Hi I have recently upgraded from a 5Dc to a 6D and currently have:

Canon 24-70L Mark 1
Sigma 15 - 30
Canon 40mm

Looking at buying some new lens. Options I'm considering...selling the 24-70 (Great Lens but too heavy with 6D) and buying 85mm 1.8 and 70 - 200 F4L. (Don't have a big budget, hoping to use the money from the 24 - 70 and put something with it)

Mainly shoot portraits and Architecture and will be doing some courses over the next few months so will branch out to street and landscapes etc.

Also considering the 24-105mm in lieu of the above as its lighter

Any thought would be greatly received

Cheers!

Sorry to post twice I had it in the wrong forum

I am trying out a Canon 50mm 1.4 after having substantial problems with a shifting depth of field on a Sigma 50mm (which I loved in every other respect, it was definitely sharper than this canon in the 1.4 - 2.0 range.).

Trouble is, I'm seeing something with the Canon as well. Basically, if I am within about 8 feet from the focus subject, I get relatively good AF accuracy (allowing for some fluctuation). But the second I hit 10 feet or so, I have to push AFMA to -10 or pretty much every shot is OOF.

Is this to be expected, or did I just get a bum copy? Would appreciate any input here, my return window is closing next week, if I need to get it exchanged or outright returned.

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It seems this lens gets a bad rap on paper(2.8 @ 200), I know test/resolution charts can be brutal, but in real world use mine is pretty darn good.

This is wide open at 200mm. EOS 7D

HELP!!! According to DPReview: "The lens will offer the depth-of-field equivalent of a constant F2.7 on full-frame...". Yes, I have read the other thread on this lens, but still cannot understand the logic behind this. Is this the same basic premise that DOF increases as the sensor size decreases?

I've been on here for a while but I've not seen much about gig photography. I love to shoot gigs but as I'm not a pro on the circuit I find it very difficult to get photo-pit passes. I play in a small punk band so I always shoot the other bands we play with but it's mainly limited to small venues with no stage. anyways, I'm always interested in how people shoot, their techniques and how they handle their cameras in different (often difficult) situations...

sometimes I take photos between the songs...

Here's one from the other night to start the ball rolling:

Band: The Front Bottoms
Venue: Hare & Hounds, Birmingham (small room)
Camera: Canon 5Diii
Lens: 28mm 1.8 / 50mm 1.4
1600 iso
f2
1/125

The low noise of 1dx at high ISO plus the 1.2 f stop of the 85mm lens open up options of night street photography which were difficult before for me.

Am loving it as I love to walk nights where ever I travel and take photos. Many times I am working in day time with my real job and do not get to do any photography.

Am loving it!

http://www.aputure.com/en/product/v_control_usb.php

Just picked up this electonic remote to help me with my focus pull while shooting video / volleyball games. It has 4 presets, which should work well for where on the court I typically shoot (service, digs, sets and kills). I have tested it on my 5d3 (1dIV and 7d) with a variety of lenses, and while when it works, it works well, but occasionally freezes and needs to be turned on / off to reset.

Anyone else try this...??

I have noticed some of you own both the 24-105 & a version of the 24-70. What is the purpose of having both? I am looking at possibly buying a copy of the EF 24-70mm f/2.8 L II USM but I already have a EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM that I got in my 5DIII kit. If I were to own both the only reason I think that I might use the 24-105 over the 24-70 would be if I only wanted to take one lens & I might need a little extra reach. A low key day on vacation with nothing in particular to shoot comes to mind. Other than that why own both? Is that a good enough reason to justify owning both? Does anyone want to buy a gently used 24-105?? (on that last one I'm kidding....kinda)

Thanks in advance!

Hi I have recently upgraded from a 5Dc to a 6D and currently have:

Canon 24-70L Mark 1
Sigma 15 - 30
Canon 40mm

Looking at buying some new lens. Options I'm considering...selling the 24-70 (Great Lens but too heavy with 6D) and buying 85mm 1.8 and 70 - 200 F4L. (Don't have a big budget, hoping to use the money from the 24 - 70 and put something with it)

Mainly shoot portraits and Architecture and will be doing some courses over the next few months so will branch out to street and landscapes etc.

Also considering the 24-105mm in lieu of the above as its lighter

Any thought would be greatly received

Cheers!

So, I was having a discussion with a friend of mine who is also a photographer about the accuracy of DxO Mark.

In general, he was in favour of the immediate report and scoring that DxOMark.com refers to when referring to the 'Camera Sensor Ratings' and the scores they show in their ranking list. I disagreed, claiming that the results shown on the immediate report are, in my opinion, inaccurate.

