First time using reflectors and flash off the camera...

what do you think? what can I do to improve my pictures?


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Thanks!

hi friends,
planning to purchase Zeiss ZE Lenses 18mm T 3.5, 35MM T2, 50mm T 1.4, 85mm T 1.4 ranges to fulfill my primes for 5D Mark 3 i have following lenses
14mm(f2.8), 50mm(f1.8),24-105(f4L),70-200(f2.8L),
vintage lenses :
Promura MC 135mm f/2.8, Bell & Howell macro zoom lens 70-150mm 1:3.8 (using with adopter)

looking for your valuable suggestions.

ms khan

I used to like this lens more. Then I began to appreciate prime lenses. All of a sudden this zoom becomes mediocre. It's performance is average but it's versatile. I am debating whether to sell it to fund a sigma 35. But I'm afraid I'll regret selling a general zoom. Plus it's not worth as much as when I bought it. For those of you who own this zoom, do you still use it very much? I realize it's unfair to compare a zoom with a prime but I promise myself not to add a lens without selling one. What a dilemma...

For all you professional photographers out there, do you usually carry around a back up? (such as a point&shoot/mirrorless/iphone)?

I currently have a dilemma whether i should spend some cash on a decent back up or suck it up and use my iphone. Heres the funny part... I have attempted both of these routes and there's no clear answer (at least for me) because i usually end up whipping out the 5d3.

As for using an iphone, I quite enjoyed this while i was travelling in vegas earlier this year. I was at a somewhat restrictive convention show and they wouldn't let me shoot with my dslr unless i had a media pass. With my iphone being the only camera i had in my pocket, i used that with ease and grace along with some instagram filters to satisfy my needs. However, at certain instances, i did long for some manual controls and DOF....

In terms of point and shoot/mirrorless, I have the Nikon V1 with several lenses (10mm, 18.5mm), however, im kinda feeling this is a money trap and maybe i should swap it for a cheaper point and shoot alternative. I had originally purchased this with the intent of doing some discrete street photography, however, my style has changed to the point where it is not needed anymore. With technology constantly upgrading itself, i am considering selling this while its still worth something and get something decent (ie Sony RX100) before it depreciates to nothing. Yes, i know the sony will also depreciate, however, at its current price, it offers better performance and versatility in comparison to my Nikon at a comparable price.

I guess it has been hard for me to decided because my full frame 5d3 does everything so much better, however, i realized something like this restricts me from the few professional sporting events and concerts I'm planning on going to this year...

What your opinion on this?

For any current or former 1D3 users...

I just picked up a used 1D3 body. Note this is my first 1-series body.

Is it me or do the AF points in the viewfinder fade a bit unless you are looking ON DEAD CENTER through the viewfinder? Compared to other EOS cameras, it seems to need more 'directional' viewing. I have used 20D, 40D, 5D II, 5DIII.

Also, seems that its harder to see the entire contents of the viewfinder like the exposure meter on the right side while wearing my glasses than with the other EOS cameras I have used. If I take my glasses off and wear contact lenses, I can see it much better. First time I must say that I can't see the entire perimeter of a viewfinder.

Thanks

I just got the new 24-70 to replace my Mark I version of the lens. Here is my question, given that the new lens has a diameter of 5mm more, does that mean that more light enters the lens? I presume yes. So, following that presumption, shooting the same subject in the same lighting at the same aperture and ISO speed, does the 82mm lens need less time to properly expose the subject? If it does, it follows that the new lens is better in low light, correct?

Unfortunately, I sold the Mark I lens the day before the Mark II arrived in the mail so I was unable to test the theory.

First attempt at stop action photos of bursting water balloons. Please let me know what you think!
http://photos.benchernicoff.net/Other/Water-Balloons/29086650_QmN6JZ#!i=2475720898&k=zpTcBJW

I recently ordered a Yongnu OC-E3 ettl cord from the other side of the world because it's so much cheaper than Canon. After some time having it on a flash bracket the metal base plate on top of the adapter where the real flash goes started to wobble, and recently it came completely off - the metal screws with the hotshoe were torn out of the plastic plate.

This doesn't come as a complete surprise since having a heavy 600rt flash mounted in an angle and walking around with this puts quite a torque on the base plate of the ettl cord...

... My question is: Is the Canon original any better, or are there sturdier 3rd party oc-e3 ettl cords? The Yongnu otherwise is fine, but the metal screws into plastic is just cheap and cannot take any strain at all (at least my copy).

Edit: Added pictures with torn off base plate

Can someone advice me where to buy the Canon 24-70 f/2.8 MKII in California? Should be close to Van Nuys. I am not there to test the lens myself. So, it is an order by maildelivery and addressed to my friends. They won't be able to test it, they just take it abroad.
In that context it must be a reliable shop and with some sharp prices.

Thanks!

