Hi

Just got 10 eneloops (3rd gen, AA 1900mAh) with a BL700 charger, couple of questions.

1. Does it matter if i part charge them before turning off the charger, (ie travelling before fully charged)?
2. Should the batteries be removed from a flashgun if not being used for x amount of days or weeks?

Surprised my eneloops only had 20mAh in them from new.

What would you like to see added to Canon's next firmware update for the 1D X?

I would like more than 6 choices in the My Menu. Even just 2 extra would be nice as I do find the My menu quite useful.

I don't know about everyone else but a friend aka stringer sent me screenshots of videos and picture and the video is very noisy, looks terrible,

i tried the to compare my videos with photo taken at lower res as well and no matter what i did the video paused looks nice and large but the quality and noise can be compared to my ipad 3, total joke.

look at these taken by the stringer, first is a photo and then a video, totally different under the same day light and settings, he says they where taken with a 25/105mm lens, 125/f8, the video was shot at ALL-i

Hi,

I am intending to buy a new 24-70 so I was wondering if the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L II USM has a better IQ than the EF 24-70mm f/4L IS USM ? I would pair it with a 5D3.

I saw some very good reviews of the 2.8 II, but the 4 stop IS of the 4.0 sounds tempting...
I'd be glad to hear your opinions on what to buy.
Thanks in advance!

This post is a supplement to my earlier blog post on the Psychology and technique in street photography. I am an experienced street photographer shooting predominantly in India and South East Asia. I have for the last year or so moved over to a 5dmk3 as my main camera and the more I use it the more I like it.

If you are interested to see what I think of this camera, good and bad, and what other gear I use please take a look.

Thanks.
Mark.

http://www.markcareyphotography.com/2013/my-street-photography-kit/

Hi
My lense collection is getting complete exept for a supertele. I was keen on the 300 and use it with extenders. Should i get the 300, 400 or 500 ? Plan to use it for sports and wildlife. Then I got concerned about the weight, would I bring it or use my 70-200 with extenders. Right now I leaning towords 500, due to reach and lower weight then the 400.
What's your advice?

So I have the 50mm L and the first version of the 24-70mm L. If I were to sell them both on eBay, I could afford the second version of the 24-70...I just bought the 70-200 IS f/2.8 II and have been blown away with its sharpness and would love to have that kind of sharpness in the 24-70 range.

My question is: do you think it's worth giving up my 50L to pursue this, and why or why not? I love the 1.2 and I'd probably eventually buy the 85mm 1.2 down the road

What are your thoughts?!?

Thanks! : 8)

Has anybody else wished that the multi-controller would allow continuous movement from AF point to AF point when held? As it is, we have to keep thumbing it, as it stops at each AF point.

I know we can do this with the Quick Control Dial; however, being able to stop at each point or continue moving until we get to the AF point, using just one control--the multi-controller--would be a very efficient way to work.

I'm finding that I'm simply missing focus on occasions because it takes too many thumb motions to get to an AF point. As a work around, when anticipating moderate to quick action, I limit the number of AF points to choose from and also choose AF-Point Expansion, but even when configured this way, I'd love for the multi-controller to allow continuous movement from AF point to point until I release it. (I do like the wrap-around ability very much, and I keep mine set that way.)

Would this be a firmware type of modification?

I currently have the Canon S100, but I am contemplating purchasing the Sony RX100 for a better quality pocketable camera.

There are two things holding me back from making the purchase:

* The RX100 focus range is 28-100mm, and I'd prefer 24mm on the lower end.
* Canon, or a competitor, will release a better pocketable camera in 2013.

How likely is it that Canon will release a Powershot S120 with a 1" sensor, or another competitor, in 2013?

Thanks

Hello all! This may have been addressed before so forgive me, but I'm just curious to see if anyone is noticing this on their 5Dmk3's.

I understand the 5Dmk3 doesn't have the best dynamic range, but does anyone else find hotspots to be overly hot? As an example, I was camera op on a short film the other day, and both the DP and I agreed to move to the 5Dmk2 simply because some of the things (i.e. lamps, televisions) were so drastically hot and were overexposed, where on the 5Dmk2 they were near evenly lit.

Also, I was walking around the park with a friend who had a 7D, and after comparing shots the shadows were much, much harsher on the 5Dmk3 at the same exact ISO, aperture, and shutter speed as well the whites being much hotter.

Now don't get me wrong, I love my 5D and have been blown away with it at times when I'm able to control the exposure of the subject, but I'm not really understanding why everything is so blown out at times. Is this a user error, camera error, or not an error at all and just how the camera handles?

Thanks, and I appreciate any responses.

I want to know what this lovely community thinks about this matter!
I know I will be a bit disappointed, but don't get me wrong: I won't judge the camera just from its sensor. It can be a great DSLR no matter what sensor it will have..

I currently have a Canon 450D and I have been looking at going full frame by buying a used 5D Mark ii in time for a wedding in June, but as I have a low budget of around £900, I was wondering if I might be better off with a 5Dc for around £400.

I know my 450D is a newer camera with a DIGIC III processor and the 5Dc has a DIGIC II processor, but would going back to an older processor matter? Other disadvantages of the 5dc is a small screen, no sensor cleaning and well I think it’s just those three things. With the 5Dc being full frame the ISO and image quality will be much better than the 450D, am I right?

Is there a big difference in image quality between the 5Dc and 5D MKII?

I do understand that the 5DMark ii is again better than the 5Dc, but I am trying to save money. I am basically asking is going from the 450D to a 5Dc a good option?

