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Slot canyon advice

Long time lurker - first time poster:

I am planning a trip to the slot canyons and Monument Valley, Arizona this August. I have done a bit of research regarding Native American guides for Monument Valley access and the good and bad of the different slot canyons. As this is a very popular photography destination, I thought I would ask if anyone has any advice to get the most out of this trip.

My gear list: 5D Mark III, 16-35L II, 24-105L, 70-300L, 100L Macro, 50 1.4, 1.4x TC, Manfrotto Al tripod w/ Oben BC-1 ball head.

Thanks

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the rebate program... what a sham!

I have been lurking on this site for over a year now... actually since the first rumors of the new 5D Mark III surfaced a while back. I had been tracking the costs for over a year I planned to buy one when they were originally released. A series of financial setbacks and other responsibilities prevented this from occurring last year on now is my time to get one. Actually April 26th I will pull the trigger. I was excited to see this rebate program was starting and thought top myself, wow... I can save a bit of money. I had my wish list all set of a very popular NYC camera store and tracked the pricing closely. Then the rebate program comes along and everyone raises their pricing to offer a rebate which actually makes the price higher than it was before the rebate program. I have waited so long I may choice to wait longer. Seriously is anyone fooled by this marketing ploy? Raise the price than offer rebate to make the illusion of savings. Only two companies I have seen keep their pricing low. One scares me because of it's negative customer reviews online and maybe the other will get my business. It just seems so bogus.

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Lightweight lens for backpacking and bicycle touring

Does anybody have a recommendation for a good lightweight and wide angle lens for a crop frame camera (canon 7D) to use for bicycle touring and backpacking. This June I am riding 1300 miles across southern Europe, and my 24-70 is too heavy and not wide enough for the trip. I'm considering the canon 10-22, sigma 10-20, tamron 10-24, and maybe even the canon 15-85. The focal length on the 15-85 sounds incredible, but I'm a little hesitant about not being sharp enough since its often bundled as an entry level lens. Any other ideas for good lenses? I've used the 17-40, but I dont consider it wide enough or sharp enough (or at least the copy I used wasn't) and the 16-35 is out of my price range.

I'm leaning towards the Tamron 10-24, but I've read a couple bad reviews on Amazon concerning image quality.

Thanks all!

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Results: Filming 720p 60fps at super high shutter speeds

Hey there,

Long time reader, first time poster.

I recently filmed an engagement session, and wanted to utilize a shallow depth of field in bright light without an ND filter. So, knowing that I would end up slowing the footage down to 40%, I cranked up the shutter speed in order to hit around f/2. The results? Well, see for yourself:

http://acelegendary.com/blog/2013/4/9/sean-liz-save-the-date

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Trading my Canon 70-300 L for a 70-200 2.8 L ?

Hello Guys,

I've been following this website for a while but never joined the forum for some reason...

So I have a Canon 7D, I currently have a Canon 24-70 f2.8 L that I use for portraits, general photography and when I travel, a Canon 400 L that I use for birding, and my beautiful Canon 70-300 L that I use for airplane spotting, some birding and to take pictures of my kid from a distance - the 24-70 does not let me do nice blurry backgrounds if I fit more than the head + shoulders in the frame...

Because I am mostly in the range 150-250 mm for airplane spotting, I was thinking of selling the 70-300 and buying the 70-200 f2.8 mk II. I know it is an amazing lens, should work well with an extender if I need a little extra distance. I wonder if it is worth upgrading, or if it best to get the Canon 135 f2 or Sigma 85 f1.4

I figured any of those 3 choices will end up costing pretty much the same and I am not too found of prime lenses and my personal experience with Sigma is not so great (ex owner of Sigma 120-400 and Sigma 50 f1.4).

What do you think is best ?

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Long zooms

I am considering purchasing a long zoom lens for football and rodeo photos and birding. Does anyone have links to reviews comparing the Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6 L IS USM, Tamron AF 200-500mm f/5.0-6.3 Di LD SP FEC (IF) and Sigma 150-500mm f/5-6.3 AF APO DG OS HSM? Any personal opinions (like I have to ask) whether the Canon is worth the extra $500-$700? I shoot a 7D, mostly for newsprint (so everything gets halftoned down to 150 dpi).

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Canon 6D or 5D MKII - Which is Better for Video?

A brand new Canon 6D is only slightly more expensive than a used Canon 5D MK II.
With that in mind I'm wondering which camera is better for video?

I shunned buying the 5D MK III because of the soft video straight out of the camera.
(Yes I realize it can be post-sharpened, but quite often on I'm handing off my memory cards directly to the DIT and I cannot be giving them soft video).

The 6D appears to be sharper than the 5DMKIII albeit with much more moire/aliasing, but overall how does the 6D's video compare to the original 5D MK II?