A couple months ago I finally got around to editing a bunch of mountaineering footage together into something interesting. I gave a talk on photography and mountaineering and this is what I closed the talk with. I hope you like! Was shot with all Canon gear:

https://vimeo.com/56002335

Hi everyone. I have a passion for photography that I want to eventually develop into a side business. For the time being I want to focus primarily on family portraits,kids, maternity and eventually weddings. I currently have a t3i but will go FF within a year or so. My question is how practical is it to have a kit with just prime lenses for that type of work. And what recommendations on specific lenses. My next purchase is a 85mm 1.8 and I'm not sure where else from there.

A little background. The reason for only wanting primes is nerve damage to my left arm that makes quick and accurate zooming and focusing difficult,especially on l lenses with narrow zoom barrels. Any suggestions would be appreciated

HI I am new to off camera Lighting techniques. I own a 580 EXII. I am planning to try my hand on off camera lighting. Initially thought of getting the cable as a start up. Then saw the Youngnou YN-622C wireless trigger. So thought of jumping straight to wireless and skip the wired part (not sure how good an idea that is. thought of saving some money in the long run). I have plans to get a 430 ExII later. My Question is, if I use YN-622C, can I have the 580 be an off camera master and wirelessly trigger the 430 ExII or do I need to get a third YN-622C for the 430 exII?

Hey. New user here! Just sold my Pentax K5 to get the 6D and I love it!!
One question I have (tried search, but no results from my phone) after taking a photo, and seeing the instant review, how do I instantly zoom in without hitting the magnify button first? I just got in the habit of instantly reviewing and zooming photos, and it may sound silly, but an extra button press is annoying haha.

Thanks for your help!

Anybody have any side by side comparisons of Zeiss lenses against Canon?
I'm mostly looking for Zeiss 15mm 2.8 to anything wide made by Canon.

I purchased a 60D body only so I could save a few bucks and roll it into some lenses. I borrowed a kit lens from a friend, but it needs to be returned once I get my own glass. I would really like to get 2 lenses, a all purpose walk around like a 24-105 or 24-70 range, and a telephoto zoom something like a 70-200ish. Thing is I am looking for something better then the kit lens, but doesn't need to be L grade. I have seen many, many, many suggestion for L grade glass but as of right now if I went L grade I could only do 1 lens. I don't have anything again L grade, but this stuff is mainly for learning how to use the camera and learn to take good pictures. Later on as I learn more, yes I would upgrade to L glass. Right now I just shoot whatever just to get to know the camera, and that is pretty much just going to be used for fun not to make money. I am up for any suggestion you guys have.

Thank you

Also if you want to make a recommendation for a tripod I have been looking at those as well, and would like to keep the budget around 250$ for the tripod and head.

I'm still getting used to my camera and have got good results with the practice. As some of y'all know, I have been inquiring about the 70-200 f/2.8 IS II. I could get this lens but it would be the only lens I could get for football season and I believe I need a good wide angle lens to get pics and videos of the stadium, interviews, and shots at certain spots of the town I'll be visiting. So far, the IS II is still around $2,100 at Best Buy and havent had any luck finding a good deal on a refurbished one. So, I had been set on a new non IS version that I could get at the end of May or a little earlier. However, I have seen on Craigslist about the f/2.8 IS Version I and these lenses are selling around $1350-$1600. A little more than a non IS version (and used to boot) but the IS could come in handy when I need to do video of football action, band performances, etc.

Also, since I'm still learning how to apporpriately use aperture, what is the biggest difference between f/4 and f/2.8 and how would the extra stop benefit me? I believe that it would but I'm not quite sure how. The stadiums I'll be shooting at will vary on lighting quality so f/2.8 could come in handy. I had some trouble with my kit lens trying to take shots at a soccer game in the evening. The close up shots with the lens at mid length with f/4.5 were good but when I focused on far action it was grainy and looked too dark. Could beit operator error. Probably is operator error but the 28-135 kit lens may not be built for sports.

I'm not sure how good f/4 can be. I dont know. Maybe f/4 can totally suit my needs. I was thinking of just buying an f/4 non IS 70-200 for $500 and just use this one for now but the f/2.8 non IS is available and I can get it.

Many of y'all had experiences with f/4 and f/2.8 70-200 L lenses. What is the biggest difference between them. What makes the IS II that much better than the IS I? Does the non IS take better shots than the IS? And if I go with the non IS after all, is there software that can remove the camera shake. When i took video of my nephews baseball game with my kit lens, i did two clips. One with IS and one without IS. I also did it for the soccer game I was at and the non IS shots gave me a headache. I thought I was holding the camera firm but it was still too shaky and my family couldnt enjoy it but the IS shots were much more manageable and the video was good for a 7D.


Thanks for all your input. I promise this will be the last time I ask about the 70-200 L lenses. Big decision that I dont want to regret. I'll definitely let you all know which one I get and be glad to show samples. I really need to upload some sample shots I have now just to get some feedback. I'll do so in the near future (all shots I have are with the kit lens).