For reasons not mentioned, we were comparing the Nikon D800 and the Canon 1D X. Specifically, the Dynamic Range.

I claimed that the results that the D800 had a Dynamic Range of 14.4 Evs compared to the 1D X's 11.8 is in part true, but an inaccurate representation of the tests overall results. Here is why:


The reported Dynamic Range of the D800 is 14.4 EV. While this is true, it is a representation of the MAXIMUM possible Dynamic Range at only one ISO, not the actual performance throughout the ISO range.

The Dynamic Range of the D800 drops off at an average rate of .91 Evs every increase in ISO.
Compared to the Canon 1D X, which averages an average .46 Evs loss every increase in ISO.
To put it relatively, .46 Evs is less than the smallest loss the D800 sees in an increase in ISO.

After three increases in ISO, the D800 has lost 2.31 Evs.
Compared to the 1D X that has lost 0.16 Evs.

After five increases in ISO, the 1D X has better Dynamic Range throughout the rest of the ISO.

After nine increases in ISO [limit of D800] the D800 has dropped to half its original Dynamic Range.
Compared to the 1D X that has lost as much as the D800 did after five increases in ISO.

The average Dynamic Range throughout the ISO differs by .33 Evs
1D X - 10.60
D800 - 10.93

The deviation between highest and lowest possible levels of Dynamic Range throughout ISO differs by 90%.
1D X - 3.73
D800 - 7.33


In conclusion: [referring to Dynamic Range throughout ISO]
The results displayed on DxOMark's 'Camera Sensor Ratings' scorecards are in my opinion mis-informative of the actual results shown throughout the camera's performance. While in 'perfect' conditions the Dynamic Range of the D800 WILL outperform the 1D X, the average results, standard deviation and high-to-low end loss of performance would suggest that the 1D X is a better overall performer in regards to Dynamic Range throughout the ISO spectrum.

[These results are based only upon those given by DxOMark. I do not believe DxO is an inaccurate or dishonest company. I posted this only to represent a more in depth look at the results given on the immediate Camera Sensor Ratings scorecard. In my honest opinion, this is why I PERSONALLY believe the results shown on the Scorecard are an inaccurate representation of the camera's overall performance]

Now I can wait for the D800 lovers to tell me how much of a moron I am.

Here is a 'graph' of the results:

1DX

11.77
11.81 +.04
11.74 -.07
11.61 -.13
11.18 -.43
10.37 -.81
9.88 -.49
8.99 -.89
8.08 -.91

Deviation 3.73
Average 10.60

-

D800

14.33
13.65 -.68
12.83 -.82
12.02 -.81
11.12 -.90
10.09 -1.03
9.17 -.92
8.16 -1.01
7.00 -1.16

Deviation 7.33
Average 10.93

Well, the title says it all, that's my debate.
More than likely a prime under 40mm that has IS (like the 28mm F2 IS for example.)
ORRRR the 17-40 F4L.
Being used mainly for video (on tripods and dollys) and on a 5D MkIII.

I need to AFMA two of my primes with a 7D, which are visibly off in AF, but when I MF them they are sharp.

I am trying to decide which product to get to help me do this - FoCal software or the LensAlign product.

Does anyone have experience using either, or ideally both that can provide some help in my decsion?

Here's a question that's been bugging me.

Why does AFMA fix anything? As I understand modern phase detect focus systems, focus is a closed loop sort of thing The camera tells the lens to change it's focus, and when the camera body sees things are in focus (the phase detect sensors say focus has been achieved) it stops moving the focus on the lens.

How can this "go wrong" in a way that AFMA can fix it? The way I see it is the only way things can go wrong is if the sensor is physically in the wrong spot, meaning an "in focus" in the phase detect sensor doesn't correspond to in focus at the sensor.

Where the lens is shouldn't matter?

So what am I missing?

Thanks!

I will be ordering a Canon 600mm lens shortly. I need a tripod and head for it. Below is what I am considering. I am 5'9" and plan on using this for wildlife photography. I like the 4 leg tripod as it is more compact for travel if needed.

Gitzo 3542LS
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/846213-REG/Gitzo_GT3542LS_GT3542XLS_6x_4_SECTION_SYSTEMATIC.html

Whimberly wh-200
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/404536-REG/Wimberley_WH_200_Gimbal_Type_Tripod_Head.html

Is there anything else I need to get going with this? This is all new to me. Knowing that this is expensive is there a cheaper approach that I would not regret down the road?

