Not sure why this hasn't made it yet to this forum:

http://photorumors.com/2013/04/22/for-10-consecutive-years-canon-has-the-1-spot-for-digital-cameras-with-interchangeable-lenses/#more-42034

Maybe Canon does know what they are doing.

Only a week old, and after i take a photo sometimes it completely freezes. Even if i turn it off it still frozen. This happens straight after i take the picture and the preview is showed on LCD. On top of the camera screen it says " error " So my only solution is to take out the battery and back in.

Any thoughts?

Hello All,

Just looking for some feedback on an edit I just finished.

Here it is

Hampton Experts Bay House on Vimeo

Does any one know what error code 9100 is & how to reset it on a canon 9500 printer. It took the paper in to the printer on the single sheet tray & started to print & then the blue on/off light flashed twice along with the orange light which flashes 10 or 12 times & then goes throughout the same sequence again. I've tried truing it off and unplugged it from the mains supply but it still does the same. The paper is locked down in the printer like its ready to print.
any ideas & help would be appreciated. THANKS
Chris

So I just picked up this lens. Um, it is sick.

My point of posting is to just bring up an aspect of the lens' design. The underside of the lens has like a soft-touch coating on it. I was just surprised when I first held it because no other Canon lens I have ever used had this finish. And I have never read about it in any reviews on the interwebs. Any other Canon lenses have this finish?

Also- is there a way to disable full-time manual focus on a 5DII?

I'll post some first shots from this new guy on the coming days. I have a feeling it is gonna stay stuck to one of my bodies for a long while

wow, wow, wow!

http://zeissimages.com/showreplies.php?qid=950

It does make me even more anxious to see what Sigma and this 135mm 1.8 OS might offer.

Good afternoon, I have a question for the group regarding the EF mount on the 100-400mm L. I just received the lens on Saturday and tested it out this weekend. I am very impressed with the optical performance of the copy I received. Will enjoy having the extra reach on my 5D3.

However, one issue that I noticed immediately is the difficulty in getting the proper alignment when mounting this lens to the camera. For a pretty simple system (align the red dots, insert lens to mount, rotate clockwise) this lens required 5 or 6 attempts to get aligned and mounted each time I put it on the camera. The lens hardware seemed to want to go in the mount in a non-normal orientation. I've never experienced this with any other lens on this or previous cameras I've owned.

Looking at the bayonet mount, I could not detect anything different than my other lenses which would cause these alignment issues - but I'll look closer again today after work.

My question to the brain trust is this: Has anyone else had issues with the EF mount on this specific lens (or specifically with a 5D Mark iii)? I hate to send back a lens which is optically good if this is a universal attribute of this specific lens. However, I don't want to keep it if this is not a common issue and risk damaging the mount on my 5D3.

Thanks in advance for any experience you all can share.

Hey all,

First time poster here, but I have been a lurker for a while now. I have been dealing with the internal debate about my current lenses, and if I should try to condense my set into 2-3 lenses.

What I shoot:
-Portraits (mostly animal)
-Landscapes/nature
-Macro
-Street

My bag:

Canon 7d
Canon 70-200m F/4L IS
Canon 50mm F/1.8
Canon 40mm F/2.8 STM
Canon 10-22mm F3.5-4.5 USM

I mostly use my 70-200 and my 40, but it is nice to have the 10-22 around every once in a while. I have had a hard time getting results that I like with a wide-angle, but that is more than likely because I am just using it poorly.

My question is: sell the 50, 40 and 10-22 and put that toward a 24-70(or anything else in that range)??

I love my primes. I hate having so many lenses to choose from when I go out.

Thoughts?

One of my pet peeves is when someone new to photography will ask someone not-so-new to photography: "what's the best landscape lens" and the more experienced photographer will start to recommend all sorts of ultra-wide lenses. ANY LENS can be a landscape lens, from a 15 to a 600!

I took this last night of Mt Adams...hoped to get some meteor shower but the moon was far too bright, it did light up the glaciers very nicely though.

5D Mk III
85mm f/1.2 II
f/2.8, 5s, ISO 1600

I tried a bunch of different f/#, ISO combos: f/1.2, ISO 400; f/2.0 ISO 800, f/2.8 ISO 1600, and f/4.0 ISO 3200...this had the best overall image quality.