Hey everyone, I'm sure this question has been asked a million times before, but I couldn't find anything specific too my scenario. I'm looking for someone that has extensive experience with both Canon's 600EX-RT and PocketWizard's Flex TT1/TT5/AC3. PW's system is unreliable at best in my experience, with the AC3 failing to control zones properly at times. I shoot primarily weddings, engagements, and couples.

Here's my current setup.
Canon 5D Mark III
Canon 7D
Canon 580 EX II
2x Canon 480 EX II (I mainly use these as the range is much longer due to no interference)
3x PocketWizard Flex TT5
PocketWizard AC3 Zone Controller

I'm looking into selling all the flashes/PocketWizards on ebay (I should get between $1100-1200 for everything) and replacing them with 3 Canon 600 EX-RTs or 2 600 EX-RTs and ST-E3-RT. What is everyone's recommendations? How are the Canon's to work with as far as convenience, control, and reliability go? I would like to get rid of the 430 EX IIs so I have a more powerful flash, but I can't use all 580EX II's due to the RF interference. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Canon Rebel T5i (700d) Hands-On

it´s sad.. but well ... it´s the truth.

Hi everybody, now i have 24-105mm and tamron 90mm i sold my 50mm 1.4 yesterday
iam looking for buy 24-70mm tamron and 70-200mm 2.8 is usm
do you think the tamron is a good choice?

Greetings folks!

Looking to accumulate a slow growing collection of lenses for run/gun work as well as some work in controlled environments for interviews etc. for documentary work.

What do you guys think of the following:

1. 24-70
2. 24-105
3. 70-200

Which is the best/most useful for a starting zoom. I don't think my Tamron 17-50 cuts it, unless I need to give it a second chance since I'll be upgrading to the 5D MKIII (from 60d)

Also this is what I already have:

A. Canon 50 1.8
B. Tamron 17-50 2.8
C. Samyang 85 1.8

I'm looking to do most of the video/interview run and gun stuff by myself so that should be kept in mind.

Thanks!

JM

I wonder if Canon will do anything about the advanced high end point and shoot market that Fuji is just killing it in and even Nikon has the coolpix A that is OK. This is Fuji's 2nd camera in this segment and still nothing from Canon. I just don't find that the G15 or S110 are really a decent comparison to the Fuji X20 in so many ways. I think something more enthusiast focused would be awesome but it doesn't seem like Canon want's to try anything new and different in a big way. The 2/3" sensor in the X20 and the f/2-f/2.8 zoom lens are HUGE. And somehow, Fuji managed to make the images extremely sharp. You can download some Fuji X20 files in a review at: http://learningcameras.com/reviews/9-other/128-fuji-x20-hands-on-review
Has anyone seen images this sharp from the Canon G15 or S110?

There is a review on youtube for it as well:
Fuji X20 Hands On Review

So the new Fuji X100s looks awesome so far. Reviews all say it is unbelievable and it is sold out everywhere. Check out the low light results too...look better than the 5D3! I wonder why Canon doesn't try to compete in this market of enthusiasts who love the manual controls in a smaller body with good low light and AF performance. The only problem (if you call it that) with the X100 is that it is a fixed lens. Canon could make an interchangeable lens body if they wanted to I'm sure with whatever sensor they use in the new 70D (hopefully a new one). The EOS M just wasn't close to competing on this level. Hopefully a new Canon sensor comes with the 70D and I don't care how many MP it is if it looks great in low light. 16-18MP is fine but give me great IQ, great low light results, and figure out how to control banding in the shadows.
Take a look at the X100s low light results at 6400 ISO...you can hardly see grain even in the raw files. The review which has the RAW & full size JPEG files is: http://learningcameras.com/reviews/9-other/137-fuji-x100s-review

And there is a video review on youtube:
Fuji X100s Hands On Review & Test

Maybe this has been discussed prior. With the latest deal, I picked up my first Canon 50 1.4. In autofocus, it's great. However, one thing that bothers me is the focus ring... Whether I am focusing manually or full time focus in autofocus, I noticed that there was a friction when I turn the focus ring. Along with the friction, I can hear some sound as the focus ring turns. Unlike the 24-105 or 70-200 or the shorty 40 where the focus ring was smooth like fluid and silent, this one has a drag and some sound as though it was rubbing against something. I realize that the 50 1.4 does not have USM ring type like the other ones. For instance, without evening turning on the camera, if I hold the camera on one hand and then start turning the focus ring on the lens, I can hear the sound and feel the drag. Is this normal or is this a bad copy?

Hello,
I just bought a 6D and I was looking for a focus screen to help with manual focus. I am getting mixed information about the compatibility; some say that any focus screen that work for the 5D MkII will work and other say that none will. Can anybody help me? If it can help, I am looking for a split-sreen focus screen like this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180-horizontal-Split-Image-Focus-Focusing-Screen-For-Canon-EOS-5D2-5D-Mark-II?item=271183492503&cmd=ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.m7&_trkparms=algo%3DLVI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D4%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D7174353032350245585.
Thank you very much!