Ok here is the issue, whenever I do a studio shoot and the subject is wearing black (regardless of the back ground color) the photo shows just a black blob unless i turn up the exposure in post which just makes the black more grey.

How do I get the photo to show the detail in dark black clothing?

Is this a dynamic range limitation?

Geez, I was about to do something constructive tonite when, in typical habit, I had to check the various forums to see if anything happened in the last 6 or so hours.
Good thing I did!

Looks like most Pentax distributors have quietly jacked-up prices on almost all lenses, by huge amounts in many cases!
OTOH, body prices have dropped a bit, and a considerable amount on the 645D.

I managed to find the 2 FA series primes I wanted to get, still available at original prices and quickly dealt another blow to my battered credit card. Doing so is saving me about $350 or more on 2 lenses.

Is this just Pentax trying to make a better profit for their retail partners or is this something they'd do a little in advance of releasing a FF body that would need to use some of that now very much costlier FF-capable glass?

If you have a Pentax habit you need to feed, tonite's a shopping nite.

I have always had great service from the center in Nj but recently used the one in Newport news va, I have to say I was sorely disapointed.
Ps I recently joined the CPS platinum program and honestly I got better service out on NJ as a Joe Schmo than i did as a CPS member in VA.
I had to reship to get it properly fixed and this time asked for NJ as my service center. Result, received same day, being repaired, will be back in 2 days!!!!
I just wondered what other experiences have been with other service centers and is one recommended over another?

I bought a Yongnuo YN560-II and it doesn't seem to want to accept my camera (6D). I have a pair of RF-603 triggers, which are also Yongnuos. I have one under my flash hot shoe and on on top of my camera's hot shoe. The triggers both light up and confirm connection, I can even fire my shutter using the trigger off camera. The flash is on, but won't fire. Is this a problem on my side or the camera not being compatible?

Hello, was wondering if anyone has had experience having replaced the LCD cover on the rear LCD on a 5D Mark III? Unfortunately mine got scratched, it's just cosmetic but when I am outdoors the scratch will catch light in certain cases so it's more annoying than anything else. I called Canon and they could not say if it could be done, they only said I could send it in and they would provide an estimate. I had read somewhere that the Mark III LCD and cover are actually integrated and the only way to replace it would be to exchange the LCD assembly completely. Can anyone confirm this?

My local lens surgeons worked wonders on my dropped Sigma 18-50. For £84 the brought it back to life and calibrated it better than it was new (Aj Johnstones BTW, for anybody in Scotland)

Before I got the repair I asked forum users for advice on a viking burial...

So CRoomies! Suppose you have a dead lens. The AF has banged, some spores have been spotted or you get the dreaded BC or ERR99.

How would you give your glass a worthy last hurrah or send off?

Anyone recorded the hdmi out from the new firmware update from 5d3?

What recorder worked best so far?

How was the footages?

Was there anymore 'headroom' for want of a better term in terms of color grading footage?

Can ya'll post some footage taken both ways off your camera for comparison for us to look at?


TIA,

cayenne

Anyone tried latest firmware from Canon out with latest ML?


Thanks in advance,

cayenne

We apologize for the interruption due to maintenance of the forum. I'm hoping it won't happen again, but there are more things that need attention.

Hello there,

I have just on question. Why the Super Telephoto lens doesn't have UV filter?

Buydig, an authorized dealer, are selling it on ebay for $799:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Canon-EF-100mm-f-2-8L-Macro-IS-USM-Lens/330917017997?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item4d0c30f98d

Canon 60D. Press to watch on Vimeo

First post here!

I have a Canon 1100D body. I purchased a 50mm F1.8 lens

I put into Apperture Priority mode
I can't change the apperture settings by looking into the viewfinder - the options just isn't there

When I turn the wheel to change, it doesn't do anything
The only way I can change is to change to Liveview screen and then press the shutter half way down
ONLY then can I change the apperture

What am I doing wrong?

Thanks


Omar

To all 5D III owners,
How do you like the AF speed of Canon 85L II on your 5D III?

I'm thinking adding this lens to my gear.

Thank you,
Dylan

We want more, MOAR!!!

Build us a camera that has more of this and less of that, and much more of this, and could do this with only a little bit of that, and doesn’t need that in order to do this. And it must cost less than this and definitely less than that… And another thing: we want it now, we want it yesterday and we will want more tomorrow, and all the demands will have changed by then so stay awake!

[With apologies to Billy Connolly!]

Hi all,

Sorry to bother you with another ''comparison'', but i have a few questions regarding these lenses

At the moment i have the 500 f4 IS and 1.4 converter , but have a chance to sell it and get the 300 f2.8 IS II for the same price.


Some concerns i have are :

The 500 f4 is a little bit heavy ( even tho i have no problems handholding it for several hours when walking around looking for birds), It has 2 stops IS , and utilizes only 1 cross type sensor on my 1dmkiv , with or without the converter.