Thanks for your time.

I'll be going to WDW the end of this summer for my family's first time. I've been to DLand over 30 times and know what to bring there but when you factor in Epcot, Animal Kingdom etc I thought I might ask some seasoned pros. I would probably like to bring 2 lenses (maybe 3 tops) and one would be a 70-200 for the Animal stuff.

Here's what I have:
16-35
24-105
40
50
100 Macro
70-200 2.8

Thanks

Hi all,

I will be traveling to Japan in September for 2 weeks, my first time there. I'll probably spend approximately half the time in Tokyo and the rest of the time somewhere else - within several hours train ride from Tokyo at the most.

Obviously photography will be a prominent aspect of this trip. Can anyone recommend any can't miss subjects or places to visit? Must be public transit accessible, as I will not have a car. How about a good place to base myself for the half spent outside of Tokyo.

Thanks!

Got a new 1D-X. Formatted SanDisk 32 Gb cards in camera, updated EOS Utility from software CD to ver 2.12.3.1. Was able to connect camera via Canon USB cable to Win XP SP3 (32-bit) and set camera preferences and run camera tethered in EOS Utility. BUT, when I go to download images, after just 1 - 2 images I get a "Connection Lost" message, and EOS Utility hangs while saving file. My 50D and 1D4 cameras have no problems transferring files. Because I can set camera prefs and run tethered, I do not suspect the camera's USB port, the cable, or the PC. Swapped the primary CF card to 1D4 -- no problem recording or transferring images, so I don't suspect the card. Tech support at BH advises to put CF card in reader rather than use USB.

Anyone else with this problem? Any suggestions? The new EOS Utility dropped support for my 5D, so I'm using a card reader for that.

Hi

I am borrowing a 1Dx for a shoot next week. For to test and to use exclusively. I have never even held one though I have 1D M4 and 5DM3. Does anyone have advice on settings or can point me to a good reference site on how to the most from this camera.

Thanks

I am considering an upgrade to my equipment

1D M4 -> 1Dx
500F4 IS -> mark 2 version of this lens

Already have the 5DM3 but love the feel of the 1D series, though it is a lot of $ for a body.

Mostly shoot wildlife with the 1D and use the 5D for macro and scenics (the tiny bit I do of city scapes).

Really don't need any new lenses - in fact, I need to have a garage sale and join a 12 step program for lenses and bags.

Originally I was very skepical about the 1Dx but the more I hear about it, the more I am interested. I will be borrowing one for a shoot next week, so I will have hands on experience then.

I could also wait, to see what Canon introduces this fall.

High MP camera (probably a replacement for the 5DM3, not sure if it would be wildlife camera)
200-400 zoom in lieu of long lens

In terms of image quality and out-of-focus rendering or (also?) “bokeh”, does one of these lenses have an edge for portraits and head shots at 100mm?

70-200mm f/2.8L IS II (8 rounded aperture blades)
100mm f/2.8L Macro IS (9 rounded aperture blades)

If there is no substantial/significant/notable/etc. difference between the two lenses at 100mm, I would be inclined to use the 100mm macro on a shoot because it is lighter.

However, if the 70-200mm lens (at 100mm) has some sort of appreciable advantage over the 100mm macro lens, then extra weight would be unimportant to me, and I would use the bigger lens.

From what I believe I have read elsewhere in Canon Rumors , but am unable to find exactly, is that the macro lens is not recommended generally for portraits (?), and that the 70-200mm is preferred, along with primes such as the 135mm f/2L or the 85mm f/1.2L.

Might anyone share thoughts or insight regarding this question?

When announced in late March, the Canon Rebel T5i Camera was forecast to hit the streets at the end of April. Well Canon have surpassed themselves...http://which-canon-camera.com/canon-rebel-t5i-available-for-immediate-shipping/

The new Canon 700D wasn't due until 30 April in USA and first couple of weeks in UK and Europe but have just spotted this Blog Post http://which-canon-camera.com/canon-700d-available-for-immediate-shipping

Hello

I'm using 5DIII+135mm at time.Trying to get new lens for walk around street photography.I came out with these combos.can anyone give me some advice？

1. Canon 35mm f/1.4 + 50mm f/1.2
2. Sigma 35mm f/1.4 + 50mm f/1.2 + Fuji x20
3. Fuji x100x(35mm) + 50mm f/1.2 + Canon 85mm f/1.8
4. Sigma or Canon 35mm + 50mm f/1.4 +Canon 85f/1.8

anyone share some experience？thanks