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Mixing an Einstein 640/w Cyber commandeer with 600 EX RT's and ST E3 RT.

So, Just got my first Einstein and went the cyber commander route as I want to add more lights as time goes by. At the moment I also have and use 3 600 ex RT's and a st e3 RT. Will I be able to plug the Cyber commander into my PC port on camera, and have the Canon RT transmitter (Plan on using a 600 as a Hair light) attached as well and get both to fire? or do I need to buy one of the Paul C Buff receivers? I can't find reliable documentation of this working but would be super happy if it did~

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Patent: EF 400 f/4 DO IS II

HTML:
<div name="googleone_share_1" style="position:relative;z-index:5;float: right; /*margin: 70px 0 0 0;*/ top:70px; right:120px; width:0;"><g:plusone size="tall" count="1" href="http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/04/patent-ef-400-f4-do-is-ii/"></g:plusone></div><div style="float: right; margin:0 0 70px 70px;"><a href="https://twitter.com/share" class="twitter-share-button" data-count="vertical" data-url="http://www.canonrumors.com/2013/04/patent-ef-400-f4-do-is-ii/">Tweet</a></div>
<strong>Another DO patent</strong>

We haven’t seen a new DO lens in a long time, but the patents haven’t stopped. It looks like Canon is continuing the R&D, I’d love to see it go somewhere.</p>
<p><strong>Interpretation and self-description of the patent literature</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Patent Publication No. 2013-64858</li>
<li>2013.4.11 Release Date</li>
<li>Filing date 2011.9.16</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Example 1</strong></p>
<ul>
<li>Focal length f = 392.12mm</li>
<li>Fno. 4.12</li>
<li>Half angle of ω = 3.16 °</li>
<li>Image height Y = 21.64mm</li>
<li>262.14mm length lens</li>
<li>BF 69.97mm</li>
<li>Two fluorite</li>
<li>Materials and anomalous partial dispersion DOE to use, reduce the chromatic aberration</li>
<li>Refractive power of the diffractive surface</li>
<li>Strong, but can reduce the chromatic aberration of the element itself, flare increases</li>
<li>The weaker, other optical element DOE play a role</li>
<li>Refractive optical unit</li>
<li>DOE anomalous partial dispersion and bonding materials</li>
<li>DOE aspherical surface on the opposite side of the</li>
<li>Vibration control</li>
<li>Inner Focus</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Source: [<a href="http://egami.blog.so-net.ne.jp/2013-04-14" target="_blank">EG</a>] | <a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/239654-USA/Canon_7034A002_Telephoto_EF_400mm_f_4_0.html/bi/2466/kbid/3296" target="_blank">Canon EF 400 f/4 DO IS</a></strong></p>

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300 f/2.8L and 400 f/2.8 at f/2.8

I have a technical question to ask the forum. I already have some ideas on what is going on, but I don't really know for sure and wanted to ask, since many of you are so knowledgeable. In advance, thanks.

I tested my 300 f/2.8L I IS vs. my 400 f/2.8L I IS yesterday at a track meet. I felt that I had more OOF shots with my 400 and wanted to see if that was really true or not. So I set up at the end of the back straightaway, and shot runners running towards me (from curve up to about 20-30 yards away from me). I set the lenses both to f/2.8.

I shot with the 300 and the hit rate was unbelieveable. The faces were razor sharp almost everytime. My settings were 1/5000, f/2.8, auto ISO. I was in Servo mode on a 1DX.

I then shot the same settings and the hit rate was much less with the 400. A lot of the focus was missed (can see another area in focus just slightly to the right or left on another runner) or the faces were just soft and there was no real apparent focal point anywhere in the photo. However, it did hit a lot of photos, and again, those were incredibly sharp.

I did realize of course that with the 300 the runners are closer to me when I fire the shutter, vs. the 400, which could matter.

Is DOF (f/2.8 is pretty thin) more difficult to manage at longer focal lengths? Remember up until this year I had only used a 300 for sports and didn't buy the 400 until last July. Is IS more of an issue, even at 1/5000? Does the lens focus slower or not as accurately as the 300? I was thinking it's not AFMA since when I shoot golf with it I never have any OOF shots, ever. Of course they are not moving much in golf, so I'm afraid the track problem could be my bad technique with the 400.

Just thought I'd ask since of course as you can imagine, it's sort of frustrating. Thanks a lot!

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Stolen lens database?

Hey all, Is there a place where i can check if a lens is stolen (given that i can get my hands on the serial number).

There is a 400 f2.8 IS II up for sale, a little ''too cheap'' imo.

New it costs 10800 here and its being sold for 6000 (without receipt or hard case), looking to be in good condition when looking at the photos.

I tried to google about a stolen 400 f2.8 IS II but nothing shows up.

