?

Regarding flashes and accessories: I think I'm interested in small flashgun mounted softboxes, but not sure. Once they get larger than 6x8 inches, they seem too cumbersome to use while mounted on the camera, without extension brackets, etc. I've had the "omnibounce", liked it, but I want to try some kind of larger box.

A quick google search shows something like this:
http://www.overstock.com/Electronics/BasAcc-Camera-Flash-Diffuser-with-Rubber-Ring/6650402/product.html?cid=202290&kid=9553000357392&track=pspla&ef_id=UZTpWAAABHbAPSPX:20130516172725:s

Camera focusing screens are ok to discuss, but not sure I really need a different one. Currently I only have one f/1.4 manual lens, but its "AF confirmation" works well enough, that it's more accurate than just my eye alone much of the time.

As for the SD memory cards...well, right now I only have two 16GB Lexar 400x cards, not sure which other ones to buy. I could see needing 32 or 64GB size if I am at a shoot and decide to do some video footage. I've read complaints about the (currently the fastest?) Sandisk "extreme pro", where the write speed seems slower than it should be...down to a crawl when used with a Nikon D800 after the camera buffer fills up. This is where we wish the 6D used CF cards!

Thanks in advance! Carl.

Now that 5DMkIII has been upgraded to support f/8 autofocusing have you tried using it? Of course this question applies equally to 1D series owners too.

1: Do you find AF practical/fast/accurate ?
2: How is the quality retained?

Well, I know that the latter is NOT f/8 autofocusing related but now that this feature is available it may invite more and more people to try using it (instead of just watching the excellent the-digital-picture site). Apart from the new generation super telephotos that can probably handle the version III teleconverters well, how smaller/cheaper Canon lens/teleconverter combinations work? (for example EF300MM f/4 with 2X, EF100-400mm with 1.4X, EF400mm f/5.6 with 1.4X)

I am thinking mostly Canon lenses with Canon II or III series teleconverters but feel free to comment on any camera/lens/teleconverter combination you want regarding autofocusing and quality issues.

Huge lightning over Sandton, Johannesburg. Canon 1Ds, 70-200mm f4 (45 second exposure)

This is my first post on this forum. i am attaching some Ballet pics taken (mostly) with my 7D and 70-200 f/2.8 IS USM lens. Hope you find them ok!

Justin, after some forthright comments from me, challenged me to do a review of the 300mm f/2.8 II. I am not up to writing a review but I will say why I bought the lens and give a few examples of how it has performed for me. Perhaps this thread will encourage others to submit their thoughts and photos.

I drifted into bird photography after going on safari 3 years with a 7D and brand new 200mm f/4 L IS, then progressed to a 400mm f/5.6 L and then 100-400mm f/5.6 L. After a birding holiday in Brazil, I was introduced by a Belgian to the birdpix.nl site where I submitted photos. Most were rejected for being too soft, and I was astounded by the quality of the mainly Dutch amateurs with their big white primes, usually 500mm but with the occasional 600mm or 400mm f/2.8, plus teleconverters. I needed to upgrade my gear.

After much thought and studying all the websites I plumped for the 300mm f/2.8 II, which is not the favourite lens of bird photographers, for my personal following reasons. Firstly, I do not use a tripod but always do hand held as I like to wander around with my camera swinging from my hand or sit in a hide. The 300mm is far lighter than the big 400, 500 or 600mm and is very easily carried all day. It is heavier than the f/4 400 DO but that is the same price and has little better IQ than the f/5.6 400mm and only two stops of IS. Secondly, the Canon MTFs and the TDP tests showed that the lens was exceptionally well matched to the new 1.4x and 2x TCs. So, the 300mm with the 2xTC is an exceptionally light and effective 600mm lens, and f/5.6 isn't too slow.

I collected the lens from Jessops on a Saturday morning a year ago and immediately rushed out before AFMAing and took some bird shots. The following full size (reduced to 1200x800 for uploading) and 100% crop from the middle (800x880) was about the 10th photo I took and just blew my mind as I had got no where near this quality before. It is of a sedge warbler collecting insects for its nest - 300mm, f/2.8 Canon 7D. I'll follow these with examples with the 1.4x and 2xTC.

I hope these show that the 300mm f/2.8 II provides us with outstanding 300, 420 and 600mm primes.

OK, I'm finally going to try video on my 7D and 6D - going to Yellowstone in a month. I have a Manfrotto 190CXPRO4 tripod with a Manfrotto ball head (496.) I assume video will be much better using a tripod. Any recommendations for an inexpensive head I could use on the Manfrotto tripod? Thanks!

Hi,

I am looking to get a fisheye for my 5D3, but I can not find any site where I can compare the image quality. Not even the-digital-picture has any sample shots.

The canon 8-15 is out of the range of what I want to spend.

I was thinking on a second canon 15 2.8 or a sigma.

What are my possibilities? Anyone had both of them? Also how is Rokinon?

What else I could consider?

I do not mind manual focus if its way sharper that the ones with auto focus.

Also, I could not find it. If I take a picture with a fisheye and than de-fisheye it do I loose a lot of image quality?

Thank you very much!

Partially in follow up to the "how not to get beat up during street photography", and partially, because I have never been to Vietnam...

This is a work trip (in studio from early morning till night - and no, not a photo studio) in early June for about 10 days...

It is unlikely that I will have a chance to venture outside the city as the schedule is very tight.. so I am thinking just limiting myself to 5D3, Sig 35 1.4, and the 135L.

Overkill? Will I miss 70-200? Thoughts? Ideas? Suggestions?

Thank you in advance!

The ML folks are making all my wishes come true!

Now my 300 mm f/4 performs like a 900mm f/4 in video mode, that is like a 3X zoom without any loss of light!

Here is how: http://www.magiclantern.fm/forum/index.php?topic=5441.msg35624#msg35624

So I just bought the 600ex flash to use with my 5D3.

On assignment for the week...works like a charm.

Then in the middle of a shoot...it stops working in E-TTL mode..and only shows TTL

No way to get it to back...pressed clear...removed batteries...will on do TTL

Call Canon CPS...we go thru the drill but nothing helps...they suggest I return it.

I bring it back to B&H...give me a new one...no questions asked.

put some batteries in...works just fine.

This time...within an hour of using it on the job...same thing...switches from E-TTL to TTL

Call Canon CPS...no suggestions.

Anyone else have this happen. And if you have...did you find a fix?

Thanks...Arnie

BTW..I was using the original canon off camera flash cord both times it stopped working...but used the 1st flash for 2 jobs with the off camera flash cord without problem.

I submitted the text of the subject line via a Google search. The following was returned among the search results. It was phrased much better than my original query, so I figure, what the heck why not use it instead:

"Many people recommend a focal length of 35mm, 50mm, and sometimes even 85mm and upwards for those interested in purchasing a prime lens. I, however, would like to figure out what focal length(s) I use most often, and then purchase a prime with that approximate focal length.

Is there a piece of software that will analyze thousands of photos and then tell me how many times I used a certain focal length?"


I don't have Lightroom installed and I don't recall how useful Adobe Bridge is at performing this type of analysis.

i have just bought myself a new 24-105mm lens and was thinking of buying the Lens Extension Tube EF 12 II and was wondering how much difference this will make etc; how close i can expect to get before the picture goes blurry im sorry if this is a stupid question im new to photography :-[