I wanted to share my first film shot on the Canon C100 Cinema Cam. I shot this whole thing in one weekend for a 48 Hour Film Festival using only 3 Zeiss ZE lenses: 15mm 2.8, 35mm 1.4, and 85mm 1.4. 90% of it ended up on the 35mm.

Hope you enjoy it!

https://vimeo.com/64573912

Hi,

I send one short movie of the Etna. I make movie with timelapse.

I take the images at 13 April 2014.

My cameras EOS 5D III and 1Dx. You watch on HD (1080)...Link http://fredericsiffert.blogspot.ch/2013/04/pour-le-souvenir-les-eruptions-de-letna.html

I have been dreaming of a TS-E lens ever since I discovered they exist. I guess I am going to get one for my travel next month to Venice, Florence, Siena. I would probably opt for the 17mm version. So far I have been using my 16-35mm II when inside towns to do 'architecture' photography. What do you guys think 17mm or 24mm - both would be a bit cheeky...

Hi,

My new 24-70 II arrived today. However, I am less than pleased with the difficulty I am having mounting the lens. The lens seems to require more effort while mounting it onto both the 5D3 as well as the 6D. While turning the lens I am almost feel a slight grinding while turning the lens to lock it in.

I've never faced any such problem with any of my other lenses ... this doesn't seem to be a perfect fit for the cameras somehow. Anybody else face a similar problem? Suggestions ....

Thanks in advance ... J.R.

PS: I do have the option to return the lens if it doesn't work out. I'm kinda scared it'll mess up the bodies. I've just left it on the 5D3 for now (it is working fine).

I am about to "invest" in a new smartphone, and one of only reasons for going with a smartphone instead of a "phone-phone" is the aspect of using it to control my 5D mk3.
I am interested in both tethered and wireless options, but I am only finding sparse information pertaining to the options available to the different platforms ie. IOS, Android and windows phone 8
Any advice?
I am especially interested in finding out more about windows phone capabilities as I really like the Nokia Lumia (when actually using it as a phone) and find the apple to expensive
In the end, Android may be the way to go...

Good day,

I have a question. Mainly I did some panning shots (car in motion type of thing) using 1dx + 24-70II. Overall it was ok...but really had to try more than once before getting something usable and focus speed was somehow not "responsive" (don't want to start a debate, but I was Nikon D4 ...and these are the kind of issues I never had).

Today I was at something like ISO 100; shutter speed: 1/40; aperture f16 (naturally depending on available light).
In terms of focus, I put it to servo (continuous) + 1 focus point + (+2 on sensitivity tracking).


What kind of settings would you guys recommend in terms of Focus point and Focus CASE ? and any other thing to watch out for ?.

thx

Hi Guys,

Thank you for your attention.

I have a query. I have a canon 60D with Canon 10-22mm , Canon 50mm 1.8ii, Tamron 17-50 OS VC 2.8 and Canon 100mm 2.8 macro, i have recently purchased the Canon 5d mk 3. Now my ideal setup would be to get a 17-40mmL , 24-70L 2.8 ii, 70-200L 2.8 ii and possibly a 50mm 1.4 however all i can afford is the 1 lens for now. Which would be more ideal and i plan on shooting events , engagements , family portraits both indoors and outdoors but mainly people. could you advise on the next choice on lens as i am torn between the 24-70 or the 70-200. I know i have the middle range covered on the crop sensor however thinking of the 24-70 on a full frame could that be doubling up and just go with the 70-200 ? Your thoughts are much appreciated thank you !

Bass

I pulled my 100 mm f2.8 out and was trying some new ideas about work related macros and found little dots on the front lens. I used "breath" and a micro fiber but couldn't get them off. Must be more than 40 I can see and sprinkled liberally around my lens. The shot shows some of them in the red circles. I ordered Zeiss LIQUID CLEANER and that hasn't arrived yet. I've been known to stick that lens in close but I can't remember what could have caused the spots. None-the-less they're there. Should I send this off to canon to clean or try the zeiss cleaner first? I'm worried about removing the coatings on the lens with the cleaner. The cleaner is from B&H and it was recommended. Any thoughts about having canon cleaning it and secondly, using the zeiss cleaner? I've ordered a B+W 67mm XS-Pro Clear UV Haze with Multi-Resistant Nano Coating in the interim which was recommended on the forums.

Thanks for any input.