Thanks

Need some advice:

For an trip around the globe, I bought an new 5DIII this week. But the images are very softvand not sharp. IQ of the 5DIIIs of other members of our local photo club are visibly better. I used wide angle lenses. 16-35 2.8 and the 12-24mm Tokina.
Is there an possibility to imptove IQ by sending it to Canon, or should I give it back and get the money refunded?
This is the second time, I have this problme in the last 3 years....

Or should I buy an D600 with an wideangle eg... lens?

As some of you may know, Canon sells refurbished gear at attractive prices. Coming form Canon, these items are usually as functional as new.

When they put a sale on top of a refurb price, the good lenses disappear immediately.

Some of the prices summarized: http://www.the-digital-picture.com/News/News-Post.aspx?News=4467

Actual store link for lenses: http://shop.usa.canon.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductListingViewAll_10051_10051_-1_22751?WT.mc_id=C126149

Of note, some ultra-rare (to the refurb store) L lenses are still in stock, including the 100L Macro for $713 and the 35L for $1005. Both are stellar deals.

- A

So I just shot a wedding last night. I got to try out the Sigma 35 1.4 and a 5D Mark iii. Great lens BTW. We were all setup for the exiting shot with sparklers. Right as they came out the doors my card reads full. Luckily my wife got the shot but is it just me or does anybody else find it frustrating there's no warning when you're running low on card space? I come from the video world and pretty much every camera I've ever shot with has had a warning message when you get to around a couple minutes of space left on the tape/card. It seems like such a simple thing and especially with the 5D mark iii now having a section for warning messages, this seems like an obvious thing to put in there. I took a look at magic lantern again today but didn't see anything like this in there. It'd be great if at least it supported it. Before somebody says it, I do realize that the 5D mark iii has 2 slots and that I could of selected the option to have it start recording to the other card but being that it was a wedding, I decided to have it record JPGs in case there was an issue with one of the cards I was recording on. I had extra cards in my pocket but in moments like that you don't have time to switch cards. Sigh... live and you learn I guess. Just frustrating that a $3000 camera can't give a simple warning for something so important as card space.

Sigma's first shot with the new A, S, and C lenses has been widely acclaimed as being as good or frankly better than the Big manufacturers' equivalent offerings. It was an Art lens in their new terms. What will the next "letter lens" be?

I wonder how good their first Sport lens will be, and what it will be. They could really score a hit with a high quality 300 or 400 lens at f/2.8 if it were top quality and priced lower than the big boys. Maybe it is safer to stick with making really good primes for the first several releases and not trying to compete in zooms right away.

Hi,
just bought an excellent 16-35 F/2.8 L USM II second hand and tested it at insane ISOs yesterday...
My youngest son liked it...After a few tests in the past six month I guess, if you wanna get a decent b/w, 51k for the 5D3 is the limit with a light source like this. But I am more than happy, to be able to push things that far. Everything done in DPP, NR at about 14/18.

Z96A3565bBWKLEINALT by Peter Hauri, on Flickr
ISO 51200

Z96A3556bBWKLEIN by Peter Hauri, on Flickr
ISO 102400

I have tried auto ISO but have yet to get the hang of it. Is there a good tutorial on it?

Ideally I would like to set a minimum shutterspeed, aperature and maximum ISO. If the exposure could not happen, then I would like to specify which would be sacrificed. Gets complicated very quickly.

So, happily shooting today (bridal/boudoir), 5d3, lr4, about 16 gb in camera/lr4 locks up. Rebooted everyting 5d3/lr4 still won't talk. Pulled out 7 d, and all is good to go. Keep threatening to sell the 7d, but it keeps saving me. Any input?

I'm currently shooting a 60d with a 100-400L lens. For the most part I shoot wildlife, bird in flight. I've decided to get a 1.4 extender for more reach and a second body as well. Currently deciding between a 1d mark 2N, 1d mark 3, or 1Ds mark 2. Trying to stay in the $600-$1,000 dollar range.

I'm leaning towards the 1Ds mark 2 since its full frame and has more megapixles. I can deal with the 4 fps vs 8.5-10fps since I don't like to spray and pray when I'm out shooting.

The reason I'm looking at 1d series bodies versues the 7d is the 45-point AF system. Also they will focus at F8 with one focus point.

My question is how is the focusing on a 1d series body with the 1.4 extender which makes this lens an F8? Is it on par with what I'm shooting now(60d) or is it dramtically slower? I'm shooting AI Servo using one focus point(center).

3 bodies, 6 lenses, 2 leather rolling camera bags in just over 12 months- is there any help out there? Already plotting my next body and lens purchases....

Title says it all. I bought the 7D thinking the small features that makes it better than the 6D (fps, shutter speed, button layout) would make a big difference to me, but it hasn't at all. I shoot cars and I've been needing full frame more than ever, especially because of always needing a good prime lens thats reasonably wide. Aslo, after some long thinking and extensive testing in the field, shooting a static object never occurred to me that I'll NEVER need all 19 cross-type points. I'd like some opinions from anyone on here who actually has the 6D. Thanks

Maybe I'm on crack, but I thought people have successfully used the Odins to high-speed sync monolights? I tried HSS with the Alien Bees today but no workie Am I doing something wrong?

The way I understand it, in HSS mode the Odins are supposed to trigger the monolights to fire right before the shutter opens. All I got was a black exposure.

I have the privilege of having the problem of having to choose between a MarkII or MarkIII for a studio workshop.
I know the differences between the 2 will be minimal, but I'm curious which one y'all would pick for a studio lit, low ISO photoshoot. People on here say that AA filter on the MkIII is stronger than the MkII which leads me to think the MkII would be a better choice; but then I'm sacrificing the AF of the MkIII which to my understanding has a "finer" focus than the 5D MarkII which might come in handy if I'm going to do any shallow DOF pictures (with a ND filter since the studio light is going to be too bright for apertures that large). Thanks for the help!