It's a bit fishy.


Thanks

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A 4000$ budget for Lenses on 5D3... need suggestions

Hello CR folks,

I recently bought a 5D3 and 50mm 1.8.This is my first investment and I am based out of India.
I mostly shoot Low Light , Landscape , Street Photography and Slow Shutter captures.

Before taking up 5D3 I had an experience of working with my colleague's Canon60D , 18-135(kits lens) ,70-200mm f4 and NikonD7000 50mm f1.4,70-200mm f4.
I had some severe limitations while shooting Landscapes and didn't get enough experience on wide-angle shots :-[
I will be travelling to Ladakh,a landscape,rich cultured,wildlife Himalayan Range in the month of July and I am looking for suggestions to get some 'real' gear.
All I can say that this will be my starting point to get into some real action ;)

I can spend up to 4000$ on the Lenses.
Please share the gear details based on your own experience.

Regards
Hari

---------------------------------------------------------------

Update :
Thanks for the suggestions Guys
I decided on getting 24-70 2.8 and 70-200 2.8

Hari

---------------------------------------------------------------

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5D MK II Error - Pink Frame

Ladies and Gentlemen!

I have a 5d MK II, bought from ye Canon refurb store, and the other day, it randomly started making frames like the one attached. When I would take the picture, it would simply capture whatever the previous image was, but with a pink cast over it. Removing the battery would help, but, then it randomly stopped doing the error. A week later, it started doing it again, for no clear reason.

Then, tonight, it started doing it again, for no clear reason! Here is an example frame. It seemed to be doing it a lot more tonight than the previous time...

Attachments

  • Error File.jpg
    Error File.jpg
    253.8 KB · Views: 1,624

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6D. Lines in shadows

Hi,

Some time ago i notices vertical lines in dark areas in my video. Then i took few more samples and now i'm sure, there is a constant problem with these lines.

Take a look at this vid:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5020311/MVI_3580.MOV
or this screenshot:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5020311/6d%20lines.png

or this vid:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5020311/MVI_4113.MOV

look at dark area...

Guys, owners of Canon 6D, can you check your cam? lock iso on 100 and take a sample in dim light, will you have these lines?

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Jammed Filter

Hi all
I unfortunately dropped a lense or of my bag today onto the floor.
Unfortunately it was a bad choice.
It was a 70-200mm is II so it was a Big Bang. The lens looks intact but the UV filter is jammed and dented.
I've tried using a washing up glove to get grip and putting it in a freezer.
It didn't budge a millimetre .
Anyone got a suggest as to what to try next
Kind Regards
Fergal

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5D mark III problem - 32gb sandisk extreme pro destroyed

I encounter a problem with my 5D mark III that destroyed one of my cards.

The problem appeared when I locked two pictures on the card and after that I erased all pictures fron the card except the locked ones. The erasing proces started and after few seconds (10-15 sec) appeared the message "the card is not recognisable". Tried different approaches: close and open camera, remove and put back the card, try to format the card on 5D mk II, try to format on MAC, PC, tray to accese it with IPAd, but the card remained not recognisable by any of the cameras, pc`s, mac`s or Ipad.

Is just broke.

Does anyone knew something about this issue?

Thanks,

Robert

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How do you prevent buttons from being accidently changed on Canon 1DX?

As a photojournalist, I tend to have 2 and sometimes 3 cameras hanging on my body (usually one wide-mid range zoom and a 70-200 on the other body) and since I am shooting and on the move constantly at most events I have had plenty of problems grabbing my 70-200 (with my 1DX) and finding that all the settings have gotten changed as it bumps against my body (I do tend to turn the top of the body towards my boy versus hanging outward as I have found that it gets beaten up more when it's facing out (i.e. the hotshoe and top facing out, versus turned inward to my body)...

So long story short, I'm getting sick of this as I have milliseconds to respond, grabbing my camera and then I get it up to my face and find I'm on ASA 10,000 and shutter speed of 1/8000....it's starting to get really annoying...

So I figured out how to set-up the multi-function lock so it will lock back dial and multifunction dials and I figured out how to disable the modes down to just manual (I NEVER shoot on anything other than manual or bulb) but the thing I can't figure out is there a way to disable the small ISO button on the top of the camera near the shutter speed dial?...between shutter speed dial (which I can lock via multi-function lock) I can't figure out if there is a way to lock/disable the ISO button? the ISO and the Shutter speed dial seem to be the things that get changed the most often...I can't seem to find anything about disabling the ISO button or locking...anyone have any ideas?

Thanks....and just to answer in advance, no I don't want to use some wierd new harness contraption that someone has come up with...maybe good and fine for shooting weddings but when you are covering protests, riots, war zones, NFL games, etc...I have not found one that would be more dangerous than useful...

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