The 300 f2.8 IS II with 1.4 converter is quite a bit shorter than the 500(420vs500, means 41.7% more pixels on target with the 500mm lens), but it looks to be sharper center and mid frame than the bare 500 @ f4

(http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=117&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=739&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=1&APIComp=0)

Also, it can use all 39 cross type sensors on my 1dmkiv , so the autofocus accuracy should be a little bit better when tracking? ( The speed is probably too close to tell ), also it has 4 stops of IS which combined with the lower weight and smaller size should make it easier to keep my focus point on target and maybe resulting in more 'keepers'




The 500 with 1.4 converter and the 300 with 2xIII converter, the 500 will have 36%more pixels on target and probably slightly faster AF, IQ seems to be on par, with maybe a slight edge to the 300 f2.8

(http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=117&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=3&API=3&LensComp=739&CameraComp=453&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=2&APIComp=4)



At 910mm equivalent i am having a pretty hard time getting a high keeper rate when shooting BIF handheld, the trade off in weight and better IS vs less auto focus speed and maybe slight loss in IQ could be worth it if the keeper rates vastly improves.

Main goal is for safaris , it's hard to judge what focal length is ideal, a 500 can be great if you need to keep your distance when following cheetahs on a hunt, but when following dogs on a hunt it becomes useless (Atleast i cannot keep 650mm equivalent on target when sitting in a car going 40ish km/h) , Birds are everywhere and most of the time too far or too small, so having a lot of FL can help
Although I seem to be a bit focal length obsessed , in 10 years all the safari picture i have will be indistinguishable for i only have ''headshots'' and not enough pictures of animals in their surroundings.

You never know what you will see , it comes down to luck most of the time...(having a good guide and tracker can help), the only guarantee are birds hehe



Is there anyone that has experience with the 1mkiv comparing 1cross type vs 39? ( most of the time I like to use only the center point(with expansion sometimes) , and just when i completely lost the target use the normal focus to re aquire, normal focus set to af-on, center point to *

Other than the digital picture crops, any people who have used the old 500 and new 300 that can quantify some of the things on paper? ( AF speed, the difference when looking in the viewfinder )


A 650d or potentially 7d/7dmk2 will be the second body i will use, with the 70-200 (112-320 equivalent)
With the option to use 1.4/2 converters on the lenses and switch bodies between them

Does anybody know, if it would be technically possible that the AF is working on an aperture of 8 at other Canon Cameras too?

Some month ago, the GO where I am working bought some Cams for documentation. There we were definitifly told, that it is technically impossible to use the AF on an lens thath has an beginning aperture of >=8 on the 5D MK3. - Now it is possible. Interresting.

A friend of mine has guilt tripped me into shooting his wedding. I warned him, over and over again, that I'm not a pro, can't guarantee anything, nor do I have the talent and equipment that a professional shooter does, but he insisted.

Still, I want to do the best I can. To that end, I have money to get one nice lens before I go to the wedding. It's going to be in the evening and the reception at night. Both out doors. What would you suggest?

My Current Gear: 5D MKIII and T2i EF-S 18-155, EF-S 55-250, EF 50 1.8, EF 80 1.8, EF 28 2.8 IS, and 24-105 F/4 L , Speedlight 430EX

Reading previous threads there seems to be a reluctance to use screen protectors. I find that my rear LCD screen has smudges on it - in the upper left corner where my nose presses against the screen. And occasionally I find a small scratch on the LCD (okay, the screen protector on the LCD screen).

There are 2 types of screen protectors - film and glass. The film is available for the 1DX while the glass is not (at least not at B&H).

Any other recommendations?

Hey I've been looking at the EdMika conversions and I want to ask your opinions about awesome lenses that I could use with my AE-1 Program and my 5D2. Also if I get a focus screen for the 5D2 will that aid focusing with older FD lenses?

is the digic 5 a better performer than dual digic 4s? Considering selling my 7D while it still has value and picking up a 70D, when it comes out of course. I'm interested in how the two compare specifically in processing power for different features in magic lantern.

I'm sure I wont see a difference when running stock firmware, but will i see a difference when running ML?

Hey, I'm in Asia so it's morning here. Later today, I will try long exposure for the first time. I went to pick up a grey filter last week, but they only had 3-stop filters. I only picked up one and didn't give it more thought. Now having read up a bit on it, I see that I would probably need more. I won't by another filter today so my question to you is the following, can I stack a CPL to the grey filter?

I will anyway give it a try, but are there any particular things I need to look out for?

I own a 24-70L and want to get it serviced by Canon...focus ring seems to need tightening and I feel after 4 years regular (not pro) use it just is time.
Any suggestions?
Is the only way to send it directly to Canon or are there better options?
What costs would I have to expect?

Thanks, people

I have a dear friend who has asked me to shoot video for a professional marketing gig however as a stills photographer, this is something I'm not comfortable with and I've told them. :-\

I'm in the San Francisco Bay Area and this project will most likely be somewhere near the East Bay Area or if you have a studio you can work in, location may not be an issue.

Any recommendations for a videographer you can share with me would be much appreciated. Send me your info and I'll link you two up.

Thanks,
Mark

Hi, I couldn't find any other threads with this issue, but if there is one, feel free to just direct me there.

I've got a pair of 600EX-RT's and was trying to use them with my Fuji X100s, but when I put one in the hotshoe and one off-camera, trying to get only the off-camera one to fire, I get a big nothing. When I set both to fire, they fire in sequence instead of at the same time, with the on-camera one firing first. They're obviously communicating...

Now, I don't *think* this is due to me not knowing what I'm doing. When I put these on my (recently stolen) 5D or my T2i, in the same configuration, they work as expected.

I've tried this with a variety of settings, including changing channels, ETTL, manual, adjusting groups, etc. with no luck.

It seems that I get the pop-pop sequential flash also when I hit the test button on the master as well. Even if I pull it entirely off my Fuji.

Can anyone explain to me what's going on here? Am I doing something wrong?

Thanks.