I just moved this thread, because i had previously posted it in the wrong forum.

I am trying to build the ultimate setup for photographing a collection of art. Mostly large oil paintings (3feet x 4feet +/-) with significant impasto (thickly applied paint that has depth and 3D shape). There is also hand painted dinner and dessert plates that are glossy.

After much research and trail runs my list of goals are as follows:

1) Maximize sharpness
2) Maximize contrast
3) Maximize resolution
4) minimize vignetting
5) minimize distortion
6) minimize chromatic aberration
7) minimize out of focus fringing
8 ) minimize camera shake AND camera vibration
9) minimize glare,
10) reproduce accurate color
11) maximize uniformity

unknowns:
what is the best angles to put lights so that the paintings self shadowing looks the best (45, 45 copy table style is often recomended, but i think it produces unnatural looking shadows on the paint structure)
should lights be large or small ( soft shadows or sharp shadows )


so far this is the setup that I am thinking will produce the best results:

CAMERA: Canon 5DMK3 (currently owned) on a sturdy tripod or copy table
Set to mirror lockup and shooting raw

Lens: I have been using a Canon 50mm MK2 1.8 lens with great results but I am considering upgrading to 100mm 2.8L macro IS, or 100mm 2.8 macro, or 135mm 2.8L. Obviously in this situation a "flat field" prime lens will produce the best results. I am expecting something like a 5.6 or so aperture will be the best.

Color treatment: xrite color checker passport <- for color calibration (highly recommended). Use color calibration to get color correct, and don't do any other tweaks.

LIGHTING:
Currently this is the most nagging question for me. i am using lowelpro continuous lights which have a high color rendering index. I am experimenting with one or two set with a diffusion umbrella at about 45 degrees. And one or two lights without diffusion to produce sharper soft shadowing. But im worried that the shutter speed is just too long and also it produces uneven lighting and camera vibration is still present even on a tripod. I am thinking that possibly i could switch to using strobes witch would reduce vibration. I am also considering the wesscot grid flash modifier for creating highly directional and uniform lighting or moving the strobes very far away and not using any modifiers.

ALSO, i am wondering if i should be shooting in a black room or white room.

I am also doing what I can to reduce flare by looking at the histogram and goboing the lights just to make sure i am not getting any issues from off frame lights spilling into the lens.

Do any of the canon rumor members have any advice or experience to share for photographing paintings that have thick paint?

Anyone with a 17-40L that can check theirs real quick for me?

On the refurb. copy I recently received from Canon, the inner barrel 'knocks' (moves) when the lens is at a FL of 40mm. You can hear it if you shake the camera around, but also induce it when applying some pressure with the index finger to the front lens element ring and moving it around.

I noticed this when I went to clean the front lens element with a microfiber cloth and solution as mine came with a smudge on the front element.

It only happens @ around 40mm (when the barrel re-extends at the longer end of the range.

Thank you

I wanted to share these shots mostly shots on a canon 50mm f1.2. I found shooting from either directly right above or from the side best with an open aperture the best way to bring life to these abandoned dolls. These shots were taken at a miniature village I stumbled upon north of Sydney. The guy had spent years and years building this as an attraction for people to pay to see, however he overlooked one simple thing.... weather. the whole village was wiped out by a hail storm and then Australia's sun didn't help. Over the years I kept going back to document the demise of this once glorious race of Barbies !! I've some on my website http://www.jeremypark.com.au, but have shot near to a hundred images there... so let me know if you want me to post any more.

we set up a black pop up reflector and ring flash off camera on a street corner in Sydney. Stopping the more interesting people for 5 or so shots, trying to find the most interesting feature to bring out of them. I put some on my website http://www.jeremypark.com.au if you're interested.

Hey,

I just moved to Florida 5 months ago (Naples). I am not aware of any camera store in the vicinity and I was thinking of selling a couple of things (body and lens). Beside ebay, craigslist, could any local advise on places to go to ? (for info I am thinking of selling a canon 50D, canon 70-300L ans buy a canon 70-200 2.8).

Thanks !

Just wondering if I placed a very thin 3rd party extension tube on the camera and then attached the lens/converters, would I be able to focus at F8 or higher?

Hello all, I'd love to get some feedbacks on the shoot. What would you do differently and why?

http://www.occhio-photography.com/macgyver-we-are/

thanks a lot!

cheers,
r.